How to I get rid of blood stains on clothing?
82628
Hydrogen peroxide is the best!!
440552
I know this sounds funny, but get some fabric softeners and rub them all over you.  It helps with the static electricity of clothes, but it can also help with general static electricity.
184790
Actually, get a soap like "Lava" soap and scrub away. It actually stains your skin "orange", so you'll have to use an abrasive soap that exfoliates very well. I suggest using a scrub pad also. Caution: USE LOTS OF MOISTURIZER!!!
48836
I've heard that liquid fabric softener works! It also works for stained coffee pots!
87444
squeeze some lemon juice (the natural one right from a real fresh lemon) and rub some salt into it and leave it for a few minutes in the sun. Then wash it off with warm water.\n\nThis only works if you haven't yet used any detergent on the stain, of course.
51261
1.   Dab stain with denatured alcohol using a soft, white cloth. (Image 1)  \n  \n2.   Rub dishwashing detergent gently into the stain with your finger. (Image 2)  \n  \n3.   Try using a stain stick and leaving it on for several minutes before washing, if the mark is stubborn. (Image 3)  \n  \n4.   Wash fabric as usual.  \n  \n5.   Ask your dry cleaner for help if all else fails.
443191
If you have stains from it I suggest washing in COLD water and pre treating with Shout. If you are talking about yellow stains on white shirts in the underarm area, there is NOTHING you can do about it.
864505
Windex works, so does rubbing alcohol. Use paper towel.
806840
The best thing for removing a fat or oil stain -- or the oily component of a more complex stain such as salad dressing or gravy (once it's dry) -- is to rub cornstarch (or cornstarch powder, or even talcum powder) into the stain , let it sit for at least 20 minutes, and then brush it off with a dry washcloth or soft dry brush. You may need to repeat the treatment several times to fully remove the fat. It works especially well on silk and wool. So well, in fact, that further washing (or dry cleaning) is not needed.
1171352
Laundry detergents remove stains in a least 5 different ways :\n\n1. Most laundry detergents are alkaline. Being alkaline, they effectively act to saponify vegetable and animal fats and oils (turning the oils into a soap in the process) which are soluble/dispersable in water. So, things like sweat and sebum (skin oil) present in collar and cuff stains are partially solublised by the alkali.\n\n2. Laundry detergents contain a variety of different surfactants (sometimes called "tensides") that make the water "wetter" allowing the water to penetrate the stains, oils and soils present in dirt. The surfactant then bundles the dirt up in a little ball (called a miscelle) and floats it off the surface of the fabric.\n\n3. Many detergents contain a bleaching agent - usually either sodium percabonate or sodium perborate, which form hydrogen peroxide when dissolved, or sometimes a product like "chlorinated trisodium phosphate" which forms hypochlorite bleach when dissolved. These bleaches act on stains to decolourise them via oxidation.\n\n4. Most detergents contain a blend of enzymes which help to break down stains. Usually there is :\n\nA protease - which helps to break-down proteins (found in sweat, food stains, grass stains, etc).\n\nAn amylase - which helps to break-down sugars and starches\n\nA lipolase - which helps to break-down fats and oils.\n\nSome more modern powders also contain an enzyme known as "care-zyme", actually a cellulase, which helps to breakdown cellulose. Now, cotton is a cellulosic material so the addition of this enzyme works by breaking down part of the material it is cleaning. Luckilly, the enzyme is only capable of working on VERY fine bits of cellulose - no more than a few microns - so the result is that "carezyme" sort of dissolves the "fluffy bits" (known as "prilling") which you find on older clothes - the clothes wind up looking newer and cleaner!\n\n5. Most detergents contain  "optical brighteners" - compounds which absorb UV light and re-emit the light in the visible spectrum (usually at the blue end - to give a "blue-white" look which westerners regards as "clean" - but in some countries - Brazil, for example - they are tailored to give a "red-white" which is regarded as "clean" in those countries).\n\nThese five different and distinct parts of the powder act synergistically to give better cleaning than "soap and water".
196681
Honestly, water and vinegar.  it really works with no streaks.
462863
1. Lightly brush the spot with a stiff-bristled toothbrush. Doing this breaks up the blood clot and gets circulation going again.\n2. The redness will spread, but will be less obvious after about 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, make sure to cool it down with a bit of ice. Repeat if necessary.\n3. Finish off the small pink spot that remains with make up: put yellow eyeshadow or other eyeshadow that matches your skin tone, to the spot and cover the rest (with the hickey too) with concealer. No one will ever notice! \n\n\n* Sometimes if you add a bit of toothpaste to the brush, it will help clear up any redness faster.\n* In the future, get and give hickeys where they won't be easily found -- or don't get one at all! \n\nThings You'll Need\n\n* Toothbrush\n* eyeshadow of your skin tone\n* Concealer\n* Toothpaste (optional)
380457
I'm not sure but probably, first try a spot that won't be noticed. Check the label on the clothes and see if says anything about how to clean it. Hope that helps.
905880
Use carpet cleaner or Resolve stain remover and take 2 aspirin and drink a V8 or tomato juice
159450
First check and make sure your bleach has not expired.\n\nTry drying it outside, sun fades stains.\n\nOr using Shout, Oxyclean, Zout, Ect.\n\nAlso put a laundry booster in with your detergent helps. (borax, arm & hammer booster, ect.)\n\nFinally Dont use cold water, try warm or hot.\n\nBut watever you do dont put it in the dryer. It will set the stain and it will never come out.
828910
I got this from About.com\nHope it helps\n\nWhen it comes to cleaning suede footwear, the old adage "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" definitely applies. \n\nTreating your suede or nubuck shoes with a protective spray or finish will help to repel water and prevent stains. If that ship has already sailed, at least you'll know for future reference to protect before wearing. \n\nIn the meantime, here are some tips for cleaning suede shoes and boots after stains have already set. \n\nRemember to first test any treatment or product on a small inconspicuous area before tackling a large stain, and only use products designed specifically for the material of your footwear (suede, nubuck, smooth leather, etc.). \n\nFor heavy stains on suede footwear, use a suede cleaning block (also called a suede eraser). These products will crumble as you rub them across the surface of the footwear, and are great for removing even deeply embedded dirt. \n\nAfter cleaning, the nap of your suede can be restored by using a suede brush. The bristles of suede brushes are usually made from brass, and often you can find both the cleaning block and the brush in one kit.
142579
There is soap called Sins Be Gone that works on demon stains too. \n\nhttp://www.evolvefish.com/fish/SinCleanerProducts.html