how much pressure should I put in my tires on a treck mountain bike?
440694
It depends on conditions. On soft, muddy trails you might need to go as low as 20 psig.  On hard-packed dirt,  you might go 50 or 55.  It also depends on the tire width.  If it's only 1.5" wide, you have to go higher than if the tire is 2.3".  Also remember, low pressure equals more grip in the soft stuff, but more flats on the rocky ground.   In a nutshell, tire pressure should be adjusted based on conditions.
331105
Personally I would go with the 40c tires. But!!...that's me.  I use the fattest tires I can when off road no matter the trip or whatever. More tire to use,raise and lower tire pressure without pinch flats. I think the fatter tires take more of the dirt road abuse factor out of the ride also. With the tire sizes so close it would only make sense to go with the wider of the two. I wouldn't even notice the difference in effort pedaling on the road between the two I don't think, but would for sure feel the skinnier tire sink into the dirt. Good Luck and have fun
1137640
For a road bike, look at something in the range of 56cm to 58cm.  For a mtn bike, look at something in the range of 16.5 in to 18 in.
482063
Use the bike that fits.  I would be inclined to set the pre-load on the suspension fork pretty high to minimize bounce while standing and climbing.  The only other disadvantage is the weight, but fit is definitely more important than weight.
1037503
Check out this photo for proper chain configuration-\n\nhttp://152.10.254.216/images/Shimano_XTR_derailleur0_DSC.jpg
313950
As much horsepower and torque as you can afford, use a longbed frame/body, and move the rear end back next to the bumper--use a tall rearend 5:13-6:50 and a six-gear automatic manually shifted--Good luck!!!
969640
I think you should be able to use any tire that has the 700c measurement. The 38 is more about your personal preference, that describes how fat the tire is. So, technically you could probably put a 700 x 23 tire on your bike, but that would be a really small racing tire. It would roll faster, but because it's smaller, but you'd have to be more aware of rolling over cracks in the road, etc.\n\nThe only thing you have to be aware of is getting a tire that too big. Without seeing your frame, I can't be specific, but if you go bigger than what you know already works (700 x 38) you do run the risk of the larger tires rubbing against your frame, or the inside of your brake calipers.
1058048
Sounds like you've got a poorly designed or badly set up saddle. If you and the saddle are properly matched there should be very little movement at all the contact surfaces. This is important to prevent soreness and chafing. \n\nTry adjusting the position of your saddle, not so much to reduce wear and tear on your clothes - more importantly, to improve ride comfort and the wear factor on you!\n\nThere are some simple rules that usually work: \n\n1 Saddle height: Get someone to hold the bike upright while you sit on it. Position the lower pedal crank so it is parallel with your down tube (seat tube). Now put your HEEL on the pedal. Your knee should be comfortably straight, not bent and you should not feel like you're stretching to reach the pedal. When you have this right, place the ball of your foot on the pedal (normal placement) and you'll find your knee is slightly bent. This is the optimal ride height and makes a BIG difference to overall ride comfort.\n\n2 Saddle - handlebars reach: This is difficult to be precise about, but for most road and mountain bikes a good starting point is to set the nose of the saddle so that when you put your elbow on the front of the saddle's nose your finger tips can touch the top of the steerer post.\n\n3 Saddle angle: Start with the saddle top surface parallel to the floor. Now, having made the two adjustments above, ride the bike and concentrate on where you can 'feel' the saddle. If you can feel the nose you need to tip it down just a fraction (this is commonly the case). \n\n4 Lateral angle: This one may seem silly, but check that your saddle is aligned laterally to your top tube. Start with this perfect. Ride around and check if you can feel any pressure points on one side rather than the other. This will be because of the idiosyncracies of your own sitting position. If so, make tiny adjustments of the saddle to left or right away from the point of pressure.\n\nDo all the above subtly and carefully and you should end up with a very comfy (non-clothes wrecking) ride. If none of the above work you need to change your saddle.\n\nA tip from long experience: Don't use a gel saddle. Surprisingly a hard leather saddle usually works best long term (I strongly recommend Brookes). These saddles are painful for about a hundred miles after you've got them properly fitted as above, then increasingly they become lovely to ride and over many years they just get ever more comfy - why? The hard leather remoulds itself to your anatomy and has just the right amount of give to adjust for your movements. They look cool too!\n\nFinally: Wear dedicated cycling gear. It makes a big difference too.
412824
Keep your upper body stable (no rocking)\nMaintain a high cadence (pedal revs of 80rpm)\nBreathe\n\nIf you are wanting on the bike strength training, ride up hills in a big gear (rpm 50-60), but limit it to about 1k per session. It will help with your general hill climbing ability.\n\nCheers :)
247823
I would have to agree that you should not go with any large travel shocks unless you are doing downhill, however, if you have the dough to get good components and rear suspension, go for it. The technology has changed drastically in the last few years and now most good CC and trail bikes perform just as well as a hardtail on the climbs, but will be much quicker and smoother through the rough sections. New air shocks are the way to go since they are substancially lighter than coil-over, plus they have great configurability (travel, rebound etc.) and coupled with 4-bar and virtual pivot technologies, among others, these shocks virtually eliminate pedal bob(loss of power to wheels through shocks). Even on higher end shocks something called stable platform valving is applied which basically  at which locks out the shock  until there is enough upward force (from the ground) to open it and give you the travel. The best part about this is you set how much force it takes to open it. There are a ton of new features and technologies coming out now so really chech out as many companies as possible if you are buying a new bike. Consider what type of riding your gonna be doing and choose the qulaity and travel of the shock form there. Some good shock companies to check out are fox, manitou and rockshox. Good luck and happy trails!
655578
Installing a new headset is something best left to a bike shop. To do this well, without potentially damaging the headset and the frame you need a headset press.  Installing a new fork isn't so hard once the headset is in place (just remember to remove the lower (crown race) part of the headset from the old fork and put it on your new one.  You'll also need a new star nut (the thing that pushes down inside the steer-tube of the new fork). A saw that cuts metal is also a necessity because the steer-tube on your new fork will be way too long when you get it.\n\nThe spacers are used to fill the gap between the headset and the stem, they are essential because an aheadset works on compression.  Without the spacers, the fork will slide up and down in the head tube. How many spacers you need depends on how high you want your handlebars.\n\nIf all of this is confusing to you, take the bike to your LBS (local bike shop) to get the work done and ask if you can watch while the mechanic does it.  Feeling more adventurous? Try getting a mountain bike maintenance book and see if you can figure it out for yourself, but I do emphasize that if you are installing a new headset on a frame it's better left to the LBS.
442788
Your going to need at least 400 hp to make that happen. Assuming you had right at 400, you ET would be 12.44 with a 109.5 trap speed. I would build a 383 stroker out of it.
405618
the tire pump valve fits so tight over the nozzle and combine with push air in keeps air from escaping. also, air wil;l not come out of a tire ( unless a leak) unless you twist the nozzle to make it come out
691591
This all depends on the type of valve that you have.  There are two types of valves that you will find on a bicycle tire: schrader or presta.  The Schrader valves (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve) are like the one you see on your car.  A presta valve (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve) is more narrow and are seen usually on road bikes with more aerodynamic rims.  Most pumps will handle the Schrader valves without any issues (including your gas station).  For presta valves, some pumps will accommodate them.  For those that won't, you can buy an inexpensive adapter at a local bike shop to place on the presta valve and use a standard pump (similar to this http://www.rei.com/product/27860.htm).  I always carry one of these adapters with my when I ride, in case I need to pull over at a gas station for air. You might be careful about how much pressure you put into a bike tire.  Different tires will support different pressures.  Too little pressure and you are opening yourself up for pinch flats.  Too much pressure and you could blow the tube or have a few uncomfortable ride.  Usually, anywhere between 90-110 is about average.
731275
Just set it to field altitude when on ground. Then compare bar pressure reading on alttimeter to current pressure from weather station. If they are the same you areOK
889884
The pressure in an aircraft tire is typically in the range of 180 to 250 psi depending on model and the CBR (California Bearing Ratio) of the intended runway.  The atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi.\nSo, if those tires were put in space, they would feel pressure of 195 to 265 psi, about 6 to 8% change.  Nothing to worry about, the pressure gets much higher only from the heat of the braking when back on the ground.  And it is cold in space with the wheels inside in the shadow of the landing gear bay, so the pressure gets actually lower in space.
472691
There should be a barrel adjuster on your rear derailleur near the cable anchor bolt. You can either increase or decrease the cable tension as necessary by turning it incrementally. \n\nIf your chain seems to want to shift past the cog that you're shifting to, then your cable tension is too high. If it's not quite making it to the cog, then your cable tension is too low.