I got my vest - I don't see two linings, how do I get the quilted off and only use the thinner lining for summer?
132506
It's not two separate linings. The outside is one texture and the inside is quilted and it's all one piece and is nicely made.
568892
I would probably use this vest in conjunction with gel packs. The individual ice pockets are joined together in sheets, but the pockets are fairly small, so they 'melt' quicker than gel packs. That being said, though, I LOVE my vest. I don't use it nearly as often as you have to, but it works well for me in the summer. If you only ice your back, you can keep the two front panels in the freezer while you use the back panel, then keep switching them out as needed. Use the gel packs in between if the vest packs don't refreeze fast enough. I hope this helps!
1648202
I just cut it to the same size as curtain panel and then sewed it to the back of the panel. To make it less obvious, I sewed it along the seam that was already on the original curtain.
1443343
You might need someone else to help with this. While you have it on have someone push one of the shoulder straps in towards the front of the vest. Once it is at the desired height close the velcro on that strap. Repeat for the other strap. Make sure you have the Velcro on the shoulders open before you push the straps in.
2057762
That is correct. Put the stabilizer in the hoop. Remove enough of the paper so the design will fit into it, the take your fabric and place it onto the sticky stabilizer and stitch away.so very easy. I love it.
284291
You need to use a quilt hanger sleeve along the back top edge of the quilt. You leave a small section open (finished) in the middle of the sleeve. You can sew the top edge(s) of the sleeve into the top seam of the quilt along with the binding and then handsew the other edges, or just handsew all the way around. Or - You can buy a sleeve ready to use from the same company. It's a brilliant design for supporting the quilt and displaying it with no other leveling needed. Here's a good website that even has a video explaining this. http://www.hangitdangit.com/instructions.asp These are the best quilt hangers I've ever used!
2001456
We weren't able to do that. We tried several different patterns to accomplish using only one piece, but it wasn't possible! Good luck. The bulk liner is definitely thicker than a store-bought basket liner and will last longer (we hope) but it didn't turn out to be cheaper.
1167656
Another possibility is to have a local seamstress make you a replacement. I had to do that with the cuffs on a jacket of mine.
864537
Hi, Janet. The instructions for the one I bought were in the packaging itself, printed on a fold of the cardboard, if this makes sense. It looks complicated to attach, but it is really easy. You make sure that the two-pronged portion goes around the attachment screw on the base of the foot-holder. I'm a recent sewer and quilter so I may not be using the right terminology, but if you know anyone that sews regularly they could help you. Good luck.
1975709
I cut a piece bigger than my design and lightly iron it on the back. I then mark the cross lines on the back and hoop a piece of tear away and draw line on it and then match the two up and pin in the corners. I then baste the design when I get it to my machine and use light water soluable on the top if it is a knit.
1230664
Hold you duvet cover and the quilt at the edge you want held together and sandwich the material in between the clips and push closed the foam part should cover the clip. You should really use more then one set (at least 2 sets) for a full, queen size comforter. You can still feel them through the fabric when you sleep. But it is better then have the quilt bunch up inside the cover. I used 2 sets (8) on a queen size cover. Hope this helps.
1019694
Best explanations I saw were the first and second answers to the fifth question: "how do you get the bottom and side supports into the pockets?" from Feb 18, 2014. I trimmed the long sides of each strip with a small taper running about two inches in from the narrow ends. That lets you slide the ends into the very tight fabric pockets. Then follow the second answer to maneuver the strips into place. Once you gwt one in, it's all much clearer ... and you'll not have to redo it once they are assembled. I love them and carry massive groceries in them and in a cooler strapped atop them. Only on the bike when needed. Best explanations I saw were the first and second answers to the fifth question: "how do you get the bottom and side supports into the pockets?" from Feb 18, 2014. I trimmed the long sides of each strip with a small taper running about two inches in from the narrow ends. That lets you slide the ends into the very tight fabric pockets. Then follow the second answer to maneuver the strips into place. Once you gwt one in, it's all much clearer ... and you'll not have to redo it once they are assembled. I love them and carry massive groceries in them and in a cooler strapped atop... » Read More Best explanations I saw were the first and second answers to the fifth question: "how do you get the bottom and side supports into the pockets?" from Feb 18, 2014. I trimmed the long sides of each strip with a small taper running about two inches in from the narrow ends. That lets you slide the ends into the very tight fabric pockets. Then follow the second answer to maneuver the strips into place. Once you gwt one in, it's all much clearer ... and you'll not have to redo it once they are assembled. I love them and carry massive groceries in them and in a cooler strapped atop them. Only on the bike when needed. « Show Less
1119820
Hi there. I took a good look at the front and back and it looks like you can do this. There are two rows of stitching for each section and the threads are fairly thin - you will need to use a seam cutter (sewing item). It does look as if you can remove them and create one large section. Note - there is a zipper for both sections and the bottom one is close to where the section starts - does not look like it would interfere with your trying to make this a one section bag - just don't open the bottom zipper.Regards
2130134
I agree with a previous response from a fellow quilter. I like the recessed area. In order to enclose the entire opening, we used a piece of the foam that came in the box to fill in the space between my machine and the edge of the opening. Works great. I love it!
2122710
Hi Terri, I don't have the instructions anymore. The best thing to do is to group the rods according to lengths. Look at the pictures of the cottage carefully, maybe draw a diagram yourself and try to guess which rod lengths will go to which area. The rods form the frame in which you drape your cottage fabric over. You should have 2 house shaped frames. Drape the cottage fabric over the outside of the frame first then align or fit the inner cottage fabric (yes, ita a double layer) and zip up. Try to fix this up. It is really worth your while.
108803
I have cut the material and gave some thought to fraying before making the cut also. I had an old iron that I had warmed(not hot or you'll melt the fabric) standing by. After making the cut, I ran the warm iron over the cut line to soften the cut area and fuse any frayed ends together. You can also create a hem at your cutline-folding the cutline and frayed ends under. I used a hot glue gun(low setting not high) to bond the hem closed. Heat is your friend-just don't get carried away or you'll melt things rather than soften and join. If you are going to have some extra, just cut off a small piece and experiment.
1016764
It came in a lightweight bubble wrap sleeve. It should be easy enough to sew a soft padded pouch of some sort to slide it into if you're able to do such. I intend to do that soon but so far have used that plastic sleeve.