I need some energy efficiency tips for gas home furnace.?
92365
set you thermostat back 4 degrees at night and when you go to work or out and then when you wake up or get back set the thermostat back to where you normally keep it. they also have programable thermostats that will do it for you.
404915
Drive less. Get a tune up, in general use less gas.
842595
You measure the amount of fuel put in.  Using the flow of that fuel (cubic feet per hour), you then determine the amount of energy in each cubic foot of that fuel (or look it up - Natural gas is 1020 btu/cubic foot).  Then measure the amount of heat given off and the amount of electric produced.  \n\nEnergy out (Btu's) / Energy in (Btu's) = efficiency.  \n\nYou need to convert the electric out to btu's by multiplying the kW to Btu's (multiply by 3412).  With the heat given off, you need to determine the temperature of the exhaust and the amount of air flow of that temperature and that will give you the thermal side of the output.
458975
Try Thermo.com/neslab contact them with any questions you have.
957721
Its not the heaters that produce the monoxide unless something is wrong with the pilot in your heater. Your best bet is to buy a carbon monoxide detector (probably like $15 at a hardware store) and plug it in the room your in the most or where you see fit. That way you will know when something is wrong and you'll rest easy. I feel mine saved my family when my dumba** sister used a powerwasher INSIDE the house!! Good luck!
1181546
changed all my light bulbs to low wattage, never turn lights on til absolutely necessary, never leave mobile phone cgarger plugged in (costs approx £10 a year if you do), I don't have a shower so bath/stripwash alternate days, have a hippo bag in the toilet cystern which saves approx 2 litres of water every flush, when running off water from cold tap keep a jug handy for 'waste' water, any spare boiled water gets saved in a flask for coffee, washing up etc (saves running the hot tap off til it's hot), never use the washing machine unless I have a full load, use half the recommended quantity of washing powder or tablets, never run machine above 50c, always do washing overnight on economy meter,  turned down the immersion heater, use the microwave/steamer daily, only use the oven when it's full,  batch bake and freeze (remember to take food out of the freezer to defrost naturally, not in the microwave), always buy meat, fruit and veg  from the market (it's fresher, cheaper and saves on packaging, therefore a drop of oil on plastic) plan car trips so that I do everything at once, ie visit the post office, do shopping, go to recycling centre etc, try to stick to 55mph for best fuel consumption, buy most of my clothes and small gifts from charity shops (but don't tell my family <blush>) recycle envelopes by sticking home made labels over the old address, recycle gift wrap, make my own gift tags from old cards with pinking shears, a hole punch and some thread from my needlework box, have stopped junk mail even if it only saves a twig a year, don't buy the latest cleaning products with this and that extra additive, my house shines on vinegar, salt, beeswax and recyled cotton clothes for dusters, etc etc etc....I guess you could  say I've made a few changes to my lifestyle!
775164
it requires money but gas is expensive much more than electricity. i can tell you that gas isnt more cost effective and if converting to propane into a vehicle the milage is 5 to 7 mpg. electricity is generated by coal or fuel oil and very bad for our ozone layer.i wouldnt have an exact figure for conversion to lpg for a home but you would need a 10000 watt generator and a 5000 gallon propane take.natural gas is far more expensive than propane.i can fill a 20 pound tank for ten bucks.the generator will cost about 1500.00 dollars or more if you purchase a kohler.they are made for homes but tthey use gas or diesel fuel.
601359
What type of oil fired plant are you refering to steam boiler/turbine or combustion turbine used in either the simple cycle or combined cycle mode. For a steam cycle, and without considering the practicality, one can add feedwater heaters, replace the turbine or install more efficient internals, increase steam pressure/temperature, better burners, more efficient motors, install variable speed drives on the bigger fan (forced draft, induced draft) motors, better insulation.\n\nNot sure how to do this.\n\nSome additional thoughts.\n\n>How clean do you keep the condenser?\n>Ditto for FW heaters. Do you calculate LMTD for the heaters?\n>Do your operators maintain all the parameters, e.g., SH temperature that affect heat rate? Do they have a HR parameter display, HR goals?\n>How clean is your turbine? When was it last opened? Washed?\n>Have you tested for seal leakage HP to IP?\n>Don't know your mode of operation, i.e., base, peaking, but do you use full arc or partial arc admission?\n>If your a peaker, and assuming you're not a UP, have you looked at variable pressure operation?\n>Peaking or cycling - have you optimized your start ups? Do you bottle up the boiler?\n>How clean is the boiler, especially, SH and RH passes?\nAdded:\n>GE and W used to offer high efficiency L-0 blades. How old is your unit? Do you have these blades installed?\n>Have you looked for hard particle erosion on your nozzle block and 1st stage blades?\n>Do you chemically clean the boiler? Do you have chordal thermocouples installed?\n>What condition is your air preheater in?
127568
1.  Do the easy things first.  Make sure that air gets to the air cooling system; clear leaves, dead raccoons, etc.\n\n2.  Since this is a chilled water system, make sure the water (or other fluid) is chemically correct.\n\n3.  Make sure the compressors are compressing properly, the pumps are pumping, and the fans are blowing.\n\n4.  If you get to #4, you're in major retrofit/replace territory.  You might get away with retrofitting with water cooling.  Otherwise, you'll have to gut the thing and start over with a bigger system.
809029
First of all, what you are proposing is very dangerous. Doing this indoors will require a linked active exhaust fan and vent. In other words you can not turn on the gas without the vent fan operating and should the fan fail, the link would turn off the gas automatically - no if's, and's, or but's. Should the gas be on and the pretty dancing flame get put out, the next open flame or spark the gas finds turns the house into matchsticks. Second, your ring of fire will heat the glass with an excellent chance of breaking it depending on the size of the tank and thickness of the glass. You see, the glass under the water will remain cool while the glass above the water is allowed to heat up, now the glass becomes very stressed because of the differing expansion rates within the same piece of glass. This makes this a dumb idea even outside. You know what - I think I just talked myself out of telling you how to do this, sorry.
658276
Adding humidity will help,especially if you can and it to your furnace (accuair is its name) you can try nasal sprays like afrin,but you HAVE to follow the directions on it or try lightly rubbing vasoline inside your nose right before you retire for the night.But humidity is the biggest thing to try and add.Good luck
131070
"2. Use less power - take a shower!\n\nSometimes a Myth, but sometimes True\nThe Government pushed this one heavily in the mid-1990s; I have a nice badge showing a dinosaur taking a shower. But in practice the answer is a lot more complex. The easiest way to test this out is to put the plug in the bath next time you have a shower, and see how much it fills up. If, at the end of the shower, there is less water than you would usually have in a bath, then you will probably save money by taking a shower. But it's not quite that simple... \n\nThe simple answer assumes that you are using the same source to heat water for the bath and the shower. This will be the case if you are using your central heating boiler or an immersion heater. But a lot of British homes have a "Power Shower" that uses electricity to provide a powerful and instant shower. Not only do they use water more quickly than a shower fed from a hot water system, they also use on-peak electricity that costs around 7p a unit, compared to 2p for gas. At this point it gets complicated, as to give a firm answer you would also need to know the efficiency of your heating boiler, the amount of insulation on the hot water tank and the losses on the pipework between the tank and your shower.\n\nIn fact, it may not make any difference either way, if you are using the central heating boiler to warm the water. For in most cases, especially in summer, we leave the boiler on for a fixed period of time, allowing it to heat up the tank of water. If the bath or shower is drawn off after the end of a water heating period, it will not affect the heating cost on the day it was used (for that has already happened) but on the next heating cycle. And if the tanks cools down then it will not be significantly affected by how much hot water was used after the previous cycle. "
931550
adjust the ratio of gas that mixes with air for combustion
846642
http://www.gaslink.org/resources_gasconvertiontable.aspx\nhttp://www.worldenergy.org/wec-geis/publications/reports/ser/conv.asp\nhttp://www.ex.ac.uk/~TWDavies/energy_conversion/calorific%20values%20of%20fuels.htm\nHope this helps, good luck!
772064
change all your lightbulbs to the energy saving flourescent ones.  and try and carpool when necessary to save on gas.  Turn your thermostat down a few degrees and just be aware.
200962
Turn off and on is the best way, change your bulbs to ones rated for Energysaving, change your appliances to Energuide branded.\n\nMake sure all your windows and doorways are sealed (helps with fires too!), adjust your heating and cooling for a moderate temperature
645770
What environment are you in?\n\nWind or hydro might be better options depending on local conditions. also depending on local skills and suppliers. see appropriate technology site