Relatively new to road cycling, have bought a 2nd hand bike and am thinking some parts of the drivetrain need replacing. Have tried to find this online and can't find any answers. Thanks!
120866
I have picked up a bike (Specialized Allez) recently that has a very worn cassette from not replacing the chain for an extended period of time. Therefore am looking to change it. I was wondering what other components need to be replaced at the same time due to chain extension causing wear? My current list is:   Cassette Chain Chainring   Do I also need to replace the Rear Derailleur? And is the chainring required to be changed as well?
79980
I've had my Trek 3900 for about a year now, and I replaced the chain about 3 months ago, but otherwise it's running with the same parts it came with (not counting tubes and tires).  I had to replace my chain because it had gotten really rusty from riding in rain/mud/water on trails, and had started skipping.    My problem is, whenever I ride, if I get above or below a very light pressure when pedaling, the chain skips. I was wondering if this could be caused by my chain, which has gotten a little rusty but not as stretched as the other one was, or if I might need a new cassette?    I just readjusted my derailer, but it still skips.   Does anybody know what could be causing this?
53413
Any idea what kind of tool should I but to fix the loose left crank on my bike? I found this  but not sure if it's gonna suit. Or is it enough to buy only nut driver?
50098
I just bought a new MTB and am planning to change my previous MTB into a Road Bike.   How do I do it? What kind of parts do I need to change or add or remove?  I am not looking to for a full conversion into specialised road bike. But like the answers are suggesting, I am looking for a bridge between commuter or road bike. My majors concerns to be met are:   Should be fast enough to compete with road racers over short distance Should be light as a road  Should be as close as possible in as cheap as possible.
99263
I've just bought a second hand road bike which doesn't have Quick Release Skewers.   Can I just buy a set of QR Skewers and fit them?   Are they a standard size?  Are there any gotchas waiting to bite me if I do change to them?  Is there anything specific I need to look for in order to change to QR Skewers?
27209
My LBS recommended cartridge hubs to me. Here are my doubts.  Seeing as how I never ride in the rain or any such wet substances, I don't really need the "completely sealed" feature.  Sheldon Brown says that if taken care of, the body of a loose-ball hub will last indefinitely. (not the balls and cones). So if you maintain your hub, you should be able to indefinitely avoid having to re-spoke your wheel.  Sealed bottom brackets make sense, because it's easy to pull your cranks off and swap it out. But if you have a cartridge hub, when it wears out you will need to re-spoke your wheel. Am I right about that, or do cartridge hubs have a system for just replacing the bearings?  Also, is it possible that a cartridge hub would last as long as the rim? Then you would just replace the whole wheel once it started having problems.
106234
I had an issue where every time I put my bike in gear 3, it would just keep "skipping". By this I mean that it wouldn't stay in gear 3; the chain would go onto it, then fall onto gear 4, then go back onto it, then back on 4.  Some Googling showed me that I might need to adjust the rear derailleur. So I set about doing this today by first putting my bike onto the biggest cog and adjusting it so the derailleur was in line with the cog. Then I shifted it down to the smallest one and did the same thing (I think I got a bit confused between this and changing the screws to line these two up with something).  Anyway, as luck would have it, this fixed the problem of the skipping however I now can't shift into gears one or two (the two biggest cogs). Like I literally can't flick down the gear lever to put it into these gears.  What could be the issue? I would love some advice.  Thanks
99445
I'm fairly new to bicycling; apologies if this is a standard question but I couldn't figure out how to phrase it to search for it elsewhere.  I ride a KHS Urban-X with Kenda Kwest tires (just what it came with). I've gotten barely any use out of it since owning it, and it's been resting comfortably in the living room through the winter, so I decided today was a great day to get back on.   So I unscrewed the back tire cap, and began to hand-pump air into the tire. All seemed to go well, and the tire held pressure fine, but when I removed the tire pump, the pin appeared to remain pushed down slightly, and air flowed back out of the tire. I looked, and this is what I saw:    Several narrow gashes that appear as if the rubbed was ripped, cut, or separated somehow.  Questions   Is this a common occurrence? Again, I've ridden on this bike very little and thus filled up the tires even less. We have no animals and no bugs around that I know of that would gnaw or chew on such material. Is this fixable, or is my tube completely shot? It would seem to me that the latter is the case. Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future? I use a hand pump but am gentle; would a stand-up pump be a better choice?  Do bike tires come with a standard warranty for cases like this, or do you know of any brands that do? If I have to purchase new tires, I'm going to purchase Is there any kind of "off-season" maintenance that I should be performing on my bike that could prevent things like this?   Thanks in advance for any help you can give!
79829
This question and its answers list the names of bike parts and cycling concepts. Some Rules  Make sure you only put one term per answer! Try to include an image if applicable Include sources that contain detailed information Add a link to the index in this question using edit.  Also, I made this a community wiki, so that anyone will be able to edit it, and to stop rep-hoarding  There's a handy reference at the , a bike repair map; it's a diagram of a bike with all the parts labeled, and is very handy! At the moment, the diagram is up at . (They've changed the URL in the past, so this link may break.) A road bike has the following parts ():  A mountain bike has the following parts ():   Edit: This page is meant to identify what things or concepts are (as per ). If you want to recommend an accessory or a specific product you've found handy, please use the .      Contents                      e                    j                n    o                        u    v        x    y    z
91194
Just bought my first bike and it was put together by the store. I was wondering if this little cable/wire is okay, it's hitting my pedal every time I’m riding. It doesn’t really bother me, but I don’t want it to end up messing something up really bad. Help please new bike owner
74911
I just installed a new chain on my 2002 Trek 2200 Road Bike.  The old chain was a Shimano 9 speed that I installed 18 months and about 5000 miles ago.  It had stretched modestly and was full of winter cruft/grime.  The new chain is a SRAM 9 speed, my first time using the gold snap ring system.  I followed instructions and made sure I have the same link count as the chain that came off the bike.  The cassette was new with the old chain, so it has about 5000 miles on it and doesn't appear to have significant wear.  After installation and a clean/wipe/lube/wipe, I took it for a 15 mile easy ride at about 15-16 mph.  It shifts perfectly and I didn't have to make any adjustments to either derailleur.  Three times, however, when putting it under stain (once on a modest hill climb, once starting from a stop sign in a fairly big gear, and once on an acceleration coming out of a sharp turn) it skipped several teeth and caused my foot to slam down hard.  On the hill, it actually hurt as I had my weight off the saddle (not really standing) and I came down hard on the inside of my thigh.  I think all three were on the right side (power train side) pedal stroke, and I don't think they were all in the same gear.  I'm pretty sure it was the rear cassette that skipped, not the front chainring, but it did happen really fast each time.  I will also say that it's not like these were the only three times I put substantial pressure on the pedals in the ride - I wasn't going hard, but I wasn't being tentative or anything.  Also, in case it's relevant, it was cold, about 40 degrees F or about 4 degrees Centigrade.    My question:  Is this going to get me hurt, or will the new chain 'settle in' over a few rides?  I searched here and pretty much got confirmation of what I had previously thought, that you always get a new chain when you get a new cassette, but you should be able to get a few chains out of each cassette.  Thanks!
77496
I've got a road bike with brake lever shifters, and it's developed a small problem with age: sometimes, the shifter doesn't catch the first time or two I push it. It'll move easily, with no resistance, since it's not actually pulling on the cable, then after a few tries, catch and work normally. The colder the temperature, the more often this happens.  I don't know how the mechanism works internally, so I'm curious what would cause this, and also whether it's (as I suspect) gradual wear of some part of the mechanism, and if it's likely to fail catastrophically, or gradually worsen.
96931
In a question earlier today () the Op asserts that they would need to change their hub, if they wanted to go from a 10- to 11- speed cassette.  I'm not very clued up on 11-speed systems, was wondering why this is the case? And, presumably, when they say "hub", they mean just the freehub body?    Or do they mean something else/more?
123842
I just pulled my old bicycle out of the garage. It's about 10 years old (a 21-speed mountain bike). It was working when it was put into storage.  When I tried to ride it today, the crank wouldn't engage properly to make the chain rings rotate; or more casually, when I pedaled nothing moved but the pedals themselves.  I flipped the bike over and if the rear wheel was spinning at a fair speed then the chain rings would engage when the crank was turned and the rear wheel had power driven to it as normally expected.  Is there a freewheel or freehub at the crank / chain ring junction that I should examine?  I read through a few dozen questions but I couldn't find any that addressed this specific issue; I hope this is a new question and not just a serious misunderstanding on my part!    I'll post a video shortly, but to give further clarification...   The chain is on the gears; the chain does not slip I can backpedal and the chains and gears spin, as normally expected However, if I pedal forward, the gears which are located at the pedals will not spin; the pedals rotate freely. They rotate as if the thing they are supposed to be affixed to isn't attached.   Also, I'm certainly misusing terms here! By "chain rings" and "crank" I was referring to the areas of the bike as indicated in this diagram:
61873
I've been thinking in changing my v-brakes to disc brakes. Now that my rear v-brake can't brake anymore I think that it is time change it. I've already seen . My frame is prepared for disc and, as I don't want to change my brake lever, I'll go with mechanical brakes (does  look ok?);  The only problem is the rear wheel hub that has not the six holes for the disk. Is it ok if I just change the rear wheel hub and keep the front one?
106287
The spec sheet for the Shimano Alivio FD-M430 front derailleur contains a number of points that I don't understand.   What does "Maximum capacity: 22 teeth" mean? Why are "Top gear teeth" constrained to "44/48T"? Is there anything wrong with 46? What is "Cable Routing: dual-pull type"? And most puzzling, what is "Chain Stay Angle  63-66 / 66-69" and how do I measure mine?
37388
somehow the alloy braking surface of my rear wheel's rim has got a series of quite shallow lacerations, less than a mil' deep bunched quite closely together (the effected area is no more than 1/8 of the rim).  When I brake (side pull road bike brakes) I can hear it making a different sound on each rotation has the damage goes past the pads.  The wheels are Reparto Corse's which came with my Bianchi, they are new and have less than 1k miles (probably way less). And they are fine in every other respect.  So I guess my options are:   Leave it and let it smooth out with use. May take some time and wear down brake pads faster. Lightly sand the worst offending parts with high grit abrasive paper. Fill the damage with expoxy (or similar) then sand. Replace the rim (would it worth the labour cost?)   So are any of these good options or do you have any idea what you may also do?  Thanks