I am going to replace my bent hub on my MTB. The hub is Novatec D042SB and the rim which I am going to order is Sun Ringle Inferno 25 29er. Since my hub is not so popular there are not any default dimensions available in online spoke calculator databases. I cannot take apart all the stuff on the wheel for precise measurements and that's why I have to ask for your help. I have used several calculators and all of them gave me different result ranging from 290mm to 294mm.   Here are the dimensions of my hub in Novatec's official website.  Flange to Flange 58.4mm  Flange Diameter 58mm  Over Locknut 135mm  Offset of centers 6.8 mm  Rim ERD 602 mm  If anyone has experience with building a wheel, please help me to determine the exact length of the spoke  Thanks in advance
19572
I have lots of bikes and lots of interesting wheel sizes, I would like to know how to calculate the right spoke lengths for a wheel.  I appreciate that there are probably rather a lot of variables but this is something that has been an issue for me from time to time so being able to work out the right spoke length for an arbitrary wheel (did I mention that I have half a dozen or more different wheel sizes in the garage?) would be useful.  To be clear - I don't want a calculator, I want to know what the sums are.
29909
My used bike came with different front and rear tires. It appears to have some kind of Kenda commuter tire in the front, and Continental Country Ride in the rear. They are both the same size (700x28).  Is this perfectly acceptable or should a bike always have matching models (and/or size)?  My main concerns from mismatching tires:   Grip thresholds may be inconsistent Ride comfort?  Wear rates (but rears seem to wear faster anyway)
67865
My tire wall tells me that my tires are 26 x 1.95. I bought a 26 x 1.75-2.15 inner tube. When I change the inner tube, though, the tube is bigger than the wheel by two inches. How do I determine inner tube size? Or am I just doing this wrong?
22417
i am currently workin on the Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig that is designed by tanner W at Instructables  which bottom bracket assemblies should i work out: The question is - which bottom bracket-assembly-types would you suggest!?which axles and dummy shells should i drill see  well at the moment i am musing bout the extras and features  what should i add which features should i add eg some dummy axles for the bottom bracket assembly - what do you suggest!?  i think as long as we can get a standard English bb in both 68 and 73, we should be fine. afaik: It's hard to deal with the press fit sizes because AFAIK nobody is selling facing/reaming tools for them. As far as i know: Paragon has a ton of bb shells available, so we could match what they sell. but I think the two most standard sizes will probably do for now. the tanner w fixture is adjustable for width, so we only need one set of blocks see here:  and also see the bottom bracket shells:  well at the moment i am musing bout the extras - what should i add ?
102878
Earlier this month I had a issue with a broken axle.  It was the original that was sold with the bike and lasted around 5,000 miles.  I went to my LBS and bought a new axle (unbranded, labeled, etc, paid $13, came with cones, spacers, and hardware).  I did the install myself and had everything adjusted nicely.  The next time I rode it was on my commute to work, but I didn't get 4 miles into it when I found that I bent the axle.    I took the wheel to the shop but they wouldn't do anything about it since I didn't have them do the work.  However, I figured this was a fluke and asked them for a new axle and to true the wheel.  Once again I did the install of the axle and only got 15 miles out of it this time before bending it.  Before I got home I felt the wheel get stiff, but it stayed true.  The question is what will be a cause of bending 2 axles in 20 miles?    I think the guy at the shop said it was a cro-moly axle (while talking to another person today at the shop, these may not be), and he couldn't believe that I bent it.  If so, where would such an axle fall in the quality hierarchy?  Or is my hub toast?  While the wheel was being repaired, I swapped to a new original wheel for about 2 weeks.  I have not had any issues with it, but I wanted to keep it as new as possible.   Reading other questions I saw a comment that said not to use a hub where the bearing was catching.  I did have one in this wheel but I figured since it is a cheap wheel I would just burn it up and move on to a better one.  Besides, it has lasted 5k miles without issue to this point.  The bike in question is a 2008 Schwinn High Timber with Joytech freewheel hubs.  I do use a trailer with this bike using a Burley axle hitch.  While I had the hitch installed on both axles I bent, I did not have either trailer hooked up to them.  Something I would like to note is that when I removed the first bent axle (axle #2) that the cones on it had a wavy bearing track.  I didn't think too much of it, and I put them on axle #3.  Only having a few miles on them shouldn't have made a difference?
62042
Really struggling with these brakes now. Just installed new pads, but pistons won't separate far enough to put the wheels back in. Tried pushing the piston in using a  plastic tyre remover, but no joy. It seems like one pad (hub side in both cases, front and back) is a lot further out that the other, which suggests sticky pads.  I'm also a bit confused as the pistons move (both pistons on both brakes) as soon as the actuator arm starts moving. I thought they were supposed to have a delay as a valve closed, so I'm wondering if they're actually properly set up at all. I can't see where the bleed valve is though, and if it's opening.  Any advice gratefully received!  Edit; I think there's three problems I'm working on here; i.) The pads are asymmetric; the outside pads are barely showing, the inside ones are protruding by about 2-3mm. ii.) Even with the cable detached and the arms locked out I can't push the protruding pad in. It moves slightly under extreme force, but moves back after the force is removed. iii.) The pads move as soon as the brake lever moves, which I don't think is right.  I'm going to try and clean the edges of the pistons I can get to, as following this you tube video                                and see if that helps at all, will report back.
116367
It's getting hard to find any selection for my old Avanti 12 speed. it currently uses 27 x 1.25 inch tires. Can I put 700c tires without needing to buy new rims?
38651
I have a 2013 Shimano XT rear derailleur. It is part of a 2x10 drivetrain. How can I find out if it is a medium or a long cage one? The picture below shows the derailleur.
96931
In a question earlier today () the Op asserts that they would need to change their hub, if they wanted to go from a 10- to 11- speed cassette.  I'm not very clued up on 11-speed systems, was wondering why this is the case? And, presumably, when they say "hub", they mean just the freehub body?    Or do they mean something else/more?
21195
I tried getting a good measurement with my caliper, but the flexibility of the tire doesn't help much. Let's say I have a 26&quot;x2.125&quot; tire. I know this fits on an ISO 559mm bead seat diameter rim, and 26&quot; = 660.4mm. 26&quot;:  The OD of the tire including the tread? The OD of the tire excluding the tread? When aired up or deflated? Means it fits a 559mm ISO BSD None of the above?  2.125&quot;:  Width of tread? Width of sidewall? Inflated or deflated?  Essentially, I'm converting the tire sizes to &quot;height off rim in mm&quot; and drawing them with a wheel in a web application, so I need to know how &quot;tire size&quot; translates to this measurement. I'm somewhat assuming that the fractional sizes can be converted to the same measurement, but I'm aware that they have certain differences - so any help there would be of value as well.  has been helpful, but still leaves me with the questions above.
42582
I would like to get a Surly Cross-Check but the local bike shop doesn't stock them. They have suggested a 56cm, but I am concerned about the top tube length (I am more legs than torso). Are there proven ways to figure out whether a bike fits other than riding it?
85714
So I'm taking the time during the holidays to overhaul my commuter bike. The whole drivetrain was full of old oil, road salt and grime so I decided to take the whole thing apart starting with the back wheel. Once I got it off, I ended up with half of the rear axle in my hand and a bunch of ball bearings on the floor (I found them all eventually).   The bike has been in use for about 18 months, and there were no rust and plenty of lube inside the hub so I don't really think it's natural wear.  What could have caused the axle to break? My theory is that they pulled the nuts too tight when they built the bike.  More importantly, is this a "user serviceable part" or do I need to get it repaired/replace the wheel? Seems to me getting the ball bearings to stay in place while I insert the axle would be quite challenging.
110342
I went to a bike shop for new tires. I did not know which tires fit on my bike, so I just showed them my bike.  When I took a look at the new tires, there was a label at the side, which says:     40-622 (700x38C-28x1 5/8 x 1 1/2)   What do all these numbers mean? I am asking for two reasons:   I would like to find the right tires for my bike in the future myself When buying another bike, I would like to buy one where I can use this tires as well
58337
On two occasions (same wheel, loosened everything off and re-did the whole thing after the first time) as I've applied a final half turn to tighten the spokes round the wheel it's gone from being pretty laterally true (within about 0.5 mm) to badly out of true (probably a couple of mm or more out).  The simplest explanation would be that I've managed to mess up by missing spokes/over under-tightening some of them, but I'm fairly sure that's not the case.  What else could cause this?  This is a rear wheel with a fair amount of dish. I'm worried that I might be over-tightening. On both occasions I decided to do a final half turn as the non drive side seemed a little loose, but I was concerned the drive side might be over tight. Could this cause a sudden change in trueness?  I've got the wheel back to a reasonable state, but I'm no longer sure I have even tension in the spokes.
123620
I've recently got a new bike with a . This comes with deep-drop calliper brakes (Shimano R451 Dual Pivot). The first time out I bumped one of the brakes and it twisted around the single attachment bolt and rubbed on the rim.  I managed to easily twist it back by hand and carry on, however I thought the bolt probably needs tightening. The question is: How tight can it be?  As the fork is part carbon I've so far only dared to take it up to 4Nm, but it still seems possible to twist the whole calliper around with a bump of the hand. Maybe that's normal? Perhaps it's easier to bump around because of the longer deep-drop lever. Should I be aiming to get it really secure?    I'm not sure whether the brake mount in the fork is all carbon, or some of it is alloy underneath, but either way I'd like to know what a sensible torque is. As far as I can see from the  there is no such specification. How can I find this out?
14860
Some years ago, I picked up a Cannondale R3000 and moved all the components to my current bike as an exercise in bike building, never repeated (in fairness, the Cannondale fit me a little better but my beautiful 1998 Klein has such a sweet, sweet paint job...). I've been putting the frame on Craigslist off and on for a few years, but no one seems to want to pay what I'm asking. Regardless, my current MTB is an all-mountain beast that I bought before I knew my riding style, and I'm thinking of picking up a more cross-country steed.  Times being tight and all, is there anything preventing me from building out the Cannondale road frame as a mountain bike? Obvious [potential] answers (e.g., tire clearance) are good, more involved ones (e.g., frame robustness) are too. I'm trying to get a picture of what might lie ahead in this venture.
58819
I am in the process of overhauling my old Motobécane racing bike and I'd like to replace the freewheel, if reasonable. However, there is no indication of who made it (the bike shop couldn't help) and I've never seen a hub like this online.  The Freewheel has a lock ring with splines on the outside and I'm wondering which tool to use to screw it tight on the hub.