How to pick a bowling ball that fits myself?  What aspect should I be aware of?
436278
Oh lord, I agree. The industry has gotten out of hand. There is so much equipment out there to choose from and it is so expensive! Bowling has become more about equipment than skill, which really irritates me, but that's a whole different issue!!\n\nOkay, some advice. First of all, I would check with some local pro shops to see if they have any demo days. Several times a year in my town, Ebonite & a couple other manufacturers have a demo day. They fit you with a special insert that conforms to your grip. It's pretty neat because you get to try out a couple dozen different balls for like $10.\n\nIf that's not an option, I'll go over some basics for you. There are more manufacturers out there now than you can shake a stick at. AMF, Brunckswick, Ebonite, Storm, Track, Hammer, Columbia, Rotogrip, Elite....the list keeps going. Long gone are the days of the Yellow Dot. And you can pay anything from $75 on up to $300 for a ball. I know....it's insane. \n\nFirst, maybe a little about the different types of balls. First you have performance balls. These are your reactive and proactive bowling balls. About 10 years ago or so, the first of the reactive balls, the reactive resin, made it's appearance and hit the market by storm. Reactive balls have a big backend and they hit hard. These bowling balls are 'tacky' and soft. They grip the lane and increase hooking power. One thing to note about these is that because they are so soft, the track wears in the much quicker than any other material and thus you must resurface and ultimately buy another buy sooner. But, they are fun. You don't have to do much work to get a reactive ball to, well, react.\n\nNext you have urethane balls. Urethane has more of a controlled roll. They don't get the respect they used to, but don't pass them by. They are much more predictable and easier to read than a reactive ball. When lane conditions are dry, a urethane will stay put. A reactive ball will be all over the backend. They are more economical and much more durable.\n\nAnd finally, of course, you have polyester or plastic balls. Still ever so popular because you can throw them so straight! Perfect for picking up corner pins. They are cheap and you should own just one for your arsenal!\n\nWell, whew! Does that shed any light? I know it's overwhelming! My main 'arsenal' is a Brunswick Riot Zone. It's a few years old, so to some you could say I'm a little obsolete. But I love that ball. And there are still several Zone balls on the market. I've heard good things about Ebonite's 'The One' but have never thrown one myself. It is a pretty powerful ball though. \n\nShop around and try so hard to see if you can find a demo day somewhere. That is your best route!! Hope I helped!
1096423
Look down below, and that should give u a starting point..\nA cue and 2 balls.
610381
specific diameter doesn't matter. keep it simple. get an over-sized head (to cut down on misses!) and make sure it is light (to avoid beginners wrist pain) a basic one from any regular sports store is fine. plus, you don't have to buy an expensive one. get like a $40-60 one and see if he likes tennis first!
415020
The main difference in a sport shot in bowling compared to a typical house shot is that the ball is much less likely to hook back into the pocket if you miss the target. It does rewards accuracy and consistency is very important. Thus is may be better to use a ball which turns less (if you are a hooker) but is more accurate. If you are a spinner, it is vital to hit the 1-3 pocket, so perhaps taking a slightly lighter ball with more control would be best.
1104214
Throw that ball as hard and as fast and as straight as you can to the right of the ten pin if you a right handed bowler. If you're a lefty, aim for the seven pin. I don't believe there is any skill involved in carrying a 7/10 split though. It's all luck honey!!!
679364
AT a bowling alley that has a gift shop in it. They can special order it with holes to fit the size of your fingers and at the perfect weight...
518627
little history about the pins might help. Bowling originated in Europe where it was called keggling. It came to the United States with early immigrants. The earliest bowling pins were made of maple and were smaller than the pins of today, similar in size to the current candlepins. These pins were cylindrical, much like a rolling pin. Early American bowlers began, probably for a little variety, to turn the pins on their lathes. It became obvious that this new shape could improve pin action, the very desirable effect of one pin knocking down another. This was studied and some standardized dimensions resulted. The majority of the weight of the pin was to be in the belly or the widest part of the pin. The belly was to be the same height off the lane as the maximum circumference of the bowling ball. Some weight in the head of the pin improved the spinning of fallen pins creating better scores. From that evolving process came the very regulated product today. Pins are 15 inches high and 15 inches around at the belly. Regulation pins weigh between 3 pounds 6 ounces and 3 pounds 10 ounces, with the PBA pros using the heaviest pins. The pins are still made of maple though they are laminated. Four smaller pieces of maple are affixed to a larger central plank which has two holes or voids drilled in the area which will become the belly. This allows for better control of the weight of the pin. The pin is turned to size on a lathe and a plastic collar is attached to the base. The pin is then coated with a protective plastic covering. Very rigorous quality control is part of the release process for new pins. Since 1962 there have been 40-50 proposed modification but none has passed the performance criteria. In 1999 after three decades of research a new, all synthetic pin called the Twister was approved for use. It will debut at the 2001 ABC tournament in Reno, Nevada. Look for it; it may soon appear in your local bowling house but it probably won't make the 7-10 split any easier to pick up!
1070609
For golf balls, I would recommend the Pro V1's.  But you really don't need such a high quality ball if you are a relative beginner.  You really wont notice a difference.  In terms of best bang for your buck, I would buy AA quality used Maxfli Noodles.  These balls cost about 48 cents each shipped.\n\nFor clubs, it really depends on which clubs.\n\nFor drivers, Taylor Made is hard to beat.  Callaway is ok as well.  There are actually quite a few good driver makers.  Best thing to do is look around and demo.\nFor fairway woods, Tour Edge Exotics is probably the best.\nFor hybrids,Nickent, Cobra, and Taylor Made lead the pack.\nFor irons, Mizuno wins hands down.\nFor wedges, Cleveland, Mizuno, and Vokey are among the best.\nFor putters, it really is a personal preference issue.  Some of my favorites include the Odyssey 2-Ball, the Heavy Putter, Bettinardi, Guerin, and Gauge.  Other popular brands include Scotty Cameron, Never Compromise, and Yes!\n\nHope this helps!
13520
Some say heavier, I say lighter. I use a 14 in the first frame. But to pick up the 7 or 10 pin in a spare, I pick a ligher ball.\n\nThe lighter ball allows me to power it down the lane before spin takes effect. I could up-size and spin to the corners, but then I'm a slave to my wrist control (which is not my forte). Although you must use spin when trying to pick up a 7/10 split.
861572
Try the same thing I did.....  Go to Brunswick.com to search for a Brunswick certified pro shop that will rejuvenate your Ultimate Inferno.  I tried the same thing with my Radical Inferno and it worked like a charm!  I guess the Brunswick polish had abrasives in it, in addition to using the Brunswick rough pads and totally brought the hook and action back to my equipment.\n\nAlso now, since my bowling center is putting down more challenging oil patterns, I went to Bowlingball.com to search for some of Brunswick's Overseas International bowling balls that have more reactive hooking coverstocks, but at a cheaper price than the US releases.  I've been using an International Master Zone as my light oil ball and Radical Inferno for medium/oily conditions.  The Total Inferno is also coming out soon.....
728799
First of all what you need is:\n\nYou always need to be positive. Always talk to yourself, while batting, that you can pull the game even from 0/9.\n\nBatting in last over or looking for some quick runs:\n\nIf you are looking to score some quick runs to shift the score, then always opt for straight. Back over the bowlers head. That´s where no fielder will be placed. If you are batting in Power-Plays then try to hit it bit over the top to make sure that you would get atleast four (4) runs out of it. Don´t take too many risks. Because if you can get 12 runs in one over, then just think that it´s better to pick 6 from every over.\n\nAdvices:\n\nIf you want your team to win, then always attack your opposition´s best bowler. Don´t defend against. Never think that you shouldn´t give him your wicket to boost his moral. Because, bowlers such as McGrath, will either get on top of you or either would get thrashed by the oppostion. So, by defending against him, you would just boost him, though bit slowly than giving your wicket, but it certainly dents your chances. Be a good batsman on every side of the wicket. Though, every batsman has his favourite shots. But you can even give a weakness to the opposition by doing this. One thing that you really need is sense. You should be such batsman that if they can block your shots, then try to milk the bowling by picking up singles. Be a good runner. Never miss a opportunity to take a run. Never look towards the bowler after getting out to him. Never hear what the bowler says. They might say "Come on, hit one for six (6)", but you should never listen to them. Because you would be kicking yourself by giving your wicket away because of the verbal skills of the bowler. Because you would feel "He didn´t anything. It´s me who gave my wicket away after getting carried away".\n\nI hope for the best for you!\n\nRawal.
747371
The three sizes that are used for play in adult slow pitch softball are 11", 12" and 16".  The 11" ball is a little bit harder and is used in women's play and by women on coed teams.  The 12" ball is used in men's play.  The 16" ball is used in areas where the fields are small (ball doesn't travel as far when hit), like big cities (Chicago for sure).  Hope this helps.
699511
If you have a "Roger Dunn" golf store nearby, call them and find out when they are going to have a sale where manufactures come out to display their wares.  Lots and lots of used equipment at a pretty good price.  Also manufacturers are on site to "fit" you to a specific club.  They ask you your golf ability, length of time playing, how you play and what is your handicap.  All these factored in and they can all give you a pretty good "sizing"... This way you have a lesser chance of wasting your money.  Good luck and enjoy the game.  It is the greatest game ever played.
223308
You don't say how much of a "beginner" you are but the first thing you should do to start off is to have your own ball (proper weight) properly drilled at a pro shop which most times are located within bowling centers. Now, depending on how long and how much you've been bowling, to throw a curve depends on what type of fingergrips you use. I use a fingertip ball, which means that I only put my fingers into the ball up to the first joint. You could try a semi-fingertip, too, which works for some people. There are so many details and fine-tuning that needs to take place, and it's all a personal thing; like what's comfortable for you. Then follow the basics: your approach, your backswing, and finally your release and follow-through. Make sure though, that you don't force a curve with turning your hand around to spin the ball. This a bad habit to learn. All are equally important...and, of course, hitting your mark on the lanes. Once you get all these things into rhythm, then all you need to do is practice, practice and more practice.
519994
1. Harder golf balls, some call them two piece, they are promoted for distance - these balls will go further than the other types. The ball will hook or slice less and will not stop on the green as well as the other types. This ball is harder to fade or drawl. This ball will bounce higher than the other balls if dropped on a hard surface\n\n2. This ball is built for feel but has a harder cover - You get good distance but not as good as the 1st. The ball will stop on green a little better and will move around a little more. This ball will have some spin on it.\n\n3. Softer ball - This ball has more feel to it. The ball spins so it will hood or slice more. The ball stops on the greens. You can move the ball around. This ball is very pricey and not as durable. \n\nSource(s):
321448
I can't believe there is a curling category and not bowling!!! What is up with that?!?!?\n\nAnyway, help on your spares....This would be good for you too scrappy. Of course you want strikes, always. There is no secret for leaving easy spares. You leave what you leave. You work on spare shots. If you know people in high places (or work in the bowling alley ;-D) you can set up spares yourself.\n\nIf not, here's what you do. Corner pins are the hardest single pin conversion. More specifically, the ten pin for righties, the seven for lefties. Instead of throwing your ball at the pocket on your first ball, practicing shooting the ten pin. Never mind that it's a full rack...just shoot the ten. On you second ball, you can either choose to shoot the pocket for a conversion, or practice on the seven pin.\n\nRemember, just because you have a full rack standing, doesn't mean you have to knock them all down! Another good idea is forget keeping score. It only plays with your mind. Just get out there and through some good shots. \n\nIf you have problems converting the ten pin, here's my suggestion. You need to learn to be able to read oil patterns in lanes. This takes years...be patient. But you need to be comfortable in looking everywhere on the lane. When reading oil patterns on a first ball, I always start my shot on the 10 board at the arrows and adjust from there. \n\nFor spares, I do something a little different. When I shoot anything on the left side, I look about three boards to the right of the pin on the curtain on the machine. I know my ball is going to break and pick up that single.\n\nFor anything on the right side, particularly the ten, I look at about 2 inches in front of the pin and focus in on the shadow of the pin....and I throw that ball as hard and as fast and as straight as I can. \n\nI hope this helps you a little bit. If there's anything else you'd like advice on, feel free to email me. gojenni714@yahoo.com
1085647
Hey It_girl, you're going to find that each person has their own preference for racquets. My preference is Wilson, but I admit that there are other brands that have good sticks as well (I also like Head and Babolot). That said, this is a question that is asked pretty frequently. Here's what I suggest:\n\nRULE #1: Don't buy a racquet before comparing it with others. Most tennis clubs and racquet stores will have some sort of demo program that will let you try out a variety of racquets for a few days for just a couple of bucks. Often, they'll let you put this money towards your futures purchase. If you're having a hard time finding a store that will let you demo a racquet, then check out the website included in the sources.\n\nRacquets come with different stiffness, weighting, stringing patterns and lengths. All that adds up to a lot of different choices and a lot of different feels. If you're a beginner, then you probably don't need to shell out much money yet for a racquet, just find something that feels good in your hand and use it until you want to try something new.\n\nIf you have loopy strokes and have no trouble adding your own power to your shots, then you want a racquet that isn't as stiff, and that is head-light--usually termed a control racquet. However, most of the population will find these racquets ill-suited for their skill. With that in mind, I'll mark some rules of thumb below to help you sort out the differences:\n\n1) Stiffness. The stiffer a racquet is, the more power it produces. You mentioned that your racquet isn't controllable. If you mean that you have a hard time keeping the ball in the court, then it's probably because your racquet is too stiff for your style of play.\n\n2) Weight. Heavier racquets are usually less stiff, because they allow you to generate more momentum behind the ball (as an analogy, think of the difference between a hammer and a sledge hammer; if a racquet has more weight to it, it can pack more of a punch). Most players will want a stick that falls in the middle of the pack to the light side.\n\n3) Head-heavy or head-light? Head-heavy racquets are usually those that allow you to generate more momentum (see #2). Pros will play with HH, while recreational will play with HL, because it requires less effort to hit the ball.\n\n4) Stringing patterns. Some racquest have more open stringing patterns while others have more dense patterns. You can judge by looking at how close together the strings are across the racquet face. Different patterns have a different feel and make it easier to apply spin and also give a larger sweet spot. You may want to see if you can find a pattern that feels better with your game.\n\n5) Lengths. Manufacturers make racquets that are an inch and a half longer than normal. These racquets give you more whip to your serves. Some people find them unweildy. I don't like playing with a longer stick, but you may.\n\n6) Feel. Each manufacturer has its own feel. I am a Wilson fan, because I love the feel of the racquet. You feel every aspect of the contact. I don't like Prince's feel, because it feels heavier and more dead to me, but that's just my opinion. Babolat racquets have a similar feel to Wilson. Try a bunch of manufacturers and find one that you like.\n\nAgain, demo a bunch of racquets (most sporting goods stores and tennis stores have a demo program; tennis warehouse has an online program that you may want to look into--I've included the link below). Don't buy anything unless you're sure that you like it enough to buy three.\n\nI hope that helps.