Looking for info. All I can find on Google is a pic that matches but no information. Its apparently a Cycle Rite Dilecta made in Austria single speed with coaster brake.  Looking for some information on this bike. It has cycle rite as the badge its a single gear with coaster brake. It either say Dilecta, or Oilecta on the side. Has made in Austria on it as well.
5925
We often get questions on bicycles.stackexchange about identifying a bicycles manufacturer, model, make, and year.  Often these questions are downvoted or closed -- usually with a comment attached to them that it's not necessary to know the exact model/make/year of a bicycle if you want to fix, repair, or ride your bike. Why should owners not care about the model/make/year of their bicycle? Especially when it comes to less expensive bikes (aka BSOs) and BMX bicycles? This is intended as a canonical question that we can point closed questions to. Also see      (generally not helpful for identifying a brand/model)
108102
Disk brakes are becomming more popular on bikes now, and I was just wondering what the advantage is of this type of brake over the older rim brakes.
62042
Really struggling with these brakes now. Just installed new pads, but pistons won't separate far enough to put the wheels back in. Tried pushing the piston in using a  plastic tyre remover, but no joy. It seems like one pad (hub side in both cases, front and back) is a lot further out that the other, which suggests sticky pads.  I'm also a bit confused as the pistons move (both pistons on both brakes) as soon as the actuator arm starts moving. I thought they were supposed to have a delay as a valve closed, so I'm wondering if they're actually properly set up at all. I can't see where the bleed valve is though, and if it's opening.  Any advice gratefully received!  Edit; I think there's three problems I'm working on here; i.) The pads are asymmetric; the outside pads are barely showing, the inside ones are protruding by about 2-3mm. ii.) Even with the cable detached and the arms locked out I can't push the protruding pad in. It moves slightly under extreme force, but moves back after the force is removed. iii.) The pads move as soon as the brake lever moves, which I don't think is right.  I'm going to try and clean the edges of the pistons I can get to, as following this you tube video                                and see if that helps at all, will report back.
110342
I went to a bike shop for new tires. I did not know which tires fit on my bike, so I just showed them my bike.  When I took a look at the new tires, there was a label at the side, which says:     40-622 (700x38C-28x1 5/8 x 1 1/2)   What do all these numbers mean? I am asking for two reasons:   I would like to find the right tires for my bike in the future myself When buying another bike, I would like to buy one where I can use this tires as well
90532
I am doing a cycle tour of Japan starting from Fukuoka and ending in Tokyo. I will be flying with the bike and as my start and end points differ I will not have the opportunity to use a box (unless anyone has any ideas?). I will most likely use one of  bags and I have been told by the airline that nothing is necessary by way of packing the bike but I would naturally like to see my bike in one piece at the other end. The bike is a Specialized Tricross with disc brakes. Does anyone have any pointers as to the safest way to package something like this. I think I will definitely take the rear dérailleur off and wrap bubble wrap along the length of the bike to protect the wheels, pedals etc but other than that I'm not sure what lengths to go to. Does anybody have any experience or ideas?
27867
I bought a Repco Warrior 29 mountain bike 3 months ago. The back tyre is now almost bald and needs to be replaced. Because of where I live there are no bike shops, so I can't buy tyres here and will have to order them from overseas.  My problem is that 3 months seems a short time to have to replace tyres (although it does see a lot of miles since I use it a lot). I don't ride offroad, and I'm wondering if that's part of the issue with the rapid wear.  Before I order any tyres, can anyone tell me through experience if it's a good idea (or even possible) to put road tyres on my mountain bike. Are there any pro's and cons to it? Should I replace both tyres or just the back one?  Update:- I now have my new tyres, ordered brake pads as well, and immediately noticed the smoother, easier, quieter ride on the way home (about an hour) Cheers all for the advice.
47777
I recently bought a Carreras centos limited edition mountain bike. I want to find out how to make my suspension bouncier and I want to experience a MUCH more comfortable ride. I have tried fiddling around with the knobs that say preload on them but it isn't making the ride any different. I am quite small and I don't know whether that is affecting the suspensions bounciness. Please help.
98155
My cycle has got an front disc brake I not know how but unfortunately few drops of oil got on my disc brake now it was making a very bad sound like a violen and and could even not able to stop my cycle at all now I have only one way to fix it,s you please help me
61835
I bought and installed a set of pre-bled hydraulic brakes onto my bike to replace the mechanical discs that came with it. My future plan is to buy a new bike, transfer the brakes to my wife's bike and replace the old discs onto my bike and sell it.  In the meantime I have a very long rear line, about 30cm extra, that I'm struggling to manage. I've looped it and cable tied it on both sides of the loop, once back on itself and again to the front brake line. Unfortunately this solution slips a lot so I'm looking for a better one. At this stage performance of the brakes seems ok with this method.  Does anyone know of a better solution or is getting them shortened by my LBS the way to go?
94780
My second hand MTB frame has no decal on it. To me it looks like a downhill frame. I was told it's an Orange but now that I look at it I don't know how to tell. The serial number is JSG0111.
1035
This is a canonical question that will hopefully encompass all of the questions we get asking us to determine what year a bicycle was manufactured (how old is my bike, how old is my frame, etc.). Each "answer" should address a different way to determine the manufacturing year of a bicycle. To some extent, these will also help you narrow down the model as well as it will tell you what distinguishing features to look at.  The span of answers would include things such as:      Skiptooth cranks Cartridge bottom brackets (BB30/90 etc) Elliptical chainring Quick releases versus contemporary through-axles How the steerer attaches to the fork (quill vs. threadless)  Braking system (especially with mountain bikes: v-brake, direct pull, etc.)   Shifting ramps and pins on cassettes/sprockets and chainrings (versus flat sprockets) Frame material (e.g., shift from tubular steel to use of CF and hydroformed aluminium)  Frame tubing type (e.g. Reynolds 531 tubing introduced around 1934, still used today; Reynolds 501 tubing introduced around 1983). So a frame with an original 501 decal can't be from the 70', 531 decal doesn't help as much because of the range of years produced. Also, see Decals.   *Decals: style/design, amount, placement, color, etc. can help not only determine models, but also year of manufacture. Many changed decal design for the same model bike often yearly, with special/limited editions even more specific. This applies only if decals are original or have been replaced with the identical design. Tubing decals (Reynolds, Columbus, etc.) also changed designs for same tubing made in different years, although the changes aren't made as often, and manufacturers didn't always put tubing Brand decals on every model. Earlier bikes tended to have less fancy, less colorful, less quantity of decals.   Headbadges: most early bikes had actual "badges", often quite detailed and fancy, made of metal, then plastic, and finally just using decals on the headtube. Most bikes lost their metal badges in the 60's and early 70's, although some brands still have actual badges to this day, but in general a real badge indicates an earlier model bike. Dropout style (including the later inclusion of lawyers lips) Presence or absence of CPSC reflectors (USA only) Manufacturing method (shift from lugs to TIG welding, for example)  Number of gears (shift from 2x5 ten-speed to 3x8, 2x9, 1x11, etc.)  Inspection of lug design: pantographs, cut-out, stampings, custom brazing/filing, chrome, fork crow n sweep, etc. Frame/Fork Braze-ons. Race bikes tended have less braze-ons the earlier the year of manufacture. Most 60's racers and earlier had few or none with cable guides/stops, shifters, bidons, etc. being clamp-on. By the 80's if it was clamp-on, it was a sign of very cheap models and most frames had braze-ons for all cables, with multiple bottle and accessory bosses depending on style and use.   and so forth. Please edit this question if you have an answer that isn't in the index above.   A couple of caveats:   A previous owner could have replaced or upgraded components on a bicycle, so this guide only applies to original equipment There is a delay between the introduction of a technology (such as indexed shifting) and when manufacturers start selling products that use it. Low-end manufacturers may continue using technology that is severely outdated (such as one-piece cranks, freewheels, or quill stems) because it is cheaper to do so. A number of bikes are built in a Retro style, but with modern components.  Dutch bikes, trendy coffee cruisers, and beach cruisers may be modern but appear to be 1950s styling.  These tend to have modern rims and brakes as a giveaway.     Note that bicycles.stackexchange does not do valuations of bicycles. How much your bicycle is worth depends on the location of the buyer and seller, how much the buyer wants the bike, etc. etc. etc.
106287
The spec sheet for the Shimano Alivio FD-M430 front derailleur contains a number of points that I don't understand.   What does "Maximum capacity: 22 teeth" mean? Why are "Top gear teeth" constrained to "44/48T"? Is there anything wrong with 46? What is "Cable Routing: dual-pull type"? And most puzzling, what is "Chain Stay Angle  63-66 / 66-69" and how do I measure mine?
84950
I'm thinking of upgrading my bike, which has a Sora 9-speed system on it (50/34 chainset). The upgrade is for esthetic reasons - i simply like the look of the internal cable routing. That being said, it is not an absolutely essential upgrade, and if it costs too much I will not do it.   My plan is to buy the new Shimano 105 5800 11-speed cassette, shifters and chain. I understand that the 11-speed chain is thinner than a 9-speed. Does this mean that I also have to buy a new crankset to replace my 50/34 Shimano Compact FC-R345 Octalink?
20650
I have a Lappierre Zesty 314  (2012). I'm running XT rear mech, an SLX front mech, my crank is XT, rear cassette is XT and XT chain. I went to the Forest of Dean and after the day was over I snapped my chain! I picked up a SRAM chain for my bike and now when I pedal hard it slips with a big bang. I have new Eastern Havens so my hub is fine. Can you help with any ideas to help me solve this? Shall I get a new rear cassette?
78423
I have acquired an older Pegasus, model unknown. Guessing by the decaying decals it might be something like Atlas. Bike is in poor neglected condition, but I will try to put in on the road to see how it rides and then decide if I dump it or do some more work on it. It came with a Suntour AR II rear derailleur. The frame has simple dropout and bike came with some sort of generic deraillur hanger. The problem is that when I release the quick release the hanger with derailleur comes loose along with the wheel. Below are some pictures. As you can see the derailleur has no clear way of mounting to the frame. The frame does not have any hole that aligns with small the in the hanger. The hanger has on the backside a little edge that aligns it with a dropout as seen on the picture.  Options I considered were:  1. Drilling a hole in the frame and then cut a thread for the bolt. Which thread should I cut in that case to be "universal" or compatible with bolts that are used for that purpose?  2. Puting a bolt through the small hole in the hanger and through the dropout. Use a big washer and a nut on the backside to fix the hanger in a dropout semi permanently. I would then fix wheel axle with quick release as usual. Down side of it is, that the axle would be moved forward in dropout by about 14mm.  3. Try to find a suitable hanger. No luck so far. Through Google I have found a picture of a hanger that might do the job.  What would my best or simplest option to mount that hanger?
29615
I'm selling the rear derailleur off this bike, and someone asked whether it's short or long cage. I assume it's long. Is this correct?
61593
Would someone explain wheel sizes.  If I am not mistaken, the wheels on my Trek 520 touring bike are 700C. There are no markings, and of course, no documentation of any kind. I assume 700 means 700mm, so 700 / 25.4 = 27.56 inches.  If I measure the rim however, its diameter is approximately 25.1 inches.  If I buy Continental tires, the size is 28 inch, but I have to buy 27 inch Bontrager tubes.  To make matters worse, per this link, tires come in sizes of 26, 27, and 28 inch, and size 700.     How can I determine my wheel size, and are these various sizes interchangable. Also, is the 'C' suffix important, and what does it mean?  Of course the tires are marked, but I am under the impression (per the dealers comments) that Continental marks their tires differently than everyone else. Also, the tire markings don't help for ordering a new wheel.   With so many tire sizes available, how can I know if I am using the correct size.  After reading the various answers here, I should explain that my confusion on this matter stemmed from the fact that I used to work as an auto mechanic. In the auto industry, car tires are based on wheel size, 13", 14", 15" etc, and there is no possible way to mount a 15" tire on a 13" rim for example.  So when I saw all these different tire sizes, I assumed they all required a different wheel size, but in fact, there is essentially just one wheel diameter for my type of bike, which they refer to as 700C, which is actually 622mm.   I also initially assumed that the C referred to the wheel's width, but that isn't true either. The C is apparently just antiquated terminology.  So at least in theory, I can mount a 26", 27" 28" or 29" tire on my 700C (622mm) rim. I just need to verify the width of the tire is suitable my wheel width, which is what Sheldon Brown's article explains.  Also, I measured my Continental tires, which are marked as 28 inch. They actually measure 27 inches (fully inflated), which must be why my dealer calls their sizing non standard.