what is the difference between a business strike and regular strike coin?
536678
none...the business strike IS the regular strike as opposed to proof coins.
893892
They are unit coins and are traded and given out like baseball cards. (Boys toys never change do they?)  I have a snipers coin and 173 rd ABN coins for sell @ $10 + postage.  Southron_98@hotmail.com\n\n\n\nGod Bless You and The Southern People.
715076
Hello,\n\n(I setup a limited company some years ago). OK! its more usual for a person to be struck off than a company. But my understanding of this is that if a company is struck off, it means that company will not be included within a professional register or within a listing of companies recommended to provide a certain kind of service.\n\nFor example: an insurance company might strike off a car repairers from their recommended or trusted list. wont recommend them to clients or wont pass business to them any more.\n\n**Striking off usually refers more to individuals like doctors, surgeons, dentists, solicitors,etc.\n\n**The company could be struck off due to bad debits, or non payment of bills it owes to suppliers. But that would be termed blacklisted though.\n\nIR
341841
If I took one of my bars in to a coin shop to sell, and they wanted to drill in hole in my J/M serialized bar - I would give them a piece of my mind (loudly) and leave!\n\nyou should have NO problem selling them as long as they are a known refiner / assayer.\n\nAs far as the fees - thats a different matter.  I have only bought from a coin store, never sold to them.  Always sell to individuals - as they should atleast pay spot price (if price is in down trend) or more then spot if price is in uptrend.  I doubt a coin shop will pay over spot price, as they can get it AT spot price or just a tiny bit over, and thats thier worst case scenario.\n\nAnd along the same lines.  SHOP AROUND - can't stress that enough.  I found that coin shops in my area had very noticable price differences for the same thing - call each coin shop one morning, and ask for the price of a 10oz .999 silver bar.  Go visit the lowest 3 or 4 prices you get - (visit with empty pockets) just a get the feel of the place and see if you like who you'll be giving your money too.\n\nI should also say (since you asked), take it with you!  DO NOT pay for storage - its no good if you can't get to it when/if you need it.  Also, any fees over time will eat up some profit you will make if the price goes up, and it will add to the lose if the price goes down.\n\nIf its just an investment, buy in on a physical 'pool', like at kitco.com. Its about 1/3 the way down on this page:\nhttps://online.kitco.com/sellprice/selling.html  \nI only mention this as an option.  Personally, I would suggest getting physical if your interested in it.\n\nLast but not least - If you do decide to purchase some silver from a local coin shop - PAY IN CASH!!  No credit cards, no debit cards, no checks, no names, no nothing - just pay, say thanks and leave. \n\nGood luck!\n\nedited:\n"Nobody buys the actual metal as an investment anymore."\nNobody???  really???  Check E-bay - find a .999 silver "anything" that sells for less then spot price.  1000's of oz.'s per week are sold on E-bay at what I consider high prices, especially when you take shipping into consideration.
755887
merchindise and regular matchs
955671
I recommend you get the cheaper one. They are trying to steal money from people by labeling it "official" as a marketing technique.
432679
There is a description of the symbols and their meaning at the US Mint website, here:\n\nhttp://www.usmint.gov/mint_programs/50sq_program/states/index.cfm?state=NY
1130318
The cent, once a copper coin, is now composed of copper-plated zinc. Copper-plated cents cost less to manufacture, and at 2.5 grams each, they weigh about 20% less than the older cent, which was 95 percent copper and 5 percent zinc.\n\nSo there's not enough copper there to make it worth your while -- it will cost more to get the copper than the value of the metal, even at $4 per pound.
194984
Definetly check your local coin dealer or just pick one up on Ebay.
785149
It varies with the store.  Each store deposits their money differently.  Most major stores will deposit their money on the same day, meaning it gets posted the next business day or they deposit the money the following day, which makes the posting two days later.  Smaller retail stores post as little as once a week and then you will have to wait longer.  Although they say the process is faster, it almost always takes about the same amount of time as a regular check.
691360
http://www.strikefile.com\n\nit is easy to use just fill it out.
698859
Denver, Colorado   there are two mints in the US for legal tender.  Denver and Philadelphia.    all those coins by the "franklin mint" are worthless as money.
703460
Business involves the running of orgaization which produce product for profit.\n\nPublic involves the running of organizations (government, DMV, DOT, DCF, etc.)  that serve the public interest.  They are not run for profit.
232212
If a coin is flipped several times, you expect that it will turn heads half (.5) of the times and tails half (.5) of  the times. This expectation, is the same if you flip it only once, that is, there is a 50% chance it will be tails and 50% chance it will be heads (even though you'll either end up with 100% of the single flip being heads/tails and 0% being tails/heads.\n \nSo, supposing the bet is of $1.00 (i.e., you get to keep the coin if you win), you receive $1.00 if you call the out come correcetly and zero otherwise. The expected pay off of a flip is\n \nE[pay off] = $1.00*.5 + $0.00*.5 = $0.50\n \nNow, the "how much would you pay" question should be changed to "what is the most you can pay and still expect a profit". The expected profit is given by:\n \nE[profit] = expected pay off - amount payed to enter the bet\nE[profit] = E[pay off] - amount payed to enter the bet\nE[profit] = $0.50 - X\n \nIf you set the expected profit to be the least possible but still more than zero, E[profit] becomes $0.01 (one cent). Now you solve for X.\n \n0.01 <= 0.50 - X or X <= 0.49 (where <= should be read as less than or equal).\n\nNow it should be observed that this answers the question: "what is the most you can pay and still expect a profit?". The question "How much would you pay to enter this bet?", is far more comlex and depends on something called "risk preference".\n \nIf you are "indeferent to risk", the solution above is still correct but, if you are "averse to risk", you may prefer not to enter a game even if it has a positive expected profit. For examle, you may not be willing to pay 0.20 to enter this bet even though its expeceted profit is 0.30, because there is still a chance that you'll lose all of your 0.20 and have a profit of -0.20.\n \nOn the other hand, if you have an attraction to risk, you might pay 0.60 to enter the game and have an expected profit of -0.10 because you might make a profit of 0.40. (When you enter a bet at a cassino or lottery, the odds are always against you, i.e., your E[profit] < 0.)\n \nHope this helps.
650505
The small print can make a big difference.  The finance company through which the card is issued is more important to evaluate than the type of card itself.  I believe you have to evaluate the contract and READ IT for the charges and conditions.
1001934
Mark: \nMoney. Normally means the silver mark, a measure of silver, generally eight ounces, accepted throughout medieval western Europe. Although they were sometimes "clipped" or "debased," the English silver penny contained a standard weight of silver and so could be traded across Europe. In England the mark was worth thirteen shillings and four pence, ie. two thirds of £1. Equivalent to present value of the Euro.
309656
There has always been a market to mis-struck coins. There may be a local coin shop, that would be the best place to check.\nThose coins are also sold on www.ebay.com But you won't get the full value as you will sitting down with a real coin dealer.\nGOOD LUCK