I've got this same dang faucet, and it is leaky. There are some answers in the linked page, but there are some contradictory posts, so I thought I'd re-pose this query.  There is nothing to unscrew or put a hex wrench into up top.  Is the answer: pry with a screwdriver until handles are off? They're on there pretty good. Also, I'm not even sure what brand this guy is, so I'm fuzzy on exactly what cartridge to purchase to fix it.
122109
My bathroom faucet is leaking around the base of my right handle.  With previous faucets I've been able to use a set screw to loosen the handle and replace the washer.  With these, though, I can't seem to pop off the faucet handle.  Does anyone know how to remove this handle?  Does anyone know the brand of this faucet?  Update -- Nov 29th  I've already tried to get those cap ends off.  I tried to use some pliers and unscrew them, but couldn't remove it.  I tried taking a small flat head and popping off the ends.  Still nothing.  It doesn't seem like the come off.  I also tried unscrewing the handles, but they just don't see to turn for me.  Also there is definitely no set screw on the handles.  I've searched all around the faucet and found nothing indicating a set screw.
87447
I have an American Standard toilet I installed last year. I don't know much about plumbing, but I was able to install this toilet. It seems to function okay, except for what I think is a mechanical problem.  Sometimes when the toilet is flushed, the flapper doesn't close and water keeps running.  The handle feels like it's slightly stuck in the up position.  I looked inside the tank once when it was doing this, and the chain attached to the handle was slack. I don't understand why the flapper isn't closing.  I've tried putting more slack in the chain and loosening the plastic nut that holds the handle on the toilet, but it doesn't seem to be helping.    How can I fix this?
87927
Bought a used mountain bike for mom. The bike  wasn't used in quite a while . Mom used it for 3 weeks , tire pressure was  ok but it needed some air. So I pumped air in both the tires to max recommended psi on the tire.  After sometime ,  both the tires were flat. I did not hear any sound of leaking air right after I pumped it. I tried it again, this time  I heard a hissing air leaking sound.  What could have happened ?Not sure if anything in the valve is stuck. How can I determine what is wrong ?  Thanks in advance.
101101
I'm relatively new. I know how to make a water bottle starting with a circle and extruding upwards while using a combo of extrude and scaling to make indents, but how would I do something like this? I'm still trying to wrap my head around some of the photos I see out there. This is such an incredible program. Thanks for your help!
55640
I have just replaced an inner tube on the front tire, and discovered it had a presta valve.  My old floor pump is fitted for a Schrader valve.  I learned I could buy an adapter, however, I decided to buy a new floor pump with a dual nozzle.  I opened up the valve on the presta valve by screwing open the tiny nut.  I also used the small screw ring to lock down the valve on the rim.  I pushed on the side of the nozzle for the presta valve and locked it on with the lever.  As I pumped air was escaping out of the other nozzle for a Schrader valve.  I took it off and tried again pushing the nozzle down as far as it would go – about 1.5 cm, locked it down, and again found air escaping through the other nozzle.  Thinking the lever must be in the up position to push it down, I tried again.  This time the nozzle would not push down very far, and air was escaping through the other nozzle.  I'm sure I have the correct nozzle on the presta valve (It is a smaller opening).  I'm not sure what to do next, and I would welcome any insight.  Thank you.
33597
I just spent the last 10 minutes trying to put a new set of grips on to my mountain bike handlebars..  The old ones came off fairly agreeably and I've got the new ones 80-90% of the way on, however, at this point both my hands are stinging from the aggressive twisting and pushing - I have tried gloves, but I feel it's best left till my hands don't hurt anymore.  Is there a tried and tested way of doing this? Or is there a knack to this that I am missing?
114870
Background I've had my bike for several years and it's been fine with moderate use, but this summer, I ended up using it a lot (I rode almost 200km in less than three weeks). Problem It started squeaking pretty badly, so I sprayed some lubricant around all of the joints (pedal, crank-arm, etc.) then took it out for a spin. On that very first ride after the lube, the left crank-arm nearly fell off; I though the pedal broke, but when I stopped and checked, the nut had come loose. I managed to use my keys to tighten the nut and repeat every block or two until I got home. Attempted fix At home, I used a 14mm socket wrench to tighten the nut, but it keeps coming loose. I've resorted to carrying the socket-wrench with me when I ride and stopping to tighten it about ever kilometer. 😕 Research I've read some stuff about the holes in the crank-arm wearing out and worn nuts and how Loctite isn't a solution and such, but none of them mentioned lubrication. My issue started immediately after I lubricated the area around the nut, so logic would dictate that it allowed the nut to slip. I've included a photo (fig.1) of the crank-arm hole and nut. To my eye, the hole doesn't look worn (I assume the bulging around the edges is intentional), but the catch-teeth on the nut do seem worn/flat. 🤔 Question Anyway, I'm wondering if lubrication is indeed the problem and if cleaning the lubrication off (and maybe applying a mild adhesive like Loctite or just hairspray) would suffice. Appendicies Figure 1: Crank-arm hole and nut
36028
We've had mice work their way into the oven insulation of our standalone range and now it stinks when we turn the oven on.  Looking around on the web suggests that replacing the oven is the most common solution, but that seems extreme!  Any suggestions?  (In this case the oven is a "Viking Professional" (bottom of the line) 4 burner + oven freestanding range. I haven't yet been able to pull it out enough to check if it has removable panels or been able to find a manual online.)  I'm guessing the answer will be something like:   locate the manual for your appliance remove access panels remove insulation while being careful about ?? remove insulation that is "stuck" by doing ?? replace with new insulation from ?? put it all back together and test as follows in general be careful of ??   And, perhaps this is too specific to the brand of appliance? It would be useful to know which brands are more amenable to DIY repairs of this type than others.
60200
The plastic tubing supplying filtered water to our refrigerator currently runs below a suspended ceiling. I want to reroute it above. How do I disconnect it without damage from either the union or tee, so I can reconnect once moved? The tee is labeled NSF-51 Parker Parflex size 4. The union has no discernible markings. I believe I would rather disconnect the union rather than the tee. I didn't want to just start tugging. I have found similar fittings for sale online, but no instructions for use.  Here is the union:   And here is the tee:
49378
I just bought a house built in 1984 it has PEX plumbing. I need to remove a toilet to install a new floor and I noticed the water supply line to the toilet connects to a water shut off valve that I’ve never seen before. It looks like a PVC bonnet or nut cap thing With a half crescent ring that you turn left or right to turn the water on or off. Are these reliable or should I replace with a quarter turn ball valve. I really don’t want to do anything unnecessary but a PVC shut off valve gives me anxiety as an inexperienced DIY homeowner
73512
I bought a pair of bicycle pedals that to my surprise had no notches on the pedal spindle to use when tightening them. I managed to screw them in by hand, but they are not quite tight since I can't use a spanner on them. So what would be the correct way to tighten them? Are there any special tools or similar that I'm supposed to use?  The offending pedals can be seen below. The spindle is, as you can see, completely smooth.
51112
I can see the use of the valve cap on a Presta valve when the tube is still packaged (it obviously stops the valve puncturing the tube), but does it do anything except look pretty (or not) once you've fitted the tube to a rim?  I've kept them on out of habit, because I've had problems with sticking Schrader valves in the past when I've lost the caps and dirt/grime has got in there - but the design of Presta valves suggests to me that they wouldn't suffer this fate.  Given that I really need to , is replacing this cap something I can leave out of my daily chores?
24931
Hello Seasoned Advice: I cannot find an answer on any previous posts here relating to woks about what to do if the wok is Already Rusted. I found this wok in my husband's house when I moved in - he has no idea where it came from or how long it's been there.  I have no information about this wok, other than that the faded manufacturer's label indicates it was made in Taiwan, presumably by an Asian cooking supply house - has Chinese (?) characters above, then in English: "Seven S---G Co., Ltd" (the --- indicates where the label is faded and illegible) with an address, international phone number and fax number. It is black, has a welded, hollow steel handle with a hole through it for hanging, and looks to be a commercial, or restaurant-grade wok of carbon steel, well used. It was stored in an under-counter cabinet next to a leaky sink, so I have no doubt about where the original rust came from. Has about 10 small pits on the bottom and almost half of the entire upper right side of the circumference of the wok is almost one continuous thin (not pitted) area of rust.  Previously, I had spent the better part of a day alternately: scrubbing the rust (with coarse salt and fine salt), wiping with vegetable oil and heating over a high gas flame -then repeating this process 3 or 4 times until I was sure there was no rust or moisture remaining (although it is still pitted in some places at the bottom), and then another thin coat of oil to seal against moisture, heated again, then wiped. It worked very well for a couple of weeks, but as I don't currently cook Asian-style on a regular basis, after a few weeks of disuse it turned rusty again, almost worse than when I found it.   Should I be using steel wool to scrub the rust down to bare steel first, or just the salt? Using a different oil? (WD-40?  Just Kidding). Oven vs Gas burner heating?  How should I be storing this? (I have limited space-so most of my equipment is hanging on the walls or on a steel kitchen shelving rack, so I don't think air-flow is an issue.)  As this looks like a relatively decent piece of equipment, I want to do more Asian style cooking and be able to use it on a more regular basis. Is this wok salvageable? I would hate to have to put it on the curb and spend the money for a new restaurant-quality wok.  Thanks in advance for any guidance. P.S., I have pics, but due to a software issue with my camera, I am unable to post at the moment - will try to send pics if I get an answer to this question.
28989
I have a kryptonite U lock and lately it's been sticking a lot while trying to turn the key. Usually I can eventually get the key turned. It was getting worse though and a few days ago I (unable to find any lube/wd-40 etc) cleaned it out with soap and water which seemed to help a great deal. I also started being very careful to make sure the little key-hole guard engaged. Last night when I was totally unable to get my bicycle unlocked and had to leave it there and walk home. The key would fit into the lock and turn half way and then stop. I'm going to go try and pick it up now, but I don't know the best way to try and make sure this doesn't keep happening. It's winter here and I wonder if that might have something to do with it.  Edit: I ended up at the hardware store and the guy there (who had built his own bike in his garage, conveniently) recommended jig-a-loo. This made the lock move really well but I still couldn't get it open. This is when I noticed that my key was twisted (From trying to force the lock probably). I flattened the key back in a clamp and was able eventually to unlock it, but I can't seem to lock it again, so I ordered new keys. I'll have to wait till they come to see if that solves anything or it's actually a problem with the lock...  Edit again: Some graphite and new keys seemed to do the trick!
95867
I forgot to bring my padlock for this trip so my hostel in Taipei lent one to me until I buy one, which I keep forgetting to do.  The one they lent me is a generic "NO. 20" 4-barrel combination lock. There's no brand name in the instruction sheet. It has a feature where you can set or program the lock's combination.    I used the padlock fine about three times. But now I cannot get it to open just a couple of hours after last using it.  I did not forget the code. I set it to a year in the 20th century. I'm not sure the order of the last two digits but I've tried both many times, and I've even gone systematically through all 100 possibilities that begin with 1-9-?-?!  Is it a known problem with this kind of cheap padlock to "forget" or spontaneously change their combination?  (Yes I know I can just cut it off. But I'd feel like a bit of an idiot especially since the lock is not mine and is on loan. In fact the hostel must not own a pair of bolt cutters like I thought most do. They've asked a locksmith to come! I fear this may prove expensive, which is worse than just feeling like an idiot...)
109410
Removed it from System Preferences &gt; Keyboard. No go. Remapped ⌘ Cmd to be Ctrl. No go. Ripping out the ⌘ Cmd key shouldn't be the solution. Anyone?...
23606
Does anyone have any bright ideas for how to open a drawer that has become jammed shut because it has been filled up too much? I've had a look at the underside and can get at the bottom of the drawers but unscrewing the rails etc. is not an option because I can't get at them. Currently my best plan is to try and remove or cut out the hard board base of the drawer which would then need to be replaced. Any better ideas much appreciated.