How do I heat treat ASTM A-36 STEEL?
438539
You should find that under the ASTM Manual for steel. Your engineering department should have a copy, otherwise try finding it on line.
1050579
The technique is called Post Weld Heat Treatment (PWHT for short). \n\nAdam the Engineer has got it wrong (sorry Adam) and BikerwookieJim has got it almost right.\n\nThe only flaw in his answer is that you CAN rework a piece after PWHT, but you have to repeat the PWHT after the rework. The cost of doing PWHT is high and can be very high for large pieces (like in ship building), so you try to do it only once.\n\nPieces that have undergone PWHT are usually marked as such so that nobody does any rework which (as BikerwookieJim said) would leave a week point prone to failure.
642448
If the brass is 'half-hard', you would need to make a cold-reduction by running the parts through a set of rollers.  You can feed the part (with a set of tweezers) through the rollers.\n\nUnfortunately, the rollers will squeeze the part vertically (thickness), but also horizontally.  This will distort the part.  \n\nA better solution is to purchase "spring temper" brass and do the chemical etching on the spring temper material; that way, no cold reduction is needed.\n\nA 60.5% reduction from the annealed state will get you a spring temper on 70%Cu30%Zn alloy; this means you'll need approximately another 40% reduction to get to spring temper.
334754
Structural steel ASTM-A36 400 650   \nSteel, high strength alloy ASTM A-514 690 760   \nSteel, high tensile 1650 1860   \nSteel, Piano wire  2000   \n\nrest below
982061
This is the major topic of research for many commercial companies which prepare Oven and Grill cleaning products.\n\nThe carbon itself is bound to the metal with denatured (carbonized) fat or oil molecules.  These are generally effected only by very strong bases such as Sodium hydroxide (lye) which will react with aluminum and cause discoloration and chemical pitting.\n\nMechanical removal using sharp blades or soft metal bristle brushes will work, but requires much labor.  Steel wool is also used, but removes some of the metal from the surface of the pans.  Special electrical devices have been used with success, but tend to slowly wear away the top layer of aluminum.\n\nProfessional cooks ignore the problem by replacing aluminum with stainless steel pans.  Home and do-it your-selfers tend to allow the buildup until everything sticks and then replace the pans.\n\nThere has been a few who have "seasoned" their aluminum pans in a fashion similar to cast iron with mixed results.\n\nIf this is for pizza pans for your restaurant, I suggest soaking the pans overnight in a strong solution of Dawn Dish-washing Liquid and then taking the pans to a "steam" car wash to remove the detergent.
155392
One method is using bimetallic strips of metals that can stand very high temperature. Bimetallic strips bend when the temperature changes.
120346
You need tempertures above 1764 °F.  It is best done in a ceramic container.
729064
It should be fine the way you are doing it.  If you want add a little extra solder and then dip it in flux before wiping it with the sponge.  I wouldn't recommend wiping the end with steel wool or solder, as this could remove the solder you need to have on the tip.
146077
DON'T USE AN S.O.S. PAD!!!  That will screw up the non-stick surface and void the warranty.  Call up the company and ask what to do. 800-255-2523.\n\nIf that doesn't work, boil water in the pan to loosen the crud. (You don't really need to add baking soda or vinegar.)  Do this repeatedly, or soak overnight in soapy water until you get most of the crud loose, which you do with something soft, like a wooden spoon wrapped in a dishcloth.\n\nGrocery stores sell plastic "pan scrapers" just for scraping things off non-stick pan surfaces without damaging the surface.  Should be like 2 or 3 for 99 cents.  Or you can try to use the edge of a PLASTIC spatula in the same way.
1013656
Cut up some steel into small piecies.\nWeight out a set amoult of the steel, say 1 g.\nAdd a set amoult of the HCl acid and stir untill the steel dissiloves.\nNow do a titiration using a base of set molarity.\n\nNow the maths part\nZn + 2HCl -> ZnCl + 2HX\nX is a countion\nSo for one mole of Zn in the solution will react with 2 moles of HCl\nSo using the amoult of HCl and the molarity you can work out the number of moles of HCl you have in your solution.\nLets call this A\n\nHow for the tiratation\n\nHCl + NaOH -. NaCl + H2O\n\nSo one mole of NaOH reacts with one mole of NaOH\nWork out the number of moles of HCl left in the zinc solution\nBy using the volume of NaOH and the morality of it.\nCall his B\n\nNow the number of Moles of HCl the Zn has reacted with is\nA - B\n\nCall this C\n\nAs Zn reacts with 2 moles of HCl there are\nC/2 moles of Zn in the solution.\nCall this D\n\nFrom where you can work out the number of atoms in the zinc By using D x arggavios contant (sp) to give you the number of\natoms in your sample.\n\nNow share the number of atoms in your sample by the weight you using in forming your sample will give you the atoms per gram.\nNow times this final number by the weight of the starting piece of steel and you have your number of atoms.
663481
Depends on the pressure and temperature of the system. At low pressure and temp you can use teflon tape or plumbers putty, at high temp and pressure you need to use garlock, graphite flexes or a graphite sealing compound. you should really weld any high pressure unions and then then test prior to putting the system into use.
162874
Use Leather- Like a welding glove! \nIf you are working with really high temps get a "fire blanket" like from a sporting goods store. (I believe it has asbestos in it??)
766344
I like to cut it into small cubes then let it soak in buttermilk over night, then a kneading mallet can be used for additional tenderness. Also you can buy a meat tenderizer out of the cabelas magazine.
168038
You would have to look into the properties for AMS, ASTM, AISI, ASME, Federal, Mil and SAE steels. It all depends on what type of steel you are using. Stainless, mild and what type of hardness (1/2 or 1/4 for stainless) that you need and what the purpose of the part is going to be used for
69838
Here is a "recipe" for gun bluing\n\nBlue-Black Finish on Steel\n \na. Place object in molten sodium nitrate (700-800 degrees F) for 2-3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool somewhat; wash in hot water; dry and oil with mineral or linseed oil. \n\nb. Place in following solution for 15 minutes:\nCopper sulphate 1/2 oz.\nIron Chloride 1 lb.\nHydrochloric acid 4 oz.\nNitric acid 1/2 oz.\nWater 1 gallon\nThen allow to dry for several hours; place in above solution again for 15 minutes; remove and dry for 10 hours. Place in boiling water for 1/2 hour; dry and scratch brush very lightly. Oil with mineral or linseed oil and wipe dry.
959196
Try Brownells, ive used it before with really great results. heres a link to get it\nhttp://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1145&title=TEFLON%2FMOLY+OVEN+CURE%2C+GUN+FINISH
1052478
The charring you are referring to is called "Remelt"\n   It is seen in the EDM process as well.\nI am unfamiliar with the material you are referring to.\n   Can you offer more information?