I have a 10x30 second story deck that is 9 years old and have used 2 different types of sealers, the scond of which peeled off two years after applying. The deck sees tempature swings up to 40 to 50 degrees at times and lots of afternoon sun. I am looking for a product that I can spray on to save some time as I am sure I will have to treat the deck every few years in this environment. Would this be a good candidate for this deck or should I go with a oil based resin? not picky on the color. Thanks. I have a 10x30 second story deck that is 9 years old and have used 2 different types of sealers, the scond of which peeled off two years after applying. The deck sees tempature swings up to 40 to... » Read More I have a 10x30 second story deck that is 9 years old and have used 2 different types of sealers, the scond of which peeled off two years after applying. The deck sees tempature swings up to 40 to 50 degrees at times and lots of afternoon sun. I am looking for a product that I can spray on to save some time as I am sure I will have to treat the deck every few years in this environment. Would this be a good candidate for this deck or should I go with a oil based resin? not picky on the color. Thanks. « Show Less
774112
I used this product on new wood with no sealant. I would contact the company direct to see if can be used on treated wood.
774113
Valhalla only needs to be used once to permanently treated "raw" wood. Since your wood was previously finished I don't think you should use it unless there is absolutely no evidence of the sealers used before. Unlike finishes that remain on the surface this product penetrates to preserve leaving the wood a silvery grey brown. Works great on rough cut pine and hemlock, also on weathered pressure treated, not so much on new pressure treated, seems to just roll off.
774114
Lifetime can only be used on "virgin" wood. Once you have applied sealers or coatings it will not work. This is my understanding. Whats nice about lifetime is you can put other coatings over it if you don't like the results. But not the other way around. Too bad because Lifetime is awesome! I've used it on a project 12yrs ago and it preserves the wood with amazing results. I live in Hawaii where the environment is brutal and lifetime is the only product that hold up the longest
774115
I would not use this product to protect anything in the sun. I used it on 6 rocking chairs and after 3 years they literally fell apart. It is easy to apply and environmentally friendly but it does not protect
774116
I rebuilt a pickett fence located in SE PA in August of 2013 and dipped each board into this product, allowed it to soak for 5 minutes and then air dried before installing. It has to soak into the wood and dries to a silver grey color. I see no deterioration over the last 20 months. If your wood is not sealed, I think that this could be sprayed on. It comes as a water soluble powder..
774117
Hi Tony, this is a water based preservative application for new wood. The previous oil products would prevent uses of Valhalla as we know it.
774118
if you visit the web site it will explain what the limits are... and how it may respond to conditions you mention... if the wood is bare and absorbent you can spray it with the life time treatment and forget about it. leave it bare. I have a deck made of rough cut 2x4s untreated that is going on 8 yrs old. all I did was to get the surfaces of the boards wet with the treatment... and so far its great... the sales person I talked to related to me that the treatment merely changes the Ph of the wood
774119
You can use this on a previously sealed deck. The older the better (less work.) You'll just need to strip the sealant using non chlorine bleach diluted in water and 'painted' on and power washed off. The reason you use bleach is because it's an oxidizing agent. Oxidation of the stain from the porous wood membrane happens over a long period of time, naturally, with exposure to sun, rain, etc. Non chlorine bleach simply speeds it up.
236091
I'm not sure what you are asking, but there is a 24 hour recommended drying period. I live in Florida and used this product to seal my chimney flashing after spending $20,000 with roofers who never did fix the problem. This sealant fixed it first time. It was applied during the heat of the summer in June, had to be at least 105 on the roof top.
173218
I actually talked to the company, they said once a year is sufficient. Preferably applied in spring, but not required then. Just do not apply it during possible freezing temps or a day of heavy rain.
784387
I am a nail technician who specializes in artificial nails and have been using this product for about 10 years. 2 min is the recommended cure time for this product. First off I have a couple of questions regarding use for troubleshooting purposes. What type of nail are you applying to? This product is for artificial nails (ie. acrylics and permanent uv gel nails) only as a acetone proof finish coating and not for use as a coating for natural nails or for use for gel manicure products. There are other products out there that are for natural nail use that are better for sealing nail polish and are made to be compatible with traditional nail polish that stay for almost 3 weeks! What type of uv lamp and bulb wattage are you using? And more important how old are the bulbs. Best uv bulb wattage is the 4- 9 watt uv lamps. Also note this isn't a product that is compatable with " at home uv lamps or LED lamps. Hope to help you. Sounds from your post you are applying to something that the product isn't made for. Cracking comes from improper use and normally comes from placing it on top of nail polish and or as a nail strengthener which it isn't made for and doesn't have the flexibility that natural nails have. Other products on the market for application as a nail polish sealer have a little more flexibility and won't crack.
268998
Barbara, personally, I would investigate other products. Based on my experience applying this to our deck, I wouldn't recommend.
732248
good point. this will be my first summer using it. it did wonders for the winter. my bedroom and bathroom over the garage hit 80 degrees for the first time since I owned the house. I will definitely keep an eye on the temps this summer. Worst case I should delicately be able to remove the insulation for the summer. Shoot me a message in August. I will let you know if my house burned down. lol
558668
These are proprietary to this panel, but get another set of Z brackets (regular ones) in case you need extra support at any other point.I used a a 6"x6" block of composite deck planking (fake wood used for decks) under each bracket, slathered with roofing tar as the base screwed to the roof. (From Lowes... and I got the flat one, not the ribbed one)This gave me more room to get perfect panel location since I used four panels for my array. This also allows you and extra inch of airspace under each panel for summer ventilation. Make sure you get good stainless steel screws long enough to penetrate fully and securely. These are proprietary to this panel, but get another set of Z brackets (regular ones) in case you need extra support at any other point.I used a a 6"x6" block of composite deck planking (fake wood used for decks) under each bracket, slathered with roofing tar as the base screwed to the roof. (From Lowes... and I got the flat one, not the ribbed one)This gave me more room to get perfect panel location since I used four panels for my array. This also allows you and extra inch of airspace under each panel for summer ventilation. Make sure you get good stainless steel... » Read More These are proprietary to this panel, but get another set of Z brackets (regular ones) in case you need extra support at any other point.I used a a 6"x6" block of composite deck planking (fake wood used for decks) under each bracket, slathered with roofing tar as the base screwed to the roof. (From Lowes... and I got the flat one, not the ribbed one)This gave me more room to get perfect panel location since I used four panels for my array. This also allows you and extra inch of airspace under each panel for summer ventilation. Make sure you get good stainless steel screws long enough to penetrate fully and securely. « Show Less
1615979
I'm tossing out a guess here based on my recent usage of one can of the hardener and resin. I got a nice, hard coat formed on a slab of plywood (the transom of a boat) by giving it three separate applications. One application will do fine if you are looking for moisture resistance. For water-proof you'll need at least two, maybe more evenly applied applications. As far as how far it will stretch, I'm guessing that you can put a single coat on three sheets of 6x8 plywood (both sides) before you ran out. Hopefully, that will give you a mental picture of how much surface one can can cover. (See also: www.westsystem.com/ss/thinning-west-system-epoxy/ I'm tossing out a guess here based on my recent usage of one can of the hardener and resin. I got a nice, hard coat formed on a slab of plywood (the transom of a boat) by giving it three separate applications. One application will do fine if you are looking for moisture resistance. For water-proof you'll need at least two, maybe more evenly applied applications. As far as how far it will stretch, I'm guessing that you can put a single coat on three sheets of 6x8 plywood (both sides) before you ran out. Hopefully, that will give you a mental picture of how much surface one can can cover.... » Read More I'm tossing out a guess here based on my recent usage of one can of the hardener and resin. I got a nice, hard coat formed on a slab of plywood (the transom of a boat) by giving it three separate applications. One application will do fine if you are looking for moisture resistance. For water-proof you'll need at least two, maybe more evenly applied applications. As far as how far it will stretch, I'm guessing that you can put a single coat on three sheets of 6x8 plywood (both sides) before you ran out. Hopefully, that will give you a mental picture of how much surface one can can cover. (See also: www.westsystem.com/ss/thinning-west-system-epoxy/ « Show Less
1584934
I don't have the can near to hand but ideally you're looking at 70F for 30 minutes to 24 hours for best results. I applied when the weather was roughly 60 nearly 80F during the day during early-mid September, I had a lot of trouble waiting for the coating to cure and if it got moist from the dew at night it took hours more into the next day to 'dry'.I also had trouble mixing the coating to a consistency of a true bedliner, it was much more... textured (lumpy mess) in my case. Lots of lumps no mater how long or well I mixed. I do not believe this was temperature related though.
1922899
I live in Texas and was working at around 85-90 degrees F. I had trouble with fast drying paints drying in/on and clogging up the sprayer. You might want to try clearing most of the poly by spraying water/detergent solution through the sprayer with the second cup. Then, put the spray tip in water/detergent solution and place a damp rag on the open spray head--not the entire sprayer--while you wait. Certainly, the poly can stay in the cup if it is capped. Texas Lady
1396128
http://www.marinetex.com/gluvit.html this should help better than what i can say. I really liked the results. i used it on my fiberglass deck that had some stress cracks in it and I added Evercoat epoxy color agent and I'm happy with how it turned out. I hope you get some good results, this stuff really is nice.
2216411
Hi Barb,I asked my Tech department and they have some good information for you. First off, this Anchorseal is used to seal the ends of logs to help keep them from cracking and splitting while they dry and before they are milled into boards. As others have already said, it's not a finish itself. If your logs are still "green," at some point they will most likely crack even with the Anchorseal. The only thing they could recommend as a finish is an exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450, but they wanted me to warn you that even using that or something like it, the big logs could still crack. Hope that helps! Hi Barb,I asked my Tech department and they have some good information for you. First off, this Anchorseal is used to seal the ends of logs to help keep them from cracking and splitting while they dry and before they are milled into boards. As others have already said, it's not a finish itself. If your logs are still "green," at some point they will most likely crack even with the Anchorseal. The only thing they could recommend as a finish is an exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450, but they wanted me to warn you that even using that or something like it, the... » Read More Hi Barb,I asked my Tech department and they have some good information for you. First off, this Anchorseal is used to seal the ends of logs to help keep them from cracking and splitting while they dry and before they are milled into boards. As others have already said, it's not a finish itself. If your logs are still "green," at some point they will most likely crack even with the Anchorseal. The only thing they could recommend as a finish is an exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450, but they wanted me to warn you that even using that or something like it, the big logs could still crack. Hope that helps! « Show Less
821312
We just bought about 3 weeks ago. So far I see no problems with it. I check it out last night before the big storm and was ok. The insulation seems ok.I was very impressed how thick & hard it was. *(But I do have up on the deck, I have a tarp over it to help shelter it from the elements.)
163362
I would not recommend this for a deck for a few reasons:1. It is very soft, even when cured. It would handle the weather great, but would be destroyed by foot traffic very quickly.2. It is a High Gloss (think glasslike) finish and I would think VERY slippery when wet.3. It is very expensive, and you'd need multiple (8+) coats to build it up.I would check with the manufacturer to see if they have a different product suitable to your needs.
852810
wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally causes any wood finish to fail being exposed to the out doors. wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally... » Read More wood is pores, it traps air, oils,moisture, and such. was it a new top ? or had it been out doors and just re coated with this product. depending on the type of wood. I have found that using just a good clear wood sealer, letting it soak in real good and letting it sit for at least 72 hours or more helps as well as making sure the wood even with out sealer is good and dry before coating. as well even if you coat just the top, it being out side it will draw moisture from the bottom as well. using a good sealer on all areas not being coated with this product also helps. that is what generally causes any wood finish to fail being exposed to the out doors. « Show Less
988837
I used it on a outdoor deck storage box, with no prep, just cleaning it and it came out fine. More than a year and to sign of peeling or anything negative. I love the product.
996698
Yes Maryanne, use the clear Flex Seal. Make sure surface is fully dry, and outdoor temp is above 60 deg F.