On my speedlight I have several settings for multi flash, mostly to do with how many flashes and how fast they are fired.  When might you use multi flash? The only thing I can think of is cases where you want to expose a moving object several times during the same exposure.
120511
What can be done with the MULTI-Flash feature of a 580ex II flash?  What are good situations to use this feature?
110355
Not so long ago, AC-powered studio lights were the only option for serious studio photography, and low-cost starter sets like  this ¹ were a fixture in every neighborhood camera shop. With the digital revolution and explosion of consumer photography, speedlight-style² portable flash is increasingly sophisticated, cheap, and powerful.  If I'm building up a new portrait studio, what are the advantages and disadvantages of cheap "monoblock" studio strobes like those in that kit vs. speedlights? In what situations would one choice have an advantage over the other? I assume the AC-powered strobes are much more powerful than a typical³ speedlight; how much more powerful — and when does it matter?  What about as we go ? Do the pros and cons change if I have a lot of money to spend? Are there advantages that expensive studio lights have that the low-end kit doesn't offer?  Fundamentally, if you're buying a digital camera, buying a cheap  (perhaps used and out-modeled) interchangeable lens camera gets you into a whole different level of system, better for really learning photography than than a fully-automatic point and shoot which might even cost more. Do studio strobes offer similar advantages in what you can do, or is it a different situation?    1. Chosen at random. Not an endorsement. / 2. We sometimes  hotshoe flash, but in this case they might be in a cold shoe controlled wirelessly. / 3. Extra question: products like the GN80 bare-bulb, separate-power-pack yet hotshoe mount  seem to blur the lines; how do this and similar products fit in?
110297
I have a Canon 5DMk2 and have just bought 2 Yongnuo YN568EXII speed lights. I have an existing Yongnuo RF-603CII trigger, but I cannot get them to work together! Does anyone have any suggestions, as the manual is no use :( Thanks Steve
30812
In answer to , Adam Davis writes:     Your camera complicates this by using   a rolling shutter above a given speed   (usually around 1/200. This means that   only a portion of the image sensor is   exposed to the scene at any given   time, so if the light changes during   the exposure, the color change will   only affect a portion of the image   sensor.   Rolling shutters often are also mentioned in the .  However, I am yet to see a discussion of what a rolling shutter is, how it works and when it is important.  What is a rolling shutter?  What are the implications of using one for my photos?
79982
When trying to get started with flash photography, there are a lot of new options, features and techniques that a photographer gets thrown in to.  When starting on a budget, what features will give a flash the most bang for the buck for people just starting out in flash photography that don't have a lot of money to spend?
43068
I'm trying to get an idea of which Yongnuo flash will fit my requirements. I'd like to have a flash to pair with my SB-900 with TTL support for use both on and off camera (Nikon CLS-compatible). My camera is the Nikon D7000.  Power and flash zooming are not really important to me.  I'd be much happier with answers that let me understand Yongnuo's flash lineup. Thank you in advance!
84248
I'm very new to digital photography, so I still haven't gotten the hang of all this exposure and ISO stuff, etc. I have a Canon EOS T3.   My question is how big of a difference does it make using manual settings rather than auto settings for everything? I've taken some pretty nice photos with all auto settings, and I'm not sure if it could have turned out any better using manual settings. I know that there are some people who have been in the game for years upon years, and to them they can notice the difference between photos taken with manual vs auto settings, but for my situation, do you think it really makes a difference? Is my camera smart enough to determine the best settings for me?  Also, lets say manual settings are better (which I'm sure they are, since they give you greater control). How often are you supposed to adjust your settings? Between every shot, considering they are unique shots? Or does it not matter about the object, but rather the lighting environment? So if I'm in a forest at 2:00 PM on a sunny bright day and I take photos for one hour, should I be constantly adjusting my settings between every unique shot to get the best out of it? Or do I usually just find one setting that works for the environment I'm in?
58084
Can someone please explain to me what ISO means in the camera settings?  In , I was told to use ISO 1600. What does that number really mean? When should I play with ISO settings, only on night pictures, or also during the day?  I get that it's the sensitivity of the sensor. What I don't understand is: why the higher ISO, the more noise? I am confused; if the sensor is more sensitive, shouldn't it get more color or more quality?
1693
Let's say I have a micro-4/3rd camera and a full frame camera, both set to 1/60 at f/2.8, taking a picture of the same scene in the same lighting. Will the exposure be the same across both cameras despite the different sensor sizes?  The reason why I'm asking is because of the difference in depth of field between micro-4/3 and full frame sensors. I'm finding that, in order to take a picture of certain scenes with the full frame camera at the same depth of field as the micro-4/3rd camera, I have to increase the aperture, which in turn forces me to crank up the ISO.
84247
Suppose we have time to shoot with an DSLR. Before actually shooting, some settings have to be adjusted to get a picture. Suppose we have a brand new DSLR in hand and every setting has to be defined.  Of course, getting the right picture depends on the subject, the context, the personal taste, etc. but I don't matter on the artistic point of view, just on the order (if such a determined one exists) and the importance of all the required technical step.  As a debutant, I imagine it could be this (rather simple) one:   ISO, depending on the current lightness ; white balance, depending on the light color ; aperture, depending on the desired depth of field ; composition, depending on the subject ; shutter speed, depending on the desired exposition ;   and finally...   SHOOT!   Is this a correct way to handle things? Is such an order (this one or another) very typical or does it change for each picture? If different, what's yours, and why?
33059
We all know that shutters wear out and they have a limited number of actuation's.  The question I have is, do sensors wear out too? Do they suffer any kind of damage after each shot?  Should I be concerned about this or is the sensor lifespan way longer than the shutter lifespan?
116349
I am a natural light photographer that is venturing into studio/backdrop portraits at the request of some of my clients.  I have a portable studio for my needs with a white muslin backdrop.    I am using one (maybe two) Speedlite 580 EX flashes with shoot through umbrellas as lighting.  In my practice shots, I cannot seem to get a nice "blown out" white background without dulling my subjects (decreased contrast/lighter exposure on their face and clothes).    I am not a fan of seeing the muslin draped or crinkled in the background... although I know that's definitely a style... I will probably iron it but I can never get it perfectly flat and plus I need to transport it so it will get some wrinkles.  Also, what can I do to avoid any shadows against the backdrop itself (shadows created by the subject).  I do have them placed slightly away from the backdrop but kids sometimes move around.   Also if I am doing little children, I don't think having a small backlight would be practical (not that I have one... )
121731
If I use a shutter speed below 1/30 on my Nikon P100, I get extremely dark images which are completely unusable. If I use the flash, it comes out fairly bright but just not natural.  My camera supports shutter speeds as fast as 1/2000 and as slow as 8 seconds. How do I use them correctly? What should I take into account before shooting, what else do I have to configure or use?
123482
What f/# do you use to photograph people, and why? I know this varies from shot to shot.  Let's suppose that you are photographing either a single person or a couple, that it it outside on a somewhat overcast day. What depth of field do you prefer to use, and why?  What about indoors in a more-controlled setting — what is typically used in studio photography?  What about in other conditions?
107045
I see a lot of questions about low light, and one of them which stood out to me was   All my flash pictures tend to turn out great, but my shots in low light without flash are always terrible   blurry bad colors under exposed   My setup is: Nikon D3200 with a 35mm f/1.8 prime.  After reading the above question, it seemed that I should have gotten a good photo, but below is what I got in RAW. Settings: ISO 800, 35mm, f/1.8 1/15sec.     Can someone give me a suggestion of what my settings should have been, perhaps? (Remember that I don't want to use the flash, so I can capture the ambient). It's typically situations or candid portraits like this I would be taking. Also any advice on what quick adjustments I could make if I get a dim result like below?  I don't want to ask for the subject to stand still until I get a great shot, so if I get a poor result on my first trial, what settings should I immediately switch to in order to hopefully get my second shot closer to a likeable shot?  Note: getting another body or lens would be a last resort if I run out of options.
55706
Under what circumstances would you use aperture priority vs. shutter priority and vice-versa?  I typically don’t use shutter priority (ever) and favor aperture priority to try to get a max aperture with the thinking that I’ll get more light and a better low light shot. But after getting almost all my shots being blurry and the help of a couple questions posted here I learned I should use faster shutter speeds to get clear shots.  What my question boils down to is me trying to get a firmer understanding when to use one over the other, and why.  Thanks all.
79325
I've got a very difficult shot coming up. I'm photographing moonlight on a country meadow. I do not want to do post work. I need to do everything real time (for reasons too long to get into, there is more going on in the shot that will just complicate the question.)  My only option is to use filters during my shot, to capture the way we perceive moonlight. The camera picks up moonlight as white light. Our eyes, however, perceive it as very desaturated with a slight hint of blue. I've got a blue filter, but the shot just comes out far too blue. I need to desaturate the light coming in to the camera (almost black and white.) Is there any possible way to use lens filters to desaturate light?  I can't shoot in b&amp;w as I'm not only exposing the moonlight, but also a girl with a glowing balloon in the scene. It's all got to be done in one exposure.   Is there any way I can desaturate the light with use of a filter or series of filters?  Thanks a heap guys.  More info: thanks so much everybody, you all are right, but here's why and what I need. I'm having the girl and the balloons to be illuminated with lights and the balloons are going to be different colors and glowing. So she is going to be in full glory color, but she's going to be sitting in dim moonlight. To get the moonlight look, I can desaturate in camera settings and use a filter. But when its time to take the cap off the lens (shutter still open after capturing moonlight) and exposing the girl and balloons, the camera is going to capture her and the balloons in those same desaturated settings. My camera will not change settings in mid exposure, and although I think it can combine two exposures, this is a messier way of getting where I'm trying to go. And post is just about impossible. To capture full color in the image, and then darken and blue and desaturate the rest of the scenery is extremely imperfect.