I am new into photography as a business, one of my customers have asked if they could get an A2 size print.   My question is, will an A2 size print be clear enough from a canon 5d iii image (No Crop).
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What size images do I need for common print sizes, such as wallet size, 8x10, and 16x20?  Is there a general formula?  How could that size change if, for example, a 16x20 was printed on canvas rather than photopaper?
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I am a newbie to the new camera I just bought. It is a Nikon D5200 it has the original lens that came on the camera a 18-55 lens on it. My question is when I turn the lens to the 55 and then push the plus and minus buttons at the bottom of my camera to zoom in it appears to be zooming in and then I take the photo and the picture is not zoomed in at all.    I have a new Canon T3i and was able to take and capture zoomed in photos with the lens that came with the camera (EF-S 18-55mm) as well as a Canon zoom lens EF 75-300mm 1:4-5.6. Now when I zoom in with either lens and take a photo, when I review it, it shows original image before zooming. Is it a defect in the camera or inexperience of the operator?    (Two separate questions from separate users but with the same root cause.)
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I have a great passion for photography. I own a normal Canon digital camera of 10 megapixel. I would like to learn more about the various techniques, tips for taking great pictures so that I an enthusiast currently can become a professional someday. Please let me know how this can be achieved.
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Let me start by saying I'm a newbie to photography and appreciate all help! I purchased a camera "package" on Amazon.  This 33rd Street Deluxe Bundle Includes : Canon EOS Rebel T5i DSLR Camera with Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Lens.   2.2x HD AF Telephoto Lens 0.43x HD AF Wide Angle Lens   There were other standard items included but I'm concerned about these two add-on lenses. I can't figure out how to attach them. My book says EF lenses and these are AF lenses. Did I purchase lenses that won't work on my camera? I really need to know quick so I can return the package if they can't be used. Again, any and all help is greatly appreciated!
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I have been designing graphics for years.  I have gone through a dozen printers.  I have not found any difference in the printing of my 300 resolution images, and the 100 resolution, I changed the 300 resolution to.  Changing from 300 resolution to 100 saves space and I find no difference in quality or size of printed image.  Am I missing something?
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Creating high-quality photo prints using an ink jet printer is no trivial matter. Depending on the tonal range and color depth desired and the expected viewing platform, how you approach printing may differ. The choices you make when printing also affect how effectively you are using your printers capabilities, resolution, and ink.  So, how does one generate high quality photo prints using professional ink jet printers, such as  or , while maximizing the use of ink and the printers capabilities?     Empirical Studies:     (New!!)
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I am an amateur photographer as far as event photography is concerned. I have done private event shoots only for my family and friends (weddings on two occasions and few new born and other small events).  Last weekend, I was invited to do a wedding photo shoot for an office colleague in local Bay Area, California. Apparently, they did not find any professional photog on a short notice, so they called me as they know I am a good photog.  I spent about 6 hours at the event in total and additional couple of hours in post-processing the pictures. I showed them some selected pictures and they loved them. They do not want any prints or albums. They just want soft copies of the selected photos. And now I have to tell the total price of my service.   I am not really sure how much I should charge for this event.  Any help in suggesting how I should go about determining the price of this service would be appreciated.  I don't know if this will help but here's what I shot with: Canon 5D MII, Canon 24-105 f4 IS, Canon Speedlite 430EX II and on the spare Canon T3i, Canon 50 f1.8.
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What focal length or range of focal lengths are usually used for portraits?   What is used by professionals? Why would one select a certain focal length? What are the advantages and disadvantages of different choices, and are there certain situations where an unusual choice might be better?
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For wall-sized graphics and large banners (e.g. 3m × 5m), what is an acceptable PPI for print? As I understand it 300 ppi is the typical for 'small' artworks (esp. for clean text resolution). However, for small artworks, the audience usually engages at a much closer distance. Therefore, in the interests of keeping a bitmap file down to a reasonable size, can you get away with a much-reduced PPI for a large format/banner print?
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We have a question and answers outlining the . I'm interested in the other DSLR makers, and how the cameras they make compare in terms of significant features, system design philosophy, and unique or interesting photographic capabilities enabled or made easier by these cameras. Likewise, what such things are not handled as well?  Take "the big two have more market share" and the associated advantages of availability, accessibility, and third-party support and documentation .  I'm not interested here in compact cameras, interchangeable-lens cameras with electronic viewfinders, or in rangefinders. (If you're interested in that, though, see )  P.S.: Differences in lens lineups are covered at
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I just picked up photography a few months ago as a hobby (not planning to go professional at all), but will be getting good gear and glass over time. Right now I have a T3i, which I'm considering upgrading to a 7D or probably a used 5d Mk II next year.  For my next lens purchase, I'm considering a 70-200 L lens, I'm just not sure which one to go for.  I'm deciding between the 70-200 2.8 L with no IS, or the 70-200 f4 L with IS.  My thinking is the following:   While I do not plan to photograph weddings or anything like that, I do plan to use the lens to take pictures of my kid on school plays over the years, so I'm guessing the 2.8 would be useful there? He's not on school yet, but I hear flash is not allowed there? How would the f4 fare in such situations? I have the 18-135 kit lens with IS...I turned off the Image Stabilization on the lens, and was able to take decent pictures handheld with not-so-fast shutter speeds (1/15, 1/20's), although I do NOT have a good pulse. Would being able to do this translate well to using the 2.8 with no IS? Most of the shooting with the 70-200 will probably be done outside..just that case of shooting plays or a concert or too.   So..what should I do? Anything I'm not considering?
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I do mockups and prototypes of sites and designs all the time, but I've always wondered if there is a standard size or width I should be using. Generally I'll make my document either 1024, 1200, or 2560px wide, depending on what I'm doing.  So what do you think? What is a good or standard size for this?
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I'm a beginner at photography and own a Canon 20D with two lens; a 50mm prime and a 17mm-85mm zoom.  I've purchases all my filters at 67mm to fit my zoom lens and use a  to use them with my prime lens.  I'm looking at buying a . My question is, will the same principal work? Can I buy a 67mm wide angle lens and use it on my 52mm prime without any trouble.  One of the reasons for the purchase of a wide angle is my cropped sensor makes the 50mm prime rather close - I'm hoping the wide angle will make it easier to capture more.  Many thanks for any help in advance. Pete
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I am submitting a photo for an exhibit.  They require a jpeg to be evaluated and then a print, if accepted.  The rules indicate "Entries must be in JPEG format sized at 300 dpi on a CD (4” width of image 1,200 pixels at 300 dpi is the largest dimension please)." The final submission will be a maximum of 36" x 36".  I don't see any of this in the photo's properties.  What exactly are they looking for?
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I took two photos - first one with Canon 5D Mark III and the second one with analog Canon EOS 500N. I used the same lens (Canon 50mm ƒ/1.4) and settings (ISO/shutter/aperture) for both of them. The company that developed my films is doing that everyday. They also scanned my analog negatives without any corrections. I noticed that the film is much more brighter than the digital image of the same scene. Left photo is scanned negative and right photo is digital. The digital photos were shot in RAW, opened them in ACR, and then saved them as jpeg. Ilford HP5+ (left), ƒ/1.8, 1/1000, ISO 400 (both):  Kodak Gold 200 (left), ƒ/1.8 1/1000, ISO 200 (both):  I didn't find any answers why this happened. Could there be problems with fixing time or maybe the ISO value of the film differs from the one on the description of the film? Or is film simply brighter?
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I'm trying to reduce the size of my photo. I have tried all solutions given on this website.  My current image size is 159 KB and I have to reduce to 10 KB with 5L x 3.6w.
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I am just another guy who just taken up photography as a social hobby who enjoys taking pics of everyday life, social events / parties &amp; some portraits. Need camera for short overseas trip (2-3 times a year), maybe some landscape pics.   I have done some research and have come up a list of main lenses that I am considering and hope you guys can offer some advice / comments to whether I should make those purchases.   Main reason why I chose "third party lenses" 'cos apparently they cost less, newer and are "award winning" - so I don't see the point of spending more for the original canon lens (which some maybe quite old - ie 3-5 yrs).   Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC MACRO OS HSM Lens (day to day lens) Sigma 85mm F1.4 EX DG HSM (for portrait &amp; bokeh effects) Wide angle lens (any suggestions)   Main questions / comments please...   Q1) What do you think of the lens choices that I have decided to build my kit?  Q2) Any wide angle lens that you will recommend? (third party or canon) or should I get wide angle zoom lens ? Q3) What are your thoughts that I chose all my lens from Third Party instead of Official Canon ones... is that a "smart move"?