I have the same , but about Core.   This one I want to ask whether such a temperature is dangerous for other Components, then Core?  I have read some advices to adjust Fan Speed, cause if you use  MacBook with default configuration it can damage after 3 or more years some of your internal hardware components cause of hot air. The advantage of such a default configuration is quietly working MacBook.  Are there any information about it? If its opinion is completely wrong why such Tool as Macs Fan Control are more or less popular?
121250
After upgrading to High Sierra (I have clean installed it), my mac (Macbook Pro 2010) needs unreasonably longer time to login. As a result, I have noticed that the temperature increases to around 100 C during the startup time (I have checked this right after login through Istat Menus). Meanwhile the fans are at 2000 rps. Apparently , the reason why fans do not speed up is because the system as a whole is within the safe temp with the only exception of the CPU temperature as CPU is busy processing all those startup processes. So the fans assume everything is alright and do not speed up.  Now my question is if this causes any harm to CPU as I think I read somewhere that quick fluctuations within a short range in the temp of CPU can cause damage to the CPU. I just wanted to know your ideas on this.
5653
How do I find out the number, type, resolution &amp; refresh rate of additional monitors I can attach to my MacBook or MacBook Pro?  This is an attempt at a canonical QA, as per the Meta QA -   to try prevent the myriad "same but different" questions we get on every possible combination of computers, cable &amp; monitors There are perfectly good resources out there that Ask Different should not have to duplicate the efforts of.
14403
Will higher temperatures damage a computer over time, even when not reaching the maximum temperature? For example, if the maximum is 105 degrees celcius, will the computer break faster when continually having it on 80 degrees celsius instead of, for example, 60 degrees celcius.
121756
My friends say that it should actually improve the cooling since there is more air available to it, especially the CPU fan. I have to admit that it at least looks like it would stay cooler.  I disagree. It should prevent the case fans from effectively running fast-moving air across the components, right? As for the CPU fan, the air around it isn't being refreshed as much with the case open, I think, so it's getting hotter, so the CPU cooling isn't as effective. Not that it would kill the computer, but it seems to me that it would make the cooling less efficient.  Who's right? This is about settling an argument, not trying to solve a real problem. The computer in question is a custom-made "1337 gaming b0x0r r!g" (you know the type) school computer with like 8 fans that's being used right now to make graphene using a LightScribe DVD burner (not a heavy task), and its case is open. The key here is that it has a good-quality case, and we can't try heat tests on it.
76987
I'm thinking about upgrading the CPU in my MacBook Pro from its current  dual core processor to a  quad core processor.  Is there any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea? The socket, operating temperature, instruction set, wattage, and memory specifications match perfectly.  It's a summer 2012 production model, 13" unibody, FCPGA988 socket, 4GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM (upgrading to 8GB shortly), with 10.8.3.
12483
The aluminum Macbook Pro gives a mild shock when connected to a wall socket and charging. It only happens when I'm, for example, not wearing shoes or slippers and my feet are resting on the ground (i.e. by body is acting as a conductor). I contacted apple and I was told to perform the following steps:  Shutdown  hold ⇧+ctrl+⌥+power for 10 seconds  wait 30 seconds then hold ⇧+ctrl+⌥+R+power (Let the Mac reboot three times with that apple tone, then let go. The Mac reboots again.)   This did not fix the problem and I was not told what these steps were supposed to do. They have asked me to purchase a three pin version of the adapter and see if that fixes my problem. My last MacBook Pro was giving pretty severe jolts towards end of life. Hence a bit concerned. Question  Has anyone here experienced such a problem?  Is anyone aware of what the above sequence of steps supposed to do?  Also, will this damage the Macbook in some way?
14243
I have a server room about 12 feet square with an unfinished ceiling (exposed ducts and wiring).  It houses a few servers (about ten, 1U and 2U) and some networking gear (four 1U switches, three routers, three modems, two cable boxes).  With the door closed, it runs around 80 degrees Fahrenheit with half the servers turned on.  When I turned on all the servers it reached 86 before I chickened out and propped the door open.  The room is adjacent to air-conditioned office space, but does not itself have dedicated air conditioning.  The ventilation for this room seems to be limited to one duct coming in at ceiling level, with a powered fan to draw air in, and one duct at ceiling level to allow air to flow out (it seems like it may just go into the drop ceiling cavity in the adjacent room).  The adjacent office space stays fairly cool, but I'd prefer not to leave the door propped open all the time.  There is both 110v and 208v service in the room, and plenty of power available.  But there are no windows, and no floor drains (in a pinch we might be able to run a condensation hose through a small hole we'd drill in the wall to a nearby sink area, but only if absolutely necessary).  I've considered portable A/C units, but I'm not sure on sizing and a lot less sure how we would run the exhaust hose(s).  I suppose we could point one at the existing room exhaust duct (air return), but substantially modifying the duct is probably a no-no.  I've also considered installing a fan box in the door of the room, but I'm concerned that this will only drop the temperature a little.  Even right now, with all the equipment on, the room is at 83 degrees with the door open.  And the main building A/C turns off daily at 6 PM to conserve energy, so the adjacent room temperature rises at night.  How would you cool this room?  Let's say the goal is to bring the temperature with everything running from a steady state of around 90 degrees down to 75 (equivalently, to offset the heat produced by ten 1U servers).
119818
My processor fan never runs on full speed event though my processor temperature is going so high. I am using HWMonitor (also speedfan) to record temperatures and my temperature readings in normal are as follows: Intel Core 2 Quad Q2800: Core # 0: 65 c Core # 1: 60 c Core # 2: 59 c Core # 3: 59 c  But during high usage like while playing a game or something it hits around 80+, I tried cleaning the grill and fan and putting new thermal grease but it didn’t help. HWMonitor further says: FANS PWM:  FANSWMIN0: 50%  And from the above reading I am guessing that my fan is running on 50% always and I think it is because it looks slow... Not really making any sound and you can feel any air blowing out of it if you put your hand in front of it. I tried SpeedFan but my motherboard isn’t supported… My BIOS also doesn’t have any such option all it has is: Advanced &gt; Fan Control - Processor Zone Response - Normal - Processor Zone Damping – High - Auto Fan Detection – Disable - Fan Detection Error- Enable  My specs are as follows: Motherboard: Intel DG43NB [Version AAE34877-402] CPU:  Intel(R) Core(TM) 2 Quad CPU Q8200 @ 2.33GHz [Socket 775 LGA]  I want to know how to take my CPU temperature to normal again (probably by making my fan run to max speed)?  Just checked processor specification here:  And it says for Intel® Core™2 Quad Processor Q8200: TCASE 71.4°C  I am not sure about the usage of TCASE.
1600
I want to use  to display my CPU-Core temperatures (haswell i7). However the setting:  order += "cpu_temperature 1" #... cpu_temperature 1{         format = "T: %degree °C" } #   doesn't display the correct core temperature. The numbers it shows seem to correspond to the value xsensors shows for temp1, if I change the 1 to 2 above it corresponds to xsensors temp2. Trying 3 or 4 doesn't have any effect. However I want to get the true core temperatures of all 4 cores with i3 status. How can I do this?
102806
I have a laptop that's running on the following:   MSI MS-1634X motherboard AMD Turion X2 TL-66 CPU ATI Mobility Radeon HD2600   It keeps overheating, especially when I do something more CPU and GPU-intensive such as games. I've tried SpeedFan and Notebook Hardware Control and neither are able to help control my fans. I also have a Targus Chillmat for my laptop which helps cool down my laptop, but it still overheats. Are there any fan controlling programs that I could use to maybe turn up the RPMs on my fans or any other ways to cool down my laptop? My laptop runs pretty hot, maybe 80c core when being used, not even intensively. The Hard drive stays cool though, close to 35c.  Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
65011
I noticed my house wasn't getting under 75°F this weekend when I had the thermostat set for 70°F. Since I'd done a lot of drywall sanding inside recently, my first idea was to replace the filthy air filter.    My first indication that the air filter wasn't the root cause was when the return didn't have enough suction to hold the air filter in place while I was replacing it. I went outside to look at the compressor unit and discovered the exposed portion of the refrigerant line running into the house was frozen, but the fan was still running. The evaporator drain line still had a steady stream of water coming out of it. After turning everything off and waiting for the line to thaw, I turned the thermostat back on. Cooler air came out of the vents, but it didn't seem to be blowing with much force, and it wasn't as cool as it should be. I went back outside and discovered the refrigerant line was already frosting up again. At this point it was already dark, so I turned everything back off and slept with the ceiling fan on. :/   Other random notes that may or may not play a factor:   The AC unit had been sitting idle the past 3 days since we had nice weather in the mid-70's last week. I mowed the lawn next to the condenser unit the day I noticed it stopped working. However, I was bagging the grass clippings, so nothing should have been blown into the unit.   Any ideas on the root cause of the icing and lower air flow? I wouldn't think the two would be connected normally. Is it something as simple as low refrigerant levels? I plan on going to look more closely at it after work today. What are some other things I should pay attention to?  UPDATE: I checked the system after work today and decided to give it one more chance after I couldn't find anything wrong with it. After a few hours, it had brought the inside temperature down from 80°F to 75°F. I periodically checked the refrigerant line for freezing, but it never got much colder than 60ish degrees.  I think the root cause was the air filter, and that I didn't allow enough time for the line to thaw last night.  UPDATE 2: Maybe I drew conclusions too soon - I just checked the refrigerant line and discovered frost on it again. The inside temperature was at 72°F while the outside was at 66°F. I think pumping warm air to a cooler outside temperature may have contributed to the icing, but I'm not completely sure. (And if you think I'm crazy for running the AC when I could just open the window, you'd think twice too if you saw how many bugs swarm my porch light and windows every night. Dozens of them somehow find their way past the screens if I open the windows.) I plan on running it again tomorrow during the day and monitoring the refrigerant line temperature every few hours. If it freezes up again, I think I'm going to cave and call a repair guy.  UPDATE 3:  I totally forgot to follow up on this. It froze again, so I called an HVAC repair guy. He checked the system, added refrigerant, and problem solved. I think the bill came out somewhere around $150 for the service call fee and refrigerant costs.
54620
I have a 15 year old Bryant Central Air unit in my house.  Yesterday it stopped working.  Here is what I have checked.   The breaker in the basement is not tripped. The furnace works fine from the thermostat. The blower downstairs by the furnace runs when AC is on and blows room temp air into the house, but the fan on the compressor is not spinning.  The fan on the compressor does spin freely when I manually spin it with a stick.  Checked for fuses in the outside box.  There are no fuses outside, only an on/off pull thingy with two metal plates that you have to turn upside down to turn off. The capacitor is not flat on top, but far less rounded then any of the examples of blown AC dual capacitors I've seen on youtube. I get 220v in on the contactor. I get 220v out on the contactor. I get 24v from the thermostat. When the air is on at the thermostat the contactor solenoid is in, when the air is off it is out.   When the air is on at the thermostat I hear a buzz coming from the outside compressor but I can't tell what the source of the buzz is. If I push the solenoid in when the AC is off, the compressor does not start up and the fan does not spin, I just hear the buzz. If I wait by the compressor outside for a few seconds while the AC is on there's another buzz sound that goes off for about 3 seconds then stops.  From listening to the AC when it was working this is the buzz sound that goes off before the compressor and fan usually kick in. After leaving the non-functioning unit on for a few minutes while I diagnosed I noticed that the metal on top of the compressor fan motor was VERY hot to the touch.  It cooled after I turned the AC off.   I'm thinking the fan motor on the compressor is dead or the capacitor is bad.  Is there a way to check the capacitor and the fan motor while they're still in the unit?  With the power off of course.  Does anyone think it's something else?  Do I have to buy the overpriced ($485 for the manufacturer fan motor and $200 for the dual capacitor) replacement part from the manufacturer or can I use a third party manufacturer?  Any other help would be appreciated.  As much as I'd love to bring an HVAC guy in here I just can't afford it.  Either I go without AC, or I fix it myself.  EDIT:  With the AC on I manually spun up the fan on the compressor and the fan started spinning and the AC unit fired up.
45151
I am using an external monitor and the only way (that doesn't involve jumping through hoops) to turn off the MacBook Pro monitor is to close the lid.  Does closing the lid causes any problems? I have read the following on :     You can still run a single external monitor if you close the lid of   your laptop, but that restricts airflow and exposes your display to a   lot of heat. Not good.
18050
I am trying to find a good rough guesstimate of how much of the maximum wattage usage of a graphics card is turned into hot air.  Say a graphics card is rated at using X watts at maximum usage. How much of that is released as heat into the air via the cooling setup, and how much is not (If not where does it go? To ground?)  Yes I know there are a lot of variables here, I am just looking for a guesstimate from someone who would understand better than me. I'm specifically using  (Radeon 6990 375 watts max)
42630
I have a Dell XPS 15 9570, 32 GB ram, 2.2 ghz and 6 cores. When i use an application (The parsim command on MATLAB) ()  then my fan starts running fast , during this my PC doesn't seem to be heating but it never got this noisy in the past so it got me worried. In my task manager , the CPU usage shows 100% when this application is running.   Is it a problem for the life of laptop, if I run the PC at CPU 100% for like 4 hours in a day? Do I need to be worried about the noisy fan during the application?
83095
This discovery came after my latest question:   I use my macbook on a stand with good airflow, after High Sierra, I noticed unusual high heating along with poor gpu performance, afterwards I noticed screen damage, and now, I discovered that my macbook is physically swollen, 2-3mm's I'm guessing  The issues could be unrelated to High Sierra, yet, it would be too big of a coincidence if it's not the cause, as things were breezy beforehand  Here's a picture of the issue:     The trackpad area is swollen, the trackpad doesn't click any more, the battery reports "Normal" condition (Cycle count: 12), the lid doesn't close any more, but everything luckily works for now  I assume it's the battery that's swollen, but even with the high heating I complain about, the GPU temperatures was 80C at most and enclosure temps weren't extremely high  It's a shocking issue for me, I'm wondering whether there is a solution other than buying a new Macbook, unsure how to approach the issue in general, and since I use the device daily, really don't want to part with it even for repairs or inspection, I'm located in Turkey  Also curious why I experienced these issues with High Sierra and whether anyone else has similar experiences
79844
I love everything about my Macook Air except its very low maximum memory (and yes I bought it with the maximum available at the time).  So I'm thinking "I know how to solder... how hard can it be?".  It's not that unusual for the theoretic limit at the time a computer is manufactured to be surpassable later when modules with more memory become available.  Is  based solely on the assumption that no one knows how to solder?  Or is it massively more difficult to solder new memory into a laptop than it is to solder some simple electronics project?  Are there any big difficulties other than just the need to solder the memory in place (and unsolder the old memory)?