I have a range hood fan vented into my chimney. Can i install this fan into the hole in the chimney and eliminate the range hood?
1635254
only if there is nothing else vented into the chimney if thereis a furnace or fireplace venting no the updraft will cause carbon monoxide to filter in
1635255
we got this because of the size, it was all we could fit. we would have purchased something stronger if we could have. it was a last minute remodel change in our kitchen and due to timing just got what we could. it works ok, we have a small kitchen (12 x 10) its not the best solution.
1157033
I should really check the "I don't know" box, but a few considerations come to mind. (1) this is a powerful and reasonably noisy fan...ones built for the purpose of kitchen venting might be quieter. (2) you're dealing with a lot of grease and crud if you're over anything that produces smoke (such as an indoor bbq) and I doubt if this is built to handle that, (3) I should think that a hood arrangement built for the purpose might be just as cheap as a built-to-order stainless hood and duct work ( you would, of course, want stainless); (3) this is meant to evacuate an entire attic -- you could create quite a (detrimental) draft ducting it down to a single hood and/or overload the motor with restrictive duct work. But I don't see why it wouldn't work given the proper analysis and engineering. It is an exhaust fan, after all. If you're exhausting an entire (kitchen) room, I should think that the only things you need to worry about are the noise and potentially restrictive/overloading/damaging duct work.
866503
I don't think you need one. We have 9 ft ceilings and set it at the highest adjustment to allow for a more comfortable work area and better looking island. The exhaust is perfectly adequate for the bigger gap between stove and hood. . Should be fine to set at the lower point for 10 ft ceilings.
1973852
Dontt know for sure, but I did consider doing the same thing on my range. It would need a frame, or at least my range's filter needs one or it won't stay in place. If you can insert a piece into the current frame or find an alternative way to hold it up, I don't see why it wouldn't work. You would get about 20 or 25 pieces the size of a range hood filter out of the one cut-to-fit filter.
2099652
I would say the dimensions of the fan frame set the minimum size needed for the air flow exit. You might be able to utilize a slightly smaller venting exit in you attic; be sure and check first for mounting options. My gable vent area was a little bigger than the fan, so I built a frame around the inside attic vent with 2x4s and flush mounted the fan. I ensured no air would escape back into the attic and all air pushed outside. I'd make sure there isn't to much resistance the fan has to push against in order to drive the hot air out (I.e. bug grills, outside vent vent slats, etc). Mine has been running like a champ for a year now and does make a positive difference. I would say the dimensions of the fan frame set the minimum size needed for the air flow exit. You might be able to utilize a slightly smaller venting exit in you attic; be sure and check first for mounting options. My gable vent area was a little bigger than the fan, so I built a frame around the inside attic vent with 2x4s and flush mounted the fan. I ensured no air would escape back into the attic and all air pushed outside. I'd make sure there isn't to much resistance the fan has to push against in order to drive the hot air out (I.e. bug grills, outside vent vent slats, etc). Mine has... » Read More I would say the dimensions of the fan frame set the minimum size needed for the air flow exit. You might be able to utilize a slightly smaller venting exit in you attic; be sure and check first for mounting options. My gable vent area was a little bigger than the fan, so I built a frame around the inside attic vent with 2x4s and flush mounted the fan. I ensured no air would escape back into the attic and all air pushed outside. I'd make sure there isn't to much resistance the fan has to push against in order to drive the hot air out (I.e. bug grills, outside vent vent slats, etc). Mine has been running like a champ for a year now and does make a positive difference. « Show Less
1716785
Hello Arnie, Unfortunately we only have the exhaust vent coming out of the top and not out of the back of any of our models. Thank you, Range Hood Direct Buy
401952
You will most definitely need a vent. I don't know if or how well a pop-up vent will work. I purchased an overhead hood and we remodeled the cabinet above the stove to make room for the hood. Good luck.
1816706
Is it possible to reverse the fan? - I'm not an electronics expert but it might be possible. The only reason I can see that you would want to do this is to pull air "into" the existing exhaust and out the current "intake" making it pull hot air in from within a smaller area. There might be better products to do this.Slowing it down shouldn't take much more than putting in a resistor or two. But, again, I'm not an electronics expert, so that would take some research on how to accomplish this.
1564477
yes, the hood has to be removed and this microwave goes in its place. Uses the hoods ducting to blow to the outside, but uses its own mounting system.
2151323
I don't think you will hurt anything by trying it. The thermopile and fan assembly are removable and store inside the combustion chamber. I see no reason why you could not put a hole the size of the post (less than 1/2 inch) in your chimney pipe and foil tape a seal around it. I'm not sure how much energy will be produced from the exhaust gasses. When used in the stove the Thermopile is directly in the combustion chamber the gases may not be hot enough to produce a charge. But if you are wrong pop rivet some sheet metal over the hole and seal it with heat resistant caulk.
1218324
You can definitley fit it... Hard to say what the minimum would be but as long as you're willing to alter the chimney height accordingly (Just cut it), the base of the exhaust hood would fit just fine - Looks great installed. Best of luck!
431940
I also live in the NE (MA). Although the louvers close by themselves, they are not a good seal against warm air (air that you just paid to heat) escaping. If you have the fan at a high spot in the house, the pressure will be for the air to force its way out throught this loosely sealed, and un-insulated opening. It is unlikely that cold air will come down, but you will lose significant heat through this opening. The cold air will be drawn in elsewhere in your house to replace the air that you are losing here. So, with that said, here is what I did: I built a plywood box lined with foam insulation. The open bottom rim is lined with weatherstripping. It is sized to be bigger (L X W) and a bit taller than the fan assembly. It simply sits over the fan assembly in the attic during the heating season. Also, I made a "cap" of plywood, thin insulation, and weatherstripping that is held against the louvers on the living side of the fan assembly by straps that go around the fan support struts (they pass through, and partially hold open the louvers). Thus, the fan is sealed from both sides, and this prevents any warm air escape through the whole house fan. The bottom line here is that the real issue is to eliminate, as much as possible, any air that you have just paid to heat from passing through this loosely sealed opening in the most heat-loss-vulnerable part of your house. I don't know how this help forum works, but if there is a way, I can send you pics of what I have done if what I have given you is not clear.
1111860
You can have a charcoal filter installed in the fan (I think you have to order it separately, but I would double check on that). I have the charcoal filter in mine but it does very little in terms of neutralizing cooking odors in the kitchen (and does nothing for smoke). My old range had a hood that vented the air outside and the fan on this microwave does not even come close in quality to a vented hood.
969186
No, you will be required to run and connect the electrical wiring and duct from above. Also, it is much easier to install the unit with joist brackets or direct joist attachment (for close joists) when working from above. This unit uses a 4" duct, whereas most existing duct is 3-1/2"...if this is a replacement. Most states, by code, require that an exhaust fan must be installed with a duct to the outside of the home. The unit can be covered with standard attic insulation, as it generates virtually no heat (no light).
1736553
I would select the range vent hood size based on the space present in the cabinet over the range. So if the space available for mounting is made for 36" then yes you should use a 36" hood.
649136
If you are roasting it correctly you would have no smoke. But using an exhaust fan above your stove is a wise move. I have never had any smoke come out of my machine. But the heat from it does have my smoke detector go off.
1814705
The quick answer is I don't know. However, I would note there is apparently a small tray at the bottom (others have mentioned this). The basic problem I see with not installing the exhaust is where is the hot air supposed to go? You can, I have, have the pipe go out a homemade baffle. I did this since the one that came did not work in my window. Hope that helps.