How does an eraser work?
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Eraser is just a soft rubber abrasive, which gently scrubs the top layer of paper, removing a little of paper together with graphite particles. Clumps of used rubber, mixed with paper and graphite are produced, as you probably have noticed.
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I heard that solvent vapours such as cellulose thinners can loosen the ink but I would doubt it would leave it clean (like say you would require if you were forging something!).\n\nOn a school report I would suggest crossing it out neatly and writing the correct thing ... if you are trying to alter something them you probably have a problem as even ink erasers leave a trace.\n\nLike they say with cleaning products ... try on a sample first.
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Terminator (I & II) and Eraser.
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Check http://www.howstuffworks.com\nUltimate guide!
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its so the pressure in the pen, when the ink leaves, when you write, is equal to the outside pressure. ink can still flow with gravity, otherwise a partial vacuum would form
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If you have two magnetic rings (that have two opposite sides) you put them through a straw. One ring levatates above the other because of the force that pulls them apart. It's kind of hard to explain. I hope this makes sense.
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Well, throughout my lifetime, I've learned one thing.  Scantron tests\nare a bitch.  So this text will hopefully help you out.  I'd like to point\nout that the results that the methods and results I write about came from\nACTUAL experiments with ACTUAL Scantrons and Scanning Machines.  I spent a\nlong time working these out.  I have tried virtually everything there is\nto try to beat the scantron machine, and I can happily say that it can be\ndone.  Now, I am not endorsing that you use these methods to get the first\nletter of the alphabet on your report card.  These are for informational\nand entertainment purposes only.  If you do use these methods, I, of\ncourse, am not at all responsible and blah blah blah.\n   I would like to thank someone that was essential to making this file\npossible, but I doubt that he would want to be identified.  He was one of\nmy teachers.  That's as far as I'll go with that.\n   Now on to the good stuff...\n\n1.  Marking the black lines (Black on Black method)-\n   On the left side of most scantrons that I know of, there are black\nlines next to question numbers.  My hypothesis is that these black lines\ntell the machine where to scan.  I don't know how it works, but it does,\nbut not as often to create a great advantage.  It works about  25%-30% of\nthe time.  I suppose coupled with actual guessing, this does add to the\nprobability of getting a correct answer.  This is my recommended hack.\nThis is the hack that will work more often than any other.  Do it only on\nthe ones you can't answer.\n\n2.  Erasing the same black lines (Erasure method)-\n   Now this hack is pretty self-explanatory.  You erase those same black\nlines, only on the ones you can't answer though.  Sometimes the machine\nskips the question and doesn't mark it at all.  This leaves you with a\ncorrect answer.\n-OR-\n   The machine will record an error and not mark the paper at all,\nincluding the score.  This will then allow the teacher to grade it by\nhand, where he or she may notice the tampering.\n\n3.  Erasing the big black block (Big block eradication method)-\n   Along the left side is a big black block.  It is on the upper part of\nthe column before the question lines.  Occasionally, the machine will just\nskip over the whole damn thing but leave you with a 100%.  This is\npractically impossible to get to work.  I have gotten it to work twice out\nof hundreds of trials, but it can be done.  My reasoning for this is\nbecause there is another similar block at the bottom of the column.  I\nbelieve that the big block tells the machine when to begin scanning for\nquestions.  I think that variations in the printing of scantrons probably\nproduce a block on the bottom similar enough to the erased block.   Thus,\nthe machine sees the block begins scanning, sees nothing to correct and\ngives you a 100%.  Like I said this is probably less than 1% success, but\nit can work.\n\n4.  Cutting out that big block (Hole in your head method)-\n   I have had more success with this than erasing for some reason.  Again\nthis is an all or nothing proposition.  If you like gambling, go ahead.\nRemember that you will leave more noticable physical evidence.\n\n5.  Cross-hatching fill-ins (Cross method)-\n   This method works about 20%-25% of the time.  I believe it is pretty\nself-explanatory.  I find that the best patterns are diaganol\ncross-hatches, or horizontal lines.  I can't explain why this works, I\nassume you are simply confusing the machine.\n\n6.  In-between shading (Grey areas method)-\n   By in-between shading, I mean finding a level of grey that is not too\ndark or too light.  I believe this will work because of the same reason as\n#5.\n\n8.  YOU FILL IN THE CORRECT ANSWER!\n\n*******ADDED SINCE LAST POSTING OF THIS DOCUMENT*********\n\n9.  According to Anthony Iannone <aiannone@maple.nis.net>...\n    This person states that he has worked on maintenance of those\nwonderful machines that COR
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yes, they use magnetic fields.  3m appears to not publicize how the technology works (presumably for good reason, if it was well understood then it would be easy to defeat!)\n\nanyway i found a patent for a detection system that has some background that explains how they work.  basically they are a sandwich of 2 kinds of material.  one is a permanently magnetic material, and the other is a permanently-magnetizable material.  the poles of the two materials are oriented in opposite directions.  when you bring the magnetizable material near a strong magnet, it is magnetized, and the magnetic fields cancel out.\nthis allows them to pass through a detector without setting it off.  then when they are returned, they are exposed to a field that orients the magnetizable material the other way, which makes the fields add up into a strong magnetic field. this makes them set off the detector when you walk through it.\n\nmore info at the link below, which is not a patent for tattle-tape, but a patent for some kind of sensitizing/desensitizing system for tattle-tape:\nhttp://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=/netahtml/search-bool.html&r=1&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=ptxt&s1='tattle+tape'&OS=%22tattle+tape%22&RS=%22tattle+tape%22
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Computer disks store data as reversals of magnetic field in the coatings on the disk.  It's like a tape recording laid out on a flat surface.\n\nTherefore, a magnet can flip the field and erase the data.
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The 'How Stuff Works' website has a really good explanation.  You can find it at http://home.howstuffworks.com/question420.htm
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GET AN ERASER AND A LITTLE DUSTER FRIST ERASE ALL THE DUST OF AND DIRT THEN JUST DUST IT OFF WORKS 4 ME
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step 1-look at picture\nstep 2-touch pencil\nstep 3-pick up pencil\nstep 4-draw shoe\nstep 5-suddenly u find out that you just drew on the table.\nstep 6-say, "Oh my gosh!" or "Oh s***!" or other things\nstep 7-get paper\nstep 8-then touch pencil again\nstep 9-pick it up\nstep 10-start to touch the paper with pencil's lead\nstep 11-move your pencil to where you want it to go woth your hand.\nstep 12-you messed up. Repeat step 6.\nstep 13-touch eraser\nstep 14-pick it up\nstep 15-touch paper w/ eraser\nstep 16-you rub the eraser on the place where you messed up by looking w/ your eyes.\nstep 17-repeat steps 8-17.\nstep 18-give up.
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You have a chamber filled with ink that opens up to a little ball at the tip, and opens up to air on the other side. Well, the ball is tightly trapped into the tip of the pen, and the ball itself is what you write with. When you roll the pen across the surface of your paper (or other surface), the ball rolls. It catches ink from the chamber and thus gradually coats itself. Then, as you slide it around, the ink rubs off the ball onto your paper. Pretty ingenious, eh?
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It cannot be erased.  The toner (it is not ink) is made of plastic particles bonded to iron particles (just like those used in photocopiers).  Upon printing, this is heat fused unto the paper.\n\nReprint the page.
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I'm going to go the extra mile, first destroy any data on the hard drive by wiping it with a utility, I like Eraser 5.7, http://www.download.com/Eraser/3000-2092_4-10231813.html some have said burning it, sadly, burning the drive will not destroy the data.  Any data restoration firm will simply replace the control board, make any repairs necessary to the read write heads and if your data has not been wiped from the drive, they will be able to recover ~98% of the data that was on it.\n\nMoving on, after you have wiped the drive using a utility, get yourself a drill, and drill holes in the drive, no particular pattern, you just want to break it to a point where the platters themselves are damaged and the read/write heads can't make sense of what to do.  Damaging the controller board doesn't make sense because those are easily replaced, heck, I've done that.\n\nHousehold magnets won't do the trick either.  You'd need an industrial strenght powered magnet to do any damage to the drive.  If you want to destroy your drive, follow my instructions and no one will be able to access your data.  Even the FBI would have issues with it.  The thing is, you can damage the control board, you can damage the read/write heads but if you don't damage the platters themselves then anyone (okay not anyone) but some would still be able to access your data.\n\nThe platters can be removed from a drive, popped into a working hard drive and voila, whadya know, the data can be read by any old working hard drive.  I've done that too.  You have to physically wipe the data (okay you get my meaning) before damaging the drive with tools.  If the data is still there, people like me, heck, your mom and pop PC shop and of course, hackers could still access the data.
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Get a file shredder such as Tracks Eraser Pro. It is capable of overwriting a file several times, so that it is TRULY gone.\n\nTo to http://www.download.com and try the trial version.  Just do a search for tracks eraser
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you need a graphix program like adobe or paintshop pro, cut the head out with the lasso tool, and paste it as  a new layer on the other picture, use the eraser to clean up