What size ball lock connector to use? Any gas leaks? I purchased a couple and am using them with a white ball lock connector I got in a different kit. (I have a black one too, don't think that fits at all.) It does work well for carbonation but there are two caveats.The first is while under pressure there is a soft leaking sound that I didn't get with my custom made fixture. Is everyone else experiencing that or should I try to redo my connections? (Are any gaskets, etc required when hooking this end up?).The second is I had to press really hard to get the female connector on far enough. For a while I thought I had the wrong size (maybe I do). The pin in the middle is also difficult to push down and it seems like it shouldn't need to be (since pressure would also help keep it closed) but maybe that will loosen up over time. What size ball lock connector to use? Any gas leaks? I purchased a couple and am using them with a white ball lock connector I got in a different kit. (I have a black one too, don't think that... » Read More What size ball lock connector to use? Any gas leaks? I purchased a couple and am using them with a white ball lock connector I got in a different kit. (I have a black one too, don't think that fits at all.) It does work well for carbonation but there are two caveats.The first is while under pressure there is a soft leaking sound that I didn't get with my custom made fixture. Is everyone else experiencing that or should I try to redo my connections? (Are any gaskets, etc required when hooking this end up?).The second is I had to press really hard to get the female connector on far enough. For a while I thought I had the wrong size (maybe I do). The pin in the middle is also difficult to push down and it seems like it shouldn't need to be (since pressure would also help keep it closed) but maybe that will loosen up over time. « Show Less
1622364
to put them on - you have to compress the spring in the ball lock to move the bottom plastic part towards the hose connection - that moves the balls to a position that they can get out of the way of the coupling - after you compress the spring - fully insert the coupling - then release the spring - if you do not fully insert the coupling before releasing the spring - you will need to press the coupling together until it locks - the trick is you have to compress the spring to get the coupling inserted
159756
As for the slow leak, the part line from the mold continues under the "O" ring on both sides giving the gas an escape route under the "O" ring. I removed the "O" ring and scraped off the (burr, flashing, part-line or whatever you call it) in the groove and the leak stopped. It is part of the molding process that really should be removed in the manufacturing process. I called and was told that it was too expensive to remove them? So they leak.
1622365
Any comments on the pin being hard to push? I cannot get any CO2 in the bottle.
1622366
Standard Cornelius keg ball valve size. Originally designed to use existing connectors from the drinks machines and adapt them for the home beer brewers to keep their travel sized containers "fresh". It crossed back into the DYI carbonated drinks. Small world. They cost less than $6 not too long ago. I see the prices have tripled from the same place I bought from originally so somebody is getting greedy or they're getting rare... It should mate with no problem when both sides are depressurized. Or if you had stuck the bottle and cap in the freezer to quick chill the water, it may have frozen the valve. If so, take it off and run it under warm water and reinstall. Standard Cornelius keg ball valve size. Originally designed to use existing connectors from the drinks machines and adapt them for the home beer brewers to keep their travel sized containers "fresh". It crossed back into the DYI carbonated drinks. Small world. They cost less than $6 not too long ago. I see the prices have tripled from the same place I bought from originally so somebody is getting greedy or they're getting rare... It should mate with no problem when both sides are depressurized. Or if you had stuck the bottle and cap in the freezer to quick chill the... » Read More Standard Cornelius keg ball valve size. Originally designed to use existing connectors from the drinks machines and adapt them for the home beer brewers to keep their travel sized containers "fresh". It crossed back into the DYI carbonated drinks. Small world. They cost less than $6 not too long ago. I see the prices have tripled from the same place I bought from originally so somebody is getting greedy or they're getting rare... It should mate with no problem when both sides are depressurized. Or if you had stuck the bottle and cap in the freezer to quick chill the water, it may have frozen the valve. If so, take it off and run it under warm water and reinstall. « Show Less
2080572
I am waiting for my can to arrive. But, with the old steel cans of Heat, it was easy to punch a hole in the metal plug and then just pry the plug out. It looked like it was a solid inner cap but it was just a tight press fit. I went to the dollar store and found a household spray bottle for a buck. If the spray trigger and tube fit the can, I will use it. If I have to use the plastic spray bottle I will test it first to make sure the Ballistol does not inadvertently eat away at the bottom of the bottle.
351788
You should return it. If a ball arrives soft there typically is a very slight leak and will always be going flat. They leave the factory hard. Mine took a few weeks toose air so we were stuck with it. To answer your direct question: you need s basketball pin sold at any sports store for $1 then fill it like a tire.
2269043
I was having the same exact problem and i couldnt figure it out. My assistant played with it and I think she put the gasket at the bottom or something and now it works. Unfortunately i didnt fix it, she did i dont know how to help you. I would suggest that you change the order in which the parts are inside the handle and see if you can get it to work.
290777
Jason, I will have to go out in the daylight and get a measurement or imprint off of the tube. I am using the Midwest Brewing basic CO2 set up for it. The gas line is 3/8tha and the beer line is 5/16ths but I cannot remember the length you need to keep the brew from foaming to death.Wheelchair Bob
860481
Sure. But I like others have had problems with the ball lock valves leaking and draining even a large size tank. So if the seal is not good... Better to loose a small CO2 cartage than a full bottle. So, go for it.BTW, I still have not tried it, I needed it on Thanksgiving when my tank leaked dry, but I couldn't find where I have it stashed away.
1876808
the link they put up for the econo-lock carboy bungs set of 2 I already bought those, they work great for my 3 gallon carboy. I also already have 2 jugs same type from organic apple juice. same kind of jugs, but the bungs are barely too big too fit. I need smaller ones for my jugs, so might you or anyone reading this, if they are looking for bungs and airlocks for 1 gallon jugs similar to the one shown. might have to find a rubber plug at a hardware store and drill it out yourself. or use a balloon and take a needle to it first and put a tiny hole to let excess pressure out
1402527
Where is the leak? At the threads, or from the male/female connection? There is a very thin, black "O" ring in the female part that may not be making a good seal when you insert the male end. If the connector is new, and the "O" ring is damaged or missing, you should be able to get a quick replacement from Amazon. Also, if you get a failure later in the life of the connector, the neoprene "O" ring is very common and can be purchased at Lowe's or Home Depot. If the leak is at the threads, you might try using some plumber's teflon tape. Good luck.
1382071
They are out of business. I had one of these and it died the third time I used it so I called the company and they are not taking orders or giving any service....If you still want a gasket I would look on ebay.Good luck
542396
the connectors it is talking about are to connect the hoses and tools to the compressor. you cannot connect a 1/4" hose directly to the compressor, but they make "kits" that have all kinds of adapters for attaching to accessories so that you can inflate all kinds of balls, tires, small swimming pools, etc., etc. If you JUST want to connect a 1/4" hose and nothing else, you need to go to a hardware store and they can find the proper fittings to reduce the line down to 1/4". I tried to use mine for my airbrush but it was way too noisy to use in the house for that. hope this helps? the connectors it is talking about are to connect the hoses and tools to the compressor. you cannot connect a 1/4" hose directly to the compressor, but they make "kits" that have all kinds of adapters for attaching to accessories so that you can inflate all kinds of balls, tires, small swimming pools, etc., etc. If you JUST want to connect a 1/4" hose and nothing else, you need to go to a hardware store and they can find the proper fittings to reduce the line down to 1/4". I tried to use mine for my airbrush but it was way too noisy to use in the house for that.... » Read More the connectors it is talking about are to connect the hoses and tools to the compressor. you cannot connect a 1/4" hose directly to the compressor, but they make "kits" that have all kinds of adapters for attaching to accessories so that you can inflate all kinds of balls, tires, small swimming pools, etc., etc. If you JUST want to connect a 1/4" hose and nothing else, you need to go to a hardware store and they can find the proper fittings to reduce the line down to 1/4". I tried to use mine for my airbrush but it was way too noisy to use in the house for that. hope this helps? « Show Less
1154616
Ned,I'm no mechanic, but I can tell you what happened to mine. Same problem, very hard to start and then to keep running. In a nutshell, I was using regular gasoline which in a few short months caused an air leak by eating into the seal on the carberator plate cover. You might want to check and see if you have any leakage on the bottom of the carb plate. I replaced the gasket and started using Alcohol free gasoline (which the literature says to use) and have had no futher problems. Starts easy, runs great, without the constant priming. BTW - I found that Dealers will not cover any gasoline areas under warranty. Ned,I'm no mechanic, but I can tell you what happened to mine. Same problem, very hard to start and then to keep running. In a nutshell, I was using regular gasoline which in a few short months caused an air leak by eating into the seal on the carberator plate cover. You might want to check and see if you have any leakage on the bottom of the carb plate. I replaced the gasket and started using Alcohol free gasoline (which the literature says to use) and have had no futher problems. Starts easy, runs great, without the constant priming. BTW - I found that Dealers will not cover any... » Read More Ned,I'm no mechanic, but I can tell you what happened to mine. Same problem, very hard to start and then to keep running. In a nutshell, I was using regular gasoline which in a few short months caused an air leak by eating into the seal on the carberator plate cover. You might want to check and see if you have any leakage on the bottom of the carb plate. I replaced the gasket and started using Alcohol free gasoline (which the literature says to use) and have had no futher problems. Starts easy, runs great, without the constant priming. BTW - I found that Dealers will not cover any gasoline areas under warranty. « Show Less
487788
Mike: silly question, but did you give the filter an extra push, plus push in the top rubber gasket some more to expose the thread? If this fails then the filter is too long. In that case I would be making an extended threaded mounting post. Or a special nut with a reduced diameter that will go inside the filter and catch the thread. My 10 gallon Craftsman has a 7/16 NC thread. I have the capability at home to manufacture these fixes, but if you do not I am at a loss for other solutions. Hoe about a recessed cup with a flange, then cut a bigger hole in the filter rubber and use a 7/16 nut inside the cup. Mike: silly question, but did you give the filter an extra push, plus push in the top rubber gasket some more to expose the thread? If this fails then the filter is too long. In that case I would be making an extended threaded mounting post. Or a special nut with a reduced diameter that will go inside the filter and catch the thread. My 10 gallon Craftsman has a 7/16 NC thread. I have the capability at home to manufacture these fixes, but if you do not I am at a loss for other solutions. Hoe about a recessed cup with a flange, then cut a bigger hole in the filter rubber and use a 7/16 nut... » Read More Mike: silly question, but did you give the filter an extra push, plus push in the top rubber gasket some more to expose the thread? If this fails then the filter is too long. In that case I would be making an extended threaded mounting post. Or a special nut with a reduced diameter that will go inside the filter and catch the thread. My 10 gallon Craftsman has a 7/16 NC thread. I have the capability at home to manufacture these fixes, but if you do not I am at a loss for other solutions. Hoe about a recessed cup with a flange, then cut a bigger hole in the filter rubber and use a 7/16 nut inside the cup. « Show Less
119780
My top clock gets 55 psi which is what the unit supports I believe for safety reasons. It may be that the gauge is reading low. If you are using it for carbonating water, leave 1/4 of a 2 liter empty, use refrigerated water, squeeze out the air before tightening the carbonator and shake vigorously for 30 seconds after tightening the carbonator and opening the tank and shut off valves - i always leave the bonnet valve open. You should have very very carbonated water - as carbonated as you've ever bought. Sorry, if it's for beer, I can't help.
185934
The threads on the top (as shown in the side view picture) are for the beer line. Get the adapter you need for you beer line. It will have a large nut with a compression washer to seal it. The CO2 connection is the barb fitting pointing off to the right. It fit right on my air hose I already had for home brews 5/16" ID.
672526
the connectors in the kit won't do it. You would need the 3/8" male quick connect fitting. But I'm not sure I'd trust just any old connector. Normally they are made for compressed air, and you would have to find ones made for LP gas use. Be careful, with that many connections, you'd be asking for leaks. If you do it, put a shut off at the source so you can shut the whole hose down.
883518
I did not have a leaking problem. Check all the connections and points where parts meet. I did install a shutoff in the gas line and each time I shut the unit off I turn off the gas and let it run dry, this helps reduce build up in the carburetor and hopefully will make the unit run well for a long time.
1507796
It's more about how much air the compressor will put out per minute. You will have to stop fairly frequently to let your setup catch up if you are painting something that is large. I have/had a set of these guns. You can't use them straight out of the box. Totally take them apart and clean all the junk out of them and take the plastic gasket, that divides the nozzle from the paint chamber, and some 800 grit sandpaper and on a flat surface, lap the gasket flat (can't remember if it's the front or back side but you'll be able to tell which one should be smooth). Mine leaked air, very badly, into the paint chamber. Every time I squeezed the trigger, you could see bubbles percolating through the paint. Lapping that hard plastic gasket stopped that. Don't expect to be able to spray a candy with these guns. The pattern(s) on mine is/are too inconsistent. I ended up buying a different gun to shoot my base/clear. Matt