I have an old model 82 Taurus pistol in .38 caliber...is it a good gun?
547772
yes \nit is good one/almost all [38];s are good and reliable.\n when was the last time you shot it? did you zero it in?.\n     if so you have a good weapon and if i were you i would keep it.
904007
Bound's hubby here:\n\nI believe you are actually asking about the Colt .38 Super ... not a .380 ACP. In many respects, the .38 Super is one of the major reasons that D.B. Wesson developed the .357 Magnum!\n\nIn the evolution of Colt's Government Model (O Frame) Automatic, it was actually chambered first in the .38 ACP round, and followed by the .45 ACP. In the 1920s, the .38 ACP got a kick in the pants ... basically becoming the .38 Super ... a +P load for the .38 ACP. While the .38 ACP can be fired in a .38 Super, the .38 SUper can not be safely fired in a .38 ACP Government Model. \n\nThe reputation of the .38 ACP was such, that it was piercing not only can bodies, but it was alledged to be a thorn in the side of Law Enforcement because it was claimed to be able to penetrate engine blocks. Hence, the Law Enforcement demand for what would become the .357 Magnum in 1935. \n\nAs was said by one of the preceding respondents, the .38 Super lies somewhere between the 9mm Luger and the .357 Magnum, but nudging closer to the .357 in energy. Think of the .38 Super as the prototype to the .357 Magnum in a semi-auto pistol!\n\nBy the way, it is a very popular round south of the border, where firearms in military calibers are prohibited from ownership by civilians!\n\nGood luck!
916955
I've had the Taurus pt111 millenium for several years... mine is chambered in 9mm... personnally, I love it...I've put many rounds through it.  I've used everythingfrom traditional fmj to +p+ hollow points and never a feed problem.  since it is made with a stainless receiver, the higher presures from +p ammunition is not a problem... and is what I keep in it when I carry it. the trigger is a little heavy, but not like a city police service weapon.   it is my choice for concealed carry...  for defense purposes, the .40 is a much better caliber... it has the stopping power of a .45 but gives you the lighter recoil like a 9mm... also the higher magazine capacity like a 9mm.  for the money, it is an excellent choice.
804967
You haven't given much info here so I'm going to assume it is a Standard grade Model 12,.... 28 or 30 in. full choke barrel, no vented rib. This was the most common configuration.  Your serial # would indicate 1959 as the production year. \n\nThe term "excellent condition" doesn't mean a lot unless you are familiar with grading guns. My experience is that when the average person says a gun is in excellent condition it could mean anywhere from 80% to 98% condition, usually closer to 80 than to 98.\n\n80% condition...........$275\n90% .........................$325\n95% .........................$350\n98% .........................$500\n\nModel 12's are very collectible and if your gun is configured differently than what I've described, it could be much more valuable.
618461
my favorite in a handgun has to be a ruger vaquero 44 mag now i also like a colt commander in .45 acp. in rifles i buy cheap but what is cheap?im not going to purchase a kimber nor a weatherby. to much cash for a gret rifle and if it has that great looking barrel etching and the stock engraving why bother?i would probably be looking for anything that would scratch the rifle and harm the wood instead of hunting.i buy remington with the carbolite stock i have a few in the 700bdl and i dont have to be worried about marring the finish or scrstching the stock.a new custom stock for a 700BDL in the .300 magnum is roughly 359.00 but you add s/h to it will be over 400 bucks.this is a price from cabelas
516758
youre not gonna find many pumps out there.  most of the time you will find a good semi-auto for around 100 to 200 dollars.  i personally have a tippmann 98 custom qhich is like a recreational god becuase its so cheap, durable, and you can upgrade it to your style of play.  to start off the gun costs between 150 and 170 dollars, depending on where you get it.  second you can bang it up dunk it under water, and possibly run a car over it and it will still work like new.  as far as the upgrades, you can turn it into a gun that can compete with those freaking expensive guns for around 300 to 400 dollars including the kit price even though it is tournament legal out of the box.  i put on a collapsible stock and a flatline barrel which increased my accuracy and range 10 fold.  when i finished with it i will have a nitrogen tank (it can run on nitrogen without mods) a cyclone hopper or a halo b hopper, an electronic trigger, and a remote line or drop forward.  the tippmann 98 custom is the only gun i have ever needed because of that.  oh and one more thing.  you can field strip it and fix it in the field meaning you can take the gun apart and fix any problems while in the game.  hope you find this helpful.  have e great time playing
947144
Colt 1911 is my favorite because the designs is so good its been virtually unchanged for 95 years. Its one of the most reliable guns ever. It has excellent stopping power. always gets the job done and is just fun as hell to shoot
109009
i have 2 ruger 10/22s a remington 597 and a marlin model60. I agree you can deck out the 10/22 to look pretty sweet but anything over 10 round mags fail often and jamb frequently, acurracy is also an issue, the 597 is a nice rifle for the money but remington hasnt improved the magazine flaws yet thusly the jamb also the marlin model 60 BY FAR the most popular 22 LR in the world...more of them sold than any other very accurate I have owned mine for over 12 years and not once has it failed
831749
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThere's alot of advice here. I will add my two cents. I think your .357 will be adequate provided you have the right ammunition. The shortest barrel I would go with would be a 6 inch barrel (my preferred home defense gun is a 6 inch K38 with Hydra-shocks... it's not too long because no intruder is going to get close enough to grab it!). A .357 has it's limitations... I would keep my maximum distance to the distance at which I can keep 6 shots on a 6 inch paper pie plate. \n\nYour ammuntion: if you limiit yourself to factory soft points and jacketed hollow points... get a .44 Magnum. Your hunting round should be of a semi-wadcutter design. The flat part of the semi-wadcutter is called a metplat... the larger the metplat, the more shock you induce which is good for dropping the animal. You want the shoulders to be as sharp as possible. Your .357 with this type of bullet should be more than adequate for deer to 40 or 50 yards, and perhaps, smaller black bear. \n\nWhile I own a couple of .357s, I bought a Smith .41 Magnum for hunting. The .41 has greater muzzle energy than the .357, with less recoil than the .44. When you compare a .41 and a .44 the difference in wound cavity size is 0.019 inches in diameter. In many respects, from this angle, the .41 is a better hunting round than the .44. Therefore, I would suggest you give the .41 serious consideration as a hunting round. I have also assembled a handload I call a ".41 Special" that I found in the RCBS cast bullet handloading booklet that shoots like a .38 Special. That big revolver with a nice big hole in it, can be real intimidating if you're looking at it from the wrong end. \n\nIf you plan on handgun hunting give serious consideration to casting your own bullets and handloading your hunting ammunition. \n\nI would suggest you look at either an L-framed S&W .357 or an N-framed S&W .357 or .41. The new Smith L and N frames are factory drilled and tapped for scope mounts. Because you stated home defense, in addition to hunting I have not recommended Ruger's single action Blackhawks... only because (by design) they can not be reloaded quickly like a swing out cylinder revolver. \n\nGood luck.
1148701
I used a customized Browning Hi-Power for years, and it was as accurate as any .22 target pistol. Stock Brownings also tend to be more accurate in actual use, because they are single-action autoloaders. Among double-action 9mm pistols, I prefer the SIG-Sauer P226. The Beretta is too big and clumsy, and the Glock has that atrocious trigger pull. I'll add that you should consider a .45 caliber pistol; either the Kimber Pro Carry single-action or the SIG P220 double-action.
713877
Any other markings on it?\nI just looked in, "The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Handguns, Pistols & Revolvers of the World 1870 to the Present" and found no such critter.\nGermany made tons and tons of .25 caliber pistols prior to its defeat and split in 1945. Just because it says it's made in Germany doesn't mean it's "worth a lot."\nSmall pocket pistols made in Germany, prior to 1945, are still quite prevalent. Most of the time they don't fetch much money, say $100 or less.\nQuality on many of these pocket pistols was not good. Exceptions are pistols made by Walther, Sauer, Mauser and DWM. These tend to be very well made.\nCan you describe the pistol better?\nIs it a semi-auto pistol or a revolver (the kind that has a cylinder)?\nOddly enough, Europeans also made revolvers in .25 Auto caliber, so to say it's .25 caliber doesn't necessarily restrict it to a semi-auto handgun.\nHow do you know it's .25 caliber, by the way? If it's truly made in Germany and of .25 caliber it should actually be marked 6.35mm instead of .25 ACP.\nThe cartridges are the same but the Europeans have long used the Metric system when designating cartridges.\nProvide all the markings on that handgun and perhaps I can find it. I could find nothing about Cheyenne, Wyoming or Indian Works.\nIt's not unusual to have European handguns named after the American West. The Europeans have long been thrilled with the West, so their gun makers often gave their guns Old West names to appeal to European buyers.\nThe Europeans are still nuts about the Old West. They even have Cowboy Action Shooting clubs in Germany, France and Belgium today.
630296
being a .38 maybe 200 if its needed by some1 and in excellent shape
241638
If you have no idea how it functions, I recommend you do not do this yourself.\n\nYou can take the 22 to a ammo store, or large sports store, and they will assist you in either cleaning it for you or showing you how to safely operate this handgun.\n\nBe aware, you may not transport this handgun without the proper registration.
223682
A good all around gun moderately priced in  a tipmann 98 custom.  You can pick up a kit that was the gun, mask and hopper for like $160 bucks at Walmart
29311
definatly, I think you will be a lot better off with a gun that you know and trust, and in my opinion I would trust the model  70 over any other gun out there, the most important thing is shot placement. If you can hit the vitals a .270 will do the job just fine.
1173031
You have not really given enough info to answer.  What is its condition.   One way for you to find out is to go to library and look in the Blue Book Of Gun Values.
763517
Bound's hubby here:\n\nIn the '70s and '80s it was common to have custom rebarreling of Smith & Wesson revolvers for non-factory offerings. If it is indeed chambered for .44 Special and a five shot cylinder it should be safe to shoot... after all you're looking at about a 20 year old revolver that I doubt someone would have built and not try to shoot it. If you keep your .44 Special loads at SAAMI specifications you should have no problem using this revolver. \n\nIf you can not contact the indentified manufacturer directly, you can do one of two things:\na) you can contact the Washington State Police at their headquaters to find out who recieved the manufacturer's license under the name "SPOKHANDGUNS, INC",\nb) you can contact the NRA's "Dope Bag" with your question about the handgun and the will get back to you.\n\nGood luck.