how do i get rid of oxide (rust)  stains on my steel surgery instruments?
535429
Go to Home Depot and buy an all purpose rust remover. I used it on a dissecting knife and it worked beautifully.
314012
Use Acetone\n\n Nail Polish Remover
87444
squeeze some lemon juice (the natural one right from a real fresh lemon) and rub some salt into it and leave it for a few minutes in the sun. Then wash it off with warm water.\n\nThis only works if you haven't yet used any detergent on the stain, of course.
845977
NEVER use Pledge or furniture polish. They contain silicones which will contaminate a guitar finish.\n\nInstead, use lemon oil..not lemon oil Pledge... and clean with a soft towel. This will clean the fingerboard and preserve the wood.\n\nIf you have a maple fingerboard- one that has a finish on it- forget it. The finish is wearing off and the stain is permanent.
837948
Articles from the HTPAA Quarterly Publication - Tool Chest  \n\nFeatured Article on Rust Removal\nPart 1 - Electrolysis\nHome  \nElectrolytic Removal of Rust \n\nby Kevin Chamberlain, Member HTPAA ( published in Tool Chest #63, February 2002) \n\nIntroduction \n\nAt our last Tool Conference, there was a Panel Discussion dealing with the cleaning and restoration of old hand tools. This is a key concern for anyone interested in collecting old tools, since one rarely finds tools in mint condition in an original box. It is much more common to find tools showing the combined effects of correct usage, abuse, neglect and simple ageing. The primary question is: should cleaning and/or restoration be attempted at all?\n\nThe answers are conflicting; some aim to restore the tool to a brand-new appearance, eliminating all evidence of its life history. Others think any attempt at restoration will destroy the character and value of an antique tool. \n\nMost think some intervention is desirable to remedy the effects of abuse and neglect, while still retraining as much patina and character as possible. There is an important caveat - "when in doubt, do nothing". Cleaning and restoration of antique tools should be done in a careful and meditative mood - otherwise rash actions may cause loss of valuable information and/or further damage. \n\nRemoval of rust from old tools or other artefacts may or may not be a desirable goal. In some cases (museum specimens) stabilization to prevent further deterioration may be all that is necessary. Rust may be regarded as undesirable by tool users or collectors because it obscures identifying marks, causes seizure of moving parts, creates an unpleasant rough texture to the touch, stains the hands and/or the workpiece, or is simply unsightly. I believe rust removal is often justified, but the method chosen should not alter the surface in other ways and should result in a reasonably attractive surface appearance.\n\nThe electrolytic method of rust removal meets these aims very well and is also a gentle, cheap and adaptable method. Electrolysis is now being used by a wide range of artefact restorers, from tool collectors to marine archaeologists. \n\nIn this article, I mainly aim to outline the practical aspects of the electrolytic method so that members can try it for themselves. Several HTPAA members have been using the method for some years and find it very useful\n\nWhat is Rust? \nRust arises from the surface oxidation of iron or steel in the presence of atmospheric oxygen and moisture. As the rust forms, the surface of the iron is eaten away, sometimes evenly, but often deep local pitting occurs beneath wart-like protuberances. Rust occupies more volume than the iron it replaces, and so moving parts will tend to seize as they rust. \nChemically, most red rust is hydrous ferric oxide FeO(OH). If water enters this chemical structure, yellow-brown limonite may form FeO(OH).nH2O. Quite often, black iron oxides are also present usually magnetite (Fe3O4), an iron oxide which both conducts electricity and can be magnetised. The rusting process, and the conditions which promote, inhibit or stabilise it, are all important topics which are beyond the limits of the present article. \n\nMethods of Rust Removal\nRust usually binds strongly to the underlying iron or steel. Various methods have been used to remove rust. Mechanical methods include the use of emery paper, sandpaper or wire brushes (either manual or powered). More aggressive methods include sand blasting or shot blasting. Plastic bead blasting is a more recent and gentler variant. Clearly these methods will scratch the metal surface if the abrasives are harder than the metal. Wire brushes, for example, do not appear to scratch hard steel surfaces but they can be quite damaging to soft iron surfaces. \n\nGas flames are sometimes used to dislodge rust, relying on the different expansion rates of the oxides and the metal in response to heat. Simple bo
292798
Probably best to send to a specialist cleaner.  Water & leather cleaners leave tide marks.
157271
You can use the valve oil and grease. You can occasionally run warm soapy water through it (being sure to rinse it all out). Do not dry it with anything abrasive. Most trumpet metal is very easily scraped. Please note :Paper towels are abrasive.
1105614
Fitz makes a good polish as does brasso.\nTry a clear coat of urethane or lacquer after polishing.  It won't last forever but keeps you from polishing all the time.
107822
Hydrogen peroxide will do the trick! Use a Q-tip and dab it on to remove the majority of blood. Cold water works well too. And last but not least, wash it as usual, not throwing it into the dryer until the spot is gone (may need to wash 2x).
1020342
you could try  a fine steelwool, i would start with 0000 and work your way up to larger grades as needed but this will remove the blueing. if the pitting is only minor i would use a soft scotchbrite pad and a light oil such as 3 in 1 oil . rub lightly, this should remove the rust with minamal damage to the finish,remove the oil with a soapy rag ,rinse with a clean rag ,let dry then touch up with a blueing pen or luiquid blue and a cotton swuab.
486201
For badly stained clothes I use Oxyclean; you may have to soak the garment for several days in a stronger than recommended solution.
442899
Manganese and manganese dioxide. Also potassium iodide does a good job.
27865
Wipe them down with rubbing alcohol. I did that with a pair of work boots to take out the shine because of the nicks & deep scratches the boots would get, the shine just made them stand out more. Now, I have the foot part dull black, but kept the shanks shiny.
71181
to prevent rust/oxidation
905880
Use carpet cleaner or Resolve stain remover and take 2 aspirin and drink a V8 or tomato juice
527880
Use an eraser.It will take off tarnish and makes copper shine like new.For silver coins...Boil water in an aluminum pan ,add coins then add baking soda and remove from heat.Baking soda will cause a reaction and instantly clean the silver.Just rub w/ clean cloth afterwards.
25132
If you want to identify brass versus gold, try using some ammonia solution or vinegar on the metal. Brass has oxides which will be dissolved and the brass will come out much brighter. Gold does not oxidize and will not react. Highly polished brass will not have an oxide coat to remove, so you can test it by immersing it in a solution with 2/3 vinegar and 1/3 hydrogen peroxide solution, and leave it for more than fifteen minutes. If it is brass and not gold, the solution will begin to turn green as the copper in the brass begins to dissolve. Again, gold will not react.