how do you remove the firing pin in a bolt action rifle?
93560
It is dependant on the make and model of the rifle you are trying to disassemble. There are several on-line sources for diagrams that might help you. One of the most complete can be found at http://www.e-gunparts.com/aboutschematics.asp . I have used this free resource in the past and found it very helpful.\n\nBe very careful not to bend or distort any parts during disassembly and be aware there may be springs under tension that could cause injury. If your not fully confident undertaking the disassembly, please consult a qualified gunsmith for assistance. Above all make sure the rifle is unloaded and made full safe before beginning any repair or modification
29616
Using a material such as Marinetex or epoxy to fill the gaps between barrel and stock. Generally the barrel is sprayed with release agent (parafin based?) and then the stock material is hogged out on the inside. Then some sort of epoxy is put into the hollow of the stock and the barreled action is reattached and torqued. A day later, the barreled action is removed again and the epoxy is cleaned up.\n\nVariants of this include bedding the action and leaving the barrel free-floating, which makes the action more repeatable without affecting the barrel; and pillar bedding, where steel pillars are permanently fastened to the stock to make positive contact with the barrel.\n\nSo why is this done? Basically, the less an action - or a barrel - moves from shot to shot, the more repeatable the rifle is. Your groups become smaller, and your misses become by much less. I shoot at clay pigeons at 700 yards from time to time, and without a bedded action I'd be off enough from shot to shot that I may never hit the target. Bed the rifle and I can hit it..sometimes :-)
236609
Depends on what you have as far as equipment to work with.  You can drill it out, for this you will need a drill bit that is hardened, like a tungsten carbide bit. what you may want to find is a left handed drill bit because if you can drill into it sometimes it will pull it out as soon as it gets into the part far enough or completely through.\n\nSometimes if you have an aluminum part that you're trying to extract a steel bolt from you can weld a nut to the bolt then turn the bolt out, this is generally for use if a stud is broken off in something.\n\nIt helps if you have a mill or at the very least a drill press if you're going to try to drill the threaded part out.  If you cant then you might call around to machine shops and see what they will charge you to extract it.
924960
disasemble the gun and fix it
802249
Clean the barrel with a 50/50 solution of water and rubbing alcohol and run a soft cloth through it. Clean everything else with paper towels, but not the eyes. Use another soft cloth to wipe them off. You don't want to scratch those. And make sure you oil the bolt and all the o-rings.\n\nThe "eyes" are infra-red beams that detects the paintballs in the chamber. It keeps the gun from firing if a ball hasn't loaded or loaded completely into the chamber, so it doesn't chop it.
947718
It's a Muzzle Brake, like in a car brake. \n\nYou can probably find a clamp-on one that will fit your barrel from Brownell's or Midway for $20 to $30 with uncertain results. \n\nA custom one can set you back $200 to $300 from a smith that knows what he's doing.\n\nI gotta ask, why do you feel you need one?
490217
go to gunpartscorp.com.com (numrich arms), and to make things simple order the catalog. you can find your gun and the parts that you need.\nif it is a m98 turkish mauser,(large ring)replace the barrel with a 45-70govt. barrel. with some modifications it makes an excellent shooter.
412434
im stuck on my ole' 67 remington 1100 semi-auto 12 with modified choke, all originall parts all i have had to do is clean it. they still make it today, but with some changes. ribbed barrell, extra ball sight halfway down the barrel, and now comes with 3" chamber, and screw-in chokes. but ill never have one cause i think mine is going to out-live me
241171
http://berettausa.com  should have the answer
764396
bolt cutters would do the trick
1159512
A TAP OF THE PROPER SIZE AND TREAD PITCH IS NEEDED FOR THIS REPAIR.\n\nIF THIS IS NOT AVAILABLE AND THE NUT IS NOT VERY DAMAGED A PART FROM ANOTHER PAINT GUN OF THE SAME MODEL WHICH HAS THREADS  TO FIT THE NUT CAN BE MODIFIED TO MAKE A LOW TECH TAP BY FILING RELIEFS IN THE PIECE WITH A THREE CORNER FILE AT A RIGHT ANGLE ACROSS THE THREADS AT THREE OR FOUR EVENLY SPACED POSITIONS ARROUND THE THREADED PIECE.
857674
I don't have one in front of me but\n1. make sure unloaded (duh)\n2. pull trigger\n3. with right hand grasp the gun in such a way that you can pull the slide back  a quarter to half an inch with only your right hand. wrap your fingers around the back of the slide and have the web of your pointy finger and thumb on the grip under the slide.\n4.squeeze your right hand this will pull the slide back slightly\n5. While the slide is back with your left hand squeaze the little bar in front of the trigger guard and pull it down then pull the slide towards the muzzle.\nVoila' \nNow with slide in hand push the recoil spring forward lift up and pull out. Then the barrel comes out easily. You are done\n\nI recommend  break free clp for cleaning (buy at walmart or anywhere). With spray tube lightly spray the rails on the frame.\nspray the the inside and outside of the barrel spray the inside and outside of the slide. While you are letting this soak use a brush and cotton swabs to clean the mechanism inside of the frame. clean ALL the Clp off and put a drop of clp on the top of the barrel right in front the chamber and put a drop on the top of the barrel 3/4 of an inch back from the muzzle. Then put a drop on each of the rails on the frame. Put back together. \nA couple of things to add: in spite of my explanation it is easy :pull slide back a little, pull down bar, and slide slides forward. If you use jacketed bullets don't worry about getting the bore (inside of barrel) sparkly. An easy way to clean it is with a bore snake. That's right all you need is a bore snake and a can of clp \nDon't clean your gun after every use. Clean it after a thousand rounds or once or twice a year which ever comes first. Let the arguing begin....
761271
There is a small square button just in front of\nthe trigger,inside the trigger guard. If your\nparticular rifle is the BDL grade there is also\na magizine floor plate release just inside the\nfront of the trigger guard. The floor plate release will allow you to unload the magizne\nwell without cycling the bolt This button, if\nequipped, is half-moon shaped and thin like\na dime.
91098
My guess is that you have to partially insert it (as far as it goes) and pull the trigger, the front of the bolt might be catching on the sear, so thus you have to pull the trigger to let it go forward.\n\nI would also assume that if it came with literature of any sort that it would atleast have a basic break down precedure.
305927
The first thing you need to do is look at the primer on the bullet to see how hard the firing pin is hitting it. If it isn't make a dent then the firing pin may be dirty and it is not hitting the primer hard enough. You might want to try different ammo too. Most likely the problem is the firing pin or bad primers on the bullets.
1075044
There is a problem with the cocking mechanism.  appears that the sear, (which holds the bolt back) isn't engaging and that is why it keeps firing.  I can't tell you more without actually seeing inside your gun.
971406
are the Truvativ cranks euro or american. Meaning do the bearings press in or thread in. Generally the first thing to taking the cranks off is loosening just the left side crankarm bolt. This bolt is located at the end of the spindle and generally is a larger 8mm allen bolt. On some occasions you may need to loosen a side pinch bolt as well. Once that is loose you need to remove the arm. Sometimes the arm slides off and other times it doesn't. The best tool to use is a crank arm puller but if that is unavailable you could use a ratchet extension and a hammer. The crank arm puller will thread into the internal threads on the arm and by tightening the crank arm puller you will be pressing the spindle the opposite way forcing the arm off. If you use a bolt and a hammer. be sure to make sure the bolt is large enough to not go inside of the threads of the spindle yet small enough to fit inside the crank arm head. You will just pound towards the spindle and the arm will go the other way, unless of course its a european bottom bracket. In that case you will have to use a crank arm puller because the cups thread in and cannot be pressed out. Once the arm is removed a spanner wrench or a thin screwdriver will take out the threaded european cup if its american and not threaded all you will have to do is tap the cup and bearing out. if you have any questions forward me an email at ashesoverpompeii@yahoo.com