how to make a costum billet grills chrome?
90403
have it chromed....its dipped in chemicals, nickel ect..or you coulg get an electro plater..or have it electro plated..not as good as dipping..also buff and polish the daylights out of it till you get a mirror finish
812205
Put a metal which has higher activity than Silver
170896
You dip the metal you want plated into a solution containing ions of the metal you want to plate with, such as chromium (chrome).  The dipped metal is attached to an electrical current, which induces a redox reaction.  The actual chemistry is a little more complicated, but the easy version is that those metal ions become solid metal attached to the electrode (the metal that you dipped in the solution).  The new metal is now permanently bonded to the old metal, and you have a set of chrome rims.
1048153
Coals, preferably Kingsford.  Gas grills are only good for veggie kabobs and singeing your eyebrows off! OUCH! You're right he's wrong.  Make him wash the dishes!
1082969
Grill up some steaks!
819097
Erm dont know if this will help at all, my wonderful fountain of knowledge (aka my wife) has suggested that you gently rub some baby oil on it, apparently it removes scratches from silver finishes and also cleans it, its certainly knowledge to me, but she normally surprises me with her vast amount random information.\nAlso nice and cheap, hope it works for you, and if it does please can you let me know.\n\nGood Luck
315655
Get a can of stripeze....careful when using tho...highly flammable. follow instructions and do it outdoors. DONT bead or sand blast them! If you do you will never get the polished look back! Rinse them good. Get some simichrome polish or other type of polishing compound. Be ready to use some elbow grease...you might want to buy a buffing disk for your electric drill.
786190
Try the Sheetmetal Contractors Association  its somthing like SMACA .\n\nFabrication is not the hard part.   Laying out the various fittings may be more than you want to do.\n\nThere are software packages available that will do the layout work for you but all I've seen are pretty expensive.
112405
It is evidently the chrome, etc. covering of plastic parts to make them gleam bright.  It may start with non-electrolytic coating(s) that can then be electroplated.
957199
If you are doing it in a laboratory setting, you can mix it with carbon and reduce it to the metal. You will need high temperatures, though.
71181
to prevent rust/oxidation
731546
Go to the Formica website - its a full colour display of the whole process.
557304
Having owned wooden sailing yachts for 30 years and lived aboard and cruised them in the Caribbean and made a living as a  boatbuilder:\nOakum is good only on larger boats with big gaping seams and something solid behind them, ie the garboard or along the stem/transom, as oakum is a big hairy thing that takes along time to expand and then really expands and can blow the planking off a boat...saw it happen NOT pretty.\n\nWhat has worked for about 500 years is cotton caulking..it comes in along long skein from Distributors and Defender Industries, you pull out  a few feet at a time, twist it  so its now a tightly twisted line of cotton about , oh, the size of a pencil, and drive it into the seem with a caulking iron, which looks like a fat putty knife and is also available from Jamestown. It takes a while to develop the feel for setting the cotton deep enough to putty over without driving it all the way through; if a seam is really open, you might have to wind the cotton a little looser, say tot he diameter of a crayon and push it gently in rather than drive it in... Paint the caulking with a thin coat of paint, then under the water line use Pettits brown seam compound; above the waterline Pettits white seam compound. Both remain flexible for a goodly while and if protected by paint wont crumble out. Epoxy will NOT work; the plank swelling will spit it out.\nThere is a fair amount of controversy about using 3-Ms 5200 under the waterline and Life Caulk above.it's not old timey, its not traditional, but it works.\nRemember if the boat has been out a while and the seams need a lot of caulking...cotton, putty, 5200....as the planks swell they will force out the putty/5200, and you will have to scrape and sand and repaint the topsides until the wood is swollen to where it wants to be...\nSeams that have shrunk so you can see daylight will swell back up..but it may take several days..when you first launch the boat  be prepared for a lot of water coming in...(I needed a crash pump to back up two 1750 bilge pumps after being out for 6 months...)if you can, hose the boat down inside and out a few days before launching...use LOTS of water..it will save a lot of Ohmygod we're sinking trauma at launch...\n\nThere is a magazine devoted to fools like us with wooden boats. Its called (DUH) WoodenBoat, web site is www.woodenboat.com. Filled with all sorts of do it yourself tips and references and books and good stuff..Start reading it today.
1125786
melt the wax ,, pour into a square mold... when set.. cut to desired size with electric knife..
1127977
I've not done it myself, but tere are a lot of suggestions out there:\nhttp://www.newtutorials.com/metal-text-tutorial.htm\nhttp://www.elated.com/tutorials/graphics/photoshop/brushed_metal/\n\nAlso, check out (the master himself): Russell Brown's video podcast on iTunes (The Russell Brown Show) or more tips on his website http://russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html\n\nAdobe also has tutorials:\nhttp://studio.adobe.com/us/search/sort?x=13&y=11&sort=date&product=15&topic=0&type=all&level=all\n\nThis is a cool techinique to learn also:\nhttp://www.creativepro.com/story/howto/24197.html
189151
This tool might help you.\nhttp://www.crabhawk.com/
1184576
gently heat the nib end  with a lighter or match  that should do the trick