how to construct simple +15 volt power supply?
89341
Just buy the plugpack.\n\nIf you want more amps, or variable volts, be specific.
294910
Current PC power supplies (I'm assuming a desktop or tower style power supply here) have several types of wiring coming out of them. I'll list them with comments. \n\n--Flat 4-pin inline wite plastic connectors, lots of them. These are power connectors for devices like disk drives. Polarized and can't be inserted backwards. Usually 4 multiply colored heavy guage wires to each connector. Not all of these must be connected.\n\n--Large 2 row white plastic connector (about 20 pins) which is the main power conenctor to the motherboard. Also polarized and can't be inserted backwards. 1 of these. Must be connected to the motherboad.\n\n--Small 4-pin connector, perhaps as many as two. Power connector for small drives (like 3.5" floppy drives). Not all need to be connected to drives.\n\n--Up to two additional connectors for the motherboard. One will have 4 pins, and one 6 pins (if memory serves). They are polarized and can't be inserted backwards. These are additional power supply lines for high current motherboard circuits. If present, and the motherboard has matching sockets, they should be connected. If the motherboard has no matching connectors, leave unconnected. If the power supply doesn't have them, and the motherboard does, stop. Carefully consider the total current draw of the various components on the motherboard and attached to it. You might have to (likely will have to) get another power supply to safely satisfy the motherboard's needs.\n\nIt may be useful to know that a great many power supplies don't actually behave very well. It's not easy to design a reliable supply with good perforomance at a reasonable price and in the size constraints within which a standard power supply must fit. A misbehaving power supply can damage your motherboard, the CPU, and everything plugged into it (expensive graphic card, perhaps?). If you've gotten a power supply made by someone you've never heard of, you might want to find a local hobbyist (or perhaps better a HAM radio operator) who can test the supply for you. \n\nPC Power and Cooling have a sterling reputation for the quality and reliabilty of their power supplies. Antec is also well thought of. Neither costs so much as to justify the risk of frying several hundred dollars of CPU, graphics card, motherboard, etc. \n\nSAFETY NOTE: These power supplies have lethal voltages inside. They are NOT safe to open, unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing, and even then they're dangerous as all get out. Furthermore, those lethal voltages will still be present for more than a few minutes after power is removed. Also note that many modern ATX and compatible machiens DO NOT turn off the power supply even when the front panel "power switch" is pushed and the computer shuts down. Most of the time they remain in 'warm' mode when apparently "off", and are still operating even when the computer itself isn't. Stay out of power supply innards! The only certain way to be sure the power supply is completely off (though it will remain dangerous for many minutes) is to remove the power cable. Putting it in a drawer, and closing the drawer, before doing anything further is quite sensible.
1002902
Hi,\n\nI would also recommend to get a 500Watt Power Supply. But the more the merrier. Currently a 600Watt will hold whatever setup you have installed.\nJust make sure you buy a good brand power supply.\nHere are my brand recommendations:\nAntec,PC Power & Cooling,Enermax,Sea Sonic and Thermaltake is also good.
297532
Purchase a volts-adjustable power converter, otherwise you will zap your contraption.  Some can plug into a cigarette lighter socket and some can be wired directly to a twelve-volt battery.  Wallmart may still sell them, it's been some years since I've purchased any of em.
13376
I believe you can 'short' thru a couple of pins and the PSU will operate but I don't know which ones.\n\nI can tell you to check out pimprig.com. They are a computer modding website and I'm sure the question has been answered there recently.
824800
You can use an integrated circuit, like LTC6906 from Linear Technology which goes up to 1MHz at 2.25 - 5VDC supply,\nsee:  http://www.linear.com/pc/downloadDocument.do?navId=H0,C1,C1010,C1096,P9790,D6998\nAlternative: MAX5094A by Maxim,  see:  http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/5017\nI didn't have the time to check the output power, but if it's not enough, a simple emitter stage transistor will do.
739136
Go get a new 450+W PSU. This way, there are no worries. A calculator is linked below.
387324
If its a 12v power supply you need then i think Radio shack should have a suiteable replacement  and they have power supplies with changeable polarity. Ebay has them but a lot of looking to find one .
787963
Actually no. I think there is about 5 volts DC. I guess the amount of power available depends on the computer, but it's probably very small. Maybe less that 500ma.
579021
I think you meant WATTS versus volts. You will need to inspect your power supply for that information.\n You need to check out he following website, for more info on what you will truly need 250W sounds a bit low by today's standards - http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
943748
use voltage dividers with a transistorized switch.  this method lights  a number of lights matching the input voltage in this case, all the way up the tree to it, rather than just one, so note that.  (7V in gives 7 lamps on).\n\nthe first transistor comes on if the base reaches .7V (2N2222 or so will work).  the next transistor is attached to the base of the first transistor through a voltage divider, the third ....  From the collector stick in a 1V Zener for regulation (make sure you get one that withstands 12v in), and the lights then go from there straight to ground (include a resistor here to limit current, try 15 ohms to start, experiment!).\n\ndecide how many lights you want, divide your final voltage by that number, and that is the voltage per step (here, 1V).  the voltage divider then comes from the voltage per step versus the transistor base ON voltage, across a good sized resistor (say 470 ohms or 1k, whatever you want (watch the current and the power drain here).  in your case, if you use a 470 load resistor on the voltage divider, then the second leg of the divider is (470 / (1V/1V-.7V)) = 141 is about a 130 (less is more on the base!).\n\nrecap:\n\nso the voltage divider goes from the input into the 130, into both the base and the 470, the 470 goes to ground.  the emitter can tie to the input voltage, the collector goes to a 1V Zener, to a 1V lamp, a small resistor, and ground.\n\nthe other stages stack right onto this.  the input still goes to the 130, then to the base and the 470, the 470 ties to the base of the previous stage.  the emitter again goes to the input voltage, and the collector goes to a 1V Zener, a 1V lamp, and a small resistor to ground.  sorry, i can't attach a picture here.
451802
use crucial.com\n\nyour ram is 2.5v
929646
Depending on the output current you desire and what current the +24 VDC can supply a simple 3-terminal regulator like a 7812 should do the trick. It should be able to handle the 24 V input. You may need to add a 0.01µF Cap from Ground to the +5 VDC output to dampen any oscillations. There are usually a number of cookbook circuits in the data books. \n\nGood Luck!
1184742
200 W is not much for modern computers.  I assume that if you don't add anything, things keep working.  The power supply need not explode or catch fire.  More likely the voltage levels drop under overload, and things stop working.
438317
What you are doing is building a battery, an acid based battery.  take a lemon, get a strip of copper and a strip of zinc from chemistry class, or use pennies and dimes.  insert the metal stips in opposite sides of the fruit and connect a wire to each strip.  with this you will get about a .5volts, take 2 or three and wire is series and you can light a small flashlight bulb or run a small motor.\n\nsee the following  http://www.hilaroad.com/camp/projects/lemon/lemon_battery.html
686840
There should be a power connection. If not, ask your vendor. Otherwise, for installation, visit here:
696778
The best method depends on the amount of current through the circuit.  If you are just talking about 10 mA then LEDs could be used.  Red LEDs will drop about 2.2 volts per LED.\n(check the specifications on the LEDs, they range from about 1.75 volts to 2.3  volts)