how do you perform a "burnout"? can i do it on a suzuki esteem?
82276
Yes, it is possible. 100 bhp is plenty to perform this task with the short 1st gear. All these people are giving you completely inaccurate information.\n\nYou need to depress the clutch, rev the engine to the torque peak. Consult the owner manual for the torque peak. Next release the clutch (90%) quickly but not completely while flooring the gas. Do not let the revs drop. Keep 10% of the clutch unengaged and "ride the clutch" for the first couple seconds until the gas pushes it into full engagement. This will give you the fastest launch and the least transmission shock (the clutch absorbs more of the impact by riding it). Hold the steering wheel straight and enjoy your burnout.
1001605
Practice, practice, practice.\n\nI think you can only do a 'clutch' wheelie, ie only from rest. You can't do it on the go as the CBZ does not have that much power.\n\nRev the engine to about 4-5000 rpm. Release the clutch. As the bike wheelies, shift your weight to the rear of the bike, and pull the handlebars backwrds - towards yourself.\n\nNow it is very different from what it sounds like. You can only do it by practice. The surface is very important - a clean black tarmac would give goor grip, while on a dusty suirface your rear wheel will just spin.\n\nAnd most likely you would fall, so wear proper safety gear.
481955
boost controler , hard pipe kit , greddy blow off vale, bigger inter cooler but not to big you will have boost drop with a bigger inter cooler , kn air filter , 3 inch exhuast all the way back , change from a twin turbo to on big turbo like a super 25g is my fav , standalone ems , after all this you will need a new clutch to like a stage3 act is great ,
858682
Wow. Must say that's one of the more interesting Q's I've seen lately.\n\nSome things you could try:\n- raise your handlebars (check w/ a bike shop) so you sit more upright\n- try different saddles, some have those holes in the middle\n- remove the "hardware" before you ride, put it back in while cleaning up after your ride.\n- try going au naturel... remove the hardware entirely.\n\nGood luck... keep us "posted"
1152986
its hard to do but with practice it can be done try to hit 2ND gear then hit the throttle hard this seems to work
313950
As much horsepower and torque as you can afford, use a longbed frame/body, and move the rear end back next to the bumper--use a tall rearend 5:13-6:50 and a six-gear automatic manually shifted--Good luck!!!
156842
A tune up to start.Plugs,spark plug wires,7mm will do fine.I reccomend bosch platinum plugs or split fire.For a budget,as I am on also,a new air filter will do,I like K&N.A good low restrictive muffler and a 3 inch exhaust will be suffice.You may want to check into a chip if your vehicle has a computer.Stay away from nitrous,your bottom end will not hold.Run a good 89 octane.This will not only improve your power but will also help your fuel mileage.If you want to get wild tear out all the interior and gut the thing to lighten it.You may want to also look into aftermarket undersized pulleys.Your looking at around a grand still at that.You may want to consider a trade for a mid eighties mustang with the 302.You could build a beast with that.Gluck man.Power up....
399227
do it on a track, then it's up to the riders. Xr100's are known for not having much power, infact thats why they are so reliable. They dont produce enough power to break themselves
332363
you might just need a tune-up, or it could be more serious, try changing the spark plugs, distributer cap and rotor, a fuel additive wouldn't hurt either
541185
well the essential function is lean back towards the passanger seat,then rev it up to about 45 then gently hit the gas more and more while leaning back further.good luck
551723
Just jam yer foot on the brake, then stomp the gas.  The engine will overpower the brake on the driven wheel.  \n\nYou are already screwing up your car, why not burn up the brakes too?
1090847
I would just run it at 60 Hz. Output rpm will be 20% higher. \n\nAlternately, you could get a 400V VFD and set it's output to 50 Hz.
792212
if u cant drive a bike then take the help of anyone who van and try to learn .\nif u cant balance then first learn riding a cycle then after having a lot of experience try to ride a bike and u will definetly be able to do so.\nto drive a bike first start the bike hold the cluch then shift the gear to 1st gear and then leave the cluch slowly and turn the acceleration handle slowly. and the bike will move then press the cluch and shift the gear to 2nd and do the same to 3rd ,4th and 5th. i am a bajaj pulsar owner a 150cc 5gear bike.
372490
Simple approach:\n\n1 Take courage\n2 Sit on the bike\n3 Spin the bars\n4 Get off\n\nAdvanced users:\n\n\n1 Take courage\n2 Sit on the bike\n3 Pedal furiously until you're blatting along\n4 Lift front wheel to about 30 degrees from horizontal (keep pedalling)\n5 Lean back in the saddle, back straight, finger-tips on bars\n6 Spin the bars\n7 Miss the catch, crash forwards, absorb handlebars through your facial tissues, hit ground at speed\n8 Go to hospital
951359
The simplest and least expensive way is to drop the forks a bit (that is, raise them in the triple clamps), increase the rear spring pre-load, and shave some foam off the seat.  However, those suspension mods will affect handling (sharper steering and stiffer shock action) -- but that might be okay for a learner (if she's not going very fast).\n\nThe next step up is to take your suspension (front and back) to a motorcycle suspension shop where they may be able to reduce the effective ride height of the forks and put a shorter shaft on the shock.  However, I'm not sure that's possible with the stock shock on a TTR230...  Those mods are somewhat pricey though.\n\nYou can also look into lowering linkages for TTR's, though I haven't seen them myself.
1103254
it will work for a few hours than burn out the motor!\n\nso no!\n\n\ntake a cold shower and stand by a fan!
319874
Step 1: Sign up for a Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) course nearby.\n\nStep 2: Follow their teachings.\n\nBut generally, on the right side of the bike the grip is your throttle, the lever by the grip is your front brake, and the pedal by the foot peg is your rear break.\n\nOn the left side, the lever is the clutch and the pedal is the shifter. Start by holding in the clutch and pushing the shifter down to engage 1st gear. Slowly release the clutch as you accelerate and there you go. When the revs get too high, engage the clutch, pull the lever up to shift to 2nd, release clutch, continue accelerating. Repeat as needed.\n\nWhen slowing down, do the oposite to downshift. To stop, using the front brake (right hand lever) for about 75% of your braking power and the rear brake (right foot) for 25%. As you come to a stop, shift to 1st and place your left foot down to provide stability.\n\nEDIT: The above is just merely factual information on how a motorcycle works. There is ALOT more to it, such as proper steering techniques. Get training. Trail and error is both expensive and painful. Besides, the courses are fun and a great way of meeting other bikers. Also, they provide the bikes so you can try before you buy.