what does square waves in an ocean mean?
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A cross sea (also referred to as a squared sea or square waves) is a sea state of wind-generated ocean waves that form nonparallel wave systems. ... This may occur when water waves from one weather system continue despite a shift in wind. Waves generated by the new wind run at an angle to the old.
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Well, the big waves are not always there, they depend on the storms on the high seas that bring the big swells. The Nazaré big waves frequency it's very different from the Niagara Falls (e.g.), another spectacular place to observe Nature but where it can be observed daily for much of the year.
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Wind blowing across water transfers energy to that water. Energy creates tiny ripples which make an uneven surface for wind to catch and create larger waves. The waves travel across the ocean out of the area where the wind is blowing.
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Which statement describes a surface wave? A surface wave is a wave that moves along the interface of two different materials, like air and water.
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The overall look of square waves is impressive but, in fact, they're extremely dangerous, even in small swell conditions. If you see square waves in the ocean, get out of the water as soon as possible. Why? Because the phenomenon is usually associated with strong and powerful rip tides.
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Although tsunamis usually have small amplitudes (on the order of 1 m), the volume of the water that gets displaced and the speeds reached by these waves allow them to carry enough energy to wipe out towns and cities. A water wave is a combination of both transverse and longitudinal waves.
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Waves provide about half the energy to do work at the coast. Ocean waves are generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface. The stronger the wind, the longer it blows and the longer the fetch, or stretch of ocean over which it blows, the larger the waves (Figure 1).
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Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur at the surface of an ocean. They usually result from distant winds or geologic effects and may travel thousands of miles before striking land. They range in size from small ripples to huge tsunamis.
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What's the difference between waves, seas and swell? Waves are generated by wind moving over water; they indicate the speed of the wind in that area. Swell are waves (usually with smooth tops) that have moved beyond the area where they were generated.
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Streamlike movements of water in the ocean are called currents. ... These currents are caused by the terrain of the ocean floor, the topography of the coast, and the rotation of the Earth on its axis. Currents that move at or near the surface of the ocean are called surface currents.
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There actually are simple... Given the huge area of ocean (140 million square miles) and that ocean waves have wavelengths in the order of 30 feet and upwards, that means in any given square mile there will be around 176 waves, across the ocean, around 25 BILLION waves at any particular time.
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Like rolling ocean waves, Rayleigh waves wave move both vertically and horizontally in a vertical plane pointed in the direction in which the waves are travelling. Surface waves travel more slowly than body waves (P and S); and of the two surface waves, Love waves generally travel faster than Rayleigh waves.
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What's the difference between Swell, Waves & Seas? Seas are created when the wind blows on the surface of the water, creating movement. ... Generally, "Swell" refers to open ocean waves, "Waves" are what people want to go stick their surfboard on. Seas can sit "on top" of a swell, and ruin a surfers day out.
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In physics, a surface wave is a mechanical wave that propagates along the interface between differing media. A common example is gravity waves along the surface of liquids, such as ocean waves. ... Elastic surface waves can travel along the surface of solids, such as Rayleigh or Love waves.
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Horizontal, streamlike movements of water that occur at or near the surface of the ocean are called surface currents.
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6 Answers. Actually the ripples are not circular at all. See photo below. For example, a long stick will generate a straight water front on from its sides and circular waves from its edges.
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squared; squaring. Definition of square (Entry 3 of 4) transitive verb. 1a : to make square or rectangular square a building stone. b : to test for deviation from a right angle, straight line, or plane surface.