How to and how much to adjust the sight on my Springfield armory 1911-a1 pistol?
541644
It's very typical to think the sites are off when you're grouping off center. With a 1911, it's very easy to push or pull the trigger, or anticipate the recoil. I would practice engaging the trigger with the center of the pad, pulling strait to the rear. Every discharge should be a surprise to you and you should keep the front sight post clearly in focus--crystal clear--always. You should also see, in your peripheral vision, the same amount of light on both sides of the front sight post.  and the top of the post should be flush with the top of rear sight box. If you are aware of all these indicators, and you are still grouping off center, then I would have a qualified gunsmith check the sights on a bench.  A qualified gunsmith will have the equipment to adjust accordingly. He or she may also be able to install an adjustable rear sight for a couple of bills.  good luck to ya. -r.
265107
go talk to you local gun shop/repair shop. (not the pawn shops)\nand/or talk to a competition shooter.
575944
line up the front sight in the middle of the rear sight.  the 3 dots should be in a line.  next, on my glock, i put the top horizontal part of the front sight where i want the point of impact.
609946
Do you have a firearms dealer in your city?  If so take it there and they'll be able to tell you how to fix it.  Or better still, take it to a gunsmith.
490217
go to gunpartscorp.com.com (numrich arms), and to make things simple order the catalog. you can find your gun and the parts that you need.\nif it is a m98 turkish mauser,(large ring)replace the barrel with a 45-70govt. barrel. with some modifications it makes an excellent shooter.
677401
BB guns are very accurate if you get one over 50 dollars and scopes are numerous for every brand of bb gun. most are easy to install just unscrew the bolts and put it on the rails on the top of the rifle and screw it back on. to use it fire 3-5 shots at a target. to adjust it remember that the top knob is for elevation and the side one is for left and right. Alot of scopes vary on which direction you twist the knob (clock wise or counter clockwise). Just adjust the group one "click" at a time until you are zeroed in (shooting the bullseye)
270914
is any part of the forearm touching the barrel?  \n\nwhen you are shooting it, are you in the standing position or do you shoot from a table with a rest?  if you shoot from a rest, make sure the barrel isn't touching anything.  if the barrel is resting on something, accuracy goes out the window.  \n\ntry a box of federals or winchesters.\n\nif it still isn't shooting tight, borrow someone elses scope and see what kind of group you can get at 80 yds.  you don't have to sight it in, just see what kind of group you get.  if it's tighter, the problem is in your scope.
947718
It's a Muzzle Brake, like in a car brake. \n\nYou can probably find a clamp-on one that will fit your barrel from Brownell's or Midway for $20 to $30 with uncertain results. \n\nA custom one can set you back $200 to $300 from a smith that knows what he's doing.\n\nI gotta ask, why do you feel you need one?
819475
Bound's hubby here:\n\nCongratulations, you have a US Rifle Model 1917 Enfield, known as a P17, manufactured in Eddystone, Pennsylvania. The 1917 was manufactured in .30-06. \n\nPrior to US entry into World War I, the Eddystone plant was manufacturing the Model 1914 Enfield (a.k.a.: P14) chambered in .303 for the British. This is where Cabhammer is in error. When the U.S. entered the war, U.S. war needs surpassed the commercial ventures to supply Great Britain. As the US was entering WWI, as Cabhammer correctly stated, the US had an insufficient supply of M1903 rifles, manufactured by either Springfield or Rock Island, hence the modification of the P14 to be chambered in .30-06, which made it the P17 (for Pattern 17). \n\nThe 1917 Enfield differs substantially from the M1903 Springfield:\nFirst, the 1917 is bulkier and heavier.\nSecond, the 1917 had a rear sight mounted on the receiver bridge, not forward of the receiver ring.\nThird, the 1917 was a bit more difficult to fire rapidly, because the action cocked on opening, not closing like the Springfield, hence the Springfield is perceived to have a smoother action.\n\nThe Civilian Marksmanship Program had been selling its limited supply of 1917 Enfields for either $350 or $450 (I forget which), and recently sold out. The CMP does not anticipate receiving any other 1917s for resale. The same has happened with the M1903 Springfield, which sold for $450, and sold out this past August. While at Cabelas in Hamburg, Pa. 2 weeks ago, they had a "high serial numbered" Rock Island M1903 selling for $850. I think you could expect your 1917 to have a similar value, for someone wanting a 1917! (Note: Parts for the M1917 have not been as readily available as they have been for the M1903, so appearance and condition may not be as good as you will find on the Springfield's.)
825983
There are a few models with that description made during that time. Can you give a model number? That would make pricing a lot easier and give you a better idea of the value of your gun.\n Swing the cylinder open and the model number should be stamped on the frame just above the pivot for the cylinder.\n Is it a blued or stainless gun, fixed or adjustable sights? That will change the value also.\n \nMODEL 10 M & P  \n- .38 Spl. +P cal., 6 shot, K-frame, round or square butt (4 in. barrel only starting 1992), fixed sights, 2 (disc. 1996), 3 (disc.), 4 (standard - disc. or heavy), 5 (disc.), or 6 (disc.) in. barrels, current mfg. utilizes Uncle Mike's combat grips, 36 oz.  \n\n\n     100%     98%     95%    90%     80%     70%     60% \n    $420      $285     $215  $165     $130     $115    $100 \n \nAdd $12 for nickel finish (disc. 1991, 4 in. barrel only).  \nThe Model 10 is currently available in 4 in. heavy barrel only (a 4 in. heavy barrel nickel square butt variation was disc. in 1992).\nTo date, there have been 14 engineering changes in this model.
741754
First off, honey, if your B/F needs to pack around two 1911's, he may have a *ahem* small problem. Nevertheless, the "dual back" holster featured in face off was actually a right and left handed holster(s). (more than one holster). imagine if you will, placing both holsters on in a cross draw fashion (the bottom of the magazine faces the same direction as you) and then sliding both holsters to the small of the back. \n\nBefore you go buying up those two holsters, be sure you know the make, model, and length of his firearms, because holsters (esspecially higher end ones) are not universal "gun buckets" rather they are crafted to specific firearms. \n\nThe link I provided will set you into the Galco website on the page for a 5" Kimber 1911. You may want to go to the main page and enter in the model information to your b/f's specific weapon.
956133
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, be advised, several of the answers you have received do not take into consideration the courses of fire in NRA high power rifle competitions. \n\nNRA High Power course of fire (all fired with  iron sights only):\n200 yards - Standing - 10 or 20 shots - 1 minute per shot\n200 yards - Standing to sitting rapid fire - 1 or 2 "10 Shot strings (2+8 [required reload])" - 60 seconds per string\n300 yards - Standing to prone rapid fire - 1 or 2 "10 shot strings (2+8 [required reload])" - 70 seconds per string\n600 yards - Prone - 20 shots - 1 minute per shot\n\nNRA Long Range Rifle\nPalma Match (Iron Sights only!)\n800 yards - Prone - 15 shots - 1 minute per shot\n900 yards - Prone - 15 shots - 1 minute per shot\n1000 yards - Prone 15 shots - 1.5 minutes per shot\n\n1000 yard Match (Iron Sight and Any Sight)\n1000 yards - Prone  (Iron Sight) - 20 shots - 1.5 minutes per shot\n1000 yards - Prone (Any Sights) - 20 shots - 1.5 minutes per shot\n[Note: Service rifles are not permitted to shoot scopes!]\n\nThe key factor to be considered, is that if you want to use the same rifle for short range and long range, you must be able to do a rapid fire reload ... Service Rifles fire 2 rounds with an 8 round reload... Match Rifles fire 5 rounds with a 5 round reload. Service rifles can handle this easily without modifications. Match rifles (read as Bolt Action rifles, need a stripper clip guide). Also, the Service Rifle category requires use of "CURRENT" US issue rifles, which include the: M1 Garand, M14 (or civilian M1A), or the M16 (or civilian equivalent AR15, etc.) ... foreign service rifles are NOT permitted! Current affordable rifles do not come with stripper clip guides cut in the receiver, like the old '03 Springfields. This is an expensive addition ... probably cheaper for an entry shooter to get an old '03A3 Springfield if they want to shoot match rifle, or go with a Service Rifle. Match sights are also an expensive proposition.\n\nAlso, ARs are great entry rifles for competition, but they leave alot to be desired at the 1000 yard line. To have full control of a .223 at 1000 yards, your handloads risk blowing-up the rifle's receiver! At 1000 yards, the bullet must remain supersonic ... above about 1140 fps.\n\nIf you want to shoot both NRA short-range and long-range, I would suggest you get resourceful! Buy a "rack grade" M1 (or barreled action, less wood) from the CMP for about $300. Then:\n1) Buy the NRA reprint on the M1Garand (maybe $5), it has an excellent section on doing M1 trigger jobs and glass bedding your rifle.\n2) Buy a finished replacement M1 Garand stock (complete) from Boyd's stocks (about $78)\n3) You can have a medium or heavy weight "match" barrel installed for less than $500 ... price varies based on the barrel selected ... Champion's Choice will sell you a Douglas barrel in .30-06 or .308 and install it, all for $260.\n4) You can then do your own trigger job for under $10 if you have the proper stones.\n5) You can glassbed your rifle following the directions in the "reprint" for about $20 (you can get accraglass from Brownell's for about $20)\n6) You can purchase and install National Match sights for about $125, available from either Springfield Armory or Fulton Armory\n7) Add a sling, and you are set ... total outlay, about $850\n\nYou will need additional toys, at a minimum: a shooting stool, a good spotting scope, a spotting scope stand, a shooting coat, and a shooting mat!\n\nThe rifle, built as above, will be very good and competitive out to 1000 yards! And you can build it in either .308 or the original .30-'06!\n\nYour options for rifles, therefore, are:\n1) Build an M1 as outlined, above for about $850\n2) Buy a "built" match grade M1 for just over $2000\n3) Buy a National Match M1A for just over $2100\n4) Buy a DCM Legal AR 15 (Match accurized, i.e.: Armalite M15A2 National Mat
160769
I just checked out the Daisy website and it looks like your sight might not fit the gun without something in between them, BUT BEFORE STARTING MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A CO2 CARTRIDGE IN THE GUN  AND THERE ARE NO BB'S OR PELLETS IN THE GUN AS WELL.  ASK A PARENT OR OTHER ADULT TO CHECK AND MAKE SURE THE GUN IS SAFE TO HANDLE AND WORK ON!! ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AN ADULTS PERMISSION TO DO ANYTHING THAT I MENTION IN THIS ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION AND GET HELP WITH ANY OR ALL OF THIS YOUR PARENTS DECIDE.\n\nTo figure this out check the top of the pistol on the flat part between the sights (top of the "slide") and see if it's got an angled groove on each side about 1/8" from top to bottom. It would kinda look like an angle cut into the slide from near the rear sight tword the front with the deep part of the angle  at the bottom of the cut.   The bottom of the sight rails would fit into these grooves. If they are there great all you have to do is loosen the screws on the scope rail till the legs are far enough apart to fit over the slide and into the grooves. Then you tighten up the screws firmly, but not too tight and follow the instructions to zero the sight that came with it.\n\nIf the grooves arn't in the slide then to mount the scope you will have to put a "tip off rail" on top of the slide. They are around $4-$10 depending on the brand and can be found at any gunshop or even Wal-Mart. It might be too much of a hassle or cost too much, but heres how. Just make sure make sure the tipoff rail is the right width for the rails on the scope before you start anything.\n\nThe only two ways to mount the rail and have the sight be acurate it to either screw or epoxy it to the slide top. To use screws you'd have to drill and tap the slide-lots of work and you need the right tools.  Useing epoxy would be cheap easy and look professional if your careful. The only drawback might be you can't use the regular sights if the rail sticks up too far and gets in the way.  To mount the rail with epoxy just cut the rail about 1/8" longer than the rails on the sight you bought.  Screww the scope to the cut rail and set it on top of the slide to make sure it fits and isn't in the way of anthing you don't want it to be. Then mark where you want the ends of the rail to be lightly with a pencil or something. Take the scope off the rail and set the rail back down anline it up again with the marks you made. Use some masking tape and after you line it up front to back and side to side tape it down so it is'nt going to move. Mark the slide top lightly and gently around the rail and then take the rail and tape off. now all thats left is to lightly sand the bottom of the rail (that sits on slide) to remove paint (glue dosn't stick to paint well.) You'll need to take some paint off of the top of the slide inside the marks you made. Don't worry about getting close to the edges by the marks a 1/4" wide down th middle is fine. get some more masking tape ready and mix up a small amount of epoxy. The "instant" 5 minute epoxy works very well for this. make sure everythings readyyou have to work quickly once the glue is mixed.  Spread a thin layer on the slide where the paint is gone and a very little bit on the rail, but only where it will touch the glueon the slide. Just set the rail on the slide, line it up and tape it down.set the gun up so the slide top isn't tipped or the rail might move. Don't move the gun or the tape until the glue directions say the epoxy has cured fully.  When the glue is cured, take off the tape, screw on the scope and follow the  directins that came whith the scope to align it. your all set.  make sure to follow all of the saftey instructions and warning that came with your daisy pistol.  If y ou lost them Daisy can send you a copy, just got to their website and ask.  \n\nI'm not sure of your age, but MAKE SURE your PARENTS are ok with you
210691
Just call Crosman at 1-800-7AIRGUN & ask for a manual for your M70. If your gun has a serial number, make sure to have it ready.  They will be gald to help you out!
782344
Yep!  Contact Williams Gun sights.  They manufacture all kinds of sights for guns and will have exactly what you are looking for.  I don't know what their website address is but you can do a Google search for them.
451723
Try http://midwayusa.com  they have gunsmithing books
477848
Here is what I found. Beware and do a thorough search before buying or selling. Mine have varied by $1,000. depending on who you talk too! Take them to atleast 3 different dealers. I found that books are a good start but do not relate the current market. Good Luck\nhttp://www.armchairgunshow.com/\nhttp://www.gunsandammomag.com/values/\nhttp://www.gunsnstuf.com/links/GunValues.html