Is there any go-to method for getting good exposure of both sky and land in landscape photography in broad daylight landscape photography?  I've noticed that in my dlsr and smart phone, I'm typically able to expose one or the other, but not both.  However, I feel like I've seen a number of images that have nice clouds, gradations of blue, along with pretty trees, nice fields, etc.  Are these done with multiple exposures? Or filters that reduce the brightness of the sky? Is there a go to method it is it catch as catch can?
123509
I have spent some time photographing landscapes with blue sky and white clouds, but the clouds always come out overexposed.  I have tried different settings and still have the same result. What should I do to get correct exposure?
6288
I took a picture once in a beautiful location with an awesome background, and a cool location to get the shot. The problem is, the location of the subject had substantially less light then the background, giving a silhouette effect. Without using an external flash, and on a low budget, what could I do to improve this picture?  Specifically, I shooting with a DSLR, outdoors. The DSLR has a small pop-up flash. The nearest good light source was maybe 5-10 feet away.   Thanks guys!    How do I avoid a dark subject when there's bright sunlight from windows?  by   I recently shot some photos at a friend's wedding. The location was lovely with lots of light — sometimes too much. The sunlight from the windows and skylights seemed to overpower the shot and the subject/people were very dark. What are some ways to avoid this without using fancy equipment? (I'm just starting out, I'm not a wedding photographer or anything!)  Here is one example I took — and this is after I've lightened it somewhat with Picasa:    I'm using a Nikon D5000 with a standard 18-55mm lens.
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I was trying to make a photo of my girlfriend around 9 pm with a D7000, Sigma 24-70 2.8, and SB-900. She was in the center of the frame, taking up about 20% of the frame. About 40% was taken up by ground, and the rest was the dark heavens.  I set my camera dial to A (aperture mode), aperture to f/2.8, ISO set to 400 and the SB-900 set to TTL mode. I was also experimenting with exposure (+0,7), yet all my photos had a dark background.  What can I do to expose at night without a totally black background?
92935
is it possible to take clear night sky shots with stars/ planets visible from Redmi Note 4? what settings do I use? when I try to take it just comes black, unless on full moon day with HDR, though stars like Orion's belt won't get captured. Would using a telescope make celestial objects much clear to capture?
25035
I would like to take a picture of a street during the day to depict how much traffic and cars there are on the street.  Is there anyway to do this with a long exposure photograph?  I have a Nikon D90 and I set the f stop down to 1/16 (the lowest of my lens) and set the time to 2 seconds. Doing this, the exposure is almost saturated when taken around 5pm with the sun setting behind a tree. Doing this, the cars passing by were very hard to make out against the stationary background, being visible as a blur in the color of the car.  Perhaps this is not possible and I should just do this at night where the cars lights are much brighter than the background.  Please suggest how else I might depict the traffic in a photograph?  Are daytime long exposure photographs even possible?
96442
We don't get much snow in the UK, so I don't have much experience photographing it, and when I tried photographing falling snow last year I found it very hard to capture the snowflakes in the air — they either didn't show up or were just streaks. Is there a shutter speed that is best for this? I don't want to use flash to do so.  Any other snow photography tips welcome from those in snowier places!
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I would like to understand the term white balance. My camera has settings for white balance with the following options:   Auto white balance Daylight Cloudy Shade Flash Incandescent lights White set1 / White set2 White balance K set   Can anyone throw some, well, light on this? Also, is there any relation of white balance with the exposure while taking snaps? This is, if the exposure is high, then do we need to set white balance to low, or something like that?
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A friend has been kind enough to lend me a DSLR for a few months.  It's my first foray into DSLR photography, or indeed any kind of photography beyond simply aiming my Canon IXUS at something and clicking the button.    Over the last few weeks, I've been busy studying, practising and trying to learn as much as possible ahead of a planned trip to Norway where I hope to see, and get some photos of, the Aurora Borealis.  I currently have:   Canon Rebel Xsi (450D) Canon 50mm f/1.4 L  Canon 18-55m kit lens Aluminium full height tripod with ball head Cable release Spare battery &amp; memory cards   I'm prepared to spend the night wrapped up outdoors, in the hope that they will make an appearance. I'd like some advice on how to get the most out of this kit for the trip:   How should I go about setting up to get pics of the Aurora?  How might I achieve optimum focus? From what I've read, I'll need to use the tripod and cable release, with IS turned off, on continuous shooting mode with long exposure times. But I'd like some more specific tips in terms of which aperture and ISO settings might work best? Should I use one of the lenses above, or would it be worthwhile renting a better, wide angle lens; if so, which would you recommend?
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I went out and captured the Milky Way and because I have a 18mm-55mm 1: f3.5 5.5 lens I had to turn the camera sideways and stitch them together in photoshop and just having to work with what I got at the moment until I can afford something better but I was really happy with how it turned out! but I'd like to take it to the next step and maybe have a foreground or myself in the picture. So this brings me to the question, How do people capture the Milky Way/stars with themselves in it so clearly or sitting around the fire without it being over exposed. Is this through post processing and how do they do this, I can't necessarily completely understand how to do it. Such like these:
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I have wondered how to get some parts of the image out of focus when using smartphone cameras (or if it can even be done). Recently found out about the concept of bokeh, and am interested in techniques to use it in image composition for cell phone cameras (the typical 8MP low aperture size digicams prevalent in recent Android devices).
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Can you suggest me what kind of settings would I need to make these kind of pictures.  The scenario will be just like the pictures:  Outdoors, lights on the streets, and maybe very small rivers with houses and lights on each side.  Just like Venice or Brugge in Belgium.
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I'd like to create one of those "stacked" action shot images where multiple exposures are combined to show the subject moving across a static background.   (by ):   Ideally, I'd like tips both for the photography part of this and for post-processing.  For example, I'd imagine I want to shoot manual w/ the same exposure for all shots (as with a panorama), but I'm not sure if there are any other helpful tips for taking the shots.  At one point, for example, I thought I'd have to tripod-mount the camera and keep the same framing for all shots, but I've now seen several examples where the composition moved from shot-to-shot.  I'm also interested in recommendations for post-processing -- software, technique, etc.  I can envision a manual process where I stack layers and align them by hand in Photoshop Express, but I'd be surprised if there wasn't a better way — maybe using a pano tool like Hugin.
16694
I am enjoying taking candid photos of people, but the subject is usually someone I know, or it is during some family/friend event, so after a while the people get used to the presence of the camera and act quite naturally.  I like "street photography" which captures ordinary people in everyday situations and I am thinking about giving it a try.  If you have experience in that type of photography, could you share some tips on how to approach people in a way that the the presence of the camera is not too obtrusive, and you can achieve the natural look on your photos?  I am not interested in paparazzi-style shooting using telephoto lenses, but more in photos taken within the range of 24-85mm lens, which means that you need to be pretty close to the subject.
31629
I spent a good hour today moseying after some azure-winged magpies. We had a nice waltz across a parkland, they rarely letting me get close enough to even contemplate a shot. As such, I spent long stretches (~10min) with my Nikon DSLR on but not in use.  And then I began wondering about power drain in such situations (switched on but untouched), and how different that status actually was from off, and after what period of time it makes sense to go ahead and switch the camera off?
107045
I see a lot of questions about low light, and one of them which stood out to me was   All my flash pictures tend to turn out great, but my shots in low light without flash are always terrible   blurry bad colors under exposed   My setup is: Nikon D3200 with a 35mm f/1.8 prime.  After reading the above question, it seemed that I should have gotten a good photo, but below is what I got in RAW. Settings: ISO 800, 35mm, f/1.8 1/15sec.     Can someone give me a suggestion of what my settings should have been, perhaps? (Remember that I don't want to use the flash, so I can capture the ambient). It's typically situations or candid portraits like this I would be taking. Also any advice on what quick adjustments I could make if I get a dim result like below?  I don't want to ask for the subject to stand still until I get a great shot, so if I get a poor result on my first trial, what settings should I immediately switch to in order to hopefully get my second shot closer to a likeable shot?  Note: getting another body or lens would be a last resort if I run out of options.
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I know that this effect occurs when there's a shallow depth of field.  My question is, what are the various ways I can increase this effect in my photos when I'm taking them?    Note that I'm not asking  how to use an editing program to achieve this effect after in post production or after the image is captured.
81033
I'm trying to do long exposure photos with car headlight trails and am finding the results a little disappointing due to the low 'impact' of the light trails.  I believe there are a few things affecting this, namely   length of exposure (currently limited to about 90s at min ISO and aperture) the amount of traffic the level of light given off by street lamps   I believe 1 &amp; 2 can be fixed by the addition of an ND filter and choosing a busier time to take the pictures, but am not sure how I can address 3.  Is there some sort of filter I can use which will minimise the effect of the street lamps without cutting out too much of the light from car headlamps/tail lamps?  Here's an example of what I've done so far: