is there 24 volts coming out of the relays when the sensor is activated, i have one but checked for 24 volts at the relay and nothing.
749778
i am not an electrician but with one 9 volt battery at the relay, i would think its somewhat less than that.
792506
Bad connection??I haven't had this happen. Been using the gauges about 2 years now.If voltage is right around the cutoff of 4.5V I suppose it could blink on/off as the voltage hovers around that point. Gauge puts a tiny load on system so volts would drop, then without the load V would increase again over 4.5V so it would light up again, and the cycle would repeat.
973893
The original kit used a electronic sensor strip that wrapped around the motor to monitor and control speeds. The new kit eliminates this sensor.the light switch works,but not as good in my mind. What's wrong with your old installation? If the fan quit due to static if surges, you can remove the fan shroud without taking the fan down.lremove the main circuit board and inspect....should find 1 resister burnt. If not sure, use an ohm meter and look for the open resister..it's in a bank of about 3 resistors.. I repaired mine 4 times over the years and it was always the same resistor. Cost of repair, 1 hour total labor, 50 cents for the resistor at radio shack. I certainly like the old control vs the new one. Had I known what I do now,I would have repaired it again. Thought the new design would be better, boy was I wrong..good luck, it's very easy.look in you tube and there are videos showing the whole repair procedure. Merry Xmas to all.
1815009
I have not. How are you verifying the modes? Are you using external lights/LED as indicators or are you just listening for the relay clicks? If you are in a somewhat noisy environment i would suggest external LEDs. If you are in a quiet area you have to listen very closely for both clicks on the relay making sure you don't continuously hold down the button on the transmitter. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure you have the correct chip and that it is not in backwards. If you have an IC tester you can verify that the chip is good. Let me know if this helps.
190978
I'm assume the relay position you're talking about is White connected to Gray. At that time, is the Black wire connected to anything? The Enforcer sounds like a mechanical relay (it "clicks"), so I doubt you'd get any stray current into Black at the sensor.
1808302
I used 14 AWG stranded, because I use it as a constant fan for my truck. I also used a relay with an inline fuse to the battery for power, grounded to a good ground for power and switch ground. I attached the positive of the relay switch to a switch leg and back to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ignition at on position. check your manual or use a multimeter and test fuses that are only on with the key and off when the ignition is off. This protects your battery from drain and your electrical system from a fire. Maybe over kill but I had a vehicular fire under both gasoline and electrical (not proud of it just grateful to be alive). I hope that was of some help. I used 14 AWG stranded, because I use it as a constant fan for my truck. I also used a relay with an inline fuse to the battery for power, grounded to a good ground for power and switch ground. I attached the positive of the relay switch to a switch leg and back to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ignition at on position. check your manual or use a multimeter and test fuses that are only on with the key and off when the ignition is off. This protects your battery from drain and your electrical system from a fire. Maybe over kill but I had a vehicular fire under both... » Read More I used 14 AWG stranded, because I use it as a constant fan for my truck. I also used a relay with an inline fuse to the battery for power, grounded to a good ground for power and switch ground. I attached the positive of the relay switch to a switch leg and back to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ignition at on position. check your manual or use a multimeter and test fuses that are only on with the key and off when the ignition is off. This protects your battery from drain and your electrical system from a fire. Maybe over kill but I had a vehicular fire under both gasoline and electrical (not proud of it just grateful to be alive). I hope that was of some help. « Show Less
228976
I just use a regular 12 auto relay. 4 prong. Same as my HID kits etc. the one with the 30, 85, 86, 87 labeled prongs.
146818
A 3 volt "trigger" won't do anything with this. If you are referring to the relay after the count and trip is fine but this runs on 12 volts aka a 23AE battery...3 volts won't turn this timer/relay on.
2259849
I couldn't get it to work properly. I decided to go with this from ebay. Woks perfectly. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Automatic-Infrared-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Switch-DC-12V-24V-8A-Detector-Practical-/261479825604?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3ce16980c4
1418155
This thermostat opens and closes a 24Volt AC circuit. Are you using a 24Volt ACRelay to activate the Heating Unit. Is the Relay a mechanical unit or a sealed unit? If your Relay is a mechanical, then the contacts on the switch portion of the Relay will spark. If this is the case, the Relay had better be located outside the garage to avoid igniting the gasoline and/or propane and/or natural gas fumes.G.
985765
It appears that the sensor is 120 volt. The back of the sensor does not give any information. The power module is rated at 120VAC and 10amp with output max at 240 watt. The power cord from the module to the sensor is rated at 300volt, 24AWG which gives the impression that the sensor is at least 120volt or else why would they make it with that heavy duty cord. That is all I can decern from the product itself. Dave
1729691
Check connections one might be loose or you hook the hot into sensor might have fried it bottom line recheck your wireing I would start there
422676
There should be 5 terminals on the control module, which connect to the thermostat. They are marked like "Y, W, R, G, C" stand for Yellow, White, Red, Green, and Common. I disconnected the "R" wire and connected the switch in between. The two wires you talked about might be the one went to the out door unit (24 V). Double check it by following it where it goes to. You can also check your thermostat two see how many wires are used.
26199
I just changed my sensor and my light is still on, call up denso customer service line and tell them which bank and which sensor it is (sesor 1 or 2) and they should be able to confirm before you buy it, I advise DONT buy any sensors until you confirm which one it is, I believe on our gs there are a total of 4 02 sensors
247936
This is a double pull, double throw timer for 240 volts. it does not have any 24 volt connections. You are more likely to find this voltge in a timer for lawn sprinklers
1068502
1 & 2 are the VAC in. 3 is the Negative SSR, 4 is the positive. Polarity matters. 5&6 is a low power alarm relay. 9, 10, 11, & 12 are all for the temperature sensor.
559024
Check the fuse also sometimes they go out for the sensors! you could also put a voltmeter on the wiring to make sure there is a 12 volt signal at the sensor you have to have the ignition to the on mode (engine off) i can't remember which one is supposed to have the signal but one of them does.if the fuse is good and you still don't get a signal at the sensor you probably have a short in the wiring somewhere. Also the OBD computer codes need to be cleared and the car has to be driven so that every thing can re calibrate.