How can I tighten the crakshaft on my mountain bike ?
454812
An 8mm Allen wrench can be used to tighten the crank to the bottom bracket.  On some older models, a 14mm or 15mm hex head wrench would be used.  However, if the bottom is what is actully loose, you usually have to remove the crank, tighten the bottom bracket, and then replace the crank.\n\nYou should probably take this to your bike shop if you don't understand what I've said above.
985731
If the seatpost itself has broken, I suggest that you purchase a regular STEEL seatpost that fits correctly, then split the bottom of it with a hacksaw about 1 1/2" (40mm). Braze a washer on the top of the post, install a sufficiently long bolt through the washer and add a correctly sized binder nut that came from a quill stem. If necessary, before you split the seatpost you could cut it down to match the bolt. You will probably need to cannibalize a stem that has a 1 1/8" diameter. Peugeot, Kabuki, Bridgestone, Itoh all had these types of seatpin.\n\nTightening the bolt will pull the nut through the seatpin and expand it to secure in the frame.\n\nYou will need to also get a saddle clamp that will attach your saddle to the post... bike shops have all these parts.
578742
Hey, I've included a couple links were you can finds parts for the loncin 110 bike.\n\nMatt
1099711
If there are not adjustments for that on the frame you may be able to use an old slot car racing trick and twist the chassis. It would probably require some fairly long levers to cold set the frame. You didn't specify if you're oval racing or what kind of surface.
819851
I'm not familiar with the brand. Most adjustments are on the handlebars by the throttle. If it is a chinese brand then good luck and shame on you.
593478
Remove the tyre and inner tube. \n\nSaw through the rim. Take a large mallet and gradually bash away until the rim is one long straight piece.\n\nJob done - but I can't think why you'd want to do this ....
436103
If you find out, tell me. I have the exact same bike and my chain just broke. I went to the local bike shop and they want $25 for the chain. They also said they probably woud recomment changing the front gears too, since both parts usually wear out at the same time. That's going to be another $50 with labor. Go to the Mongoose bike website, they might have the info on size there.
355318
yes the spring tension should be adjustable see a gunsmith or read a book also   wipe all the parts that move with a jewelers clothe and they will move smoother together thets an old army shooting team trickdont forgit to oil up the parts that you  fine tune  good luck
816960
OK, there are a couple of reasons that your bike might be creaking, some worse than others:\n\n1) If the bike makes the noise only as you are pushing down on the pedals, chances are the crank arms are loose. These need to be tightened to a specific torque so I recommend a bike shop visit;\n\n2) If the bike creaks when you are seated, it may be because the saddle or seatpost is loose. Make sure the saddle is tight on the seatpost, then REMOVE the post from the frame, coat the inside of the seat tube (the frame tube where the seat post fits), then reinstall the seat post. If you overtighten the seatpost in the frame you may damage the frame, so be careful;\n\n3) If the bike creaks when you put a lot of stress on the handlebars, slide the bars out from the stem and lubricate between bar and stem as with the seatpost. If you have a standard quill stem, also remove the stem from the fork and lubricate with grease inside the fork tube (steerer). Should you have a threadless steerer I recommend that you, again, take it to a bike shop just to be sure everything is cool; \n\n4) If your frame is aluminum, it is beginning to fail. Unlike steel, aluminum will eventually fail just from regular riding. Occasionally this failure is pretty spectacular and is called "Sudden Catastrophic Failure". If you have a high end bike (perhaps $1500 or more) and the frame is aluminum, sometimes they creak from the day they are new.
128161
ive been skiing since i was 2 and i can do this pretty well. it depends on the binding. there is a screw on the back of the binding. loosen it, then push it back or foward(depending if the boot is too big or to small) once it is in the right position then you need to tighten the screw. if it is giving you trouble then take it into the ski shop.
1031387
As far as reving high, you need carburator adjustment. This may solve the choke problem as well. For the bike kicking into gear by itself, if it is new they will do that until broken in properly but if it is older you need to check the clutch plates as they may be worn and need to be replaced.
597174
I think you'll find most bars are tapered a little bit- they're beefier in the middle for more strength where the stem clamps on.\n\nWhat kind of riding are you doing?  The only caution about riser bars is that they make it more difficult to put weight over your front wheel as your are climbing.  So if you're a xc rider you may go with a shorter rise.\n\nYou could try getting an angled stem to use w/ your flat bar- they make stems w/ an adjustable angle also.
770690
Sorry, you need a chain tool unless the chain is made be Sram. It isn't Sram unless it was already replaced.
499264
In general...\n\nIf it's an aluminum frame, trash it. If it's carbon, trash it. If it's an older steel frame, depending on how bad it is, you could possibly straighten the frame by taking it to your local bike shop (a reputable one, not somewhere like Performance Bike) and have them cold set it. Ideally they'll have a frame table as well to get everything perfect.\n\nIn your case, it sounds like you either have a problem with your forks, or the front end of the bike is twisted. You're pretty much outta luck here. Time for a new frame.\n\nGood luck!
7531
First you need the spike wrench.  A divot tool will sometimes have the prongs built in.  It might take a while, especially if you've worn the shoes a while.  There's going to be dirt and stuff in the treads of the spike so don't give up.  And make sure when you buy new softspikes that they are the right size.  Your local golf store can help you w/ that one.
313950
As much horsepower and torque as you can afford, use a longbed frame/body, and move the rear end back next to the bumper--use a tall rearend 5:13-6:50 and a six-gear automatic manually shifted--Good luck!!!
851621
OK I'm not sure what your trying to accomplish by taking the wheel off the bike but here goes while pedalling the bike put it in the smallest cog on the rear (this will make it easier to remove and replace the wheel) then while holding the bike up give the wheel a sharp shot on the top of the wheel with your fist it will easily pop out .\n\nIf its the trainer your trying to figure out it should work with the skewers on your bike if not one should be provided in which case its not necessary to remove the wheel from the bike ,flip the quick release undo the nut on the other side (all the way off) slide the stock skewer out slide the new one in and your in business.