how do i cut steel with oxy-accetelyne gas?
542105
You should have a cutting tip (this has one larger hole surrounded by smaller holes). Cutting tips also come in different sizes like the normal tips, so first you have to figure out if you have a cutting tip and which size it is. The size should be written on your tip. And the size of your tip will determine which metal thickness you can cut. I put a link to some website which lists the psi, though I don't know how general this is (I wouldn't go up to 15 with the acetylene, stay safely below that, but then I wouldn't try to cut a 6 inch thick steel plate with a gas torch anyway). You can look around if you find other tables, preferable ones which are for your cutting tip.
404143
go to your blacksmiths ( i recommen WH Blacksmiths) don't forget to take about a ton of iron ore with you this can be found in Mordor or just that massive mountain by your house boy, after you have mined there and taken the ore in a wheelbarrow to the blacksmiths (or public forge) smelt the iron in the forge until it becomes soft and creamy, use a small tea spoon and if it melts in the ore then its ready. Pour the contents onto a bracket of somesort (please search on yahoo for the proper name) and pour cold water over the mould to cool the ore and create a chemical reaction. Get a big hammer and whack the sword and shield in to shape, hammer it in the morning and hammer in the evening just hammer all over the "stuff". Once you have zen. You can now sharpen the sword on a wheel and one of those foot pedals that make the wheel spin, lots of sparks will fly off, so wear protective goggles and ask an adult to help you. Tie a piece of string to the shield as a handle (at this point you will probably be on the school bus trying to get everything perfect and finished so this will save time). Sorry I cannot help you make a flail, try Walmart. Hope this helped , I made a shield and sword for my sons "Narnia" playset.
275531
There are two ways. One is to "Flame" polish. A propane plumbers torch or a small hand held butane torch will work. It takes a bit of practice, and if you dont move along the edge fast enough you can catch it on fire or melt it. Stay at the tip of the flame.\n The other way is to wet sand with silacon carbid sand paper, start with 100 grit about 10 strokes, then 320 grit 10 strokes then 600 grit 15 strokes, keep flushing your sand paper in water and keep the edge of the acrylic wet.\n Then put a cotton buff wheel in a drill, put some white buffing rouge onto the buffing wheel(while its turning) then buff the edge making lite level strokes across it, about four or five times, you dont want to heat it while buffing so dont lay into it, and wait in between strokes to let the heat diapate.  Last step is a clean new buff to take the grease of the rouge off and bring it to a super clear luster shine.  If you heat it to much when buffing it gets a white mare, if so you will need to resand and buff.\n In lou of a drill a place called caswell sells a nice 1100 speed standing buffer for about $150.
135416
Steel = 12 x 10-6/oC = 6.5 x 10-6/oF\n\nSee the site (the formula does not type through correctly)
1168651
Use a MiG welder with gas as your flux and make sure to use stainless steel wire without the flux core"meaning some wire comes preloaded with flux chemicals in the middle of the wire". The gas is really not a flux, but it acts in the same way a flux would, just without all of the slag. The gas is there to simply keep impure air particles away from the welding site. Also remember to wire brush the welding area before actual welding begins. The MiG produces little or no slag whatsoever when used correctly. But to make sure your tubing is sanitized completely, pour a sanitizing solution through the tubing after you complete the welding process.
33498
Are you talking about steel? If so, each one has his own set of possible problems. Most of it depends on chemistry and what the end use is going to be. Take a look at ASTM and API specifications. You might find your answer there. A metallurgist can answer your question.
377981
While i agree with droptoptommy. there are places that already have pressure splitters that might be willing to cut it for you.. sometimes for free if they arnt  busy and its no trouble.\n\nOther then that, the circular saw is about the best bet, as it cuts the straightest line and removes the least amount of material from the stone.
867963
use an acetylene torch aluminum rod & flux.
1181168
As a tip on cutting tools for hard metals.
885932
just mix petrolium and flour together in a bottle - make it thick into a sauce\n\nthat is instant NAPALM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1013656
Cut up some steel into small piecies.\nWeight out a set amoult of the steel, say 1 g.\nAdd a set amoult of the HCl acid and stir untill the steel dissiloves.\nNow do a titiration using a base of set molarity.\n\nNow the maths part\nZn + 2HCl -> ZnCl + 2HX\nX is a countion\nSo for one mole of Zn in the solution will react with 2 moles of HCl\nSo using the amoult of HCl and the molarity you can work out the number of moles of HCl you have in your solution.\nLets call this A\n\nHow for the tiratation\n\nHCl + NaOH -. NaCl + H2O\n\nSo one mole of NaOH reacts with one mole of NaOH\nWork out the number of moles of HCl left in the zinc solution\nBy using the volume of NaOH and the morality of it.\nCall his B\n\nNow the number of Moles of HCl the Zn has reacted with is\nA - B\n\nCall this C\n\nAs Zn reacts with 2 moles of HCl there are\nC/2 moles of Zn in the solution.\nCall this D\n\nFrom where you can work out the number of atoms in the zinc By using D x arggavios contant (sp) to give you the number of\natoms in your sample.\n\nNow share the number of atoms in your sample by the weight you using in forming your sample will give you the atoms per gram.\nNow times this final number by the weight of the starting piece of steel and you have your number of atoms.
415657
Oxy Clean...can be found at your local wal-mart and other stores like it.
860502
Surgical Steel - With an air cooled system, and at those high RPMs the pistons have to be able to handle a lot of heat and pressure. Aluminum wouldn't cut it, and standard-grade steel wouldn't either.
181200
cut it off with a hacksaw.  \n\nyou might have to take it to a welder to reattach it.
412358
You could skip the Nitrogen Oxide and use Nitrous Oxide.   :o)
1184576
gently heat the nib end  with a lighter or match  that should do the trick
479990
I've always just used lots of hot soapy water (dawn dishwashing liquid). Of course, you have to get it really dry afterwards. I also drilled out my nipple to 1/16th inch. and I always use a pipe cleaner to clean out the tunnel from the nipple to the inside firing chamber. I'm not sure what you would need to do if you had a flintlock. I've never had one of those. Mine is a T/C .50 cal Hawkins. I've never had a misfire with it.