what is the neutral gear setting on a 24 gear(speed) bicycle?
536221
There is no neutral gear. The chain is least stressed when it is has no lateral flex - in other words when it runs straight back from a front cog to the rear cog best aligned with the front. On a 24 speed this would typically be the middle front and gear 4 at the rear (where gear 1 is the smallest). Unstressed, the chain is wasting less of the energy you're supplying, but its pretty marginal and you need to be in whatever gear is right for the circumstances - so in practice this is almost irrelevant.\n\nAs a general rule, use your gears in groups - small front relates to back big three, then middle front to middle back three and big front to small back three with the flexibility of one back cog overlap each side for each front. Never try to run small front to small rear for instance and vice versa. \n\nEvery rider finds with experience a combination of front and rear that suits them well for generally cruising about - for me this is that middle front and gear 4 combination On the flat, pottering about I can ride in this all day and never use the gears.
413551
http://www.arbusa.com/air_locker_locking_differentials.htm
803928
F1 gearboxes are semi-automatic 7+1 speed gearboxes controlled by paddle shifters. That's 7-speed for forward motion and a reverse gear. But its use is restricted by the rules to certain situations and to certain parts of the track.\nA car is disqualified if it moves in the pits in reverse gear.
286870
1. manual clutch or centrifugal clutch? probably centrifugal if not climbing hills.\n\n2. ratio spread. How far apart to make the gearing or belts? Too far apart and you'll never make it into second gear. Too close, and you'll not go fast. Lower first if you want to climb hills.\n\nI would suggest a sheave pulley design for continuous ratio - no gears. The sheave is spring loaded so the belt digs down into the pulley halves when high torque occurs. Kind of an automatic transmission. Check www.graingers.com,\nsearch on "sheave".\nHave fun.
623007
150 KB/s\n\n24X is 3600KB/s
1184958
Quite simple.\nYou pedal the cycle to rotate a gear . The gear is connected to a chain which rotates another gear connected to the wheel and when this wheel rotates, it pushes you forward.\nAs for the balance, it depends upon the rider.
1183056
it is ok to roll in neutral. but you dont want to leave the clutch dissengaged for long periods of time because it causes extra wear on the clutch. idling on a gear would mean you are in gear and have the clutch pulled in. idling on neutral is just being in neutral.
951060
Place the chain on the smallest chainring (in front) and the smallest cog (in the rear). \nLace it through the derailleurs as normal with the ends of the chain at the bottom (between the rear derailleur and the chainring).\nPull the chain just enough to have the derailleur pulleys place the slightest amount of tension on the chain. If it is necessary to remove links to achieve this, then do so. \n\nThe key is to have a VERY small amount of tension on the chain (caused by the rear derailleur) when the chain is on the smalles chainring and cog. It shouldn't hang loose, and it shouldn't be too tight.
112586
What they are setting their bikes on is a trainer.  I have a bike set up on one right next to me.  Trainers vary in price.  You can check several of the online bike stores and find them on sale at this time of year.\n\nIdea is simple.  Put your back wheel in a stand so it is off the ground.  You have a resistance unit that rubs against the tire.  The resistance unit allows you to adjust the amount of the resistance you can make it harder or easier.  The biggest difference between trainer is how the resistance unit acheives its resistance. The more expensive units are generally quieter.  The cheaper units use wind  and are very noisy.
96754
Im not really clear what you mean by settings but the best physical part swap for acceleration in ring and pinion swap to lower the final drive ratio which means the engine revs faster hope i could help
923060
Transmission of what.\nShift to neutral.
559385
Too many variables to give a complete answer. It depends on how steep the hill is, how fast you are going, how much you car weighs, how much torque your engine develops, etc\n\nThe short answer is: If your engine is lugging down, switch to a lower gear. If your car has an automatic transmission, it should select the appropriate gear automatically.
758239
First of all, you need to disregard the person indicating that electrical or electrically assisted bikes are for lazy people.\n\nThen you would want to check out this site.\nhttp://www.bernsonev.com/wilderness-conversion-bl36-bike-conversion-kits-p-121.html\n\nI have converted my TREK R200 recumbent with 20 inch wheels with the BL36 kit with the 12AH sealed lead acid battery pack.  I was able to cut my 18 mile one way commute to work from 1:20 minutes to just under an hour.  I use this assisted ride to make it possible to commute more often.  You will work as hard or as little as you decide although 20 miles is the absolutely max range you will get with out significant pedaling.\nEssentially, it feels like riding on a tandem bicycle with a very strong stoker.
704898
maby this will help............http://www.amazon.com/GT-Speed-10-Function-Bicycle-Computer/dp/B000DZGLPA
960317
Technically your bike has 21 gears--the number of rings on the front times the number of rings on your cassette in the back.  However, you don't really have 21 usable different gears.  This is because:\n\n1) Depending on how many teeth are on your chainrings (front rings, you have 3) and your cassette (7 rings on back), you may have some gears that repeat.  It is all about the ratio between the front ring and the back ring the chain is on.  For example, let's say your middle front ring has 38 teeth and one of the rings on your cassette in the back has 19 teeth, you have a ratio of 2 to 1 when your chain is on these two rings.  If your smallest ring in the front is 28 teeth and your smallest ring in the back is 14, you again have a ratio of 2 to 1, so these gears are actually the same.  \n\n2) There are also certain gears you should not use.  You should avoid cross-chaining--being in smallest ring in front (closest to the bike, on the inside) and the smallest ring in back (farthest away from the bike) or largest in front (farthest away from bike) and largest in back (closest to the bike).  Either of these gears, or close to them, puts a lot of stress on your chain because it torques it sideways.  This will cause additional wear on the chain and shorten the life of it.  Most bikes will allow you to do this because the chain is put at a length to allow for it, but it will also likely cause your chain to rub somewhere and also possibly make your bike not stay in gear very well.  \n\nHowever, these days, rather than multiplying the number of front and back rings to get speeds, bikes are now often referred to by the number of rings on the chain ring and cassette separately.  You ride a 3 by 7 (3x7).  A double road bike with a 10 speed cassette (typical of today's high end road bike) is a 2x10.  A more touring oriented road bike often has a triple chainring and is likely to be a 3x9 or 3x10.  A fairly typical mountain bike is a 3x9, but there are a lot of 2x9 or 3x8s out there too.
289706
throw = the distance the gear lever moves inbetween gears, the short shifter reduces the gear change times slightly by reducing the distance you need to move the gear lever.\n\nWill improve acceleration, but all depends on how quickly the driver can press and release the clutch as well as changing gear
1037503
Check out this photo for proper chain configuration-\n\nhttp://152.10.254.216/images/Shimano_XTR_derailleur0_DSC.jpg