I'm aware of the Tiles required to be 6 inch thick brick for Corruption/Crimson not to spread. But does the walls (dirt walls, underground walls ...) matter?
43164
I've tried to make an artificial Corruption biome in Terraria for two purposes:   Farming mobs; Getting a lot of Vile Mushrooms;   But I want to do it accurately and limit the size of the corrupted area. So I'm stuck with the following problems:   Will Ebonstone make blocks of dirt in contact with it corrupted, if I place them in such way? Does Corruption spread through Corrupted grass and Thorns? How big or long may corrupted Thorns be?
89241
So I made this structure by subdividing a plane and elevating parts to make hallways:    Then I realized that I wanted to make the walls have a certain thickness.  Is there a way to do this?  Extruding didn't really work for me.
19971
For example, if I draw a 4 (move 4 spaces backward) and the only piece that could make the move is in my "safe zone", do I have to make the move?
39263
Given a set of tiles on a grid, I want to determine:   If the tiles make an enclosed figure If the tiles make an enclosed figure when you count the sides of the board as an edge of the figure If either of the previous two statements are true, which additional tiles fall inside the enclosed figure the initial tiles form.   The player will begin by pressing down on one tile, then dragging their finger to other tiles to create a chain of same-colored tiles. I will check as I go to see if the next tile is valid. Ex. If the player begins on a red tile, their only next valid move is to an adjacent red tile (diagonals do count). When the user lifts their finger, I need to be able to check for the 3 items above.   So my initial thought was that, since I was checking for the validity of the chain each time I went, when the player lifted their finger I could check if the first and last tiles were adjacent. (I already know they're the same color.) If they were adjacent I had a hunch that I'd made an enclosed figure, and I was going to come here to try and see if I was missing something big, and to get some kind of logical/mathematical proof that my hunch was correct (or an example proving it incorrect.)  But that's when I thought of item number 2: I also have to account for chains which use an edge of the board as a side of the enclosed figure. In that case, the first and last items in the chain would not be adjacent, but I would still have an enclosed figure. So now I'm back to square one, a bit.   What can I do with this chain of grid coordinates to figure out if they make an enclosed figure or not? And once I do know I have an enclosed figure, what's the best way to get an additional list of all tiles that fall inside its bounds?      Above I've drawn pictures of what I expect the 4 possible results of this test can be.    The chain does not make an enclosed figure. The chain does make an enclosed figure. If you count the sides of the board as an edge (or more than one edge) of the figure, the chain does make an enclosed figure. The chain does make an enclosed figure, but there are extra data points (validly selected by the user as part of the chain) which are not a part of the figure that is created.    Case 4 is the trickiest, because you'd have to extract the "extra" chain links to find the enclosed figure and the pieces that fall inside it (but not around the "unenclosed" area).  So... Anyone have an idea of a good way to solve this, or just a starting point for me? I'm kind of going in circles at this point and could use another set of eyes.
35173
Does Unity have a map size limit and if there is what is the limit? Is there a way to work around it? I am making a open world zombie survival world and I want to make a really big map. Thanks!
61046
Looking at moving my laundry upstairs, and the right answer is to combine two adjacent closets to get the width and move one of their walls a foot or two into the kitchen to get the depth.  The kitchen floor is 10-inch-square tiles. It would be sort of nice if that continued on into the laundry closet. I do have a full bundle of spare tiles in the basement.   Question: Could/should I plan on the new wall coming in on top of the existing tiles (presumably having to drill to secure the footer without shattering them), or should I plan on removing the ones under the footer and fitting cut pieces back in afterward?
53713
I'm considering attaching a new towel rail to the drywall in my bathroom, with attachment points approximately marked by the yellow postit notes in this picture.    This is on the 21st floor of a condo building in Montreal (built in 2014). The building manager said the drywall is approximately 1" thick (a full inch! not a centimeter).   Is this really possible? (I haven't been able to get confirmation from anyone else). If the drywall is really 1" thick, will the usual drywall anchors be effective? Usually the pictures I see of drywall anchors have them exceed the thickness of the drywall by around 1/2", and have expanders which end up significantly expanded after the screw is inserted. However, most anchors are at most 1" long, and in a 1" thick drywall, there probably won't be much room for the expanders to expand. Will this decrease the effectiveness of the anchors? Another issue is the nearby thermostat/light switches. How do I make sure to avoid any of their wiring when drilling in the drywall anchors? Is it important to avoid them? Part of this I suppose comes down to how the wires are arranged behind thew all. Will they for example come bundled in a metal tube? (In this case hitting the metal tube may cause the tube to flex undesirably? Is there anything else I need to watch for? How can I tell if there's plumbing behind the wall? If I gently drill a small hole, poke into the hole with a toothpick and check there's nothing within an inch behind the wall to worry about, is that a guarantee I'll be fine?
71853
I was reading on the wiki how there is a chance that the Corruption will be replaced with the Crimson.  I am wondering if when you get a world where you have the Crimson is it possible to also have the Corruption if you bring over corruption seeds from another world and use them. Or would these seeds just get you more of the Crimson?
23105
Added this to  and was advised to post here.  I got my greenhouse and didn’t account for the sloping away of the wall it was to go against. Meaning a small gap at the bottom becomes 4” at the top.  I can’t push it into the wall as it warps the greenhouse and can’t leave the huge gap. Is there a way of deal with this?   I was thinking of maybe  - some type of structure around it then fill with expanding foam then remove the structure. - some mesh then plaster it
37651
So I have never actually even tried to go into Hardmode yet, for the simple reason that I've never truly felt fully prepared for the challenges that await me once I enter the Hardmode World...coupled with nostalgia for my old world, but setting that aside...  What should a player have before they enter Hardmode?  How much of the map should be explored before they enact this permanent map change?  What essential resources should the player concern themselves with preserving before the transformation?    In short, how should I prepare for Hardmore?   Important Note - I do not need help preparing for the Wall of Flesh.  I already know that I need a battle platform stretching the length of Hell and I have the gear to fight it, I am more worried about preparing the entire rest of my world.
82192
I am tiling my bathroom floor and don't soon have a full day to dedicate to the job. Is it ok to lay down a few tiles each day and come back to the job when I have time? I would only lay mortar for the tiles I have time to lay each day.    My concern is that the mortar wouldn't properly "join" to the previously laid sections of tile and cause an inferior result, but I'm not really basing this concern on any facts. That is what I'm hoping to learn with this question.
42810
I built this 2 layer mob spawner trappy thing in the air. It's 24x24 but no mobs spawn inside :( No one falls down and I've opened it up several times to check; nothing inside either.  It's a standard thingy with 4 water flows, forcing mobs to the middle and drop down. As said I've opened it and nothing inside  It's dark, 100% sealed with stone.
13834
I have learned that a Mesh with 4 Materials each 1024x1024 in Size is somewhat slower than a Mesh with 1 Material 2048x2048 in Size? In my usual workflow I tend to seperate different Materials into different Materials so an Object tends to have around 2-8 Materials. I have created more than a hundred Assets like this.  Is the performance dramatically affected by this? Is it acceptable to upload such Objects to sites like turbosquid or sell them on Unity Asset Store or will the buyer behead me after noticing?    Window Textures need to be transparent, Metal / Wood / Concrete need different smoothness settings. As far as I know Unity doesn't support Gloss maps.
118827
I am thinking about purchasing a home that is set on top of a crawl space (see image). The crawl space has the full height of a basement, windows and a door leading outside in the back. It has French Drains along the downhill base of the house and plastic lining covering a rock floor. I did see some water on top of the plastic in a few places. The foundation walls are footing and stem walls (I think). They appear nice but have some vertical cracks in several places upon closer inspection. The house was built in 2002. Is the water concerning given the French drains installed? Are the wall cracks normal for the crawl space foundation... should they concern me?
55130
I'm trying to figure out the best, least intrusive way of sound proofing the walls of a bathroom. The bathroom shares a wall with my bedroom, and my 3 yea old's bedroom. The main problem is the sound of water running (plus every bump on the counter and everything) echos loud and clear through the wall into my sons room.  I found  and it seems like a good choice. Another option is adding another layer fo drywall with something like  between them. But all the walls and ceilings in the house are textured. So replacing just one or two walls in a room is just not possible.   This is the layout of the two rooms. I've added red box around the wall with the most noise.   Is there anything else I'm missing here that I could do to dampen the noise short of tearing the bathroom apart?
112366
Consider an $n\times n$ chessboard whose top-left corner is colored white. But Alice likes darkness, so she wants you to cover those white cells for her. The only tool you have are black L-shaped tiles each of which covers $3$ unit cells. Formally, each tile covers unit cells satisfying the following:  Two of the cells are adjacent to the third (shares a side). All three of the cells do not lie on the same row or same column. No two tiles should overlap (cover the same cell) or go outside the board.  Since these tiles cost a lot, you have to cover all the white cells using the minimum number tiles. Example: $1\times 1$ Answer: Impossible, there's a single cell which is white. Since one tile needs $3$ empty cells, there's no way to cover this cell. Example: $4\times 4$ Answer: $4$ ($4$ tiles can be placed as shown)  Example: $7 \times 7$ If each tile can be represented by a number, and each uncovered piece of board can be represented by 'zero', then the answer for a $7 \times 7$ board is $16$: $$ \begin{bmatrix} 16&amp; 16&amp; 15&amp; 15&amp; 14&amp; 14&amp; 13 \\ 16&amp; 12&amp; 15&amp; 11&amp; 14&amp; 13&amp; 13 \\ 12&amp; 12&amp; 11&amp; 11&amp; 10&amp; 10&amp; 9 \\ 8&amp; 8&amp; 7&amp; 6&amp; 10&amp; 9&amp; 9 \\ 8&amp; 7&amp; 7&amp; 6&amp; 6&amp; 2&amp; 2 \\ 5&amp; 5&amp; 4&amp; 3&amp; 3&amp; 1&amp; 2 \\ 5&amp; 0&amp; 4&amp; 4&amp; 3&amp; 1&amp; 1\\ \end{bmatrix} $$ Question For any given $n$, what will be the minimum number of tiles? (Note: Answer exists for odd value of $n \geq 7$)
28871
I'm looking to add some lights on motion detectors (un-switched) and security cameras under the eaves of our house.  I know standard romex is often used in attics, but the soffits seem like they might be more exposed to weather.  Our soffits are enclosed, like so: (picture from )   So, do I need to protect any wires which reach into the soffit, such as would power the pictured light?  Or should I use wire rated for exterior use?  I'm also plotting some Cat 5e runs of a similar nature, should those be protected/exterior as well?