In a single club tournament, when using 7 iron normally, can you use putter on green, and also in a bunker?
551915
In a "single club" tournament, you can use only one club. If you're playing with a 7-iron, then you must putt with the 7-iron and play 7-iron from no matter were you are on the course. I've seen variations where you're allowed one club plus a putter, but in a TRUE single club tournament, you are allowed ONLY one club.
1075645
One shot less than par for the hole.  2 shots less woulld be an eagle.  One shot over par would be a bogey.
6098
It all depends what course. Who was paying etc. \n\nIf it was all comped and we were playing at Augusta....sure. \n\nIf we have to pay and play at West's Mogadore Country Club....then HECKIES no!
193734
depends on the level of golfer.  If you are a beginner I would just get a set of inexpensive clubs that are designed for women, like Spalding or something like that.  If you are not a beginner or you take it seriously I would go with either Callaway or Cobra, and make sure you get fit by a PGA Pro.  Most women's sets consist of more fairway woods or hybrids because they are easier to hit than long irons.  I wouldn't recommend getting a 3 or 4 iron, but woods or hybrids instead.
1143948
Agreed.  There is no standard distance for a club, it all depends on who is swinging it.  For example, put a 9 iron in my hands, and I'll hit the ball about 115 yards, but put it in Tiger's hands and he'll hit it 150 or so.  \n\nThe best thing to do is go to your local driving range and hit all of your clubs - try to get a sense for how far you hit each club on average and use that as your guide.  Bear in mind the distance you are hitting each club today will change as you progress, so adust accordingly.\n\nHave fun!
675041
Woods – \nHave you tried the new Hybirds out?  If not hit a 3 and 4.  They take the place of long irons.  I think you will like it, almost everyone does.  \n\nWedges – Your wedge should be a 52 or 54 and you have the 60.  I suggest you get a 56 or 58.  Check the length, I purchased a Ben Hogan SI and it was the same length as my 9 iron, so if went just as far as the wedge.  When it comes to bounce if you 60 has a lot, do the opposite with the new one.  \nGood Luck
1012072
you would probably get better results from your shots as your ball will stop quicker on the green. The only thing is that the divot has to be after contact is made with the ball, if it is before that is just hitting it fat and you will lose distance and maybe hurt your wrist
1049254
109, you are well on your way to breaking 100 in the next round or 3, if you haven't already. Point being you are a fair to good club swinger who is improving. \nMost of the above answers are good, but just getting it out in play will not teach you how to hit a long bunker shot which you are going to need as your game improves. If the smart play is to punch it out because of the situation like the lip, trees, lake etc. then do it, but you still need to hit a few long ones because this won't be the last time you are in one.\n   Greg V had most of the components right, but he got confused on ball placement. In order to hit the ball first you have to put it a little BACK in your stance (and I mean a little) so you strike the ball first not the sand. The idea being to slightly hit it into the sand which repells the ball out or get it out clean. In a green side bunker you play the ball a little forward so you strike the sand first which explodes under the ball and forces it out. I don't know about the feet digging in part, but I always waggle my feet in so as not to loose my footing, which as you know if you ever played in sneakers on wet grass, can really ruin a shot.\nYou don't necessarily have to go for the green either. If you think you can make it, or,  if you don't you won't leave a hard chip (like another bunker shot) then go for it, that's the fun of the game.. My guess if you were 200 out it was your 2nd shot on a par 4 or 5. To make par, hit it to a distance you are confident from, say 100yds. So say you hit your wedge 100yds.usually, in this bunker trap you would hit a 9 or 8 to make it go 100 yds because you loose distance from the sand which is not as solid as the fairway. Chip up and hopefully make the putt for par.
786392
Which Type of Club Shaft Best Suits Your Game?\nShould you go with steel shafts or graphite shafts? What are the differences between the two? Is one type of shaft better for you than another?\n\nThese are questions that many newcomers to golf - and even many golfers who have played for years - have in mind when they go shopping for a new set of clubs.\n\nIn the "old days," the general feeling was that recreational golfers, mid- and high-handicappers, should use graphite, while the better players, low-handicappers, would stick with steel. That's not necessarily true anymore, however. Even PGA Tour golfers can be seen using graphite shafts. In 2004, Tiger Woods switched from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft in his driver (most pros made that switch even earlier).\n\nAs with every type of golf equipment, the key is to try out both kinds and determine which type best fits your swing. \n\nBut there are differences between steel and graphite that could help you choose one over the other.\nSome Keypoints\n• Steel shafts are less expensive than graphite, so the same set of clubs will cost less with steel shafts than with graphite shafts.\n\n• Steel shafts were once considered much more durable than graphite. That's not so much the case anymore. Quality graphite shafts will last as long as you do so long as they are not chipped, cracked, or the laminate-seal is not peeling. Steel shafts will last forever so long as they are not bent, rusted or pitted.\n\n• Graphite shafts transmit fewer vibrations up the shaft to the golfer's hands than do steel shafts. This might be good or bad, depending on your skill and your desire. You might want that added feedback that steel shafts offer - or you might be tired of your hands stinging so much on mis-hit shots.\n\nThe Most Important Point\nThe biggest and by far most important difference between steel and graphite shafts is this: graphite shafts are lighter than steel shafts. So clubs that have graphite shafts will be lighter than otherwise identical clubs that have steel shafts.\n\nAccording to clubmaking and equipment guru Tom Wishon, the difference in weight between graphite shafts and steel shafts will translate, for most golfers, into an additional 2-4 mph of swing speed with graphite. And that could mean an extra 6-12 yards of distance with a graphite shaft, compared to a steel shaft.\n\nThat's why, in the everpresent quest for more yards, more and more golfers prefer graphite shafts.\n\nWhat It All Means\nYou probably want more yards, too. So it's obvious: You should choose graphite shafts, right? Probably, but not necessarily.\n\nAs we said, the majority of golfers these days are going to graphite, at least in their woods, but steel shafts maintain a very strong presence in golf, especially among low-handicappers and scratch players.\n\nIn many cases, those are golfers who don't need the extra boost of swing speed that graphite shafts can provide. Players who prefer steel shafts often make that choice because their heavier weight provides the golfer with a feeling of more control over the clubhead during the swing. And these are players who can analyze and benefit from the added feedback (more vibrations traveling up the shaft) that steel provides.\n\nWe'll quote Tom Wishon: "If gaining more distance is a primary goal for the golfer, they should definitely be fit with the proper graphite shaft design in their woods and irons to match their swing. On the other hand, if distance is not the main focus for the golfer because they already have a high swing speed, if they like the feel of steel and their swing tempo matches a little better to the higher total weight steel shafts bring to the clubs, then steel is the better option."\n\nAnd we'll add that anyone who is not physically strong, or has physical problems in their hands, forearms or shoulders that are exacerbated by the bad vibes of a mis-hit shot, should go with graphite.\n\n\n
1008955
Practice putting like a mad man... I'm talking several times a week for a couple of hours at a time.  If you can one put or two put everything then becoming a single golfer should be easy.\n\nShort game is important too, but that takes more practice time.  I think you'll see fastest results from developing solid putting skills.
458119
Yes they can, like the answer above you can't see the true shot, plus you try to hit shots that work well with the game.  Those shots will hurt your regular game.  Example I played several that all you had to do is hit the ball low and hard with a 7 iron and it would give me credi for a 280 yard drive.
1157756
I carry 16 clubs in my bag on normal play. Driver, 3,4 (sometimes 5) woods, 2-9 pitching 52,56, 60 wedges and putter. I have difficulties taking two clubs off in competition as it is allowed only 14 clubs, but usually I sacrifice 4 wood and 60 degree. Sometimes depending on the course I play, I take also 1 iron in the bag, too but then I need to take out additional club which usually is 52 degree wedge. Hate who made the 14 club rules, in the beginning you allowed 18 clubs.\n\nDriver is when you want to hit very far. Sometimes, 3 wood is needed for the tee shot if the fairway is very narrow, and if it is really tiny, nobody would care if you tee off with iron. 3 wood is used also for hitting long approach from the fairway, and sometimes Tiger Woods use it for chipping shots, or putting from off the green. The rest of the irons are used for various distance depending from each person to person. Try yours in the driving range and you'll know your distance for each iron.\n\nIn the beginning, if you don't know it, use 5, 7 iron, pitching and putter. 5 for the longest distance, 7 for medium distance or about 130 yards, pitching for less than that and putter for the green. Wait another 6 months, I'll you more.
37059
That depends entirely on the specifics of the shot. How much rough do you have to carry? Is it only green that you need to run on? Are there obstacles in between you and the hole?  What you need to do is go to a driving range that has a chipping green and figure it out for yourself.  There is no set answer.  If you'd like to try a different approach to chipping, rather than smacking at the ball, try this:  Put the ball in the middle of your stance with feet at shoulder width.  Take a PUTTING grip on the club, and putt it.  Just like a putt, don't swing faster on your follow through than on your backswing. Make a smooth, steady stroke.  Try that out at the range, and write down, or just remember, the distances that they carry.  Remember, if you want the ball to get up quicker, and roll less, use a higher lofted club, like a PW or SW, or even a Lob Wedge.  And if you want the ball to roll further, use a smaller iron. (5i, 6i, 4i, whatever works)  Standing 10 feet off the green, with 50 feet of green to run, I would suggest something like a 5 iron, with the stroke I mentioned before.
535108
No they are not according to the rules of golf:\n  \nFigure 9.\nThe material and construction of, or any treatment to, the face or clubhead must not have the effect at impact of a spring (test on file), or impart significantly more or less spin to the ball than a standard steel face, or have any other effect which would unduly influence the movement of the ball.\n\nThe face of the club must be hard and rigid (some exceptions may be made for putters) and, except for such markings listed below, must be smooth and must not have any degree of concavity.\n\n  b. Impact Area Roughness and Material\nExcept for markings specified in the following paragraphs, the surface roughness within the area where impact is intended (the “impact area”) must not exceed that of decorative sandblasting, or of fine milling (see Fig. IX).\n\nThe whole of the impact area must be of the same material. Exceptions may be made for wooden clubs
321759
I used to be a very long hitter (with drivers) and not very good at iron shots. I spent a good amount of time in the driving range practicing on iron shots, that I can hit quality shorts from every iron (including 1 and 2 irons), but then I can't hit any of the woods anymore. There were five years long that I can't hit a solid driver shots until recently, my ex boss pointed out that I teed up too low (driver these day are 460 cc), and another friend pointed out that I position my tee too far back in the stand.\n\nI suddendly realise the important of ball positioning, and words like drivers are hit on the way up whilst irons are hit on the way down. I reposition my ball, tee up much higher, and now I have a very quality driver shots without sacrificing my iron shots.\n\nThe important is the swing is the same. If you could hit good iron shots (assuming your swing are OK), I suggest you try moving the ball forward in your stand as much as possible and try hit many short for a test in the range, and don't forget to tee up high for drivers.
816110
The Grafalloy Pro-Launch Iron. It is pretty light and is one of the coolest looking shafts around. It has a low bend point so your shots will go very high for dead stops on the greens. It's torque is also perfect for players.
192166
Read this article:\n\nhttp://www.golfweb.com/story/6741277