why when i reload my .38 special ammo does it not fit right into the gun. it pushes lead around the edge.?
451540
Chances are that you forgot to bell the empty case. I have done that myself! \n\nIn a nutshell to reload you:\n1) clean the cases\n2) deprime and resize each case\n3) bell or expand the case mouth\n4) prime the case\n5) load the powder\n6) seat the bullet\n7) crimp the casemouth\n\nBlast away! \n\nYou might want to subscibe to a yahoo group on handloading. I have learned a lot in the last couple of years. \n\nhttp://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/handloading/\n\nHave fun and be safe!
1121645
your recoil tube may have alot of buildup in it.  i have to clean out my sbe after every 3-4000 rounds.
721987
sure.  it's probably a modified or improved modified for steel.  with lead you'll have patterns closer to improved cylinder or modified.  steel chokes are compatible with lead.  but not all lead chokes are compatible with steel.  the lead shot will compress when it goes through the tube, steel won't.  some of my tubes are marked "lead shot only", they are IM, F and XF only for lead.
1102471
Just write or email Guns and Ammo magazine..... the should be able to give you more info based upon the serial number.  Hope this helps.
932268
Bound's hubby here:\n\nAnd people say creative writing is dead!\n\nFirst ... the .38 Special, .357 Magnum, and 9mm handguns and their respective ammunition are referred to as medium bores. \n\nThe .38 Special, being the oldest, was one of the first "true" medium bore smokeless powder cartridges. While the bullets fired from a .38 Special or .357 Magnum are typically .357 to .358 inches in diameter (9mm being .355 inches in diameter), the inside diameter of the barrel at the grooves is smaller in diameter, and the inside diameter at the lands (rifling) is even smaller in diameter ... this is necessary for the bullet to "fill" the lands and grooves to establish rotation of the bullet in order to achieve any degree of accuracy. \n\nThe earlier blackpowder medium bore cartridge was the .38-40 ... whose bullet was actually .40 cal. (firing a bullet .400 inches in diameter). \n\nThe other "medium bore" handgun prior to this was the .36 Navy, a cap and ball revolver that fired a bullet .351 inches in diameter. \n\nWith the exception of the .357 Magnum, none of the medium bores' names truely reflect the actual diameter of the bullet fired. The reason the .38 Special was named the .38 Special by Smith & Wesson (its developer) was to avoid identification with the .36 Navy ... which WAS a proprietary development of its competitor, "Colt". Performance-wise, the .38 Special was a significant improvement in reliability, performance, and accuracy over the .36 Navy ... and needless to say more modern ... S&W sought a unique identity for its first centerfire medium bore smokeless cartridge.\n\nAs an aside, with the exception of the .22, the .25 ACP, .357 Magnum, the .40 S&W, the .41 Magnum, and the vast variety of .45s, no handgun cartridge name truly reflects the actual diameter of the bullet. The 32 family = .312", the .38 family = .357, the .38-40 = .400", and the .44 family (even the mighty .44 Magnum) = .429".\n\nGood luck!
885258
Yeah, but I wouldn't worry too much. \n\nWithout the pistol what's the worry about having ammo that also happens to fit a pistol?  It's having the pistol that's the real issue. Right?\n\nAlso .22 rim-fire is very low power, not that I want to be shot at by it! :)
684141
Holy jesus no! 357sig is pretty much a .40 caliber casing necked down to fit a .357 round, similarly the .400 corbon is a .45 casing necked down to fire a .40 caliber round
598571
i use CB caps for what you are doing.  it's a regular long rifle case with just primer and a smaller bullet.  CCI makes them, and i bought a brick from cabelas.  it shoots a 20 grain bullet at about 900 fps, no noise either.  i can hear the hammer fall.
102947
Nobody at a pawn shop would know the first thing about crimping a .223 round. If your bullet has a cannelure (groove around the bearing surface), then load the bullet so just the very top part of the cannelure is sticking out of the shell and crimp the round. Hands-down, the best crimping die out there for cannelured bullets is the Lee Factory Crimp Die. You can find it at any of the links below.\n\nIf you're not using a cannelured bullet, then there is no crimp. You'll be relying solely on neck tension to keep the bullet in position. If you're shooting these out of a bolt gun that's not a problem. If you're bumping them against an AR-15 feed ramp, you could have a problem. Measure the length of the loaded round, chamber one from th emagazine, then eject that round and measure again. If the bullet has moved, switch to cannelured bullets and crimp them. If the bullet didn't move, blast away!
750354
I checked my gunmarks book. I found nothing for that proofmark. Ae the crown and "G" together as one or separate? The 6.4mm equates to .25 caliber. Are you sure you do not have a .25 rimfire? Many thousands were made in the states in the early decades of the 20th century. Email me and I will check other sources in my library.
299305
Bad powder load.\n\nUsually not enough powder -- the projectile could get stuck in the barrel causing excessive pressure and the barrel to burst or bulge. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAR IT BY FIRING AGAIN!!!\n\nMay also mean too much also called a "hot" load - too much could cause too much pressure in the barrel and cause it to burst or bulge.\n\nBe Safe!
305927
The first thing you need to do is look at the primer on the bullet to see how hard the firing pin is hitting it. If it isn't make a dent then the firing pin may be dirty and it is not hitting the primer hard enough. You might want to try different ammo too. Most likely the problem is the firing pin or bad primers on the bullets.
63716
It's called the bore evacuator. It softens the backward recoil energy of the gun when it fires by providing an enlarged space for the proppelant gases to expand into.
50486
You can also use ( Safely ) .38 Special ammo in the same gun.  The .38 cartridge is less "abrupt" and will make it much easier to practice.  In some cases, .38 Special ammo is also cheaper.  With enough practice, and maybe some instruction, the .357 Magnum is a very controllable firearm.
814595
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, before you do anything ... is the rifle loaded?\n\nSecond, it sounds as though the bolt body may be bent or damaged from a previous round fired (perhaps an improperly handloaded round?), and the bolt started to collapse. This is not a receiver problem! A gunsmith should not have to "re-mill" the receiver. And, don't use WD-40 ... I have had bad luck with it and guns.\n\nYour wisest move is to first call Browning and talk with them ... they will suggest that you send the rifle to them for inspection and repair. Take the rifle and its packaging to your local gunsmith for shipment back to Browning ... you can no longer do this yourself! \n\nAs an aside ... I had a similar problem with a Remington 700 ... and they replaced the bolt ... plain and simple. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer!
814444
Bound's hubby here:\n\nIf you forget about the start-up costs, reloading your ammunition can be very cost-effective. As an example, I cast my own .38 bullets and load my .38 Specials, and I can do a box of 50 .38 Special target loads for about $0.55! \n\nI reload the following cartridges:\n\nRifle: .223 Remington, .25-35 Winchester, .270 Winchester, .308 Winchester, .30-06 Springfield, 8mm Mauser, .40-65 Winchester, and .45-70 Springfield.\n\nPistol: .38 Special, .357 Magnum, 9mm Luger, .41 Magnum, and .45 ACP.\n\nShotgun: 12 Guage.\n\nYou will need a reloading press. Presses for rifle and pistol cartridges are the same, but you need a special press for shotgun shells. You will need a set of reloading dies for each caliber/cartridge you wish to reload. You will also need a scale to measure your powder charges, and a tumbler for cleaning the cartridge cases. But most important, you will require a good reloading manual with all of the technical information and powder recipes for the ammunition you reload. Expect to spend about $500 for your equipment, and it will be a good investment as long as you do not purchase crap!\n\nTo reload your .40 S&W shells, you will probably reload FMJ bullets, and this will increase the cost of your reloading venture ... figure about $0.15 to $0.20 per bullet. If you can find a lead bullet you like and that shoots well in your pistol, you can lower the per bullet cost to about $0.06 each. Your primer will cost about $0.018 each, and depending on the powder you use, your powder charge will be about $0.08 per shell. So ... your total cost per cartridge to reload will run about $0.16 to $0.30 per shell. Factory loaded ammo will cost you about $0.30 per shell, or more. \n\nReloading can be time intensive, and it can be cost effective, after a significant set-up cost. If you plan on shooting alot, reloading can make shooting affordable for you. I shoot about 1400 rifle rounds a year. In a good year, I will also shoot about 1000 shotgun shells and 2000-3000 pistol shells a year. Reloading makes all this shooting possible. But you must exercise care.
234195
Instead of just buying a new trigger try moving the trigger closer to teh micro switch so it wont take as long for you to pull the trigger. My trigger is so close to my micrositch that a tap on it will fire it. But only shoot as fast as you gun can handle or otherwise it will chop and its gonna take a long time for you to fix it.