What are the differences between different golf clubs?
542577
In general, the difference is the length of the shaft and the angle of the face of the club.  The lower the number, the longer the shaft and the more upright the face.  Higher number clubs are shorter and have a more angular face.\n\nThis results in longer shots for the smaller numbered irons (2, 3, 4), because more of the swing goes into pushing the ball down the course.  It also results in more accurate shots on the higher number irons (8, 9, pitching wedge), because the shorter shaft is more controllable.\n\nThis is also true for woods, where the smaller numbered ones tend to hit the ball further (the driver is actually the #1 wood), while higher numbered woods hit the ball shorter but more accurately.  The difference is that any particular wood will generally hit the ball a lot further than the same numbered iron.
214483
there are several clubs, being woods or irons... and the trusty putter... in any event, a wood and iron have numbers to them.  1, 2, 3, ... these numbers indicate the loft you will achieve with the proper shot, in other words. 1 being the wammer jammer, will aid you in getting the greatest distance on the ball, where as a 3 wood will be something you would use when you are wanting less distance than the 1... Irons... the higher the number 1 thru  nine...( it won't let me put in 9... must be tipper gore at work again!) works in the same effect.... if you are closer to the hole, you will want to use perhaps an 8 or 9 iron, which will have quite a bit of loft on the shot... or you may want to use a pitching wedge, which will have more loft than the aforementioned clubs... then theres the sand wedge... have I gottan the point accross?
549930
go to a well stocked golf store and try both out.  buy the ones you like.
392662
Dynamic Gold Regular shafts are probably on more clubs than all other steel shafts put together.  If you swing harder than average (as determined by clubhead speed, not by effort), you may benefit from the stiff shafts, which flex less and more quickly than R shafts.  Or, if you use shafts that are more than 1" longer than standard, you may need a stiffer shaft.  Longer shafts flex more than shorter ones.  Go to a good golf store and have your head speed measured with a shaft comparable to the one you contemplate using.  That is the most reliable indicator of which flex you need.\n\nGraphite shafts are generally lighter than steel, but do not necessarily flex more.  They come in a range of stiffnesses, just like steel shafts.  The reduced weight often permits more clubhead speed or longer shafts with no weight increase, and so require a stiffer shaft than a comparable steel shaft.
1120971
You don't want to spend too much money on a beginner's set because you should outgrow them in a year or two anyway. However, you definitely want forgiving clubs which means cavity-backs. \n\nNow on to golf clubs. For beginners, I would recommend the Mizuno MX-17s. They are very forgiving. They have recently been replaced by the MX-900, so you should be able to get a good deal on the 17s new. Mizuno's are famous for the softness of their forged irons, and even though the 17's are cast not forged, they come close to the forged irons in feel. When it comes to quality, Mizuno irons cannot be beat.\n\nAnother popular beginner's set is the Pings. The new G5s are quite pricey, but you may be able to find a used set or perhaps a G2 set for a good price. The Pings are also well known for being forgiving, but they just looked too ugly for me. I couldn't stand the look of them while I still find myself admiring my MX-17s after a full year. \n\nThe Callaways, imo, are just as pricey as the Pings without their forgiveness. They don't look as good as the Mizunos either.\n\nIf you are just experimenting with golf and not sure if you will stick with it, go with the much cheaper 2nd tier brands. These include Tommy Armour, Ben Hogan, Adams, etc. They should be almost as good if not as good as the big brands but at a fraction of the price. If you decide to stick with the game after a year, you can always upgrade later.\n\nAbout fitting, it is certainly important.  Most golf stores will fit clubs for you for free if you purchase them from their store.\n\nAbout shafts, unless a golf store measures your swing speed at 95mph or higher, go with Regular Flex shafts, not the Stiff Flex. So many people have an ego issue and go with the stiff when regular is most appropriate for the majority of players.  As a beginner, I would doubt that your swing speed would be fast enough to warrant stiff flex, so don't let anyone talk you into stiff without measuring your speed first.  (And don't buy the "you'll grow into it" line ... buy what is best for you now.)\n\nRegarding woods, you wont need them if you are a true beginner.  If you have a pretty comfortable and consistent swing with your irons, then you'd be ready to move on to woods if you're not there already.\n\nHope this helps!
193734
depends on the level of golfer.  If you are a beginner I would just get a set of inexpensive clubs that are designed for women, like Spalding or something like that.  If you are not a beginner or you take it seriously I would go with either Callaway or Cobra, and make sure you get fit by a PGA Pro.  Most women's sets consist of more fairway woods or hybrids because they are easier to hit than long irons.  I wouldn't recommend getting a 3 or 4 iron, but woods or hybrids instead.
326864
This is the yardage for a beginner golfers\n1 Wood (drive) – 180 Yards\n2 Wood –170 Yards\n5 Wood –160 Yards\n4 Iron –150 Yards\n5 Iron –140 Yards\n6 Iron –130 Yards\n\n7 Iron – 120 yards\n8 Iron – 110 yards\n9 Iron – 100 yards\nPitching Wedge –90 yards\nYou can find more information like this on www.playgolfamerica.com
969164
Take the three and test them on a launch monitor with a certified club fitter or PGA pro.  They will be able to tell which one is best for your swing.  They are all good drivers.  The major differences are with trajectory and forgiveness.  A fitter or pro will look at your skill level (be honest about your handicap), swing speed, ball speed, and launch angle......and will be able to advise the best one for you.\n\nOne more thing to try....go on eBay and see if you can find one of the newer TM's for a better price.  I have a TM R7-425 with a 75g V2 shaft and I love it !!!!!
571252
Higher irons in the front and middle to low irons in the middle. Drivers and fairway woods should be placed in the top.  In other words, the longest clubs go toward the top and the shorter ones towards the bottom.
320916
The clubs are fine the most important thing is making sure you have the correct one.  Trying out several and being fit is the key.  You have to find the club that looks good, feels good and does the job with your regular swing.  You can always sign up for a free golf lesson with one of your local PGA pros at www.playgolfamerica.com if your having trouble hitting them.  My first option would be have the checked out and switched out if it's not to late.
786392
Which Type of Club Shaft Best Suits Your Game?\nShould you go with steel shafts or graphite shafts? What are the differences between the two? Is one type of shaft better for you than another?\n\nThese are questions that many newcomers to golf - and even many golfers who have played for years - have in mind when they go shopping for a new set of clubs.\n\nIn the "old days," the general feeling was that recreational golfers, mid- and high-handicappers, should use graphite, while the better players, low-handicappers, would stick with steel. That's not necessarily true anymore, however. Even PGA Tour golfers can be seen using graphite shafts. In 2004, Tiger Woods switched from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft in his driver (most pros made that switch even earlier).\n\nAs with every type of golf equipment, the key is to try out both kinds and determine which type best fits your swing. \n\nBut there are differences between steel and graphite that could help you choose one over the other.\nSome Keypoints\n• Steel shafts are less expensive than graphite, so the same set of clubs will cost less with steel shafts than with graphite shafts.\n\n• Steel shafts were once considered much more durable than graphite. That's not so much the case anymore. Quality graphite shafts will last as long as you do so long as they are not chipped, cracked, or the laminate-seal is not peeling. Steel shafts will last forever so long as they are not bent, rusted or pitted.\n\n• Graphite shafts transmit fewer vibrations up the shaft to the golfer's hands than do steel shafts. This might be good or bad, depending on your skill and your desire. You might want that added feedback that steel shafts offer - or you might be tired of your hands stinging so much on mis-hit shots.\n\nThe Most Important Point\nThe biggest and by far most important difference between steel and graphite shafts is this: graphite shafts are lighter than steel shafts. So clubs that have graphite shafts will be lighter than otherwise identical clubs that have steel shafts.\n\nAccording to clubmaking and equipment guru Tom Wishon, the difference in weight between graphite shafts and steel shafts will translate, for most golfers, into an additional 2-4 mph of swing speed with graphite. And that could mean an extra 6-12 yards of distance with a graphite shaft, compared to a steel shaft.\n\nThat's why, in the everpresent quest for more yards, more and more golfers prefer graphite shafts.\n\nWhat It All Means\nYou probably want more yards, too. So it's obvious: You should choose graphite shafts, right? Probably, but not necessarily.\n\nAs we said, the majority of golfers these days are going to graphite, at least in their woods, but steel shafts maintain a very strong presence in golf, especially among low-handicappers and scratch players.\n\nIn many cases, those are golfers who don't need the extra boost of swing speed that graphite shafts can provide. Players who prefer steel shafts often make that choice because their heavier weight provides the golfer with a feeling of more control over the clubhead during the swing. And these are players who can analyze and benefit from the added feedback (more vibrations traveling up the shaft) that steel provides.\n\nWe'll quote Tom Wishon: "If gaining more distance is a primary goal for the golfer, they should definitely be fit with the proper graphite shaft design in their woods and irons to match their swing. On the other hand, if distance is not the main focus for the golfer because they already have a high swing speed, if they like the feel of steel and their swing tempo matches a little better to the higher total weight steel shafts bring to the clubs, then steel is the better option."\n\nAnd we'll add that anyone who is not physically strong, or has physical problems in their hands, forearms or shoulders that are exacerbated by the bad vibes of a mis-hit shot, should go with graphite.\n\n\n
209353
I'm also a 7 handicap and I would say that most players at this level play the following irons: Titleist, Cleveland, Taylor Made, Muzuno.  I would go with irons with some game improvement features, but that still allow you to work the ball. \n\nMy bag is almost exclusively Cleveland, but that is personal preference.  I'm looking for new irons and looking at the following clubs:\n\nCleveland CG4\nTitleist 804's\nTaylor Made rac OS\n\nBottom line, make sure you demo your clubs at an outdoor range.
816110
The Grafalloy Pro-Launch Iron. It is pretty light and is one of the coolest looking shafts around. It has a low bend point so your shots will go very high for dead stops on the greens. It's torque is also perfect for players.
722793
It really depends on which generic clubs your wondering about.  It also depends on your ability.  If your a beginner or high handicapper it won't make much difference until you become more proficient.  Then you would be able to see the difference with a better set of clubs.  Otherwise save some money till you get better.  Some of the generic clubs are actually not bad considering the price difference.
1162946
Try the Tour Edge Exotics driver.  It may be expensive, but it is supposed to be one of the best drivers available.  Tour Edge clubs in general, are excellent but somewhat underrated in the US, even though word of mouth is changing this quickly.  Their fairway woods which have been out for a few years now and have achieved a reputation for being the best woods available.\n\nGive the Exotics driver a try at a range and see what you think.
1182971
Yeh, 423 has more dimples than 408, otherwise it's just very technical on aerodynamic that doesn't make sense to most golfers. You need to hit at near zero handicap to really feel the different in golf balls, let alone the number of dimples.
619986
Either way you decide to go you should get the irons custom fit. For some reason the golf consumer believes that name-brand clubs off the rack are "better." This is simply false. \n\nIf the average Joe could witness the hours of tweeking that go into a touring pro's clubs, then they'd realize that it's not the name on the clubhead, it the custom fitting that makes it all work.\n\nTo get everything just right, your swing has to be analyzed either with computer or by lots of experimentation or, preferably, by both.\n\nA book that you may benefit greatly from is Tom Wishon's "The Search for the Perfect Golf Club." (See link 1)\n\nSee link 2 for a quick Q&A discussing custom clubfitting.\n\nNo, I do not work for nor am I associated with Wishon Golf in any way, shape, or form. I actually play a set of Golfworks irons, TaylorMade driver (a gift...would never have spent that much on a driver), and a SeeMore putter (like Payne Stewart's).