What size wire is required to carry 100 amp service from the meter to the panel?
10424
I am adding an attached garage to my house.  I'm going to be putting in a 100 Amp subpanel which is about 60 feet away and run through the basement joists.    What gauge wire do you recommend for either aluminum and copper?  Also, do you recommend one or the other?
17803
In the circuit the relay is controlled from a manual switch on a 12v bus. I can't understand why you would want to add the extra components of the transistor and diodes to the circuit? ie why are D4, R1, T1, D1 needed? Thinking about cost and component count here.
72187
I posted this question but for some reason I can't get back into my account:    Most things I see with 220V have both hot legs going through the switch or relay, current "returns" through the switch.  Is it against code to wire one leg directly to the equipment and the other leg is switched as opposed to having both legs switched.  It seems useless and a waste of wire to switch both legs.  Basically  vs  (minus the GFCI as I'm not allowed to have that)  As a bonus question.  I assume I need a "motor rated switch" as standard switches can weld due to the high startup current.  Is  one legal\safe?
23062
can I put a double 50 amp pole in a 100 amp box
34261
For making 100 amperes, 50 volts full wave rectifier, how do I calculate the circuit capacitance to avoid the ripple voltage? I mean which size of capacitor should I use?
41014
I am working on a double leaf bascule bridge and installing a PLC I/O rack on the farside. The power transmission between the two piers (nearside and farside) is via a single submarine cable (installed 1987). Unfortunately, the submarine cable is made up of #10 AWG xhhw-2 control wires and no ethernet cables. Would it be possible to use 8 individual #10 AWG wires to make up the "4-pair" cable required for PLC communication? I would like to avoid wireless communication, and modifying existing/installing a new submarine cable is not an option.
12839
Can I use a 3 wire connection (2 hots and 1 grounded neutral) to install a sub panel in a separate structure if I install a separate ground rod to the grounding bus in sub panel?   I have 8/3 w/o ground running from the main panel for an existing 240 connection in a separate shed. I plan on replacing the existing 30 amp double breaker in the main panel with a 50 amp double breaker and I want install a sub panel that would allow me to have a 240 and a 120 outlet running off a 30 amp double breaker and a 20 amp breaker in the sub panel.    If possible and appropriate, I would like to use the existing 3 wire connection (8/3 w/o ground) to make the connection from the main to the a sub panel using the grounded neutral wire to connect to the neutral bus.  I would install a grounding rod and connect the grounding rod to a separate grounding bus in the sub panel.  I anticipate keeping the neutral bus and the grounding bus separate in the sub panel and do not anticipate bonding these two buses.    Will this work or do I need to replace the 3 wire connection (8/3 w/o ground) with a 4 wire connection (8/3 w/ground)?
6250
I Will be installing a subpanel in a detached garage. The subpanel will be 60 amp. The garage is about 30' from the main-panel in-house, and I will of course get an exact length before selecting the proper gauge wiring. I'll be using pvc underground for the wiring. There is already existing wiring going underground from the house to the garage, which will no longer be used. When it comes to grounding this subpanel, should I run a grounding conductor from the main panel to the new sub, or ground the sub to earth?  Reading  answer sounds like I would have to ground the subpanel to the main, primarily because in my situation this is a new install. All other variables I have control over.    If so, I would be running 4 wires from the main panel to the sub, 2 hots, 1 neutral, and 1 ground correct?  Then, at the subpanel, the ground bus bar and the neutral bus bar would not be connected, and the grounding screw removed from the ground bus bar?  Lastly, a GFCI Breaker must be used at the main, right? I believe this is true for any subpanel in a detached building, just want to be sure.
12596
Just what the title states. The house, located in India, uses old-fangled . The typical domestic supply here in this part of the world is 250V AC at 50cps. I am in the middle of replacing the fuses with Miniature Circuit Breakers.   MCB appear to receive the line wire from the top connector, the bottom connector being the protected device/s. Is this universal/standard? Does the protected device connect to the top, or bottom of the MCB?
97362
I am extending a lighting and outlet circuit in a basement. The current setup has the following characteristics   15 amp. circuit breaker (200 amp service) 4 existing lighting fixtures using CFL bulbs (~ 20 W each) 1 existing double duplex outlet box (no regular appliance in use) 14/2 and 14/3 NM cabling (lighting switched, outlets not) throughout less than 100 ft of cabling so far   I plan on adding three lighting fixtures (for LED spots, less than 20W each) and one duplex outlet. I will tap off one of the existing boxes to get both a switched and a constant hot line.  Additional cabling will be less than 30 ft.  Is there any reason I cannot use 12/2 and 12/3 NM cabling for this project (I happen to have some on hand)?    Is there any practical benefit (e.g., less voltage drop in this small section of line)? Is there any disadvantage in doing so, other than higher cost of cabling  and the slightly harder handling of thicker wires?    If the cabling were concealed, would the presence of a 12 gauge wire in an outlet box or fixture convey something to an electrician or future DIYer that is misleading based on the existence of unseen 14 gauge wiring upstream?
74960
Running 12-2 Romex cable from the electrical panel to a J-box located in attic. J-box will connect two GFCI outlets and extend a 14-2 cable to the ceiling light fixture box, where other 14-2 cable will be used for a switch.   Circuit breaker is 20A.  Is that OK? Is it code compliance?
23857
I've got a circuit in the basement carrying a handful of outlets.  This circuit has no ground wire.  I want to add a couple of outlets and want them to be grounded.  I may even want gfci outlets on them in the future.  I have no reasonable way of getting a ground wire to the panel but I do have easy access to another circuit that does have a ground wire.  Is it acceptable to borrow or share a ground wire between circuits?  If not, why not?  Both circuits are 20A with 12 AWG wire.
4703
I have 1:50 wound current transformer and I don't have the datasheet. Could anybody help me to calculate the burden resistor?    Maximum current to be measured: 2A  Max output voltage to ADC: 5V
42895
I bought an old house that has a fuse box. The place has a milk barn that I want to convert to a workshop. Can I run 6/2 wire from the the two 120 volts wires coming from the fuse box?    I want to run it into a 200amp breaker box in the barn. I will be using a 220V dryer and maybe a welder if that is possible.
7111
My house has aluminum wiring, which from what I understand isn't recommended any more. How do I replace a plug or switch since the new unit only takes copper wiring?
60775
I Will be installing a subpanel in a detached garage. The subpanel will be 60 amp. The garage is about 30' from the main-panel in-house, and I will of course get an exact length before selecting the proper gauge wiring. I'll be using pvc underground for the wiring. There is already existing wiring going underground from the house to the garage, which will no longer be used.  I trying to determine what gauge and type of wiring I need. I'm not sure if this is a duplicate of  question or not, but I'm looking for information what gauge wiring I need. The chart linked to in one answer suggests looking at ambient temp ratings. I'm slightly out of my element there as all of the amp/gauge charts I've looked at in the past only considered length of conductor, because when length increases so does resistance, which means there's a drop in voltage. Since that was for DC circuits mostly I have to ask why is AC different?   I suppose I'm mainly asking how to figure this information out and not just gimmie the information. Teach someone to fish, so to speak.  From researching it appears I should use individual THWN conductors, or an x-x-x-x cable, x being the gauge, I don't know the benefits or drawbacks to either one. Same goes for copper and aluminum.
73793
I have a shed in my backyard about 200ft from the house. I would like to run electrical to the shed to install 2 or 3 power outlets, and two LED lights for the inside.  Currently from the house to about 50ft from the house there is an exterior power outlet on a pole (no light on the pole, just the outlet). The line from the circuit breaker is completely dedicated to this one outlet the whole way -- currently no forks or splices. It is a 12 gauge UF-B wire run connected to a 20 amp gfci breaker. It is not in conduit and looks about 2 to 2.5 feet deep.  I am wondering if I can continue the line from the power outlet 50ft from the house on more 12 gauge UF-B for another 150ft to the shed -- which will have 2 or 3 power outlets and two LED lights for the inside. Or I am wondering if it would be required for me to have a dedicated line and a subpanel in the shed -- and maybe heavier wire.  Thanks!