Will I need to apply PVC cement to this valve's connections, or do they work like 'unions' where I may twist the valve off?
1612477
The two connecting fittings must be glued to the exit pipe ends taking care to get the two sections as straight as possible. Once glued in place, the valve can be removed by unscrewing the two collars away from these pipe fittings and pulling the valve sideways and out. There is a rather flat o-ring that seals the valve itself to this junction, so making sure that the two outside pipes are in a straight line is pretty important for a leak-proof seal. Not sure why they put such a thin o-ring on these fitting ends, a thicker one would allow for more latitude in installing the valve. But once in place, a very quiet valve that eliminates the closing KNOCK of other valves such as Zoeller that I have used.
1612478
It has both, but you will need to apply cement at the ends. Once the ends are cemented the housing can be twisted out (for replacement or cleaning if needed). The ends are typically not tight fitting so you will need to build up a good layer of cement.
1612479
The two connecting fittings must be glued to the exit pipe ends taking care to get the two sections as straight as possible. Once glued in place, the valve can be removed by unscrewing the two collars away from these pipe fittings and pulling the valve sideways and out. There is a rather flat o-ring that seals the valve itself to this junction, so making sure that the two outside pipes are in a straight line is pretty important for a leak-proof seal. Not sure why they put such a thin o-ring on these fitting ends, a thicker one would allow for more latitude in installing the valve. But once in place, a very quiet valve that eliminates the closing KNOCK of other valves such as Zoeller that I have used. The two connecting fittings must be glued to the exit pipe ends taking care to get the two sections as straight as possible. Once glued in place, the valve can be removed by unscrewing the two collars away from these pipe fittings and pulling the valve sideways and out. There is a rather flat o-ring that seals the valve itself to this junction, so making sure that the two outside pipes are in a straight line is pretty important for a leak-proof seal. Not sure why they put such a thin o-ring on these fitting ends, a thicker one would allow for more latitude in installing the valve. But once... » Read More The two connecting fittings must be glued to the exit pipe ends taking care to get the two sections as straight as possible. Once glued in place, the valve can be removed by unscrewing the two collars away from these pipe fittings and pulling the valve sideways and out. There is a rather flat o-ring that seals the valve itself to this junction, so making sure that the two outside pipes are in a straight line is pretty important for a leak-proof seal. Not sure why they put such a thin o-ring on these fitting ends, a thicker one would allow for more latitude in installing the valve. But once in place, a very quiet valve that eliminates the closing KNOCK of other valves such as Zoeller that I have used. « Show Less
965633
No, this is a slip fit valve. It requires the fitting to be cemented. Threaded fitting can, however , be cemented into the openings .
1430029
Not sure. I turnrd on snd off three times to assess pressure and the valve broke off in my hand. I wasn't forcing it either.
2057797
Make sure you flip the valve to the hoses and remove them 1st I havent had any trouble with mine.
1802116
I put one in a Porter Cable. It was easy to install and much easier to use than the valve than came with it. Wish I knew if it fit your unit but I don't.
1090957
I have it on a Primo brand 5 gallon water bottle. It has no threads but I would think the design if the valve would still work since it twists to lock a rubber gasket inside its own collar.
1981536
Not sure. I added the separate piping and check valve and made for a "cleaner" installation. It might depend on the space you have available but if you cut the PVC to accomodate only one check valve and your not happy, you will have to redo everything.
2224646
Either. Just remove the plug from the side you want to hook up. My unit came with a 3-way PVC "T" connector with a spring loaded gasketed cap to use as the utility port. Have to assemble yourself but slips right on. No PVC cement necessary. I'm pretty happy with my unit. Stronger, cleaner, and quieter than the one I replaced.
729798
I think so. I think my valves are Jandy, they look like Jandy's. All the valves and replacement controllers have the 4 mounting machine screws at the same place. You might have to open it up and modify the hard stops in the controller. The instruction manual tells you everything about modifying it.
562757
I suppose you can but first I would spray some W40 or similar on the valve to try to loosen up the moving parts, and wait a few minutes. Have you tried unscrewing the wheel and trying to turn the shaft using pliers?
585019
To glue the end caps on the uprights, any glue that adheres to PVC will suffice. I used epoxy, only because I had it available. Only a small amount is needed. Drill the holes where the two pieces of PVC intersect. Make sure that the drill bit is properly sized for the screws.
1758662
I don't know. Mine came with a couple of attachments that I didn't need and don't use, maybe that was for your special valves. I did not use the part and lost it long ago.
1646268
This is a TWIST ON valve, just as the description notes. This item has a female bayonet connector on one side and a male bayonet connector on the other side, as shown. What you are connecting TO it must have a MALE bayonet connector. This is VERY typical for RV waste pipes (female at connection point, male at waste pipe). I specifically used this device because on GREY/BLACK valves were VERY distant from the actual discharge point (and they leaked a little bit), so I attached this AT the discharge point. Left it on ALL THE TIME - used the discharge point cap as "secondary security" to ensure the system didn't fall off (it never even moved)!! Then, connect the waste pipe and THEN open the valve... Whatever was left upstream of the valve would THEN "move on out", unlike just the cap where you'd need a bucket to collect the mess!! ***EXCELLENT ADDITION*** to your RV Plumbing and I ***HIGHLY RECOMMEND*** it.
1506143
the plastic piece is to turn the valve with a wrench or pliers so you can install the clip that holds it in. When you get it lined up pull the plastic piece out and slide the clip in.
1283917
Yes1) You will need a threaded pvc adapter. The threaded end fit the pump and glue 1 1/2" pvc pipe into the other end 2) Drill a small hole as per instructions on the vertical rise so the pump doesn't airlock3) I would also install a one way valve (check valve) on the vertical rise about $10 or so at Menards..........they are rubber and connected with hose clamps.Should work finethank youBill Sparks
504932
A quick connect snap-on valve is included, but your stub is probably not compatible.
866215
Use a 1/2" npt union or better yet, get the valve kit so you can flush out the unit once in a while. Make sure you put a T&P; valve on the outlet side for safety. it will be part of the valve kit if you purchase it.