Polishing oxidized chrome?
553406
Many types of chrome polish on the market....\n\nI've used shaving cream and done well with it on exhaust pipes... but Chrome Polish is your best bet
982061
This is the major topic of research for many commercial companies which prepare Oven and Grill cleaning products.\n\nThe carbon itself is bound to the metal with denatured (carbonized) fat or oil molecules.  These are generally effected only by very strong bases such as Sodium hydroxide (lye) which will react with aluminum and cause discoloration and chemical pitting.\n\nMechanical removal using sharp blades or soft metal bristle brushes will work, but requires much labor.  Steel wool is also used, but removes some of the metal from the surface of the pans.  Special electrical devices have been used with success, but tend to slowly wear away the top layer of aluminum.\n\nProfessional cooks ignore the problem by replacing aluminum with stainless steel pans.  Home and do-it your-selfers tend to allow the buildup until everything sticks and then replace the pans.\n\nThere has been a few who have "seasoned" their aluminum pans in a fashion similar to cast iron with mixed results.\n\nIf this is for pizza pans for your restaurant, I suggest soaking the pans overnight in a strong solution of Dawn Dish-washing Liquid and then taking the pans to a "steam" car wash to remove the detergent.
235505
Unfortunately if the leather has cracked it is near impossible to restore.  Rain and excess moisture and then heat from the sun will ruin any leather jacket.\n\nThe best care remedy is to use leather oil and stain to coat the leather jacket again.  It won't make it look new, but it will improves it.  Find a shoe polish tint that matches the jacket (or now they might even have special leather jacket stains).  Then rub in an oil like the one they use for baseball gloves.  Let is air dry in a shady area.  When finished use a damp rag to wash off excess stain and oil. Then re oil again.  After the 2nd coating the jacket should be in better condition.
178136
First try nail polish remover.  If not try comet.
469446
try acetone nail polish remover... \nsee if that wks\nif not ur S.O.L.
672621
Try white vinegar...it cleans just bout anything failing that you can buy mega cheap silver cleaner from any shop.
423293
Use C-cleaner will take care of a lot of manual tasks.\nhttp://www.ccleaner.com/ccdownload.asp
275531
There are two ways. One is to "Flame" polish. A propane plumbers torch or a small hand held butane torch will work. It takes a bit of practice, and if you dont move along the edge fast enough you can catch it on fire or melt it. Stay at the tip of the flame.\n The other way is to wet sand with silacon carbid sand paper, start with 100 grit about 10 strokes, then 320 grit 10 strokes then 600 grit 15 strokes, keep flushing your sand paper in water and keep the edge of the acrylic wet.\n Then put a cotton buff wheel in a drill, put some white buffing rouge onto the buffing wheel(while its turning) then buff the edge making lite level strokes across it, about four or five times, you dont want to heat it while buffing so dont lay into it, and wait in between strokes to let the heat diapate.  Last step is a clean new buff to take the grease of the rouge off and bring it to a super clear luster shine.  If you heat it to much when buffing it gets a white mare, if so you will need to resand and buff.\n In lou of a drill a place called caswell sells a nice 1100 speed standing buffer for about $150.
28203
You should occasionally give it a light cleaning and then condition the surface. Its the imbeded soil and body oil that left unchecked will eventually eat into the finish. Again a light cleaning once a month followed by a good conditioner and you will increase the life of the leather. here are a few great products. No Bull leather cleaner, Coach leather cleaner. Both have conditioners as well
618334
If it is a wooden bat sand and refinish it.\nAluminum have it professionally polished
531387
FLITZ LIQUID WAX PROTECTANT\nFLITZ LIQUID METAL POLISH\nFLITZ PASTE METAL POLISH & PAINT RESTORER\nSIMICHROME POLISH \nhttp://www.golfworks.com/search.asp?t=c&showall=1&pc=4&c=30
1098941
this might sound a bit silly but tooth paste, use a small amount around the area just a tiny bit and use your finger or damp cloth from the centre push outwards, or there is cd repair kits that uses different chemicals.
152709
To keep the surface smooth and scratch free it is not usually recommended to use bleach or abrasives.  All cleaning recommendations I've seen suggest the mildest cleaning solution possible.  Baking soda, vinegar, ammonia, and hand (not automatic) dishwashing liquid seem to be the cleaners of choice.\n\nI haven't seen any inforamtion on the effects of using bleach, just that it is not recommended.\n\nI hope this helps.
964838
The best way to do this, unless you are experienced with refinishing, is to take the bike COMPLETELY apart... all the parts, drive out all the bearing cups, everything that isn't painted to begin with, then have the frame sandblasted (or blasted with walnut shell if it is aluminum) and take it to an auto body shop. Once the frame is blasted it MUST be primered almost immediately or it will start to rust in hours. Someone at the shop will likely paint it for you pretty cheap. \n\nIf you want to try it yourself with spray cans, do this:\nFirst, you shouldn't use ENAMEL unless you have it professionally applied and baked on. Spray cans are formulated to be used in a wide range of temperatures and humidities so they never dry "just right". Even if you got fancy with some tin foil and spotlights you would probably only end up with an even softer finish.\n\nHere is a quick (sort of) process to follow:\n\n1) After completely disassembling the bike have it sandblasted to remove ALL the finish.\n2) Spray it as soon as possible with grey sandable lacquer primer. Duplicolor paint is all lacquer, I think, and you can get it from your local autoparts store. Buy the BIG cans, not the small ones. Apply at least 3 coats, 1/2 hour apart. Don't worry about light runs for now.\n3) Wait at least 48 hours. Sand the primer using 220 grit aluminum oxide paper (white in color) until the surface is smooth. It shouldn't take much unless you have a lot of runs.\n4) Using a tack rag, lightly go over the entire frame (don't rub!) to remove the sanding dust.\n5) Apply several light coats (6 or 7 perhaps) of the color of your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Again, use LACQUER, the same brand that you used for primer. Apply coats 1/2 hour apart. Be sure you cover every part and do NOT get runs. If you get runs you are applying it too heavily.\n6) Apply the LACQUER clear cost, perhaps 6 coats.\n7) Let the frame alone until you can't smell the paint anymore when you get up close and take a big whiff. If you can smell it, it ain't dry! This will take 2 to 3 days at least.\n8) Using white paste polishing compound, follow the directions and polish out the whole frame.\n9) Do NOT wax or wash for at least 10 days.\n\nIf you rush this you will end up with a sloppy mess and you'll kick yourself for ever trying. However, if you take your time and do it right it'll be a very cool feeling.
226068
Doesn't sound promising. However I know lighter fluid has been useful to me in removing glue off electic appliances without damage. Something learned from our parents when we were kids. You could try that, do it in a shaded area away from the sun and wash off immediately with clear water after, then polish. Good luck
1187122
ferric oxide, or rust, is the product
631807
You can buy a disc scratch polisher/cleaner system. If the burns aren't too deep, it will polish them off along with scratches.