Is it easy to mill and use for a router insert? Will hold the weight without bowing?
1642675
Yes it machines very easy with a 2 flute end mill or router bit. Leaves a nice machines surface and taps easily so you can use set acres to level. I use the 1/4 inch thick stuff for router zero clearance inserts and never had a problem with them.
1642676
I used it for the same thing but I have not had a chance to turn it on. I needed to convert a used router table to hold my Bosch router. It was pretty easy to cut and drill (did stink a bit thought). Not sure about the bowing though since I have not had a chance to turn it on yet but it seems pretty solid.
1642677
I used mine for a zero clearance insert in my Ryobi BT3000, but I had to do some milling to make it fit. Milling was easy, but I can´t say about holding the weight. For my router table I have an aluminum base.Best regards / Alex
1642678
It is strong and will now bow for most tool applications. It is tough stuff, so milling is challenging. Templates are helpful.
1642679
I have not machined it but would think it would machine well with a carbide cutter. I think it would be plenty strong to support the weight of a 2 1/4 hp router.
369665
I use mine for a wireless router. I think it will handle some more weight, but the drywall anchors that come with it are garbage. The hole was too big for the anchor to expand with the provided screws. A quick trip to Lowes for some better anchors fixed that issue.
1623200
I use the Bosch RA1181 bench top table (review here http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=cm_cr-mr-title). It takes some work to make it right, but for the price I like it. The router plate is already drilled for mounting and has a hole for above table depth adj, which I find very helpful. The adj works well, but you will have to reach under the table to change the range of bit height adjustment. Above the table height works once you get the base "in the range". I use offset wrenches (review here http://www.amazon.com/Offset-Wrench-Triton-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B0040BLFZE/ref=cm_cr-mr-title) for bit changes - this is for the nut, I have another for the shaft - that work far better than the straight wrenches that came with my 1617EVS router, well worth the $.
1067658
Generally, a router for a router table has more horsepower than this router. This is a light-weight router. You, certainly, could put this into a router table; however, it may not be able to handle demanding work -- it will not be able to remove a lot of material with each pass -- especially, with hard woods [oak, etc.] (without destroying the motor). It all depends on what you intend to use if for.
1325583
No router tables don't use this. What do u need it 4. If its to hold down wood while routing I use feather boards. If using it to mark a position to start/stop routing u can use a stop or mark the wood. I want to help so ask away......what is ur intended use.
1974081
I don't believe you can angle the stock without a wedge, and then there might be issues with holding it stable. You could keep the stock at 90 degrees, flip it on edge and use a 45 degree router bit, as long as the wood is not wider (taller when on edge) than the height of the bit.
379671
The table extension on the right side is a plastic laminate, and I can't tell if you can easily cut the holes you need for the router. I wouldn't recommend it. There are four clearance holes on the left side of the top casting. You could easily design a router table mounting scheme using these holes. I would want it to be easily removable because otherwise it would interfer with sawing larger pieces.
1581700
It comes with very simple assembly instructions on the box. But there are no instructions if you have to measure and drill holes to match the base of your router.
385791
It depends on your preferences, which may be influenced in part by your table saw. A stacked dado is nearly infinitely adjustable. I also happen to like the large cast iron surface and 500# of stability my table saw provides. A smaller saw might not be so user friendly to use. I do use a router for dados on occasion, but generally prefer the TS. A router is a super handy tool to have, so is recommended for nearly any shop....for the cost of a straight bit, why not add the capability of doing dados with the router too? Having choices is generally a nice option.
605162
Jim G, I'm probably not the best to ask because I've come to conclude that all router tables are very difficult because of the inaccessibility of the router bit for changes. (Same with table saws). If I were hooked to the router table as a main tool, I would invest in those that give you easier access. You did not ask about this but the Kreg fence is not accurate enough for them to boast about the ease of moving and adjusting the fence.
1196110
I work very carefully and deliberately, and I've still nicked the templates a few times. You really do need to pay close attention. I'll usually squat down as I set my router down onto the template to make sure I'm inside it, and when done, I'm careful to lift the router straight up and away. Don't worry about speedy production. You're already so much faster with this than chopping hinge mortises by hand.
1854668
Yes. The fixed base has a micrometer adjustment, which is a vernier type adjustment knob that can be adjusted in readable increments of 1/64". When mounted under a router table the adjustment knob can be accessed and turned with a adjustment key (an allen wrench screw, wrench with handle included) through a hole in the table. Your particular table most probably won't have the hole pre-drilled, so you will have to drill the hole yourself, which shouldn't be a big deal. Personally, I don't use the above table adjustment, because I want to be able to read the depth graduations on the dial as I make height adjustments. When I mount my router onto the table using it's base I always position the adjustment dial toward the front so that I can read the adjustments as I make them. I saw the other answer to your question where the author mentioned that a router used in a table should be at least 3HP. I disagree with this comment unless you are doing professional work and are using the router continuously. I've have gotten consistently good results while using this router at less than full speed as designated for rail and stile bit sets that I use. If you would be cutting into a hard wood like oak, you may not want to try to make a full depth cut on the first pass. I prefer to may multiple cuts through the depth of the cut with a final one removing no more than 10-15% of the total material being removed. This ensures that by taking a small cut as the last cut that you minimize bit chatter, hang-up and breakout, and that your results are smooth and consistent.
2069349
Any large router will work. The smaller ones are too light for the heavy work this system can do. Also, you want to be able to use both 1/4" and 1/2" bit shafts. One more thing you might want to add is an adjustment from the top. Since the router is located rather deep inside the table it will make adjustments a lot easier.
1003649
Hello,No but you can easily drill your own holes. Just center the base-plate on your router, secure it with tape or clamps, mark where the holes of the router are onto the base, remove and drill holes. Then countersink the bottom side so that the screw heads fall below the surface. Thanks
566083
The phenolic insert comes without mounting holes. You have to drill your own, so if the router is smaller than the size of the insert you should be fine. It does state fits any router.
2125400
The short answer is yes. The router plate in this table is not pre-drilled. It comes with a template that makes it very easy to locate and drill the mounting holes. I have never had anyone express difficulty with performing this task.Scott VMTW
1843074
No. I wouldn't recommend it for that. You probably need some sort of rotary tool with a spiral bit. This router is a precise tool used for detail work. I don't think it would take the kind of use you may have in mind.