How do I switch active camera temporarily in the middle of an animation? Thank you for the link, yes that is what I'm trying to do. But I'm not having much success. It seems that when I try to bind a camera to markers it binds that camera to ALL markers not just the marker I've selected. Note, I pressed A in between to clear all selected markers, then selected the marker I wanted by right-clicking on it. What might I be doing wrong?  Mark clint dion (apologies if I've got that wrong but I have to do this on a phone, its very fiddly and the part that had your name disappeared when I pressed  edit) yes, I appreciate what you are saying but I'm still very much a novice and I don't have all the terminology yet. I try to be clear but I don.'t always realise other possible interpretations exist which might cause confusion. Please forgive me for that Best, Gary
36349
I have multiple cameras in a scene. What I want to do is to change which one is active. This way I can view the scene from different angles. How would I do this?
69618
I'm really interested in getting into serious or even professional photography. I've read some articles about fundamental concepts like aperture, exposure, ISO sensitivity, etc., and I want to get the feeling of how changing different setting affects the resulting picture.  My point-and-shot camera has a manual mode but it seems like no matter what kind of settings I select, I always get worse results than if I shoot in auto mode.  Some people claim that manual mode on point-and-shoots is a joke. Should I get a "real camera"?
123775
When I switch to render mode, they show up, and they show when pressing F12, but when clicking the 'Animation' button, nothing shows. If anyone knows how to help, please do.  Edit: I have enabled rendering using the cameras, still nothing.  Edit #2: What the, some how transferring all of the objects from layer 1-2 does the trick. I guess my camera was set up for the second layer even though it was physically in the 1st. Anyone like to explain?  For anyone who's really curious, :  Also, it may seem like having the animation length of 1 frame seem bad, but I've done that for other files and they work fine.
109617
I had to shoot self-portraits today, and it didn't go well. I first tried shooting tethered, but it was so hard to get composition &amp; focus right, that I just did it with a mirror. Which of course introduced a whole new set of problems. Not only is using a strobe with a mirror an extremely dumb idea (and I don't have real continuous lightning, so ended up using an anti-SAD lamp), but my infrared remote has to be pointed at the front panel of the camera. While I managed somehow, the results are far from thrilling.   So I searched a bit and landed at good old DPS, which has an article about self-portraits. This includes following advice:      Shoot tethered; most digital cameras have a mini video if not a HD video out. I borrowed my son’s DVD player (the one he watches movies in the car with) on multiple occasions for the sole purpose of shooting self portraits. This is where the remote comes in great; you can fine tune the composition by watching that little monitor, without having to run back and forth. If you have a newer DSLR with an HD out then you could hook up your laptop or HD monitor.   (source )  This made me wonder. I have a D90, which has both LiveView and a HDMI output. I have shot with it tethered using DarkTable, but I cannot see the image on the monitor the way I would be seeing it on the camera back in LiveView mode. Instead, I can just make some changes with the mouse (and that doesn't work perfectly, as some settings are overridden by the position of the controls on the camera) and then click on a button to shoot, effectively using the wireless mouse as a wireless remote. And then the picture is visible on the big colour-calibrated monitor. This is, of course, much better than shooting camera-only and later noticing that what looked OK on the camera back is not so hot at normal resolutions, but it still isn't enough for very demanding situations like self-portraits.   The quote from DPS, on the other hand, sounds as if it is possible to send a video to the monitor, which I imagine like a kind of LiveView on the monitor. Which would be, of course, perfect. So, is this possible, and if yes, which software supports it? (preferred platform is Linux with Gnome, but if there are Windows options, I want to hear about them too). Or did I just misunderstand the quote and does he mean that he is only tethering the same way as I do, but using a HDMI instead of a USB cable?
4707
I want to animate between perspective and orthographic camera views. How can this be done?  I found where people talk about successfully animating between orthographic and perspective camera views in Unity with code, so fundamentally this must be possible. But I don't know Python, so I wouldn't be able to figure it out manually with code in Blender.
120250
I've got problem with my animation. I've got a sword in my scene, but I somehow animated it so that its handle starts falling down when I play through the timeline, and I don't know how to delete this.    Look at the picture, there's some orange line at timeline bar - that's what I want delete.
80742
On the top of most cameras is a selector knob which will allow you to select different modes. These range depending on the camera, my camera (Nikon D5100) has several choices.   I have been told conflicting things about which mode to use. From my understanding most DSLRs have M (Manual) S (Shutter Priority) A (Aperture Priority) P (Program Mode) and possibly Auto mode.  Some models (specifically entry level) have other modes some of which could be Night, Macro, Landscape, Portrait, etc.   I have been told by one person to use all available modes the camera has to offer as I learn more about photography.  While another person said only use M, S, A, P modes and avoid all the rest while you learn.  Which of the statements is generally more correct?  A few notes: I have every intention and am currently attempting to learn as much as possible about the camera and how to capture great photos but I am a beginner. I shoot in RAW most of the time. And I want to capture the best possible shot with the camera (not have to process it in post extensively to get the best shot).
89729
I recently had to take almost a year long break from photography. Not sure how much I've missed, may be a few new equipment releases or some new technologies. However, I think I am willing and ready to get active in photography again but since I've been inactive for quite a while I am struggling with it. The local communities have all new faces and I don't think at this stage I can restart from zero. I bought a new lens hoping it'll kick me active, but nope!  I know this sounds too stupid, but may be someone out there has been in my shoes and can share his experience with me?
22023
When I go to, for example, a museum I try to take some pictures.  Sometimes the museum staffs forbid me to use a flash. Do you know the reason? I don't think it is related to photo-electric effect, right?
64138
I had the opportunity to use some professional flashes yesterday and I found out that they didn't fire when I was trying to shoot with the camera in Live View mode.  The flashes were two Elinchrom FX400, one wirelessly synchronized with the camera and the other was activated automatically when the first one fired (With a photocell or something).  Using the camera normally fired both flashes at the same time with no issues, but live view mode deactivated both. Why the LV mode is incompatible? Am I missing something?  By the way, I tried this with two cameras, a Canon 1000D and a 550D.
67125
I rendered an animation and then placed it into the video sequence editor to test it, and rendered that as a video.  Now I want to render a second animation (in other words, keep working), but when I press render animation, it's still using the sequence render option? (Rendering it as pngs). I was wondering how to switch between sequence render and animation render properly?
114827
I'm trying to set up multiple cameras for a scene set in a room. Is there a way to link object visibility to a specific camera? Ideally, a wall or ceiling would not render if it were in the way of the specified camera.  I've tried to get around this by keyframing Restrict Rendering, but that gets difficult to keep track of. I've also tried adjusting the clipping plane, but that clips too much and would also need to be keyframed if the camera moves.   Thanks!
66690
My problem is that I have a huge scene with meshes and (let's say) I see this scene for the first time. I do not know it, I want to look around. I can use the controls like MMB  plus look around, ⇧ Shift + RMB  (but scene is too huge for this). Then I select some objects on the hierarchy and press numpad . (but as I said: I do not know the scene and/or the object names can look like all the same as well), what will take me there. I know, I can use the fly camera mode, but that is well... kinda hard to use, for me at least. Is there a better way to move around? Like in a game: WASD + mouse look? (I do not want to move my camera, my goal is to move my editing area to a specific position / angle)
31293
How do I toggle in and out of wireframe mode with my keyboard? Is there a hotkey for this?  I'm a beginner (obviously). I thought I could find this in the "view" menu, but it either doesn't exist or I have horrendous eyesight. Thanks!
6933
Soo, I think I accidentally pressed something and I don't know how to fix that. The thing is that keyframes in the timeline are know hidden behind the numbers    The animation still works, I can add new keyframes, but I cannot select any of them as they're hidden... does anyone know how to get back to default settings?
84248
I'm very new to digital photography, so I still haven't gotten the hang of all this exposure and ISO stuff, etc. I have a Canon EOS T3.   My question is how big of a difference does it make using manual settings rather than auto settings for everything? I've taken some pretty nice photos with all auto settings, and I'm not sure if it could have turned out any better using manual settings. I know that there are some people who have been in the game for years upon years, and to them they can notice the difference between photos taken with manual vs auto settings, but for my situation, do you think it really makes a difference? Is my camera smart enough to determine the best settings for me?  Also, lets say manual settings are better (which I'm sure they are, since they give you greater control). How often are you supposed to adjust your settings? Between every shot, considering they are unique shots? Or does it not matter about the object, but rather the lighting environment? So if I'm in a forest at 2:00 PM on a sunny bright day and I take photos for one hour, should I be constantly adjusting my settings between every unique shot to get the best out of it? Or do I usually just find one setting that works for the environment I'm in?
64170
Is there an off/disable control anywhere? I realize that the INFO button toggles it off, but it comes right back on as soon as you tap the shutter, and that it a problem in low light situations where the LCD keeps blasting me in the eye.