Is the female 1/4" flare a 45° SAE, 37° JIC, or something else?
1617376
sorry can't answer specifically. I understand the question. The descripton sucks. The female side is the thread standard for R12 systems as far as I understand. The male side are the standard threads for a R134A system. For example the vacuum pump I borrowed was an older model and sold before R134A became standardized. I recently purchased a manifold gage set and the set has fittings for R134A. I think the R134A thread is an ACME thread standard but not positive. I had to use this as an adapter so I could hook up my manifold gage vacuum line to the vacuum pump. Hope this might help you out. sorry can't answer specifically. I understand the question. The descripton sucks. The female side is the thread standard for R12 systems as far as I understand. The male side are the standard threads for a R134A system. For example the vacuum pump I borrowed was an older model and sold before R134A became standardized. I recently purchased a manifold gage set and the set has fittings for R134A. I think the R134A thread is an ACME thread standard but not positive. I had to use this as an adapter so I could hook up my manifold gage vacuum line to the vacuum pump. Hope this might help you out.
1617377
As per my review:Unlike some 1/4" female to 1/2" ACME internal taper male adapters I have, this one has a flat mating surface with o-ring inside, so you don't need to heavily torque it down to ensure a proper seal.
1996125
I looked (quickly) and can't find the manufacturer/distributor for the product. I would make contact with this company :http://www.etoolscity.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q;=nu+flareThey may be able to provide some tech help or direct you to the right web site. Good luck and please let us know the outcome.
622050
It looks like it has 1/4 NPT on the fitting screwing into the female quick connect. I would say 1/4 hose the OD is about 1/2"
80119
i haven't noticed any abnormal flaring. When shooting into the sun there is of course some flaring but nothing I would call excessive. Remember to always use your lens hood and make sure to use the extender ring if you are shooting with a crop sensor. I love this lens.
864396
Not extremely to tall about 4.5".the flare itself is 5" from the wheel well to the top of flare and its snug but not hugging it. if your rust was like anything like mine in the starting stage it will cover. If it's just going quick maybe not, but want I did to make sure the pocket style worked I went to a display case at my local auto store and the have like swatches to look at? I don't know if that helps you out.
713996
Yep, it's hot, so PLEASE BE CAREFUL! The other thing I noticed, and it's a minor issue, is that the spool is not the "standard" size, so flux core that you get from Home Depot or Lowe's won't fit right out of the box, but with some sandpaper and a round file, it's an easy 5 minute fix.
2121388
I just use nylog sealant as a lubricant that is designed for the refrigerant Im using which is almost exclusively R410a. You can get that here on http://amazon.com. Some may disagree with using it but I always put some nylog on the face and back of the flare and the threads when I mate up the joint anyway. The nylog on the back of the flare helps reduce friction when tightening the flare nut. I haven't had any issues with the 14 mini splits I installed this summer/fall using this method.
2191015
Hi,With adaptor iron tip (small) Low is 220F, Mid is 390F & High is 560F With adaptor iron tip (large) Low is 185F, Mid is 340F & High is 480F With adaptor Ball tip Low is 210F, Mid is 400F & High is 580F With adaptor Slim line tip Low is 200F, Mid is 355F & High is 500F With adaptor Hot Knife Low is 185F, Mid is 340F & High is 480F All temps are approximate, but are extremely happy with it, and like anything with heat, you have to take due care, because this little iron packs a mean heat ( scars to prove it). A must have item for the crafter person.Hope this helps
1490431
I haven't tried it past about 45 degrees, but it works great on mine at that angle.
197801
My cord has the following written on it: (UL) E189672 SJT 3X14AWG VW-1 105(degree)C 300V CSA LL213732 SJT 3X14AWG FT-2 105(degree)C 300V DONGU. Not sure what that all means, but it appears to be at least 14 gauge wire capable of handling 300V at 105 degrees Celsius (221 degrees F), however I have heard that the length of the extension cord can affect performance. Therefore, I suggest contacting the manufacturer to see if they offer longer cords, or can suggest where you might be able to get one with the proper specs.
518810
Not sure exactly, but its hotter than any other tool I've had. One quick touch and you'll get a blister.
868866
The standard 90 degree works great! I have thatt exact set up on my '98 TJ. Pick a warm place to put it on. A heat gun on low is a big help. It's an awesome top! The picture doesn't do it justice! Good luck!
1532548
Hi Everett As per WeatherTech for your vehicle application of 2014 F-350 with no fender flares the front part # is 110020 and the rear is 120020 for non dually applications. Truckcustomizers.com 800-497-1780
467493
You'd have to figure out how hot your pots get when the induction field heats them. Silicone rubber has a melting point of around 300°C (572°F.)
848360
If the unit is running and cooling somewhat it could possibly have a refrigerant leak. Popping and snapping could be ice on the coil or line set or a mechanical issue with any number of things. I find a lot of problems with people not doing the flare fittings correctly and so this is a very common issue with leaks.
1686780
Excellent. I have welded 3/8 successfully, but I am a long time experienced welder and know how to make the most of the heat. Welds 1/4" easily. It will blow through the 24 or 22 gauge on highest setting if you're not careful.
184657
I haven't. Flares really shouldn't be a problem as you are only extending the distance from the rear element to the sensor. My setup doesn't exhibit that problem