how to make copper clad stainless steel?
535149
Actually the copper doesn't come directly from the solution...\n\nNot sure how much detail you want, but it does use electroplating.  This means that it uses electricity to plate metal on an object.  The stainless steel object is put on the "positive end" and a lump of pure copper is placed on the "negative end."  A low voltage is used because a high voltage plates too fast, and the layer will peel off quickly.  If copper is the plating, then the solution must be a fairly low-concentration copper sulfate (CuSO4) solution, meaning that copper is the only metal present in the electrochemical cell.  The negative end is called the anode, and this decreases in mass as its copper ions are taken to the positive end -- the cathode.  \n\nThis method of plating multiple metals is actually fairly common, because the properties of each one can be combined.  Nickel can be used for farm equipment and engines because it can withstand a lot of force, silver is used for decoration, chromium is used to withstand a lot of use (like a spoon).  Copper is able to conduct heat and helps food cook evenly.
24810
Cu + 2H2SO4 --> 2H2O + SO2 + CuSO4\nDouble the H2SO4 and the H2O.
1125460
You should consider/investigate electroless plating processes. \n\nHi-Phosphorous Electroless nickel is a continuous coating easily applied inside container/cavities like your teapot, and is reasonably affordable.  Contains mostly nickel with a minor amount of phosphorous - the high phosphorous version is quite corrosion resistant to many acids except sulphuric.  Low-phos and standard electroless are cheaper, but with lower corrosion resistance - these might work for you too - a little experimentation is worth doing.  Check around for prices at the plating shop - coating quality varies a lot.\n\nThere is an electroless gold plating process too (of high purity), but you can imagine it is more expensive and is porous at the microscopic level, so doesn't give you the corrosion resistance you might otherwise expect.  It is very possible to combine the two: modestly thin gold (10-30um) on top of nickel, and then you'd have a pretty good coating at a reasonable price.\n\nThere is an old 'tinning' plating process utilizing tin (Sn), but I think it is electrolytic and hard to put down inside a cavity like a teapot.  \n\nA silver-tin tinning "hot wash" is traditionally done inside copper pots (after acid cleaning) to provide a food-grade coating, but the teapot will have to be heated up quite hot (~200°C/400°F) to soldering temperatures, and this may play havoc with the existing silver plating, or even with the construction of the teapot (the spout may fall off).\n\nFor food-grade and chemical purity, consider some kind of polymer coating, but you'll have problems with the coating sticking, or you'll have to heat up the teapot pretty hot to cure the paint (check out "Teflon" or "Silverstone" coating services); there is a very remote possibility of an acrylic paint coating (solvent evaporation), but you'd need to know what was in the paint, or make the paint yourself.\n\nAny way you approach this problem, however, is going to run into the problem of the cost of labor - the coating material cost isn't going to the be the high cost adder (mostly because the coating is so thin).  Disposal of the plating fluids will be expensive too, so factor that into the cost as well.\n\nBy the way, you didn't say what metal was exposed - if copper, that is OK - copper pipes are used in household plumbing.  Just clean up the copper and enjoy.  Iron and aluminum is OK too, just keep everything scrubbed clean.
863889
Copper is used as a conductor and as a easily maliable (formable) metal.  It is also naturally anti-bacterial.
283977
Density(g/cm3) Steel Grade \n7.93 201,202,301,302,304,304L,305,321 \n\n7.98 309S,310S,316,316L,347 \n\n7.75 405,410,420 \n\n7.70 409,430,434 \n\nThere are some familiar Density of stainless steel above. Wish it be helpful.
159930
u will need access 2 an arc welder. find the metal u want(get a lot of heavy duty metal that will b easy 2 cary) \n\nstep1 cut the metal u will use 4 the top piece 2 the size u want with a gas welding torch\n\nstep2 cut the metal u will use 4 the 3 legs to the same size as each other but wutever height u want.\n\nstep3 weld the leg pieces together with a flat piece of metal to make a "T" (u will have 3 "T"s)\n\nstep4 weld the "T"s upside-down 2 the top bar.\n\nstep5 add a kinda thin (probly 1/8 inch) piece of metal 2 the top of the top bar (make t 1/8 inch pice about eight inches longer than the bar)\n\nstep6 weld the pieces 2gether\n\nstep7 bend the ends downward a lil bit\n\nstep8 now go use it!
878521
Copper. It is so brilliant
377534
errr, grind metals to a fine powder and mix them together and press them and you can get alloys physically impossible to make by forging.\n\numm, grind metal very fine so the oxidise and use them to make metal fires, such as "thermalite" for welding traintracks.
645368
They are cast onto flat aluminum, then molded. Not so difficult.
764844
Iridium is used in very shiny stainless steel.
388126
Brass cannot be electrochemically "plated", as it is an alloy.  The only way to "plate" it would be to dip the copper in the liquid.  Good luck.
998526
hmm. copper is a tricky metal. firstly conc. sulphuric acid and nitric acid are the only acid that would react as they are also strong oxidising agents. What happens when u dip the turning is that the copper is oxidised into copper(II)oxide and the sulphate ion is reduces to sulphite SO3 2-. I think so but not too sure if i'm right.
822936
Look here:\n\nhttp://jewelrymaking.about.com/od/solderinginformation/a/032806.htm\n\nand here:\n\nhttp://alchemy.chem.uwm.edu/amalgamator/NCW/ncw2001/results.html\n\nto get the following:\n\nThe pickle, used in the soldering metal process is a sodium bisulfate based solution. This pickle is particularly good for gold. Other metals use different pickles. For example, "Copper and copper alloys can be pickled in sulfuric acid solutions with the addition of an oxidizing agent (for heavy scales) such as chromic acid, nitric acid, ferric sulfate or sodium dichromate. NOTE: Chromic acid and dichromate require treatment for hexavalent chromium. Chromic acid or dichromate solutions tend to passivate the substrate and require activation prior to plating. Activation is commonly carried out in 5-10% sulfuric acid solution or 10-20% hydrochloric acid solution. If the latter is used to interchangeably pickle steel parts and copper parts, the dissolved copper must be closely controlled to avoid a typical problem. The dissolved copper will eventually plate out on the steel parts and cause adhesion problems."\n\nI hope this helps.  Be careful.
707894
Cu 2+ ClO3 1-\n\nCu(ClO3)2
562654
Okay, I'll try this one -\n\nRun this experiment twice (or more times), each time with a piece of metal having different density.  The metal piece should be of adequate size (a sewing needle isn't going to do it), it needs to be big enough to significantly affect the temperature of the water.  You will need to know the mass of the metal (i.e., weigh it) and have a thermometer capable of reading from room temperature up through boiling or so.  Please note this is not going to give you a highly accurate answer, but can give you a ballpark idea (I'm guessing you're probably not doing this in a 500 million dollar lab).\n\nThe procedure:\n\n1)  Measure and record room temperature as T1.\n\n2)  Weigh the metal, call it M1.\n\n3)  Bring a known quantity of water (weigh it, or measure it and convert to weight, call it M2) to a temperature just short of boiling (say 180F to 200F, use the same temperature for each run of this experiment).  Record the temperature as T2, and remove the heat source (take it off the burner, etc.).\n\n4)  Drop in a metal piece at room temperature.  Allow a couple of minutes for heat to exchange.  Make sure you use \nthe same amount of time for each run of this experiment.\n\n5)  Measure and record the new temperature of the water as T3.\n\n6)  Repeat with your other metal samples.\n\nYou can now estimate the specific heat capacity for each metal.  It will not be super-accurate (heat escapes your system, and temperatures won't have completely equalized), but should give you some idea.  Just assume all temperatures did equalize and that no heat escaped for calculational purposes.\n\nSince (you are assuming) the heat which left the water went into the metal, then the product of mass, specific heat capacity, and temperature change should be the same for both the metal and the water (but in opposite directions).\n\nThis means that:\n\n(M1)(c1)(T3-T1) = (M2)(cw)(T2-T3)\n\nwhere c1 is the specific heat capacity of the metal, and cw is the specific heat capacity of water (look it up on Google to get the units you need).\n\nSolving this, you get:\n\n......(M2)(cw)(T2-T3)\nc1 = -----------------\n........(M1)(T3-T1)\n\n(sorry about the dots, I'm trying to keep everything aligned)\n\nRepeat the calculations for each of the metals.\n\nYou will need to calculate (or look up) the densities of each of the metals.  Then, graph density vs. the specific heat capacities you calculated, and see if your hypothesis is true.\n\nHave fun!
169774
I use a torch with MAPP guess whenever I solder copper pipes.  For welding iron, I use a MIG or arc welder.
157251
if it is a stainless steel kettle, use anything that does not scratch the metal, so dont use like a brillo pad or something.