I want to paint my aluminum boat, but I don't know how to prep the boat before I paint it. anyone know how?
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bmck has it right...prep work on any paint job is about 3x the actual paint time and the more the better...all loose paint must go; any place the aluminum is oxidizing ( loose grey powder, the alum. equivalent of rust) must go. Zinc chromate either in spray cans or quarts is the preferred  general purpose primer..\n\nPaints are usually made as a system, ie a finish coat is made to go with a specific primer. GO to marine store..or, if you are on fresh water and doing very limited use) a hardware store, and read the pant cans. Having spent 30 years reading Interlux and Pettit cans, I know there's a lot of information on the label.\n\nIf you are thinking of putting an anti-fouling paint on the boat you CAN NOT NOT NOT use copper based paints. The copper in salt water will eat the aluminum hull in no time....special paints are made for aluminum; once again read the cans.....THIS ALSO APPLIES TO OUTDRIVES AND OUTBOARD MOTORS, FOLKS..if you're in salt or even brackish water don't use copper anti fouling paint on your engine parts.you will quickly regret it
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No!  Powder Coating is electrolysis applied. The piece you are coating has a negative charge and the paint has a positive charge, it leaves little over spray, but must be baked after, The paint is vary hard and rust-proof.\nalso the process is expensive.\nThere is a spray can Epoxy paint,by Shermin-Williams, or use Hi temp engine paint, let it dry 24 hours before use.
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Here's how I've been cleaning my boards for 20+ years:\n\n1. Lie the board, wax up, in the sun. If it's a hot sunny day, around noon-ish, it should only take a few minutes to start melting. You'll know it's ready when the wax starts to glisten (yes, I know, people say you're not supposed to leave a surfboard in the sun, but we're only talking about a few minutes and, when compared to the amount of time it sits in the sun while you're actually out in the water surfing, that logic doesn't really add up).\n\n2. Take a wood or plastic spatula from your kitchen and start scraping the wax off in long, even strokes (you could use a wax comb, but most of them are way too small...it takes forever). Using a paper towel, remove the wax from the spatula and dump it in a trash bag. Repeat until you've got the bulk of the wax removed.\n\nIMPORTANT NOTE: Wax is gnarly stuff. If you get it on your patio or carpet, it will stain pretty much permanently once it melts. I suggest doing this on your lawn or laying down a large towel or drop cloth. Also, if it's not warm and sunny, you can use a blow dryer to soften up the wax. It's kind of a hassle, but it works.\n\n3. Using paint thinner, take a rag and wipe the entire board down (both sides). This will remove all the remaining wax, as well as any dirt or gunk on the board. Some companies sell a liquid they refer to as "wax remover" or "fire water" - it's all just paint thinner with better packaging and a bigger price tag.\n\n4. Rinse the board thoroughly with water. \n\nAd far as paddling out for the first time, you'll have all kinds of people give you all kinds of advice. 99% of it is worthless. \n\nAs long as you have a basic sense of how surfing works - paddling, catching a wave, jumping to your feet, etc. - you're pretty much ready to paddle out. No amount of advice, studying, or practice on the beach will help you ride that first wave. You just gotta keep trying until you get it. \n\nWith that said, a few suggestions to at least get you in a position to do that (and not die or kill anyone else in the process):\n\n1. Paddle out at a spot with the least amount of people you can find. Beginners are a hazard. Everytime you lose control of your board, you run the risk of tagging someone in the head. Very dangerous. \n\n2. BEFORE you paddle out, sit on the beach and watch for at least a half hour. Get a sense of where the waves are breaking, how often, and any other patterns you can pick up on. Do the other surfers in the water appear to be drifting in one direction or the other? If so, there's a current. Be aware of it. \n\n3. Use the lineups. In other words, as you're walking out into the ocean, pick a few landmarks on the beach and remember them. Then use those landmarks to gauge your location once in the water. They'll let you know if you're drifting, in which direction, and how quickly. \n\n4. Make sure your board is plenty big. The biggest mistake that 90% of beginners make is using a board that's too small. Get a big enough board and you might get up on your very first try. Get a board that's too small and it could be a YEAR before you stand up successfully. \n\n5. If possible, surf with a friend. The buddy system is tried and true. Better yet, get a friend who already knows how to surf. Don't force them to sit with you and watch you fall off 50 times in a row. Just having them in the vicinity can be helpful, especially if it gives you a chance to watch them surf. With a little luck, they'll paddle over from time to time and give you a few pointers. \n\n6. 90% of the time a beginner has blown the wave before he even attempts to stand up. This happens by either being too far back on the board (these are the guys you see paddling with the nose of the board sticking up in the air), in which case almost every wave will pass you by. Or by being too far forward on the board (these are
408690
Get it down to the bare metal by taking it to a shop that does glass beading.  This is very similar to sandblasting.\n\nApply a good primer.  Ideally, you can get access to a pneumatic gravity feed sprayer used on automive finishes.  This will produce a superior finish to the spray can.
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I painted a 14 foot duckboat to look like a marsh.  total cost of all the materials was under $25, and it's very realistic looking.  get a paint kit from cabela's (parkers, it has 6 cans of 4 different colors), and get one of those trigger handles that go on spray paint cans.  practice making patterns/stencils or whatever on a big piece of cardboard.  use real leaves or branches as a stencil.  you paint it green, then hold the leaf up there, then hit it with some grey.  instant leaf.  use your imagination for a pattern.
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if you go to http://fiberglassics.com, and ask this question in the forum, there are members there that will walk you through what you need to do.\n\nit is a free site, all's you have to do is reg. you email to post in the forum, please don't worry about spam from fiber, sandi and kelly (the owners)just don't play that game.\n\nthe last couple of years I have been restoring a 59 thunderbird and found the site very helpfull, heck don't let the name fool ya either, any boat owner is welcome rather it be a woodie, a clssic fiberglass, a lummie, or cement....as long as it gets wet.\n\nlook for me there under the still in use under thunderbird in the "to the boats" section.
168824
Use a good (!very! expensive) paint and brush, gentle strokes, temperature and humidity should be just right, read the paint label for details.
242213
Cool.\n\nUse the FOIL method. First, outside, inside, and last.
69838
Here is a "recipe" for gun bluing\n\nBlue-Black Finish on Steel\n \na. Place object in molten sodium nitrate (700-800 degrees F) for 2-3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool somewhat; wash in hot water; dry and oil with mineral or linseed oil. \n\nb. Place in following solution for 15 minutes:\nCopper sulphate 1/2 oz.\nIron Chloride 1 lb.\nHydrochloric acid 4 oz.\nNitric acid 1/2 oz.\nWater 1 gallon\nThen allow to dry for several hours; place in above solution again for 15 minutes; remove and dry for 10 hours. Place in boiling water for 1/2 hour; dry and scratch brush very lightly. Oil with mineral or linseed oil and wipe dry.
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take it from here \n\nhttp://www.freedownloadscenter.com/Web_Authoring/Java_Programming_Tools/Larry_s_ Paint.html
143201
your best way to go since the paint is already dry is to use Acetone. Make sure to remove the barell from the marker and use in a very well ventilated area. also as with Gasoline, paint thinner, mineral spirits and also acetone they are ALL EXTREMELY FLAMABLE, and you should use caution when working with any of them. Make sure you clean the barell afterwords to remove any residual chemical on it. ANY paint removing chemical will damage the inside of your marker, O rings will disolve as will you seels.\n\nAlso if you really want the barrel to look great you can send the whole thing, marker and barrel to get anodized in whatever color you want. usually costs around 80-100 dollars.
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There may be pro shops willing to do it.  Otherwise, you might see if you can make your own stencil and paint it.  Not sure how to advise you on how to paint it though.  I wouldn't use house paint.
376975
what kind of expirience on aluminium you want?...
228679
http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/Boat%20Plans/boat_plans.htm   Maybe this will help you
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1. Get some wood, nails, screws, wood glue.\n2. Draw a scale design of the boat on a piece of paper.\n3. Cut up the........
782428
Have it made at an upholstery shop or where the make boat covers.\nTry a Sunbrella Dealer.
217585
nothing before use but after u need to clean it and flush the motor with fresh water to prevent corrosion