I have a MacBook Pro Retina Early 2015 model, that I have owned for 2 years. It was working absolutely fine just yesterday (or the day before). I consulted an Apple authorized service center that said I needed to replace the battery but I was confused how could the battery die overnight. So I contacted another Apple authorized service center. They took in my laptop for diagnosis for a couple of days and told me that the "topcase" was faulty and needed to be replaced. Of course they are also charging a hefty sum of money for it.  I have two questions:   What is a topcase? (sorry i am slightly technologically challenged) Is there any way around my problem. I really don't think I can afford a new top case.   My laptop works fine on AC power, it's just that it's not a laptop anymore if I always have to keep it plugged in.  Thanks for you help in advance.
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Apple's site says it is $199 to replace the battery.   Do the techs replace the entire top portion of the case including  the keyboard and trackpad?   I've read a few things on the internet alluding to that since the battery is glued in, they replace the entire assembly.     Just wondering if this includes the keyboard and track pad.   (I think it must include the keyboard since it is riveted in).  I'm wondering specifically about the trackpad, since mine has been flaky for a while, and now battery is about due for replacement.   Mine is a mid 2012 macbook pro retina.  Update:  Had this done, and for the low price of $199 I got a new keyboard, trackpad and topcase as part of the deal, as expected.   I can't believe how worn out my old keyboard was!
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To make a long question short: What's the proper way to replace a rubber spring (inverted cup-like thing) under a keycap, specifically the Tab key on a unibody design MacBook Pro or Air?    Details: I just bought a used MacBook Pro (so it's out of warranty), and noticed the Tab key felt spongy. Also, after first opening up the laptop, the key seemed to be stuck down until I tapped it a few times.  I had a replacement rubber spring from my old MacBook, so I tore the one off the new laptop and put that one in its place, without gluing it down or anything. Right away after that I noticed that pressing Caps Lock would sometimes trigger a tab; maybe one time in seven or eight presses. Worried I had shorted something, I shut down, repositioned the spring, and booted back up, and things seemed normal again.  Satisfied with the way the Tab key was now behaving, I decided to superglue the spring as instructed :  Squeeze a small amount of super glue onto a sheet of paper. Then dip the edge of the rubber cup into the super glue. Then place the rubber cup in its place. Let it dry. You want to have the minimum amount of glue on your cup, just enough to make the cup stick while installing the hinges onto your keyboard.   I let the glue dry for a few seconds before putting the key cap back on, and while I was waiting I pressed on the spring a few times to make sure it was still springy. Unfortunately, I got way more glue on the spring than I had intended, and it oozed out a little. I also later realized the spring was displaced a little from where the original one had been (as evidenced by the still-visible metal circle under it).  When that was done and I booted back up, I found the key to be better than before, but it still seemed to require a little more pressure than other keys, and it didn't make the same clicky sound when I hit it. I decided to live with that. However, when I opened the laptop again this morning, I found that the Tab key, although it still works, moves up and down very slowly; it takes a second or two to pop back up after I press it. There really isn't any tactile feedback to speak of, so it's worse than when I started. Tapping it quickly a few times didn't cause it to release, the way it used to.  I'm about to order a new rubber spring and hinge kit (and maybe a key cap). How should I install the new spring to make the Tab key act like new again? Is there a specific way I should clean off the old rubber and super glue?
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I have a MBP late 2011 running El Capitan, recently my battery died (x over the icon and "no battery available" in the dropdown.) I've noticed since then that CPU intensive tasks are very slow, and I read that without a battery macs will throttle the CPU to half capacity.  So now I'm looking for one of two solutions:  1) Either somehow disable the throttling, or  2) Trick the computer into thinking it has a battery.  In regard to the first one I've tried a few things such as described , removing a plist file that supposedly controlled it, but that hasn't helped. Any help would be greatly appreciated, TIA.  Edit: I've looked over the question about a 2006 MacBook, it's similar but I've tried everything outlined there and nothing has worked. I'm curious if there are any new ideas. I think the difference may be El Capitan.
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Last night i factory reset my mums mums MacBook pro.  I had got to the point where I had to re install mac os x. I selected the hard drive I wanted it on and it prompted me with a apple id sign in. I knew from then that my or my mothers apple Id wasn't going to work because my mum told me she had got it off trade me ( like ebay but in NZ )  I've tried making a bootable usb drive to re install lion os x but it didn't work, or I just didn't do it right. Its a MacBook Pro 2010 mid I think and I am stumped on what to do, now that it has no operating system on it or anything on it now, only thing that works is the utilities mode.  All help is very appreciated.   Thanks
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I'm considering buying a solid state drive for my Unibody White MacBook 2010. The trouble is, I have no idea what to look for. What kind of connector am I looking for? (SATA?) What size? I'm told to get the kind that Apple uses so that I don't void my AppleCare warranty. What model/brand(s) would that be?
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I recently ran yes &gt; /dev/null for a 3 minutes to drain my Mac's battery. During that time, the temperature rose to 72 °C and fans spun up to 4000 RPM. I immediately quit the process.   Should I fear that has this damaged hardware or the logic board?
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Macbook pro Mid-2012 - Keyboard not working (Space and Caps lock only works) - Doesn't switch on using battery, when I remove the battery connector from board and Plug on AC it boots. I had recently changed the HDD to SSD myself.
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I have two Mac book Pros:    A 2013 Unibody retina that I use every day An older 2006 model with removable battery that I use a couple of times a month (when not in use, it's not connected to the AC. I recently replaced the battery, as the old one swelled apart).   I use them as desktop replacements, so I don't use the battery that often.   What's the best way to prolong battery lifespan? - If keeping the machines hooked up to the AC is a bad idea, then for how many hours each day should I use the battery?    Here is my research: There's a lot of conflicting advice.   Calibration  A lot of sources, say you should calibrate the battery by letting it run down to 0% each month. For example, this , this  article. All these articles were written in 2013/12 and cite Apple.com as the source for this advice.  However, the  page makes no reference to calibration. Is this because calibration is a bad idea, or is it because Apple no longer sells devices with removable batteries and so the advice is different?  Deep discharge  Other sources, such as this  question, imply that letting the battery drain is a bad idea, so using the AC whenever possible is actually a good thing.   Please note I am talking about the overall battery life span (e.g. the time the battery has before it needs to be replaced) and not increasing the day-to-day hours of the battery.
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I've been  on battery cycle counts and checked out my current count on my MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) - recommended maximum cycle count is 500.  I've had this laptop now for over 4 years and at the 2 year mark I had the battery replaced by AppleCare. The first time I checked out the cycle count was today and it's currently on 1004. Now my question is, is this the cycle count of the battery since I replaced it (as in, it reads the cycle count from the battery), or is it the combined cycle count (as in, it stores the count somewhere and increments occasionally)? My assumption is that it's the count of that battery but I have no idea how to verify this.  Either way, it looks like I need a new battery ;)
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Every time I close the lid of my Macbook Air, it turns off and I have to manually start it later when I open the lid again.  It also doesn't persist some of my settings such as volume level, desktop layouts (order of screens and which applications are full screened), and command line PATH changes such nvm's currently used node version.  Kind of a "you don't know what you don't know" situation. I'm not sure what to terms to use to search for this kind of behavior.  Edit: Adding some extra information as requested. I am on the following:   13-inch Macbook Air from Early 2014 Mac OS X El Capitan (10.11.6)   In System Preferences > Energy Saver > Battery, I have "Put hard disks to sleep when possible" checked and "Enable Power Nap while on battery power" unchecked.  I've looked through other potentially relevant areas of System Preferences and haven't found anything that works. I've done some Googling, but haven't found anything that is related and I'm unsure of what other terms I could use to search.  Edit 2: The issue seems to have been resolved. There's nothing in particular that I tried that worked, but it's resolved now. Thanks for reading and responding!
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I'd love some advice in repairing a water-damaged laptop.  My girlfriend spilled a glass of water on her Sony Vaio and now it doesn't turn on...at all...dead! What steps should I go through to work out where the problem is and which part(s) I'll need to replace?  I can't seem to find out what has happened by just looking at the circuit boards. I'm new to electronics but could buy relevant volt-meters etc. I'm just looking for a decent trouble-shooting guide.
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Sadly, yesterday I've spilled some water on my MacBook Pro (El Capitan). Before you yell at me - it was closed, turned off and it wasn't a lot of water, the laptop was wet only on the top and under - not inside.  Today I've turned him on. At first battery wasn't recharging for some reason, but SMC reset fixed the problem.  At the first booting speaker was like talking to me, hard to explain but it was weird. Also only right speaker was "talking", despite the fact that only left side of the laptop was watered. Then there was no sound at all, not from the speakers, nor from the headphones. Also microphone's not working. USB ports are okay. The water was spilled from the left side of the laptop. I know this is hardware issue, and something's broken, but I want to be 100% sure. No it's not muted. I've also tried NVRAM reset a few times, but it doesn't fix the problem :(  There might be one factor, before spilling, my laptop "died" for the first time (battery energy ran off), but I doubt it's the case. (but hey, every info matters, right?)  It wouldn't be weird for me, if only left speaker wouldn't work, but built-in microphone not working is kinda weird in this case, isn't it?  I just want to ask you guys, what else can I check, before I'll be 100% sure it's dead inside?  I've plugged in external microphone - it's not working too.
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My iPad mini retina is out of warranty,  I forgot to plug in my iPad after the critical battery warning and it went some minutes following the warning. I was not worried because same thing had happened a few times before and iPad was perfectly okay after charging it. However, this time I remember seeing a flash of blue screen immediately after it went black. Then, I plugged it in an waited for a while and tried starting it. Ever since, it fails to start hanging on the apple logo with white background screen.   I tried to connect to my Mac but nothing showed up in iTunes. I am worried now. Can I troubleshoot this or is it broken and needing repair?
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I bought the MBP around 2016 April. Few months ago, around 2018 Nov, bottom of the device appears a bit uneven, with slight gap with my desk. Over past few months, it wobbles more and more serious. Today I brought it to Apple Store Singapore for diagnostic, specialist at Genius Bar confirmed that it's caused by swollen battery. Consider it was just after about 2.5 years use, I find it hard to believe. According to the staff, it depends on usage. If under heavy usage or often charge it overnight, it's normal that MacBook Pro's battery can become swollen pretty soon.   My battery charge cycle is under 300, battery life drops a bit but still strong (9 hours instead of 10). I rarely charge overnight, normally turn AC power off and leave my MBP in sleep mode. I do use my MBP heavily though, say 10 to 13 hours a day. However, I still find it hard to accept the explanation given by Apple Singapore.  I wonder if other MBP 15" users experience the same? Or... am I the isolated case?  -- edit  To make the question more specific, is it generally expected that, Macbookpro battery will start swelling after 2-3 years use if laptop usage is heavy, e.g. 10-13 hours a day? The concern is not about the slightly reduced battery life (the battery life is still strong), but the physical expansion. I'm asking this because I've used few other laptops before, among which I never experience battery swelling except one (after near 5 years use). If the experience with my MBP is aligned with most other users, which means it's just a matter that I should adjust my expectation, and include the near SGD300 battery cost per 2-3 years into my next purchaser's consideration; Otherwise, I will try to ask them to consider replacing without me paying the full cost.   -- update 2019/6/21  Apple has just announced a battery recall for Macbook Pro 15" mid-2015 model. They confirmed that these batteries may pose fire safety risk:
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I see that the question &quot;why is my MacBook not charging?&quot; gets asked a lot. The problem is, there are multiple reasons. Possible points of failure are: charger, cable, magsafe connector, DC input board, logic board, battery. (Have I missed any?). What is the best sequence for a user to follow, to diagnose the problem? By way of example, here are the first steps that I usually try:  Make sure the charger is working. Either use your charger on a different Mac, or test a spare charger with your Mac.  Check the connection. There might be gunk in your port that's stopping the connector from lying flat.  Try resetting the SMC and PRAM.  If the computer boots, run Coconut Battery to determine battery status.   This is where I get a bit stuck. For example, I have a machine here that boots fine when plugged in, but not from battery. Disconnecting the MagSafe causes the machine to switch off. Sounds like it's a dead battery, except that Coconut reports the battery as detected, in good condition, but not charging. What steps should I take next? Specifically, I'm asking for a generic algorithm to help determine the source of the fault (preferably without swapping out lots of components one by one)?
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A few days ago my MacBook Pro slipped out of my hands and fell onto the tile floor. The outside got banged up quite a bit and the Touch Bar no longer lights up but still responds to touches sometimes but not all the time.   Anyway, since then it will randomly restart every once in a while with a kernel panic. I have the log posted below and wanted to know if anyone could tell me what is causing the panic?
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I dropped my macbook air and the screen is like this since.    Does anyone know what exactly happened to it? Is it hardware or software?