I have a Canon Rebel XS that I bought approx. 5 years ago. Just recently I noticed that I am not getting 3 frames per second anymore. (It was definitely getting 3 before.)   I shoot in the the large JPG format (not RAW) and I use a SanDisk Ultra SDHC 16GB memory card. (The speed does not increase if I shoot in small JPEG.)   I did some tests to see what I was actually getting. In manual, 1/500, f/5.6, auto focus off and continuous shooting mode; I'm shooting about 0.91 frames/second. Not cool.  Any ideas why this might be happening?
121333
Normally I can shoot 9 JPEG's into the buffer. This amount is indicated by the number in the lower right of the viewfinder, next to the focus confirmation light. Now that number says 2. And indeed, if I shoot more than two JPEG frames subsequently, the camera will hang to write to the SD card and then will proceed shooting further. This behaviour is independent of SD card speed, JPEG size or quality, or shooting mode. When I switch to RAW I can shoot 4 frames in a row.  It seems that my camera buffer is partially filled, but I can't find out how to empty it.
110529
I have a Canon 1100D and I started taking pictures in the RAW+JPG mode. For some reason when I open my files on my PC I see 2 files, but both of them are JPG (they even have the same size). What is the problem and where is the RAW file?
123355
I recently bought myself a pack of four YN560 IV's and a YN560-TX for my Canon camera, and apparently I got ahead of myself and didn't realise I should make sure the flashes support HSS.  I tried them out yesterday at home, and even on 1/128 and 1/250s on the camera, they were overexposing here and there. Unfortunately, I don't really have the space to move the flashes much further from my subject, so I was wondering if there is any way to trick them into HSS? I should mention that I also own a Canon 580ex II, which does support HSS. I was thinking I could perhaps use that mounted on the camera to trigger the Yongnuo's, but as far as I can tell that would render the 560-TX useless as the flashes can't be controlled wirelessly when in S1 or S2.  I guess I could buy an ND filter, but as I have lenses with differing sizes, this feels like more of a pain in the ass.  Is there any hack I can pull off here that you guys know of?  Thanks!
56634
I just purchased a brand new Canon Rebel T3i kit from Costco.. I used it for a couple of days, but now when I have the 18-55mm lens attached and the camera on auto-focus, it will not take a picture. Still will take a picture in manual focus. And will take a picture in either focus with the other lens on (55-250mm).  I've been told by a friend that the lens may not be seating right.  Are there any other settings I can check? I am very new to the camera and I probably messed with some settings or accidentally bumped something I shouldn't have.  Or I can take it back to Coscto and exchange it.
83238
When I press the shutter release to focus, a message on the viewfinder displays F--.  Any photos snapped turn out black.   I switched the camera off, took out the battery and memory card and rested it a while, and then it was ok.  But again, after a few days, the error occurs again, and it seems it will keep happening.  What should I do?
48144
About one year ago I bought a Metz 58 AF-2 for my Canon 60D. Because of a lack of free time to experiment with automatic functions, I have used it only in manual mode with other manual flashes, without problem. Those few times I used it in auto-mode (E-TTL 2 w/o HSS)  I noticed some problem but I thought I was incompetent in setting it correctly.  The problem is that when the flash is in mode ETTL 2 or ETTL2 HSS (attached on the camera) the shots, sometimes (apparently randomly) are underexposed.  In my last experiment I've noticed a thing that made me suspect about a real hardware problem. If, on the camera, I set the AV (Aperture priority) mode (e.g. to f3.5)  and the flash is in the mode I just described, with the parabola oriented toward the ceiling, when I half-press the shutter button, the camera sets an exposure time much too long, between 1 and 2 seconds. Instead, I was expecting that, as it has a very powerful flash attached, it could reduce the exposure time to something like 1/300 and increase the output power of the flash.  These extra-long exposure times are set when I lock the ISO on 125. if I set ISO to AUTO, it reduces the exposure time to 1/60, but increases ISO to 1600... In no way does the camera seems to take in account that there is a 58GN flash attached that could improve the shot.  Anyway the camera is aware that there is a good flash attached, as I see it use the flash-focus-beam, and I can control flash parameters by the camera menu. Also the flash fires when I press the shutter button, but photos are underexposed.   Is this behavior normal? How could I solve it?
121731
If I use a shutter speed below 1/30 on my Nikon P100, I get extremely dark images which are completely unusable. If I use the flash, it comes out fairly bright but just not natural.  My camera supports shutter speeds as fast as 1/2000 and as slow as 8 seconds. How do I use them correctly? What should I take into account before shooting, what else do I have to configure or use?
89596
Here's a typical situation during vacations:   I set my Canon 77D on a tripod I change the shooting setting to "timed series" (2-10 shots after a 10-second delay) I go stand in front of the camera Problem: camera uses the initial focus instead of focusing when the actual shot takes place Result: blurry shot of myself with a perfectly sharp background   Is there a setting that forces the camera to re-focus before each timed shot? I've tried switching to AI Servo, but it didn't help. I'm also aware I can use a Bluetooth/IR remote or connect the camera to my phone, but a simple timer is a lot easier and faster.
26069
I am a newbie to the new camera I just bought. It is a Nikon D5200 it has the original lens that came on the camera a 18-55 lens on it. My question is when I turn the lens to the 55 and then push the plus and minus buttons at the bottom of my camera to zoom in it appears to be zooming in and then I take the photo and the picture is not zoomed in at all.    I have a new Canon T3i and was able to take and capture zoomed in photos with the lens that came with the camera (EF-S 18-55mm) as well as a Canon zoom lens EF 75-300mm 1:4-5.6. Now when I zoom in with either lens and take a photo, when I review it, it shows original image before zooming. Is it a defect in the camera or inexperience of the operator?    (Two separate questions from separate users but with the same root cause.)
84248
I'm very new to digital photography, so I still haven't gotten the hang of all this exposure and ISO stuff, etc. I have a Canon EOS T3.   My question is how big of a difference does it make using manual settings rather than auto settings for everything? I've taken some pretty nice photos with all auto settings, and I'm not sure if it could have turned out any better using manual settings. I know that there are some people who have been in the game for years upon years, and to them they can notice the difference between photos taken with manual vs auto settings, but for my situation, do you think it really makes a difference? Is my camera smart enough to determine the best settings for me?  Also, lets say manual settings are better (which I'm sure they are, since they give you greater control). How often are you supposed to adjust your settings? Between every shot, considering they are unique shots? Or does it not matter about the object, but rather the lighting environment? So if I'm in a forest at 2:00 PM on a sunny bright day and I take photos for one hour, should I be constantly adjusting my settings between every unique shot to get the best out of it? Or do I usually just find one setting that works for the environment I'm in?
33059
We all know that shutters wear out and they have a limited number of actuation's.  The question I have is, do sensors wear out too? Do they suffer any kind of damage after each shot?  Should I be concerned about this or is the sensor lifespan way longer than the shutter lifespan?
109181
When I try to take a picture using a slow shutter speed in daylight it is overexposed. How can I change the settings so it isn't overexposed?
80935
Is it possible to flash the firmware of a camera to add features?  I have an older DSLR from Canon.  Over time Canon has introduced features for example 5 photo bracketing instead of 3.  When I look at the newer models, the specs are almost the same.  The only difference being the sensor.  This should not affect things like bracketing and custom focus options.  This leads me to believe that many features are simply software in nature.  I know I can download firmware updates for any camera but switching from one firmware to another via update seems very risky and I doubt the automated software will recognize it.  I have loaded new bios on GPU's to get extra performance.  Is there a way to do this on a camera without bricking it?
122618
Today I own a Digital Rebel XSi and the only EF-S lens I have are those that came in the kit.  I've been reading a lot trying to decide for my next body, but oh boy, what a tough decision!  I'm between the 5D Mark II and the 7D.  Among the type of pictures I plan to take are:   Portraits; Landscape/Nature Pictures at parties and other environments in low light condition.   Should I go 5D Mark II or 7D?  Updated for clarification:  "the only EF-S lens I have are those that came in the kit." does not mean I only have the kit lens. It means my investment in EF-S lenses is limited to those that came in the kit. Besides the kit lens, I do also have a  and a . Neither of which are EF-S lenses.  I also have a .  I have found that under some situations where I can't use the speedlite, I have already maxed out shutter speed, aperture and ISO settings on my XSi. That's the reason for wanting to upgrade to a body that offers better ISO and performance under low light conditions.
63590
This is my very first day of shooting with flash and remote flash. And picture turned out like this: Bottom half of it is black. I have no idea what has caused this and how to prevent it? I just know that after this I shot a few more frames without flash or only with the camera's built-in flash and they were fine so I know the camera is not broken. When I read the photo EXIF info this is what I had: 1/400 sec with f 2.8 and 60mm.  My flash is a manual flash and its power was on 1/32 and zoom on 70mm. No specific reason for these numbers, I was only experimenting. Also I had set the exposure compensation of the camera to -5.00 in the hope that it would make the background darker and the foreground look more 3D because of the flash.
70851
I'm considering purchasing a DSLR for the first time here in the next couple of months. The two "big boys" seem to be Canon and Nikon. I've looked at both companies, and I can't really see significant differences between the two.  Are there any?  (Please don't go into a flame war here -- I'm looking for factual differences between the cameras, not "I enjoy X because of Y...")    Also see   for another important part of the story.
90164
I shoot RAW essentially 100% of the time, and have the in-camera color space setting at AdobeRGB (sRGB is also offered). The raw converter in turn is set to produce sRGB output files. As I understand the process, the general flow is for raw shooting: raw sensor data readout (including A/D conversion), compression, write to a raw file, then in post-processing rather than in-camera apply color space/color temperature/etc; for JPEG shooting: raw sensor data readout, apply color space/color temperature/etc, JPEG compression, write to memory card (in camera).  Hence, when a colleague said that I should leave the camera set to sRGB for best/consistent results despite using the camera's raw format, it didn't really make much sense to me. I have mulled it over for a while now and it still doesn't really make any sense.   seems to support my view of the differences in the data recorded in RAW and JPEG modes, respectively.  I did find , but the answers there seem to focus more on the difference between AdobeRGB and sRGB. My question is, when shooting RAW, does it ever matter (except for the image preview) whether the camera is set to sRGB or AdobeRGB? If it does, then why, and in what situations? Is my understanding of the "raw" format processing chain flawed?  In case it matters, I have a Canon EOS 50D.