Has anybody heard of Polish Golf? If you have how do you make it? All I know is that it's made out of PVC pipe
438005
you are correct... \nit is 3 feet tall, with bars at ever 12 inches (across) and three feet across.  The golf balls have an 18 inch piece of rope between them.\n\nThe pipe I used was 3/4 inch, which I purchased at my local lumber yard.  The golf balls I used a drill press to put holes through, then twisted some nylon rope through the holes, and burned the end when it came through.  If you get rope that fits tightly enough, this will be good enough to keep the rope in place.  You can also use some epoxy if you want some insurance.\n\nLet me know if this helps, or if you want add'l details.  It i a fun game!
283224
I find most hula hoops bend into uselessness quickly. The best hoops are ones made from connecting ends of PVC. If you choose this method of construction, you could fill the pipe with lead beads or some other weight to your specifications.
375963
Check out some of these titles by David Leadbetter:\n\nhttp://www.shopzilla.com/8B--Golf_Gifts_Equipment_-_cat_id--12070300__keyword--david%20leadbetter%20golf%20video__kw--david%20leadbetter%20golf%20video__mkt_id--45231769__qcid--951802835162
494851
Yeah, that's part of the design of the irons, supposed to make them more forgiving. See here for info:\n\nhttp://www.golfdigest.com/hotlist
702796
I am a golf pro and I have the pleasure of trying alot of equipment.\n\nTrust me when I say this, the Nike SQ 3 wood off the deck is the straightest 3 wood on the market.  Comes out a little low and HOT.  The 5 wood is only 3 degrees different if you want something higher, almost the same distance.  \n\nThose rescues are not the best off the deck, but you will find them better than a 3 wood out of the junk or a fairway bunker.\n\nLets have a game sometime at Bushwood with Doctor Beeper!
1106364
how is this a golf question?
204510
Hi Ron~\n\nIt's your lucky day. I happen to work for adidas Golf apparel and we recently purchased Reebok. Reebok is no longer operating a golf division, with the exception of apparel sold under the "Greg Norman Collection" brand. Although we will continue to sell and market shoes and apparel under the Reebok brand name, for the time being all golf footwear will be created under the adidas umbrella. I highly recomend you try our footwear out; as a 3 handicap and a lifetime golfer I can honestly tell you we make the most comfortable high performance golf shoes in the industry.\nBelow is a link to our online store.\n\nThanks and good luck on the links!
219415
If you really want to have it done right send it to the GolfWorks to have it refinished. \n\nhttp://www.golfworks.com/product.asp?pn=IREFINISHING
245113
It is true that temperature will affect the distance of a golf ball. However, without knowing the exact composition or performing controlled experiments, it would be difficult to give an exact answer. \n\nBelow is a link to perform such an experiment. Measure the ball's rebound ability for 2 different temperature of balls, and you will get a good approximation of a percentage.\n\n**UPDATE**\n\nAs per your update, more information would be needed than just temperature to do this calculation, as humidity, atmospheric pressure, and type of clubs would have as much or more involvement than temperature.  I've included a couple new links that show some of the differences in ball flight vs. temperature, of particular note would be the last link, which has a calculator for your exact problem.
503168
Nike didn't make a liquid center ball, and didn't make balls 25 years ago.  Someone could have put a mark on it to look like the swoosh, so there you go.\n\nI wouldn't play with it anyway - while it was high technology at the time, all the good qualities of the ball have probably been aged out of the ball for 23.5 years or so.\n\nActually, one other possibility - if you find a ball in a pond where it's been submerged for a couple of weeks, it starts to look very old. So it is possible to have a 25 year old looking Nike One golf ball.  Still wouldn't have a liquid center - how do you know it has one?
162273
There is one company that guarantees tee times on the old course....\n\nKeith Prowse Ltd. Old Course Experience....it's very pricey, but you'll have a time for sure.
1007985
funny you should say, I really thought I was the only one left, having bought them as my first real set and have never bothered to change. Mine have stiff trutemper shafts and play great, though I dont. They are not easy clubs to play, but can be played very well (my lesson pro did and loved them) and provide a lot of control if you're good, so I am told. I have grown to love them
255508
There is one company that guarantees tee times on the old course....\n\nKeith Prowse Ltd. Old Course Experience....it's very pricey, but you'll have a time for sure. \n\nhttp://www.oldcourse-experience.com/data/aboutus/aboutus.htm\n\nHave fun!!
949362
Go to: http://www.golfjoy.com/golf_physics/specs.asp\n\nAlso go to: http://golf.about.com/od/faqs/f/clublengths.htm\n\nAnd: http://golf.about.com/od/faqs/a/golf_clubs_faq.htm\n\nAnd: http://www.usga.org/playing/rules/books/rules/appendix_II.html\n\nRaw Materials\nGolf clubs are manufactured from a wide variety of materials, including metals, plastics, ceramics, composites, wood, and others. Different materials are chosen for different parts of the club based on their mechanical properties, such as strength, elasticity, formability, impact resistance, friction, damping, density, and others.\n\nClub heads for drivers and other woods may be made from stainless steel, titanium, or graphite fiber-reinforced epoxy. Face inserts may be made from zirconia ceramic or a titanium metal matrix ceramic composite. Oversize metal woods are usually filled with synthetic polymer foam. Traditionalists can even buy woods that are made of real wood. Persimmon, laminated maple, and a host of exotic woods are used. Wood club heads are usually soaked in preserving oil or coated with a synthetic finish like polyurethane to protect them from moisture.\n\nClub heads for irons and wedges may be made from chrome-plated steel, stainless steel, titanium, tungsten, beryllium nickel, beryllium copper, or combinations of these metals. Heads for putters may be made of all of the same materials as irons, plus softer materials like aluminum or bronze, because the velocity of impact is much slower when putting.\n\nClub shafts may be made from chrome-plated steel, stainless steel, aluminum, carbon or graphite fiber-reinforced epoxy, boron fiber-reinforced epoxy, or titanium. Grips are usually made from molded synthetic rubber or wrapped leather.\n\nDesign\nThe rules of the United States Golf Association (USGA) have only a few brief paragraphs regarding the design of golf clubs. There are no restrictions on weight or materials, and only a few restrictions on dimensions. Shafts must be at least 18 in (457 mm) long. The distance from the heel to the toe of the head must be greater than the distance from the face to the back of the head. The cross-sectional dimension of the grip must not be greater than 1.75 in (45 mm) in any direction. Of all the rules, however, the most important one requires that the club ''shall not be substantially different from the traditional and customary form and make."\n\nIt is this last rule that sometimes gives club designers the fits. It means, for example, that club heads may not have features like aiming fins or holes to reduce aerodynamic drag. Shafts may not have flexible joints, and so forth. In short, anything that is not "traditional and customary" is not allowed. All new club designs must be submitted to the USGA for review and approval before they may be used in tournament play.\n\nWithin the USGA guidelines, many new features have been incorporated into golf clubs. Using computer-aided design programs and mathematical models of club and ball dynamics, designers have learned to utilize new materials, redistribute weight, and alter the general shape of the club in an attempt to help both professional golfers and weekend duffers improve their games.\n\nOne common feature of modern irons is perimeter weighting, which places most of the club head weight around the edges, leaving the center with less material. This added mass reduces the amount of club twist when the ball is struck towards the edge of the club, rather than in the center. The effect is to increase the size of the effective hitting area, or the "sweet spot" as golfers call it. The hollow oversize metal heads on some drivers have the same effect.\n\nAnother design feature of some modern clubs is the offset head, where the striking face is located to the rear of the centerline of the shaft. This places the golfer's hands slightly ahead of the ball at impact, which tends to square the club face and give better direction control.\n\nOth
341397
Asked and answered many times my man....see here:\n\nhttp://answers.yahoo.com/search/search_result;_ylt=AlyceLVF1Z0Z0kyra7w9MWLzy6IX?p=golf+fore
711502
sure all the way back, i will give u 3 a side. Automatic press if u get 3 down. press anytime if u are behind. either party can press for the hole and the hole only at anytime the opponents tee shot is in the air. be it going out of bounds, woods, water or fairway. trash talk is acceptable. My "hanicap" is plus 2.7 on a 119 slope rated course 6500 back tees. built in 1937. with postage stamp greens. let me know ok?
786392
Which Type of Club Shaft Best Suits Your Game?\nShould you go with steel shafts or graphite shafts? What are the differences between the two? Is one type of shaft better for you than another?\n\nThese are questions that many newcomers to golf - and even many golfers who have played for years - have in mind when they go shopping for a new set of clubs.\n\nIn the "old days," the general feeling was that recreational golfers, mid- and high-handicappers, should use graphite, while the better players, low-handicappers, would stick with steel. That's not necessarily true anymore, however. Even PGA Tour golfers can be seen using graphite shafts. In 2004, Tiger Woods switched from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft in his driver (most pros made that switch even earlier).\n\nAs with every type of golf equipment, the key is to try out both kinds and determine which type best fits your swing. \n\nBut there are differences between steel and graphite that could help you choose one over the other.\nSome Keypoints\n• Steel shafts are less expensive than graphite, so the same set of clubs will cost less with steel shafts than with graphite shafts.\n\n• Steel shafts were once considered much more durable than graphite. That's not so much the case anymore. Quality graphite shafts will last as long as you do so long as they are not chipped, cracked, or the laminate-seal is not peeling. Steel shafts will last forever so long as they are not bent, rusted or pitted.\n\n• Graphite shafts transmit fewer vibrations up the shaft to the golfer's hands than do steel shafts. This might be good or bad, depending on your skill and your desire. You might want that added feedback that steel shafts offer - or you might be tired of your hands stinging so much on mis-hit shots.\n\nThe Most Important Point\nThe biggest and by far most important difference between steel and graphite shafts is this: graphite shafts are lighter than steel shafts. So clubs that have graphite shafts will be lighter than otherwise identical clubs that have steel shafts.\n\nAccording to clubmaking and equipment guru Tom Wishon, the difference in weight between graphite shafts and steel shafts will translate, for most golfers, into an additional 2-4 mph of swing speed with graphite. And that could mean an extra 6-12 yards of distance with a graphite shaft, compared to a steel shaft.\n\nThat's why, in the everpresent quest for more yards, more and more golfers prefer graphite shafts.\n\nWhat It All Means\nYou probably want more yards, too. So it's obvious: You should choose graphite shafts, right? Probably, but not necessarily.\n\nAs we said, the majority of golfers these days are going to graphite, at least in their woods, but steel shafts maintain a very strong presence in golf, especially among low-handicappers and scratch players.\n\nIn many cases, those are golfers who don't need the extra boost of swing speed that graphite shafts can provide. Players who prefer steel shafts often make that choice because their heavier weight provides the golfer with a feeling of more control over the clubhead during the swing. And these are players who can analyze and benefit from the added feedback (more vibrations traveling up the shaft) that steel provides.\n\nWe'll quote Tom Wishon: "If gaining more distance is a primary goal for the golfer, they should definitely be fit with the proper graphite shaft design in their woods and irons to match their swing. On the other hand, if distance is not the main focus for the golfer because they already have a high swing speed, if they like the feel of steel and their swing tempo matches a little better to the higher total weight steel shafts bring to the clubs, then steel is the better option."\n\nAnd we'll add that anyone who is not physically strong, or has physical problems in their hands, forearms or shoulders that are exacerbated by the bad vibes of a mis-hit shot, should go with graphite.\n\n\n