Was thinking about a 9 inch band saw but saw this scroll saw. Pros and cons. Building a wall mounted bookcase/cost rack out of 1/2 inch popular.
739793
Good machine for the money. It will vibrate more than a high end machine. My saw cuts well. I made several puzzles for Christmas gifts and I was surprised to get as good and clean cut as I did. My light broke the first week.
712657
This saw isn't nearly as heavy as a miter saw, so weight shouldn't be an issue. However, if you mount this on plywood, you WILL start a fire if you cut metal. It needs to be mounted on some kind of tile backer board. Sparks fly *far* out the back, and they go straight under the unit onto the table beneath.
399711
I tend to use mine more for precision work, where there is a need for more portability or where my full size rip saw cannot get in. I would cut 3/4" materials with a full size unit.
819196
The jigsaw is better for rougher cuts on semi thick wood. If you are doing something intricate on thinner wood like balsa, you would want the scroll saw.
1646766
This is a big heavy saw and not really designed to be used other than at flat horizontal with a guide. You certainly won't be making precision cuts on a vertical wall unless you bolt on some guides and possibly have an extra hand.
391130
I have used it but I bought a 12" roller from Harbor Freight and placed it on the edge surface of a 2 x 4 and used it that way. This made sure that it didn't drag too much over the surface. It might work just find by itself but you might try it and then try my suggestion. I am using it with a Craftsman Professional table saw with a 30" fence width.
1067660
Unless you're planning to do small edge treatments, like small roundovers or chamfers, or narrow grooves, this awesome tool is not a good choice for general purpose table mounting. A better choice would be the ~ 2HP models from major vendors, best would be the 3HP, like the largest Porter Cable or Milwaukee examples.
1997374
I use this saw on tenon and general cuts. The 9 tpi side is somewhat course as a rip blade. I haven't found it useful for what I do. If I was buying again I would think about the single side blade with about 15 - 17 tpi.
2282825
I use the saw to cut zinc for stained glass. It is noisy, but probably may be a little quieter cutting wood than zinc.
429115
This is a hack saw that is used for metal. Since you need one to cut light weight wood such as bass wood, poplar or pine check out the Stanley 20-221 mini utility saw. This kind of saw would be good for wood probably less than 1/2" thick. If you want to cut thicker wood check out the cross cut saws. They all are rated not just by length but by the number of points (PTS). The more points the finer the cut, it also means it will take longer to cut through the wood. If you are doing modeling type of work you can use several different types of saws but if you just want to cut straight a dovetail saw may help, there are also gent saws a smaller version. If need to cut circular patterns a coping saw or the lighter weight fret saw may be what you need. I realize that you only asked a simple question and I, obviously, gave a very long answer but I don't know exactly what you want to cut so I apologize. It just may be the first two options should be the choice to make.
1395391
I built my own. Mounted a 1x4 with a stop block and a clamp for repeated cuts. Also built several sleds for mitered cuts that have clamps. Be creative ...
1391719
If money were no object then I'd probably go for something more like a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw (or something along those lines). But for the price this is probably as good as it gets. But I wouldn't say its "ideal" for joinery ...however I use mine for making dovetails and box joints ... and it does a good job.
838180
Really depends on what you'll be doing with it. I looked at sliding saws too, and just couldn't come to terms with paying the money. If you're planning on just cutting 2x4s or 2x8's etc you'll be fine.
2011369
II am very happy with the 10" saw that I have. It cuts a 4x4 and many 4 x 6 finished lumber. It takes less room than the 12" saw and I mounted it in my work bench
385791
It depends on your preferences, which may be influenced in part by your table saw. A stacked dado is nearly infinitely adjustable. I also happen to like the large cast iron surface and 500# of stability my table saw provides. A smaller saw might not be so user friendly to use. I do use a router for dados on occasion, but generally prefer the TS. A router is a super handy tool to have, so is recommended for nearly any shop....for the cost of a straight bit, why not add the capability of doing dados with the router too? Having choices is generally a nice option.
2248682
Depends on what type of projects you are trying to accomplish. I have been a little disappointed in my kreg jig honestly. It is good for joining 1x dimensional lumber but not good in joining 1x to 2x or 2x to 2x. Id imagine if you went smaller than 1x, it would provide very little strength to joints. The master system gives you a few bells and whistles like the clamp but you're fine saving a few bucks and going with another if you wanted.
497054
So far we have used the saw to cut 2x4's. It cut like butter at that depth. Not sure about anything larger than that as far as ease of cutting.