Would this be a safe product to use on a small rust spot I have on my car's hood? It seems like a safer DIY alternative to grinding.
778602
Yes, I use it on small rust spots all the time and there is no need to sand first. I just wipe off the excess; it hasn't ever affected the surrounding paint. It will leave a film that can be easily wiped off. It works great. No need to use primer, just paint right after it drys.
778603
It's not something I would use alone it would have to be cleaned up some and maybe even filled with a heavy primer. the key behind this produce is it stops the rust through a chemical reaction. This chemical reaction may cause damage to areas with paint, Its a great product but follow the directions closely.
778604
Yes it works well. You just have to sand off the chunks of rust first then spray this on. I used it for the bottom of my car.
778605
Safe yes. But this product is more for hard to access area like the under carriage/frame or deep in engine bay. The hood is an area you would presumably want to sand away, then clean and prime for future painting. The rust converter merely stops the rust from progressing and that protects the remaining metal. But it does'nt look pretty.
430607
I would believe it would as I have used it on stainless steel facets in my home, however not on my automobiles as of yet. The label states it is safe and effective (shining, cleaning, etc.) on bumpers and chrome -- even fiberglass parts -- so, I would think it would be fine. It certainly works on gold and silver items, as I have used it on my jewelry and my wife's (even on a bracelet of hers that is steel wire and 14 Carrot Gold --so, give it a shot. I really like this stuff. I would note the it is a bit unusual to use, but once you get used to the hang of it, it does the job(s). Hope this helps you. W&gt;
691597
The post by gmcda gives some good advice. My 97 Chevy Tahoe had lots of rust on the exhaust. I was able to salvage my studs by using a rust dissolving catalyst spray called PB Blaster the night before. The next morning, I resprayed before I set out the tools. I used an impact wrench and I had all the studs out in minutes. Low torque is the key to not breaking the studs. Now, heat is king for removing rusty parts if you have it. The kit comes with new bolts and gasket for the rear flange so I used a sawzall to cut those bolts out by cutting right through the old rear flange gasket. Getting the exhaust plug and the drilling were the longest part of the project. The post by gmcda gives some good advice. My 97 Chevy Tahoe had lots of rust on the exhaust. I was able to salvage my studs by using a rust dissolving catalyst spray called PB Blaster the night before. The next morning, I resprayed before I set out the tools. I used an impact wrench and I had all the studs out in minutes. Low torque is the key to not breaking the studs. Now, heat is king for removing rusty parts if you have it. The kit comes with new bolts and gasket for the rear flange so I used a sawzall to cut those bolts out by cutting right through the old rear flange gasket. Getting... » Read More The post by gmcda gives some good advice. My 97 Chevy Tahoe had lots of rust on the exhaust. I was able to salvage my studs by using a rust dissolving catalyst spray called PB Blaster the night before. The next morning, I resprayed before I set out the tools. I used an impact wrench and I had all the studs out in minutes. Low torque is the key to not breaking the studs. Now, heat is king for removing rusty parts if you have it. The kit comes with new bolts and gasket for the rear flange so I used a sawzall to cut those bolts out by cutting right through the old rear flange gasket. Getting the exhaust plug and the drilling were the longest part of the project. « Show Less
169577
Yes, but heavily cavioted. It really depends on the subsurface of the material that you have paint on as what do do. As with any grinder it is very aggressive by its very nature. If you are removing paint an rust from steel, then a wire wheel with the proper sheilding and face guard will work. Let the wheel work, dont bear down. From wood, I'd recommend a sanding disk and again with the proper sheilding and face guard
1385356
I agree with the previous responder. I would be careful using something that aggressive on the finish. Have had great results with Bar Keepers helper when nothing else worked...particularly around rust.
724227
no doubt, just go ahead with it !!! is a great product even on metallic surfaces!!
441501
Try it on a small hidden area of the aluminum. This is such a terrific product, I would say, you have a chance for success!
1962491
I have not used it for that application, buy I would think that it would work well at removing any corrosion if it exists. It can't hurt in any case. I've been using DeOxit for many tears and have found that it works wonders on any and all electrical contacts. One area that people forget are the various ground straps or cables they have in the engine compartment. Disconnect them and clean well with De-Oxit and replace tightly. I've seen cleaning the grounds fix some strange electrical problems.
1729575
They make a cleaner wax and a straight wax. I thinks this is the straight wax. It has no grit. I would think it is totally safe.
1466905
I am sure it would do a good job of cleaning and would probably protect the contact for a time but after cleaning I would use an inhibitor grease that you should be able to get an Automotive parts store. I use inhibitor on my battery terminals as well. Hope this helps.
2072814
It will remove surface impurities. If you have some light corrosion or tarnish on the outside, then yes, some heavy polishing will take care of it. If the level of oxidation is too high, then the rust will have eroded and made pits in the metal. There is no helping that level of damage short of grinding away the surface completely.
1830582
I've used it to remove water spots on polished nickel. I would test the product on an inconspicuous spot on the chrome before using it on the whole surface.
754083
Not sure what you are using it for, but if your planning on doing a permanent long term repair I would replace the metal. Por has been a big pain in the butt for me. I'm running into problems using it to restore a car right now. I wish I never used any of their products to be honest with you. That said if you are making a temporary repair it sticks to sand blasted or rusted metal. Scrape the flaky rust off and clean it with a wire wheel use there metal clean and apply. Granted there is a place and time for por15 but it's very hard to top coat and takes a long time for all the processes to be completed. There support line is usually pretty informative though.
2133422
Sure. I wouldn't expect a whole lot out of it, really, but if you're painting your car with Rustoleum, implement enamel, or something of the like, it will allow you to accomplish a fair job. If you've got an old pickup that you've just done some basic bodywork (i.e.: rust repair) on and you're just looking to make it all one color again, this would be a great way to go. I wouldn't advise one to use this thing for spraying Centauri or Imron, but if you're about to do that you're likely not even going to think about using this in the first place!
1719092
I would clean it with a Brillo pad, make sure it's rinsed good and then dry, and then protect the parts where the rust were with some car wax.
1930085
It's only recommended for the Black Cars. It shouldn't be used on anything else. It will dull the areas with the flakes.
883322
Sorry for the delay but I don't think so. It is very thin and while it may not hurt you, I think you would be better off using a mechanical means of removing the corrosion. I would actually go and get a couple of grades of steel wool and see which one works the best at physical removal or the rust and corrosion. If you have some tiny little areas you want to clean, that you cannot reach with steel wool, I would use a brass or stainless brush in my Dremmel Tool (make sure you wear safety glasses particularly if working in the oven). Problem is of course is that with your continued use of oven cleaner, those area that have already corroded, will begin to corrode again once new oven cleaner is applied. If faced with this problem, I would leave the oven cleaner on just long enough to soften grease and crud, and then well wash your shelves and oven walls, and DRY EVERYTHING WELL. Use your wife's hair dryer or heat gun to make sure walls and shelves do not stay "wet" overnight and start to corrode over again. Any product you can find will either burn off, melt, or be too thin to maintain itself unless you can find so type of high temperature silicone grease, which would be found in industrial and commercial baking applications. I have food safe silicone grease for my meat grinder gears where it stays in place perfectly - it of course is not subject to high temperatures found in an oven interior. Don't know if any of this has helped. Let me know if it does and feel free to ask another question.