What I want to do is Format my SSD disk of my Mac Book Pro (2019), but I want to do it in a VERY safe way. So that there is no trace of the deleted files and nobody can access them anymore. That's why I think the best option is to look for a software that formats the disk doing a lot of reading and writing. I can't find good and reliable software that does that on a Mac. Is there one?
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I would like to sell my Macbook Pro, but I want to make sure that there is no way to retrieve the deleted data from my SSD. Is there a way to completely delete all files on a hard drive so that even a forensic expert cannot recover anything?
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I want to copy my some files from Mac (Macbook-Air) to an USB external hard drive, formatted as NTFS.  How is it possible? Because when I do copy my files from the Mac and go to paste them on the external HD there is no option for paste.
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I have 1 GB hard drive with files hidden on it due to a virus. All of its contents were gone after a virus got in when I gave the drive to someone else. After research found that it was a virus may be.  I ran Nortan Anti-Virus and removed a certain virus. Then ran Malwarebytes, now Ad-Aware and AVG 2011 Anti-Virus.  After that, I could see the files on my other computer. But now I have hooked this to my new MacBook Pro—which is running Windows—I can’t see the files. The Anti-Virus finds all the files and Mac OS X wrote a 400 MB directory there which I can see but nothing else.  How to fix this? Which program will fix it?
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My Mac Book Pro 13.-" doesn´t get past the grey booting screen with the apple and the spinning wheel (The loading bar appears but when it´s done nothing happens)   I have 220 GB in one single Partition (Macintosh HD) and there is all my work my music and the only copy of ALL MY PHOTOS. I´m so stupid I don´t have a backup of anything but know I have an external HD with 300GB space. I would like to repair my HDD but more important I need to save my files but I don´t know how to do it in Disk Utility Mode. I read there is a Diskwarrior but I don´t know how to install it without booting the mac. Please help!!!  When I start on Single User mode and enter /sbin/fsck -fs this appears  Executing fsck_hfs (version diskdev_cmds-557-393)  Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.  The volume name is Macintosh HD  Checking extents overflow file.  Checking catalog file  Incorrect number of thread records  (4, 23745)  Checking multi-linked files.  Checking catalog hierarchy  Invalid volume directory count (It should be 175703 instead of 175701) Checking extended attributes file.  Incorrect number of extended attributes (It should be 340062 instead of 340064)  Checking volume bitmap.  Checking volume information.  The volume Macintosh HD could not be repaired after 3 attempts.  *****The volume was modified *****   What are the next steps if fsck fails to repair a drive?
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When selling / throwing away / giving away HDDs I always use DBAN to do a DoD wipe first.  Is this still a valid thing to do on an SSD?  Will it have an adverse effect on the SSD's lifespan?
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During real, everyday use, that is?  I'm looking to upgrade a drive in a MacBook Pro, and am looking at either a 750GB/7200RPM or a 1TH/5400RPM drive.  Would I care about the speed difference? Is it worth giving up the additional space on the larger drive?
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I'm considering buying a solid state drive for my Unibody White MacBook 2010. The trouble is, I have no idea what to look for. What kind of connector am I looking for? (SATA?) What size? I'm told to get the kind that Apple uses so that I don't void my AppleCare warranty. What model/brand(s) would that be?
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I'm trying to disconnect my macbook from iCloud, as it's been creating some problems.  I was told by an Apple Support employee that doing so is only recommended once you've backed up everything from your Mac somewhere, to ensure you don't lose any files - so my goal is to upload everything to Google Drive before messing with my laptop's iCloud settings. The problem is, almost none of the projects that I want to back up to Google Drive are truly on my laptop - instead I mostly just have folders full of file names, which are placeholders for the real files that have been sucked into iCloud. This means I have to re-download everything to my computer before uploading it all to Google Drive. Another crucial piece of information is that I only have 1 GB of storage left on my macbook, which prevents me from re-downloading any complete projects/folders at a time. So unfortunately my current method is this: downloading 1-5 files at a time, uploading these few things to Google Drive, deleting the copies from my laptop and trash, repeat (thousands of times). So, I was wondering if anyone could offer any alternative methods for uploading stuff to Google Drive in this situation - for example, is there a way to transfer files directly from iCloud to Google Drive without having to download them to my laptop first? I should probably mention that I've scoured my laptop for duplicated files and applications I no longer use, make sure to empty my trash regularly, etc (I also asked Apple Support to help me make sure I wasn't missing out on any other ways to maximize storage space). The most obvious culprit of my lack of space is the massive 150 GB iCloud folder on my laptop, which appears to contain duplicates of everything on my computer. I can't seem to do anything about it until I've disconnected from iCloud itself (its reasons for existence are unclear to me in the first place...but that's beside the point lol).
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Aiming to have a large internal HDD to store files, and several OSes on separate disks. They all need to read and write to one storage drive.  Ubuntu (13.04+) Mac OSX (10.8+) Windows (7+)   What format should the drive be? Would like to avoid buying third party software, here's what I have discerned so far:   NTFS - Can't be written to by Mac without buying third party software?      ext3 - Windows can't read, . Mac has  HFS+ -  exFAT - , but
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So I am attempting to create a Windows 10 install USB on my MBP running macOS 10.14 Mojave. To create a bootable USB it needs to be formatted into FAT32, not exFAT. The issue is that when copying the .iso to the USB it fails because the file sources/install.wim is 4.4GB. I can't format as exFAT because I cannot boot from that format and I cannot use FAT32 because of the 4.4GB file. I used the command cp -rpv /Volumes/CCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9/* /Volumes/WINDOWS10/ after Boot Camp Assistant failed to create the  USB with a "Drive too small" error, even though it was a 16GB drive. When I wasn't paying attention, the cp completed and the installer booted, but failed with a missing: sources/install.wim error because the file can't be copied.  Is there any solution to this problem, or should I just burn a DVD with the installer on it?  EDIT: I forgot to specify that I was creating a USB for a PC, not a Mac. The Mac was just being used to create an install USB.  Heres the file:
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I have a 2&nbsp;GB Kingston  card which is about three years old. I put it in a reader today in my Windows Vista computer, wrote a 32&nbsp;MB file onto it, safely removed it, and then tried to read it elsewhere. Nothing. Putting it back in the Windows Vista computer it now says:     You need to format the disk in drive F: before you can use it.   What should I do? I have access to many computers and OSes if your recommendations need that. I would be very sad if I lost all the contents of the card. Most of the data is backed up, but there are a few things that aren't. :(  Doing a   # dd if=/dev/sdg of=~/tmp/sd.bin   gives me a 2&nbsp;GB file, and  the file it seems like lots of my data is still there. How can I put it back together?
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It is known that after exceeding amount of write procedures to a particular SSD sector this sector dies and is replaced with another one from reserved ones. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.  I suppose it might be unsafe to use SSD disc for very long time. But I would like to know how much damaged is my disc, how many damaged sectors it has? How to get such info? Is there any useful software to check it?
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Is there a way (eg. a binary hack into Finder) to stop it from creating .DS-Stores on LOCAL Volumes?   I am using Leopard, therefore these don't work:    (requires Lion)  (requires Snow Leopard)   Also,  slows down my computer.
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Possible Duplicate:          I have a rather large USB drive that I'd like to be able to use across the different machines I own.  I'm having a hard time figuring out what would be the best file system to use on it to be able to read/write things from the 3 OSs I'm in contact with: Windows, Linux and Mac.  Suggestions?
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I have a new Mac Pro with a small 256GB SSD. I have a larger 2TB drive that I run backups to.  My girlfriend has a MacBook Air with a tiny 128GB SSD.  Our problem is our iPhones have 50GB of music, pictures and apps, so backing them up on iTunes on our boot drives would be a suicide. Right now I have an old Mac Pro with plenty of disk space I use for my iPhone but I would like to use my primary computer.  Whats the best way to have everything with iTunes/iPhoto just go to an external drive? And is it possible for both of us use the same set of drives? Could we just use an Apple Time Capsule for both of our machines? And then couldn't we just figure out how to make iTunes and iPhoto to look for that network drive to work?
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Is there a way to recover deleted data from a SSD / USB Flash drive?  All I could find were recovery for damaged drives, but I want to recover deleted data.  So how do I do this?
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What is currently the best file system to use for drives that are regularly accessed (both reading and writing) from both Windows and OS X on a single machine using BootCamp. The most important points are stability and speed.  I've been using NTFS so far, coming from a Windows background. I've tried the NTFS-3G driver with Fuse and, in my tests, it was far slower than native NTFS under Windows. I also tried their commercial driver without much better results.  Afterward I tried Paragon's drivers, which were much faster. They aren't quite native NTFS speed, but they aren't far off either. The problem is I've had crashes with them, and recently had crashes + data loss with them.  I know this question has been asked before, but the posts I saw were older and the driver and filesystem options are maturing.  Options I've seen:   FAT32: Limited drive size? Limited permission settings NTFS: Limited speed/stability under OS X HFS+: MacDrive? available for Windows   Follow Up  I have now formatted one of the drives as exFAT and can confirm that this works great for both reading and writing when the machine is booted into either OS X or Windows 7.