How do I protect my boat from algae growing on it?
440473
Hey Jake!  When I lived in Ocala, FL back in the late 80's I had a Chris Craft boat with a fiberglass hull.  To protect the hull and the finish I would wash the outside and deck with a good degreaser (Greased Lightning) and after-wards apply a product called Sta-Brite.  It is a wax, not sure if it was a silicone base or not but it really repelled the algae and keep the gel-coat/finish shiny\n\nHyway
549460
bmck has it right...prep work on any paint job is about 3x the actual paint time and the more the better...all loose paint must go; any place the aluminum is oxidizing ( loose grey powder, the alum. equivalent of rust) must go. Zinc chromate either in spray cans or quarts is the preferred  general purpose primer..\n\nPaints are usually made as a system, ie a finish coat is made to go with a specific primer. GO to marine store..or, if you are on fresh water and doing very limited use) a hardware store, and read the pant cans. Having spent 30 years reading Interlux and Pettit cans, I know there's a lot of information on the label.\n\nIf you are thinking of putting an anti-fouling paint on the boat you CAN NOT NOT NOT use copper based paints. The copper in salt water will eat the aluminum hull in no time....special paints are made for aluminum; once again read the cans.....THIS ALSO APPLIES TO OUTDRIVES AND OUTBOARD MOTORS, FOLKS..if you're in salt or even brackish water don't use copper anti fouling paint on your engine parts.you will quickly regret it
1033261
If you aren't an experienced boater, get with one or start hanging out at a local boat repair shop... you may even be able to trade some advise, tips and expertise out for sweeping a floor or parking lot.... but either way... boating can be a really bad experience if your boat isn't ready.\n There are so many things that you need to make sure work and are in good shape before you go that it's kinda mind boggling.... check with your Department of Fish and Wildlife too... they are usually the one in alot of states that inspect boats for safety.\n Some basic things.... battery fully charged, fuel lines and connector are serviceable and don't leak, steering cables are lubed, tilt and trim are lubed, bow and stern lights work, you have a tow line, fuel tank is full and you have a clean fuel filter, bilge pump and live well pumps work, you have both hull drain plugs and they have a "dummy" cord, spare spark plugs and a small tool kit, your gas and oil are  mixed correctly (I don't trust auto-injectors).... and the lsit goes on and on... and of course your boat needs to be properly registered and you have the registration numbers marked correctly on your boat.\n\nHope this helps you out.
618195
Okay here goes.First thing you need is great insect repellent to spray yourself completely to keep the nasty bugs away.Buy the strongest sun screen to protect your skin.Wear a hat to ward off sun/heat stroke.Buy 6 bottles of water and a cooler with ice to keep them cold.Make yourself some snack foods for lunch and for the munchies.I also brought hand wipes to clean the worm gunk and fish smell off my hands.Buy a cheap but good rod and real with a small tackle box filled with all the little goodies you may need.Remember above all if the fish is smaller than your hand throw the poor thing back into the water so it can grow some more.
241606
I'd suggest using large water bladders.  You can fill them up when you want more wake and easily get rid of the ballast when you're done so you don't have to haul the extra weight around.  They are commercially available in boating catalogs (Overton's, Bart's, etc.), but you can also make them yourself.\n\nBe careful not to exceed the weight limit on your boat.
97465
Actually with a 500 lb. boat and a muddy seabottom a small mushroom anchor will hold you nicely under reasonable conditions.  The problem is when you need your anchor the most it will not be in reasonable condtions.  In my opinion the least discussed function of an anchor is as a safety device.  In the boat you discribe you will not be relying on the anchor to hold you fast while you sleep through the night.  But it may save your life some day by keeping you from going over a low head dam or ending up in the surf on a rocky shore. So you are correct to be concerned about what type on anchor to use on even a small boat.\n\nMy thoughts are these.  When the going gets tough you don't want to be relying a a mushroom or similar inferior type anchor.  But, also, on a boat this size space is at a premium.  A claw anchor or a plow will take up alot of room.  What you really what is a danforth type anchor.  They fold flat and perform very well for there weight.  You certainly dont need a 20-30 LB danforth as the guy above said.  That anchor would be capable of holding a 40' boat.  A 4 or 5 lb. danforth anchor should be adequate for you boat.  The next thing you need is a 4' to 6' lenght of chain to attach to the anchor.  What the chain does is cause the "pull" on the anchor to be more horizontal making the flukes dig in and hold.  You will want to attach a 100-150' length of three strand nylon rode to that chain and you are set.  The more rode you let out the better it will hold.  West Marine (westmarine.com)has some helpful advice and a wide selection of anchors with ratings.  Even if you dont want to buy from them they have good information.\n\nFair winds and following seas buddy.
111011
Its called Gunk engine cleaner or any of the other engine cleaners avail. Just protect the electrics like the cap etc.
171617
What you need is a conformal coating. It will protect from more than water. It is basically a product you can get in a spray paint can you will need to apply it a few times to make sure the board is protected.\nThe stuff I have used before is ITW CHEMTRONICS KONFORM CONFORMAL COATINGS. There are other brands. Here is a link:\n\n\nother places will sell it than newark.
179379
Make sure nothing is under it
681281
It may very well be one of the brown algae, especially if your coral is in direct sunlight during some part of the day.  I don't know enough about corals or keeping fish to say if it's a danger, but a good pet shop should know.  If your fish is normally from saltwater, likely it is adapted to such things.
1053573
Best bet is to speak to boat manufactureres. Remember some years ago my dad had the same problem but manufacturers very helpful. Advised correct height above transom, distance offset (left or right) and prop size.
703753
Most boat dealers will do it for under one hundred dollars.  If you'd rather save the money like I would, check out the link below for great directions.  Good luck.
485066
yep; wax will help protect the gel coat ( the outer , colored layer of the fiberglass layup)....first you get an electric polisher ( looks like a drill or grinder with a big wool pad on it) and go over the boat with rubbing/cleaning compound; this gets the dirt, salt and oxidizing layer off the glass, makes it look clean and somewhat shinny, and then wax...down here in the Caribbean with hard usage of boats 24/7/365, waxing lasts about a year...be very careful about doing decks...you will slip fall go overboard hurt yourself!!!
1123675
It depends on the hull of the boat. If the hull of the boat is slippier than wax, than do not wax it. Try that teflon spray that chevy chase sprayed on his sled in christmas vacation.
566929
try discover boating.com they will send you a free dvd be safe.......
194795
it keeps water away from the contact with the ground
855659
Run cool (not cold) tap water over it and then apply a liberal amount of aloe vera gel.