I have my Nikon D7500 set to Manual Mode.  I can change the shutter speed and it maintains the setting.  When I change the aperture, the setting is not maintained and varies depending on the zoom of the lens.  How do I stop the aperture from changing when in Manual Mode?
28936
I am new to the photography field, there are few things which I am not able to understand. I am playing around with my Nikon D90 along with its kit lens (18-105mm).  While reading about Depth of preview, the author asks to do some basic exercise to better understand DOF, like this:   set your aperture to smallest number f/2.8, f/3.5, f/4 with 70mm or longer lens.   When I tried to set aperture to f/3.5, and tried to change focal length, my camera is setting aperture automatically in every possible mode (which I know of). It is changing aperture in the following fashion:  1. 18-24 ----&gt; 3.4 to 4 2. 18-35 ----&gt; 4.5 3. 18-50 ----&gt; 5 4. 18-105 ---&gt; 5.6   But if i set my aperture to 5.6 or higher, it does not change when I change the focal length of my camera. I know I am not doing some basic thing right, but I'm still not sure why this is happening. Can some one help me to understand this?
55706
Under what circumstances would you use aperture priority vs. shutter priority and vice-versa?  I typically don’t use shutter priority (ever) and favor aperture priority to try to get a max aperture with the thinking that I’ll get more light and a better low light shot. But after getting almost all my shots being blurry and the help of a couple questions posted here I learned I should use faster shutter speeds to get clear shots.  What my question boils down to is me trying to get a firmer understanding when to use one over the other, and why.  Thanks all.
114998
I know there's lots of talk around here about 'noise' levels in photographs, but what about the actual sound that the shutter makes on an SLR? Is there anyway to silence it a bit, or is it just a reality that we have to deal with?  I currently have a Nikon D90 and find that in quieter settings (like a church) the noise from the shutter can be a bit distracting to people around me (i haven't had anyone mention it, but I'm guessing it's apparent).  Do higher-end models have quieter functioning modes, perhaps?
20355
My girlfriend owns a D5100 and I own a D7000 for which we both share lenses (or try to when appropriate). I own the 18-55 kit lens, a Nikkor 50mm 1.8g (I may consider buying the inexpensive 50mm 1.8d so that we can both have the 50mm at all times) and a cheap Sigma 70-300 4.5-5.6.  As of right now, I do 65% of my shots using the 50mm, including, most of the time, landscape photography. I just adjust the composition by adjusting my position and only use the kit lens when that's not an option. For some time I've been thinking about acquiring a wide angle lens, but after checking up the prices and different models I couldn't make up my mind.  What is it that you look for in a wide angle lens?  To make it easier to explain where my doubts lay, let's say the Nikkor 24mm 2.8D which sells on amazon for 360 pounds / $450.   Do I really need a fast lens for landscape? I mean, 90% of my shooting with a wide lens is going to be architecture or landscape so why would I need a fast lens? Most of my photography (which tends to be street photography and portraits) is taken with the 50mm or the telephoto (which I'm seriously considering upgrading to something not crappy)... are there other usages for wide angle (other than landscape and architecture) that I'm missing? (I mean things you'll do often, not things that you may do but you never end up really doing). How is it different from the kit lens? I can deduce build quality of the kit lens is not going to be great, but it's still a 18mm f3.5 in the wide side, so wider and reasonably fast... is it really worth it to get the Nikkor 24mm? Why?
24758
I have a couple lenses that don't have an internal focusing system, and whenever I want to put them back in my bag, I turn the focus ring to make the lens shorter.  I noticed that when the lens is set to auto focus, the focus ring is harder to move than when it is on manual focus. Can I damage the focusing system by turning the focus ring when the lens is set to auto focus?  I would think that if the lens is off the camera it wouldn't cause any damage. Am I right?
79195
Why does a camera's maximum (allowed) aperture get smaller when you increase its zoom?
99898
I was trying to take some nice pictures of the Toronto city skyline from the shores of Lake Ontario under a full moon night. Now I put my nikon d5200 on a tripod and set f/4 and shutter = 30 sec. I am using 18 mm focal length. But from time to time, it tells me that 'Subject is too Dark' and the shutter won't even press all the way down!  I am in 'M' mode.  The lens keeps rotating clockwise and counterclockwise to try and focus and gives up.  How to get around this? Do I need to experiment with manual focus? The funny thing is I point the camera directly at the bright full moon and still it says 'Subject too Dark'.  Now the funny thing is that when I look at exposure meter in view finder , it shows that the image is over exposed by 3 bars. And I expect this while looking at a full moon for 30 sec with a wide aperture.    How can it be overexposed and still be Too Dark ?
21518
I know digital cameras have ISO options, and that ISO is the camera's sensitivity to light, but if you set  higher ISO then you can get a noisy image. I also know there are two other camera options, shutter speed and aperture.   What is the relationship of between them? Is there any equation, or something like that?  For example, if I set the ISO to 640, then how should I set the shutter speed and aperture?
103802
I have a Canon 7D, and typically shoot everything I do in its single-point autofocus zone select mode, because I usually want fine control over exactly what the camera is focusing on and I often find that its two automatic focus zone select modes don't focus on what I want in focus.  For most of the photography I do, this is fine -- I have enough time that I can compose the shot the way I want, use the joystick on the back to select the right focus point, and take the shot at my leisure.  However, recently I've been doing more event/action photography, and I've been running into issues with this mode of operation.  Too often, I will see a person start to do something interesting, but my autofocus point is not in the right place -- so by the time I get the camera up, adjust the settings, and move the autofocus point, the opportunity to take the shot has passed.  My question is, what autofocus zone selection mode and workflow should I use for this type of photography?  I could use the 5-zone partial-auto mode (which gives me a choice of top, middle, bottom, left, or right, and then the camera chooses the points within my selected region), but I find that the time needed to switch in between that mode and the single-point mode is similarly prohibitive, and I have to hope that the camera chooses the right thing to focus on.
79928
I know there have been a lot of posts on this topic, but I haven't found exactly what I am looking for.   I noticed some dust spots on my sensor for my D750 after I took a picture with some sky in it and then was playing around with "dehaze" in Lightroom. Okay no problem, I have owned the camera for a year probably time to clean the sensor.   So I do a bit of research online and land on the fact that I can do this myself. I also want to learn how so I don't need to spend $50 or $75 each time I need this done. I decide to buy .  What I do is close my aperture down to F22, put my ISO on 100 and then set my shutter speed to 2 seconds or so and take a picture of a well lit white piece of paper.   I then go into Lightroom and jack the dehaze and look for dust spots. I see a ton. Okay, so now let's clean it. I wet the swab with a few drops to get it just saturated on the top of the swab, apply some pressure, wipe left to right, turn it over, wipe right to left and done.   Then I took the same picture and although the dust spots are different, they are still there! What the heck? Okay maybe it just needs a good blow out. I took my  and blow out everything I can inside of there, then I do the same cleaning method as the first time, except this time I start with a dry swab, throw it out, then get a new swab, wet it and clean it again.  I take the picture again... and they are STILL THERE. Okay let's get out the high power flashlight. I wouldn't say I scrubbed it, but I went back and forth with the swab on what seemed to be a stubborn spot (I know, sketchy). Then I clean it again with a normal swab and take another picture.   This went on and on and I have basically ran out of swabs. I still see spots. I used the same swab a few times (I know, also sketchy) because I just couldn't figure out why it wasn't getting clean. I even tried a can of air (although some don't recommend that because they have solvent in them, but I was desperate and some people on youtube did it). That actually seemed to help, but in the end I still have spots.  So obviously a lot of you will tell me to just "take it in! you're going to break your sensor", but I really want to learn how to do this. And now I am just stubborn.  The spots are at the top and bottom of the frame mostly.  Any ideas? I ordered  today, and I was going to try it out very carefully. I also ordered .       EDIT: I tried the gel stick. It did seem to help, but on the second try something else got on the sensor so I am going to wait until tomorrow to get the swabs and then try to do a swab cleaning + the gel stick again... we will see.  EDIT2: Well it looks . I think the gel sticky stick helped but it's still not spotless. I ran over it one more time. I also included a photo above to the people are nervous about cleaning their own sensor. Obviously I can't guarantee you won't screw up, but I ran a swab over this sensor at least 15 times and it still shots great.
86026
In program mode, DSLRs adjust not only the ISO and the shutter speed, but also the aperture.  The aperture has a huge impact in some situations. For example, when shooting a close subject in front of a meaningless background, the aperture must be large so the background is blurred as much as possible; on the other hand, when shooting landscape, nobody wants a ƒ/1.4. How do cameras determine the aperture to set? More precisely:   Are there some general rules applied by most brands? If not, given some camera model as an example, what rules are applied by this camera?
115061
I recently upgraded from a standard compact digital camera to one of the newish "halfway cameras", hoping to get a bit better at taking photographs through having a little more control over the settings.  Trouble is, the camera has so many settings that I'm having difficulty figuring out which to concentrate on learning about!  I think it's best to start with the basic settings, by which I mean those that actually involve something physical in how the photograph is taken, rather than with the vast array of post-processing that the camera seems capable of.  So, my question:     Which settings on my camera are "real"?  Meaning that they have an effect on the information initially read by the sensor, not post-processing.   (I would be surprised if this varied from camera to camera which is why I haven't specified my exact camera.  Also, I'm not asking for an explanation of what the settings do, though a "sound bite" that I can easily remember when I'm out with my camera would be a welcome extra.)  Standard apology: if this question has been asked before, I apologise and would appreciate knowing which question to look for the answers in.  Also, I didn't have a clue what to tag this!
101501
I am getting a new Nikon D5100 (with 18-55mm VR Lens Kit). This is going to be my first DSLR. I wanted to get some tips from you guys on how to maintain it in the long term. I am getting a 52mm UV Protector Filter, as I read that it would do well to keep the lens clean.  Are there any precautions I need to take?  I would also appreciate if someone can suggest some reading material (paperback or online).
74852
I started experimenting with the Custom Functions (C1,C2,C3) on my Canon 7D and I decided a useful one to have may be setting it up for exposure bracketing. So it's a quick switch if I ever need it, as opposed to going through the menu to set it up.  I realize the settings would vastly depend on the situation, but do you have any suggestions for some good all round settings to program in as a starting point?    Examples: 1 stop vs 1 1/3 vs 2 stop brackets / ISO choices / Metering mode / shooting mode and so on.
14397
Hi everyone I'm a newbie, I have a Panasonic FZ72 Bridge Camera and I love to take shots of birds in flight, the problem is the sports mode is too slow and I have no idea what manual settings to use as the other bridge cameras I have had in the past have been fine on the sports setting. I would be very grateful for any help, in layman's terms please. :)
88301
I've been testing out a Nikon 18-200mm F3.5-5.6 against a Nikon 55-300mm F4.5-5.6   I took two pictures of a door knob from an equal distance of about 3 meters away with the same Nikon d7100 DX camera but each with the different lenses both set to the same focal length of 200mm.   To my surprise, the image taken with the 55-300mm lens gave a considerably tighter crop than the one taken with the 18-200.   Is this normal, and if so how is this possible? I was under the impression that the field of view should be the same if both lenses are set to the same focal length. I'm asking this question because I bought the 18-200mm lens second hand and I'm worried there is something wrong with it even though it does appear to be fine.   Here are the example photos. Note the meta data on the images do confirm both were taken at 200mm. I was not using a tripod, so there was probably a slight discrepancy, but I did make sure to sit in the exact same position and leaning back against a wall in the same spot to take the photos. The difference in crop was immediately apparent
49892
My friend has a Tamron 24mm lens on his Nikon D5000 and he says that because of its age and the fact it is manual focus, it is still actually a 24mm on his crop sensored camera. Is this right? If so, which 50mm lenses would still be 50mm on the Nikon d5100?