how do i wire heat warmers for a 2001 skidoo summit 800 snowmobile?
82167
you could hook it up to a hot source like a key-on source.use a toggle switch.didnt it come with instructions?do a google search and you will find snowmobile tech sites that can help.
1153457
go to radioshack...they sell basic instruction manuals, circuits and all the bits you'll need
229836
Yes, thru the computer. Use a scan tool to access the trouble code and make the repair.If no trouble code is found, check the ground wires to the gages. It will be in the "din" plug to the instument panel. Check a Chiltons manual for wire color code
318461
Depends on what you need.  I work for a manufacturer of heat transfers.  Tell me what you need and maybe I can help you out.
347767
make sure your jumpers, the match the cable configuration.  I would make the burner jumpers set to cable select and the DVD to slave.. Make sure the plug has the DVD connected to the slave end and the burner to the master end.  If this doesn't work then post this question on sharkyforums.com.  They will help you out.
84239
Try heat. (Or wire strippers if it is infact a wire.)
317786
http://www.electrospec.com/electronic/components-parts/index350.html\n\ntry here!!
23844
A very good question -- in my experience the key to good control is placement and mass of the temperature sensor.\n\nYou can use a thermocouple or an RTD (resistance temperature device) depending on your temperature range.\n\nBut in most factory process controls the biggest problem is how to make sure that the sensor is measuring the ambient temperature, or the temperature of the object being heated. If any radiant heat energy falls on the sensor, you will get meaningless temperature readings.\n\nIn some cases a simple reflective shield will allow the sensor to measure the ambient temperature.\n\nSometimes the sensor is embedded in either the object or in a dummy object with similar characteristics. After all your goal is to control the RIGHT temperature, not just any temperature.\n\nThe sources below give a typical easy to use PID controller and a high power SSR.\n\nThe controller has an autotune function -- this is very key because tuning a PID controller can be very frustrating. You can end up with wildly cycling kooky results unless you are experienced.\n\nRemember that a Proportional Integrating Controller is a big step up from a bang-bang on off relay type controller. \n\nProportional just means that it can send a small milliamp signal to the Solid State Relay allowing it to proportionally adjust the heat output of your resistance heaters.\n\nIntegrating can be interpreted to mean that the PID takes into account the amount of heat you have already pumped into the system. So it can avoid shooting a big pulse of heat into an oven which it already knows is pretty fired up already.\n\nAnd Derivative means it watches the rise or fall of the temperature curve to prevent overshooting and undershooting. This keeps the temperature from varying wildly. Maybe! Depends on if you know how to tune it.\n\nGive these folks a phone call, they offer free application consulting, even for small projects.
751922
http://bartman1.blogspot.com/ go here follow directions in driver section
439296
give me details my brothers warming up the car
208872
http://www.xpcgear.com/systemcoolers.html?gclid=COf91oHTh4QCFQ5oSAodqmk7ig
1170073
plug it in, flip it on
205842
by buying an cord from radioshack
130321
all i could find is a holly rebuilt carb from summit racing...part # HLY-64-7224...also any particular carb with same mounting pattern of your choosing
199541
You will need to get a DMM (digital multi meter)...Walmart has these pretty cheap.  \n\n1) Before doing anything else, check the fuses again.\n\n2) Unlug your fan from the harness it is comming from.  Put the DMM on continuity (ohms) or if it has the tone option, put it there.  Now put the 2 leads together (probe to probe). Take note of what the display says.  Now put one probe on one wire comming from the plug on the fan, and do the same with the other probe on the other pin. Your display should read the same (continuity) or beep.  If it does, your fan is good.\n\n3) Now put that DMM on DC voltage (12 volt range up to 25, depending on DMM).  Again, one lead on one wire, other lead to the other wire.  Start your car, and turn on your a/c (this activates the fan circuit regardless of temperature).  If you get power, you know your relay is fine.  Now turn off your a/c and let the engine heat up to normal.  If your power does not come back, you have a temperature switch gone bad.  If it does, you have a problem with the fan (which you should have found in the last step).\n\nHope this helps!
423967
first connect all grounds then take the  neutral on the transformer to your  receptacle neutral then  take one live wire from the receptacle to the switch and from the switch to the transformer being that it is two pole you will take a wire from each pole and take each "hot leg" wire to a separate "live" connection point on the transformer, provided that it is a two phase connection
935285
http://www.frostwire.com