I know this may sound strange but it does happen not every time the fridge turns off only some times the tv and fridge are on different circuits should I get a filter of some kind or trash the tv or fridge any suggestion would be a help
122031
I have my computer connected to my TV via HDMI. Every time something electrical happens (fridge turns on, stove sparks, etc), the image on the TV goes black for a second and then comes back on. And before anyone asks, trust me, I checked other options, it is perfectly in sync with the fridge/stove/etc and not some random coincidence  Anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this or how I fix it? Or should I just get a new HDMI cable?  The lights do not flicker or dim when this happens.  Also, if it is on the same circuit, how do I figure that out?  And will connecting the TV to a regular surge protector work, or do I need to put it on a voltage stabilizer?
13163
While searching, i found this page:  but it does not have full explanation. So Please tell full explanation of why this happens?
9096
Is unplugging the power from a PC in standby or in normal mode bad for it?
41733
In my area power outages are a daily routine. And power surges, which occur when the electricity comes back, makes it even worse. To avoid damage of the electronic devices we try to unplug them quickly. However, if we are out of the house, this is not possible.  So, I was thinking of some sort of "automatic switch" which disconnects the device from its power source by opening the circuit when there is a power outage, and which requires human action to turn back ON again.  Is there any simple switch or device that can do this task?
74293
Recently I ordered a Peltier unit online and received it yesterday. Naturally, I was very excited to play with it. When I first turned it on, One side got hot, an another very cold. I had read that I should attach a heat sink to the hot side of the unit. So straight away, I attached a heat sink and a fan to the hot side (The fan is pulling air out).   I also added a heat sink to the cool side. However, both sides started getting very hot. I have tried reversing the polarity, changing the fan to push, and used voltages from 4 to 12. After nothing worked, I removed the heat sink on the cold side, But still, both side remain stubborn  and insist on getting painstakingly hot.   Anyone got Any Ideas as to what's wrong?  Also, If it helps, at 12v the unit is using roughly 2A...
100336
I've experienced some strange noisy sound in my laptop. I can't definitely tell it's from the fan, but I think so because hdd failure sounds are different.   The laptop is Dell latitude e6410, its hard disk and its cooling fan is next to each other so I can't distinguish where the sound comes from.  Here is the sound: , sometimes it runs continuously.  It's not overheating. I've checked the temperature and it's around 50 - 60 celsius. It's maximum degree is around 100, so it is not the cause of heat.  I also tried disassembling the fan but it has two plastic weldings which I can't open. I tried using blower and using a brush to clean out dust but the sound continues.  Is it definitely the fan? then should I replace it or can I try something else?  Thank you in advance!
109852
My computer seems to randomly turn itself on, usually in the middle of the night when I'm asleep. It's in my bedroom so it wakes me up. I'm running Windows 7 and I don't know if it's trying to runs updates but it doesn't seem to be doing anything once it's on. It only seems to do it only when it's in sleep mode rather than completely shut down.
29749
I'd love some advice in repairing a water-damaged laptop.  My girlfriend spilled a glass of water on her Sony Vaio and now it doesn't turn on...at all...dead! What steps should I go through to work out where the problem is and which part(s) I'll need to replace?  I can't seem to find out what has happened by just looking at the circuit boards. I'm new to electronics but could buy relevant volt-meters etc. I'm just looking for a decent trouble-shooting guide.
65011
I noticed my house wasn't getting under 75°F this weekend when I had the thermostat set for 70°F. Since I'd done a lot of drywall sanding inside recently, my first idea was to replace the filthy air filter.    My first indication that the air filter wasn't the root cause was when the return didn't have enough suction to hold the air filter in place while I was replacing it. I went outside to look at the compressor unit and discovered the exposed portion of the refrigerant line running into the house was frozen, but the fan was still running. The evaporator drain line still had a steady stream of water coming out of it. After turning everything off and waiting for the line to thaw, I turned the thermostat back on. Cooler air came out of the vents, but it didn't seem to be blowing with much force, and it wasn't as cool as it should be. I went back outside and discovered the refrigerant line was already frosting up again. At this point it was already dark, so I turned everything back off and slept with the ceiling fan on. :/   Other random notes that may or may not play a factor:   The AC unit had been sitting idle the past 3 days since we had nice weather in the mid-70's last week. I mowed the lawn next to the condenser unit the day I noticed it stopped working. However, I was bagging the grass clippings, so nothing should have been blown into the unit.   Any ideas on the root cause of the icing and lower air flow? I wouldn't think the two would be connected normally. Is it something as simple as low refrigerant levels? I plan on going to look more closely at it after work today. What are some other things I should pay attention to?  UPDATE: I checked the system after work today and decided to give it one more chance after I couldn't find anything wrong with it. After a few hours, it had brought the inside temperature down from 80°F to 75°F. I periodically checked the refrigerant line for freezing, but it never got much colder than 60ish degrees.  I think the root cause was the air filter, and that I didn't allow enough time for the line to thaw last night.  UPDATE 2: Maybe I drew conclusions too soon - I just checked the refrigerant line and discovered frost on it again. The inside temperature was at 72°F while the outside was at 66°F. I think pumping warm air to a cooler outside temperature may have contributed to the icing, but I'm not completely sure. (And if you think I'm crazy for running the AC when I could just open the window, you'd think twice too if you saw how many bugs swarm my porch light and windows every night. Dozens of them somehow find their way past the screens if I open the windows.) I plan on running it again tomorrow during the day and monitoring the refrigerant line temperature every few hours. If it freezes up again, I think I'm going to cave and call a repair guy.  UPDATE 3:  I totally forgot to follow up on this. It froze again, so I called an HVAC repair guy. He checked the system, added refrigerant, and problem solved. I think the bill came out somewhere around $150 for the service call fee and refrigerant costs.
56232
I have a GFI receptacle in my kitchen that feeds four other receptacles.  It tripped the other day and I cannot get it to reset.  All of the other receptables on the circuit are not functioning which is to be expected.  I first thought it was a bad GFI receptacle so I replaced it to no avail.  I then checked power at the electrical panel and all of the breakers for the house appear to be providing power.  The breakers for the GFI receptacles in the bathrooms have test buttons on them and trip when it is pressed, however the kitchen GFI breakers are standard non GFI breakers.  The confusing part is that when I go to the GFI receptacle I am not seeing the 120V power on my meter that I am seeing in the other working receptacles in the house and at the electrical panel.  I checked both sets of wires coming into the receptacle and various combinations of hot and neutral just to be sure I was testing the correct wires.  One pair gives me 3.9V and the other 0.04V.  I have gone through and verified that all of the other GFI receptacles in the house are functioning correctly so I don't think it is a separate GFI feeding this one that is causing the problem.  What would the next steps for testing this problem be?  It was functioning correctly before it tripped so I am assuming that it is not a wiring issue that would require an electrician at this point.  I have a meter and all of the necessary tools to do any of the work I am just not sure where to begin troubleshooting.
60451
My Toshiba laptop turns it's display off when I put my smartphone or my soundbar next to it. If I remove them, the display turns back on. How can I fix this?
52956
I live in an older house and have some outlets in our kitchen that don't make sense to me. We have one outlet that is tied to a dimmer switch on the opposite side of the room. I can detect that the outlet is hot using my voltage detector (when the dimmer switch is all the way on), but it pulses. I get about 6-7 beeps, then it skips one, beeps 6-7 more times, skips, continue. My GFCI tester shows an open hot. The outlet doesn't work.  I'm not very experienced with electrical work but this sounds highly unusual to me. Where should I start with fixing the issue?
86888
Hoping someone can give me some thoughts on what might be going on here so I can be a bit more informed when I call a plumber.  Situation is, we got our water heater replaced a few years back and ever since this has been an issue. It's more noticeable when it's cold outside it seems, but still seems to be a year round problem. Whenever we  use hot water, we basically run out of it within minutes. In order to get an acceptable amount of hot water (enough to take a 10 minute shower), we literally have to prime the water first. By that I mean I have to turn on the hot water, let it run for a couple of minutes, then turn it off and wait 20 minutes. Then when we go to use the hot water again we'll get hot water for a respectable amount of time. Now I am fairly ignorant to all this, but it seems a 71 gallon hot water heater should be capable of holding enough water to not need to be primed like this. I should be able to take a 30 minute shower, let alone 10 without running out. My shower this morning was decently warm for maybe 2 minutes before it was just warm-ish.   So if anyone can give me some ideas on what might be going on I would appreciate it. We've just put up with this for some years assuming perhaps it was some eco friendly thing. Like the system doesn't maintain much hot water in the tank so it's not always running and only heats water up when you start to use it? I hope that isn't the case though and even so, I should be able to get more hot water out of it. Any help?  UPDATE Sorry everyone, I meant to tell you all that the water heater was gas. The pilot light is lit. I don't recall the specific model though I can look that up if people think it will help. I have actually turned up the thermostat on it above the default and when the water heater is putting out hot water, it can be very hot. Too hot. But again, that requires us to prime it before we get any decent amount of hot water out.  UPDATE 2 Looked it up, I believe this is the model info if that helps anyone: State Select: High Output. Model number: GS675XRRS 300
93584
My dad's old TV! When I switch it off after watching and get my hands closer, my hands' hair gets attached to the screen. And they stick for sometimes! Now, I know how a cathode ray oscilloscope works. It is just the clever use of Hall - Effect . But why does my hair get stuck to the screen? What is the cause? Note, I checked this for my LED TV but it didn't work (I couldn't perceive anything) unknowingly. What's the magic in my old TV??
51761
I know this sounds like a silly question and it may be closed before it may get a single answer but there is something strange in my house which beeps infrequently. I tried to troubleshoot the sound but no luck. I thought may be its coming from the living room but there is nothing special in the living room which may make a beep sound.  Can someone point me what should i look for to figure out what is making this sound?
10219
Now that I'm looking into home automation, I'm thinking about automatically cutting off the fridge power from 3am ~ 5am. Given that modern refrigerators are well insulated, it should be able to withstand 2 hours of non powered cooling.  If I proceed with this project, will I see a big reduction in my monthly electrical bill?
53783
My whirlpool side by side refrigerator is not cold and freezer is cold but not making ice?  I have replaced the relay switch on compressor, I have taken the back off inside the freezer and the fan is working, I have taken the damper off and it is working, I have been told if fans are working the control panel is working, I have cleaned the coils (the best I can), the fan is working to cool compressor.  Don't know what else it could be, help! please