I have recently purchases new speakers and I have noticed a slight hum coming from the transformer, therefore I am considering replacing it. The transformer, used to power an internal amplifier, specifications are as follows: 230V~50Hz - 13.5V~3.5A. However I'am having trouble finding a replacement with exact same specifications.  The wattage of the current transformer is 13.5V * 3.5A = 47.25W, could I use another 50W transformer with different voltage specifications without risking to blow up my speakers?  Let me know if you need any additional information.
1228
Power supplies are available in a wide range of voltage and current ratings.  If I have a device that has specific voltage and current ratings, how do those relate to the power ratings I need to specify?  What if I don't know the device's specs, but am replacing a previous power supply with particular ratings?  Is it OK to go lower voltage, or should it always be higher?  What about current?  I don't want a 10 A supply to damage my 1 A device.
106577
My professor always insists that I provide power to an oscilloscope thorough an isolation transformer. What is the necessity of this? What is the risk if I don't connect it?
106522
I am a beginner in electrical engineering, and to begin learning I decided to look into audio amplifiers. I have seen that the power of audio amplifiers is often described in the units of watts, watts RMS, and watts PMPO. So far, the only one of those units that I think I understand is watts. For instance, I just recently made . If I think: &quot;What is the power of my amplifier supposed to be?&quot;, then my thought process goes like this:  The transistors I used are the TIP120, which have a maximum rated power of 65W. Then, I decide that 60W is a safer maximum which would be reached if my amplifier runs 19V through one of my 6Ω speakers. Therefore, the power of my amplifier is 2x60W.  Then, I look at the datasheets of audio amplifier ICs, like the TPA3116 that says: &quot;50W into a 4Ω load at 21V&quot;, which makes me conclude that in that setting it'll output 14V maximum into the speaker, which I think makes sense. But then, I look at the datasheet of the TDA7294, and they talk about &quot;RMS Power&quot; and &quot;RMS Music Power&quot;, units which I couldn't find clear information about. Then, I look at home audio systems, like a Panasonic Stereo System I have which has &quot;9500 Watts P.M.P.O.&quot; written on the front. 9500W? That sounds stupidly high to me, but then I look again and it has 300W written on the back of it. If I'm correct, maybe a 1kW home stereo system could make sense, but a 2kW or greater one would not exist. So... Are my conclusions about  and the TPA3116 correct? Are my conclusions about audio equipment power correct? Are WattsPMPO, WattsRMS and RMSmusicpower, real useful units?
104376
Suppose I have a 12-0-12 1Amp step down transformer. The primary coil is connected to 220V AC. How is the current flow in primary coil impacted in following 3 scenarios:   When no load connected to secondary When 250mA is drawn from secondary  When 500mA is drawn from secondary.   If the primary coil's current flow remains unchanged regardless of the amount of current drawn from  secondary, which form of energy does the primary coil's current gets converter on no secondary load condition?  And if the current flow in primary varies, which principle of physics basically drives the factor - how much current should flow in the primary coil, for a given amount of load on secondary coil?
26133
I am stuck while calculating the peak current in the boost converter through the inductor.  Can you please check if I am right?  Ipeak=(Max Voltage/ R2) = 18/1000=0.018. So, my peak current through the inductor is just 18mA? Am I doing it correct. If this is correct, how will I account for the Vce drop inside the pin1 and pin2 of the IC. The darlington transistor inside the IC is just like a normal transistor. I have added two transistor outside the IC instead of using the darlington switch in the IC for thermal purposes.   Can you please help me with the calculation of Vswce and Ipeak. The calculation of Vswce is not mentioned in the datasheet. So, please help. And the calculation of Peak current is mentioned in the datasheet. But is my approach of calculating the peak current through the inductor right?
123319
I'm replacing the capacitors in a very old tape recorder (1957) and I'm ok with the electrolytics but there are 4 with values 0.001 (x2), 0.002 and 0.005 uF i.e. 1, 2 and 5 nF. Two are marked as 250v and two as 750v. Can anyone suggest what to replace them with please?
20695
I just got my first multimeter and when I measured a 12V 1.2ah lead-acid battery I get AC 28.8V and DC 13.4V. Is this normal?  In addition I tested an AA 1.5V battery and I got 2.9V (AC setting 200) and 1.58V (DC setting 20).  Is my multimeter broken?   The meter is a  and the lowest AC range is 200V.  LATE UPDATE I went to the store and tested another UT33C and it also displayed an AC voltage. I asked to try a different model (UT39A) and it correctly displayed 0VAC when I tested an AA battery, so I exchanged my multimeter for the other model. Thanks.
28697
I have the following circuit, where I put R52 = R53 = 2700 Ohms :    Triggering levels are of 1V and 2V approximately according to my computations, that is okay according to the following figure showing input in green and output in blue :    But what I find really strange is that the maximum voltage output is around 3.3V and not at 5V. How would you explain that ? And last detail : how would you explain that the output is not exactly at 0V when the input is high?  Thank you very much for your help.
25415
I am trying to build a DC-DC Buck-Boost Converter using  basic schematic and an Arduino with the analogWrite() function as my PWM generator. I only want to step up 2.4-3V to ~5V. If it's just the capacitor and no load, the converter works so good that I have to switch it off after a few seconds since the voltage I measure on my capacitor is exceeding the capacitor limit. However, when I connect any load to the capacitor(for example a motor or a resistor) my voltage drops to a really low value(0.1-2v) and stays that way no matter what frequency PWM signal I send to the transistor using Arduino. I really tried but couldn't find the cause of the problem. Is it because I have two grounds, the battery pack one and the Arduino one? Is it because of the inductor(I tried using a smaller, 45uH, torroidal one but couldn't get any better results)? So what am I doing wrong?   I only expect to draw 500mA of current at 5 volts at the output side, and according to  calculator my inductor and transistor should be fine.  Components: 100uF 35V electrolytic capacitor, 200uH inductor, BYW29 rectifier diode, TIP 120 power transistor, 1k resistor    A schematic of the circuit or at least how it is supposed to look. Maybe I miswired something? The resistor is to represent  the load, the value doesn't matter since my problem persists at any value but the multimeters "infinite" resistance.   This is how my circuit looks   I used one coil of an old transformer as my inductor    However I also tried this inductor
56761
Many of us have lots of devices that uses AC mains (110V/220V) to DC (typically 12VDC, 9VDC and sometimes 15VDC) adapters. There's my Wi-Fi router, my powered speakers, printer, scanner, etc.  So I would like to combine all these into a single device; do the AC/DC conversion once and have everyone tap the DC line, instead of each doing the conversion themselves.  Regarding to this, I have two questions:   is there any commercial solution out there to do this? (bench power supply for example)? suppose I have one of these beauties powering my stuff and this power supply can deliver 100W of power. Will the device always be consuming 100W of power or will the consume increase as I hang more devices?    thanks.
25013
Is there any IC which converts 230V AC to 5V DC? As lossless as possible. I want to connect my microcontroller to an ordinary electrical socket and I don't have enough space available. Thanks.
88635
The rating of a real transformer is 15 kVA , 2300/230-V then can we say that the primary rms is 2300 V or can we say that the secondary rms is 230 V or both.  To clarify further, suppose to solve for certain characteristics of this transformer like primary current and secondary current i use the equivalent circuit equation of the transformer referred to the primary side as:  Vp = aVs + Req*Ip + jXeq*Ip  Then what should i use for Vp or Vs in the above equation looking at the rating of the transformer.  In the above equation looking at the rating data given above is Vp= 2300 or Vs = 230 ?As mentioned earlier the transformer is mentioned to be real.
105960
I see every day high voltage, high current; high voltage, low current. I rarely see low voltage, high current; why?  I know that I can take a high voltage, high current signal, send it through a step-down transformer and theoretically get a low voltage high current (with the same power output, of course), but I never see this done.  Can someone give me a reason as to why I wouldn't want a low-voltage high-current scenario?
23953
Is it safe to connect a battery in series to wall via adapter?  I have an AC adapter which gives me 10 vDC from the wall (220 volts). I've measured the adapter and it outputs 10 vDC. I have a 3 volt battery. I would like to connect in series to get 13 vDC.   Is this possible? Is this safe? If not, what can go wrong?
96763
Thanks to the help of a few of the other guys I have my AC to DC rectifier working, and the rest of the power supply working.  Now while testing the power supply, my 18V AC transformer gets rectified and put into my circuit below   And I end up with 1.3-26V DC output selectable via the pot R2.  Now while running this @12V with a LED strip light, running about 600mA my heat sink got quite hot. Not hot enough to cause the thermal protection in the LM317 to cut in but hot enough to get me thinking.  Power dissipated = (Vin - Vout)*Il = (26 - 12)*0.6 = 8.4W  My heat sink is rated at 11 C/W and I pasted the LM317(TO-220) on.  Max C/W is = (MaxRunningTemp - ambientTemp) / power = (60-25)/8.4 = 4.2 C/W  Does that sound right, never done any heat sink calculations before. So I would need a heat sink rated at &lt;4.2 C/W  I would not see my self running this over 500mA again but running this circuit at 5V would change a lot? The power dissipated would be 42W if 5V @ 500mA. What can I do to prevent needing a HUGE heatsink? and are my calculations above correct?
28338
Is there a standard for the sizes of PCB traces?  That is are some 25 mil and others 10 mil or is can you choose your own?  I plan to run 400mA through some thicker traces, but less than 30mA for all other traces. About what size would I need?
121541
We've all played with different transformers and power supplies that have an LED indicator that dims before going out entirely when the power supply is unplugged.  I'm working on designing an accent light which would involve a translucent crystal light source (probably made of resin or glass if I can find a cheap supplier) containing LEDs and certain electronics, and a base which would supply electrical current. For gamers, it might appear somewhat like a Welkynd Stone. My question is what is the simplest way to cause the LEDs to dim slowly (say over 2-10 seconds) when the crystal is removed from the base? Similar to the unplugged transformer, but with an intentional and controlled dimming.  I just purchased some LEDs and plan to build a test system over the next month or two. These LEDs are in a 5 meter strip divided into 3 LED series run in parallel and rated at 12v. I do not know the amp rating of the LEDs, but I'm guessing in the 20ma range (what I've read is average for bright white). I will probably use 4 series totaling 12 LEDs in the test build.   If I have the transformer from AC power built into the base, I was guessing I could use a number of capacitors in parallel with a resistor to store electricity and slowly discharge it into the LEDs. But I'm a self-taught enthusiast so I honestly don't know if this would actually work. Nor do I know the number and ratings of capacitors and resitor that I would need.  If I have the transformer built into the crystal, the transformer and rectifier would retain a small amount of electricity, but I don't think it would be nearly enough to provide the effect I'm looking for, so something else would have to be added to make it last for several seconds.  A nicad battery with control electronics is literally my last resort for achieving this effect, and I'll probably give up on the idea before I go programming my own circuit board.  That's my main question. If anyone wants to toss in some thoughts on how to connect the crystal to the base, I'm open to suggestions. My original plan was to simply have a direct copper to copper connection with the base. But I've recently been considering an EM charging system (akin to a powermat or  my dad has). The concern with the wireless is providing consistent power to the LEDs, though it is safer. I've also learned quite a bit already about constructing the power supply from perusing this SE site, but if anyone has any suggestions for that, too, I'm all ears. For the test build I'll probably hook it up to a computer power supply, or a laptop power supply if I can find a 12v one at Goodwill or the local electronics parts store.  If I get the test model to work, I plan on building possibly a dozen of these for accent lighting around my home.