What is the difference between this and the HQRP Solar 10A Charge Power Controller / Regulator 12V / 24V 10 Amp with LED Indicator plus HQRP UV Chain / UV Radiation Health Tester that is $31: Model SCP? What is the difference between this and the HQRP Solar 10A Charge Power Controller / Regulator 12V / 24V 10 Amp with LED Indicator plus HQRP UV Chain / UV Radiation Health Tester that is $31:... » Read More What is the difference between this and the HQRP Solar 10A Charge Power Controller / Regulator 12V / 24V 10 Amp with LED Indicator plus HQRP UV Chain / UV Radiation Health Tester that is $31: Model SCP? « Show Less
605864
I don't know. I think I had the same question when I was looking at them and couldn't tell a difference so I just bought the cheaper one.
1796516
Get the MPPT controller. It is more expensive but will allow battery charging even if the sun is not at full strength yet. You will get energy starting earlier in the day and also get charging later in the day.
1487967
There a few small differences with these three chargers. The SC-1200A is the lowest end then the SSC-1000A is in the middle with the SSC-1500 as the highest end. The SC model is a speed charger and will charge at a selectable rate of 3A or 12A. And the battery types it will charge is STD and AGM. The SSC models are a Ship n Shore Speed chargers. They will charge 3 types of batteries, STD (low maintenance/ maintenance free), AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat construction) and GEL (very deep cycle application batteries). The 1000 model will charge at 2A, 6A, or 10A as a selection choice. Where the 1500 model will charge at the rate of 3A or 15A, whichever is selected. Hope this answers your questions. There a few small differences with these three chargers. The SC-1200A is the lowest end then the SSC-1000A is in the middle with the SSC-1500 as the highest end. The SC model is a speed charger and will charge at a selectable rate of 3A or 12A. And the battery types it will charge is STD and AGM. The SSC models are a Ship n Shore Speed chargers. They will charge 3 types of batteries, STD (low maintenance/ maintenance free), AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat construction) and GEL (very deep cycle application batteries). The 1000 model will charge at 2A, 6A, or 10A as a selection choice. Where the 1500... » Read More There a few small differences with these three chargers. The SC-1200A is the lowest end then the SSC-1000A is in the middle with the SSC-1500 as the highest end. The SC model is a speed charger and will charge at a selectable rate of 3A or 12A. And the battery types it will charge is STD and AGM. The SSC models are a Ship n Shore Speed chargers. They will charge 3 types of batteries, STD (low maintenance/ maintenance free), AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat construction) and GEL (very deep cycle application batteries). The 1000 model will charge at 2A, 6A, or 10A as a selection choice. Where the 1500 model will charge at the rate of 3A or 15A, whichever is selected. Hope this answers your questions. « Show Less
649909
I need more information than you are supplying to help. In short 40 amp is about 400 watts give or take. I use this controller and have had very good results, however I chose to change my legacy system to 24 volt rather than stay 12 as it provides several advantages. By reducing the number of batteries in series it allows for a better electron flow assisting in keeping the batteries balanced. My Solar array consists of 3 250 watt 30 volt black panels I got from Amazon, they are in series feeding this controller. I have 8 390AH flooded 6 volt batteries, they are configured 4 in series with two banks of 24 volts in parallel. This configuration allows for a more even charge all my batteries are now testing at full charge. When I bought this place the previous owner had 6 batteries in a 12 volt configuration and I found that only 2 to four of the 6 were getting fully charged. The batteries at the negative end were absorbing properly but the farther down the battery array the batteries never fully charged. It also increased the amperage so I have now have more available power. I also have a 850 watt wind generator tied in parallel to my solar array running to this charge controller. Since I went to this configuration I have not run out of power once, making my bride happier. I can now run my welder and other power tools life is good. If you feel you truly need to add a second controller you simply parallel the output of the controllers together. Hope this helps.
2215261
The goal of using an "MPPT" (maximum power point tracking) controller with a panel like this is to automatically detect how much power you can get (in both volts and amps) from the panel, then take that and put out as much power as you can to the battery you're charging. On many panels like this, the actual optimum output (to get the "50 watts" it's labeled as) is at something like 19V & 2.6 amps, yet charging a typical 12V battery (which is "fully charged" at 14-14.5V) would mean that just connecting it directly only gives you ~40 watts with the 2.6 amps at ~14V. An MPPT controller will take in that 19V 2.6 amps and give off ~14V 3.3 amps where both of those powers are ~50 watts, but are obviously different V & A ammounts. So being able to take in all the power you can (but not be virtually "shorting" out the panel) as well as "transform" all of that to the best voltage & amps takes a lot more circuitry than a cheapy controller that just "switches on & off" based on reaching the battery "full voltage" level (or detecting a drop in battery voltage). You can choose to design a controller intended to be able to handle 100 watts, 500 watts, 1000 watts, or any other range you want (which can be for certain size panels and/or battery sizes). One MPPT controller I have even says it can take in power at 19V, 38V or 69V from panels and then put out power to a battery bank at ~12V or 24V systems (and will automatically detect the power from each of those systems & adjust things internally having the same "input" and "output" connections for any system). Of course you still need higher input voltage than output, so you can't charge 24V batteries with only 19V input (unless you can come up with a way to "transform" things in that manor). Hope you can come up with a fairly efficient circuit design.
2233948
There are two types of charge controllers; PWM and MPPT. I have 3x 100w panels ran in parallel to triple my charge amperage. This maintains the panels at 12v, but triples the amperage. I have a 30a charge regulator, which is PWM. I have read, though, that MPPT is the newest and best charging technology available. The PWM regulators are cheaper, but you get what you pay for. My next charge regulator will definitely be a MPPT. Google it. You'll figure out the difference between to two. Just be sure that you size your regulator bigger than your solar panel array for room to grow, and so that you don't constantly put your charge regulator under too much stress from incoming amperage. Here's the charge regulator I purchased http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/46835087/789550567/TomTop-30A-12V-24V-Intelligent-LCD-PWM-Solar-Charge-Controller-Solar-Panel-Battery-Regulator/ListingDetails.html?_%24ja=tsid:13315|cat:46835087|prd:46835087&ef_id=Udt8FQAABKfxcsgO:20130709151438:s It works well, but now is starting to be a little troublesome with the display just after 9 months of use. Spend a little more money and get one that is MPPT, and make sure you have an LCD screen. It's nice to know the charge, draw, and basic voltage of your battery bank.
1090206
as long as they are 12 volt batteries; I Would highly reccomend you also get an"AGPtek LED Solar Panel Charge Controller 10A 12V/24V" with its safety factor you can monitor whats going on, less than 20 bucks at amazon. where do you live you understand thats a factor
467337
You've probably checked on line, but this is a good site to reference http://www.chargingchargers.com/tutorials/solar.html 25 milliamps is really small, and may not generate enough watts to bring the controller into play. I connected the controller to a largish solar panel, output approx 20 volts, for keeping my boat battery topped up.. the combination seems to work well at this level. Hope this helps.
243038
Frank, i have a Renogy catalog on front of me and don't see a 350 panel. This must be something new. And by 30ampcharge controller I assume a PWM charge controller. Your panel can be 12 or 24v not both, unless this is somethingreally new. You might try one of the solar forums or email Renogy support. Don't call tech support because i tried.Don't. Ok? Try Northern Arizona wind&sun; or midnite solar forums. Also midnite solar has videos on youtube about everything. You should be able to charge a 12v battery with a 12v panel and charge controller-period. Unless the battery is no good. Put a voltmeter at the output of panel then the output of charge controller. Good luck. Frank, i have a Renogy catalog on front of me and don't see a 350 panel. This must be something new. And by 30ampcharge controller I assume a PWM charge controller. Your panel can be 12 or 24v not both, unless this is somethingreally new. You might try one of the solar forums or email Renogy support. Don't call tech support because i tried.Don't. Ok? Try Northern Arizona wind&sun; or midnite solar forums. Also midnite solar has videos on youtube about everything. You should be able to charge a 12v battery with a 12v panel and charge controller-period. Unless the battery is... » Read More Frank, i have a Renogy catalog on front of me and don't see a 350 panel. This must be something new. And by 30ampcharge controller I assume a PWM charge controller. Your panel can be 12 or 24v not both, unless this is somethingreally new. You might try one of the solar forums or email Renogy support. Don't call tech support because i tried.Don't. Ok? Try Northern Arizona wind&sun; or midnite solar forums. Also midnite solar has videos on youtube about everything. You should be able to charge a 12v battery with a 12v panel and charge controller-period. Unless the battery is no good. Put a voltmeter at the output of panel then the output of charge controller. Good luck. « Show Less
1852677
If I understand your question correctly. your requirement is for a 400 watts solar input and if 408 watts of solar input is ok, I am assuming your question is for an off grid system (charging batteries). Question is if your your charge controller can accommodate additional 8 watts of input or ignore this additional watts without damaging any of the equipment. Please check the documentation of your equipment (charge controller) if it will work properly with the additional power provided by the solar panels. Normally additional power provided by the solar panels is ignored, one should make sure that electrical specs are matched with the solar input with the charger such as input voltage 24v panel and 24v charge controller input. Output from the charge controller should be matched with the battery voltage such as 24v solar panel, 24v charger and 24v battery, if different use an MPPT charge controller which can accept higher voltage from the solar panel and charge a lower voltage battery such as 24v panel, MPPT charge controller and 12v battery. Hope I have answered the question.
51076
Yes, I am busy using it to indicate the charge coming from a bank of solar panels. I am going up to a max of 42A (using the 200A shunt) - it does not seem to give a reading at low currents e.g. 1A but once it goes over this it is pretty accurate. I am using the battery that I am charging as the supply and it works fine.
714718
There is a person selling this exact same set-up (this 30-watt solar panel and a duracell 600 power pack), for $400. He calls this same combo "solar generator plug n play ...". Check-out his ad both here and on fleabay. He's apparently using the adapter that came with this solar panel. (Even if you end up buying an adapter, you will still be saving money.) Buy these two items (solar panel and battery) - Save about 100 dollars!When you get the correct info on the adapters - please post it here! Try their 1-800 phone number -- For accurate information
1957392
Some solar panel controllers need to have 5 volts above operating voltage to 'start' operating so you may need a 17volt 2.5 amp PSU to get correct nominal 12 volt operation. I have used a 7 amp solar power controller on a mains electric Generator's 12 volt 'battery charging' output that was putting out 16 or 17 volts and was able to charge a sealed lead acid battery at 14.4 volts.
2053560
The 19010 is the older version at mentioned. The only difference I know of is 19010 has a small pouch (about the size of the guide 10 battery pack). The 41022 has a mesh pocket the entire size of the solar panel and you can store the guide 10 with 4 - AA batteries, 4-AAA batteries in the adapter, the luna led bar, and i store my iphone charging cord. With the 19010 you have no storage room with the kit and you have to store separately. I HIGHLY suggest getting the 41022. I'm pretty sure the solar charging is the same on both but I am not positive on that.
1682930
I'm not 100% sure what you mean by aftermarket regulator. If that's a charge controller (basically a thing to prevent too much charge from going in the battery or any charge from leaving the battery when the sun isn't shining) then I have the answer. I've been using an AGPtek charge controller. They're around $40 and are pretty easy to wire correctly. They have LEDs that show you when you're charging, when you're drawing and how full your battery is. Hope that helps.
1549932
Not 100% sure, but my bet is the higher charging rate. This one is rated at 600mA to 1000mA, where the one you reference is rated only at 500mA.
198107
I own both the UV and the LED Thermal Spa light. I am not sure what the watts mean. I do know that the LED is much faster.... 30 seconds vs 3 minutes. We are very happy with the LED lamp. Our UV lamp is collecting dust.