Is "exposure fusion" distinct from HDR compositing techniques, or is it essentially a marketing term for a specific HDR process.  Or is it just a synonym for HDR?  Or, to put this in "meta" terms, should exposure fusion be treated as a distinct tag from HDR, or should it get lumped in with ?
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I understand that "exposure fusion" is a method for combining different exposures into a single image. How exactly does it work, and how is it related to ?
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I this setup as shown in the screenshot. The image transparency plugs into the mix factor, the transparent and principled nodes plug into the mix shader inputs. I'm trying to figure out how to introduce translucency into the setup. Any help would be appreciated.
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I was browsing Behance and came upon these pictures:   I was wondering how he got this miniature style effect? I'm guessing a Gaussian Blur on a strip of the picture in Photoshop...but couldn't get right. What's the step-by-step process for doing this with software?  (For getting this effect with a special lens, see )
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I am trying to understand something that is really confusing me.  If I want to make a captured image brighter I can do this in many ways.  I can   Leave the shutter open for longer Make the aperture wider Increase the ISO Use a flash Do something else I have not considered   Which of these options is the right one?  How do I decide which of these things to do in which circumstances?
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I was shooting the lighting of the city that is visible at the top of the trees if you shoot landscape.  No matter what I do, the image is blurry. What have i done:   ISO 100 Manual focus towards infinity Using a tripod Using really sharp prime &amp; good camera   Basically, everything I could. The only example i have is here, but it is not good, because image is underexposed:    The main question: Why can't night photographs be as sharp as daily photographs (with approperiate exposure times of course)?
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This is my favorite look for photos, and I've been trying to achieve this for some recent family vacation photographs. What is the process?  Here are some links to some examples:
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I need to take 30 1s exposure shots in raw at night. The image becomes ALMOST black... Is it possible to take this tiny amount of light/information and sum them all toghether and get as a result a single image that equals a longer expoaure? I am not talking about brightening an image, I am talking about summing the single light information of the pictures together. Would that be possible in photoshop? Would the result be any good?
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I have my scene perfectly lit without the use of a HDRI, however I would now like to add one just so I can have some world reflections in my glossy objects. I can't seem to get the HDRI reflecting in my objects without it also adding light to the scene, though. Is there any way to use an HDRI solely for reflections, and not have its light also affect the scene? I am using Cycles.  Thanks
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I am compositing a scene using a standard process in Cycles, and it worked correctly as long as I had my lighting setup in the scene, however when I switched to HDR, my Shadow pass seems to become a solid black. Why is this, and how can it be avoided?  My node setup:
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I've recently been shooting in raw with my new 100mm usm is macro but I'm getting strange results in out of focus areas with bright colours in. I've used Lightroom for ages and not had any issues with it but it's not giving me the results I'd expect, over saturated with what I'd describe as colour bleed. I gather that the camera and the eos utility might be showing me some sort of preview, but they look very different!  The first screenshot is what the canon eos utility v2.9 shows me (and the same in camera) and gives me the bokeh I'd expect from a lens like this.  The second is what lightroom 3.3 shows me without any developing done. I've reimported with settings reset, and copied over with adobe bridge and photoshop and had the same results. This is with lens corrections off.  Don't ask why the filenames appear to be different between the screenshots, I assure you they're the same photo.
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For black and white photography, will there be any quality difference between using the built-in black and white mode, or shooting in color initially and then removing the color later using Photoshop (or similar application)?  I have a high-end compact camera, the .
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I have been doing so much research on iso, and for awhile I've been going with the theory that low iso= less noise, so I've been shooting at iso 100 and then adjusting my flashlights and increasing exposure when the photo is coming out too dark. Will i get less noise with a higher iso and a lower exposure time? It's hard for me to tell as I do not shoot cityscapes at night, I create very dark scenes with lit objects. The outside perimeters of my photos are almost always black. Thank you so much. I guess after all the research I still am not sure.
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I'm looking into taking some product photography and I would like to get the ghost mannequin effect, but I can't find any proper documentation.  Something a bit like this:    Can you please give a stepped process (ie 1,2,3) (don't need too many details) .  Thanks for any advice.
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I've been having the hardest time photographing objects that are encrusted in rhinestones and capturing their sparkle.  My understanding of sparkle is that it comes from two components: the dynamic range of our eyes and movement of our heads. Screens don't do a good job of reproducing the dynamic range that our eyes can see and still photos don't do a good job of reproducing movement.  I've looked at various other answers on this site, but I'm still left wanting a truly "sparkly" picture. I've tried:    (black acrylic did a pretty good job for this. It shows a reflection of the object, but effectively dimmed by a number of stops, so the bits that sparkle are still bright) Using a video of the object slowly moving, instead of still photos. This is probably the best option so far, but as one might imagine it's not always a usable option. Using a number of bright point light sources (e.g. non-diffused LEDs, xmas lights). , such as a flashlight/torch or non-diffused halogen lamp Long exposures, short exposures; narrow apertures, wide ones.   No matter what I do, I get more diffuse light (which is good for giving the overall appearance of the object), but very little sparkle. I understand that sparkle is small, bright points of light shining back at the camera, from the mirrored surface of the rhinestone facets, but somehow it never seems enough when captured by the camera.  Perhaps the real question is: how do you show sparkle on a low dynamic-range display? How do you capture it and if it's not easy to capture, is there a way to convince your eye to see something as sparkly?  Here's an example of a shot that I've been trying to make more sparkly:   (artwork by Judith Klausner, photo by myself)  The above photo was lit by a single halogen bulb above the camera and a flash pointed directly at it off to the right and above the camera. It was taken within a diffusion box with the front entirely open and black velvet on the left / back side, and black acrylic underneath it all. 90mm manual prime macro lens on a D600 at F16 with a 1.3" exposure.
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My question is, how would I make the visible HDRI/Enviroment Map be image 1 and then have reflections as Image 2? If someone can post a node setup, or a .py file that would be great &lt;3 I was thinking maybe using the Is Camera Ray node but I'm not confident it would work, and have no idea where to start.
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When taking landscape photos, I often struggle with dynamic range. I have either a burned out skies or landscapes are too dark.  Now I'm reading  that some cameras can take 3 pictures with different exposures, and combine them automatically to one image with higher dynamic range.   So my question is, which cameras have this feature?
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Warning: Total photoshop newb!  I recently got a cool image of my fiancee and I holding hands and showing off her engagment ring. The backdrop is the beach:    I tried to trace an image using a combo of the laso and magic wand tools to select my target. Then I used that to pull out the target as another layer.  I then pasted in a background gradient.     Ended up with a really lame photoshoped looking picture. Notice the white lines where I didn't get the arms close enough and the choppy spots where I got too close.    So what's my main problem here?   Is their a way to bet a better cutout? Is their a blending tool that will make the background look more natural? both   I tried a dozen or so tutorials I found in google searches but they just don't blend these types of images together in any of them. Thanks in advance.