Thinking of painting it on the logs interior. Most reviews spoke about using a sprayer. Brushing it on in interior OK? In the process of removing the old clear coat on the logs and was told for any product to be successful the logs must be porous without paint or stain. Before I re-stain, thought this might be a good preventative application. Thinking of painting it on the logs interior. Most reviews spoke about using a sprayer. Brushing it on in interior OK? In the process of removing the old clear coat on the logs and was told for... » Read More Thinking of painting it on the logs interior. Most reviews spoke about using a sprayer. Brushing it on in interior OK? In the process of removing the old clear coat on the logs and was told for any product to be successful the logs must be porous without paint or stain. Before I re-stain, thought this might be a good preventative application. « Show Less
652736
I've used a brush to paint it on freshly sanded hardwood floors before staining and varnishing. It did not leave any residue and the floors looked beautiful when done. I think painting it on is a valid option. I chose this option to make sure I was getting a LOT of the solution soaking in. I felt like spraying would be uneven and might miss spots. Slathering it on with a brush seemed better and after 12 years there has been no sign of termites.
652737
Yes, you need fresh wood to apply Tim-Bor, no stains, no paint, bare wood. Tim-Bor can be sprayed or painted on. Be liberal, follow label directions as to concentration, 10% or 15% solution. Without a moisture meter it's a judgement call. For one application use the 15% concentration. Good luck.
652738
I've never tried brushing it, but I think that would work. Dry wood absorbs it easily. But it leaves a whitish residue on the surface after it dries, so that might hinder staining. That I can't help you with. Try it out first in an out of the way corner.
652739
I spray it on but I do not see why it could not be brushed on and still get results. As long as the logs get saturated with the product it should work.Good luck.
1923238
You really want to hand rub this finish. The oil needs to be rubbed down into the wood, rather than sitting on top as it would if it were sprayed or brushed. For the best finish, hand rub the oil once a day for seven days and really rub it in. I also always lightly run steel wool over the wood between the first and second coats being sure to wipe it down with a soft cloth afterward.
1832492
yes but this is what I preferred. If I got a painted one, I could see it chipping or getting scratched or fading. I could see painted ones hard to clean and with this I plan to use a natural cleanser to keep clean and safe for my grandchild. It does have a gloss on the wood. I like it a lot.
2190845
The wood is all natural and we recommend you to seal it with Semco Wood sealer. I would recommend strongly to go for Semco Wood Sealer In Honey Tone. It is way better than the oil as oil sometimes creates mold if the wood remains wet for a long time in some areas.Thanks
1022379
You need to remove the logs and use only the lava rocks. This is the only way I got rid of the soot which was considerable, even coated my newly stained deck badly which really sucks. Wish I would have realized this before using the logs which instantly turned black upon using them along with soot floating off. I haven't tried different logs since the look of the flames with lava rocks only look great to me and my wife. I had to scrub my deck to get the soot off which wasn't easy. I think the quality of logs is low since I have been using a natural gas fire place in my house, two of them, for 18 years with no sign of soot or the logs turning black.
687901
This thing works great....used it inside though....outside should work good as well..keep it clean and keep on painting
1593356
I only used it for painting the underside of my truck and exhaust. I no longer have the can. Sorry. I would read to see if it can be used on indoor furniture, for instance, to determine if it is indoor friendly.I think other types of spray paint would be more appropriate.
2092966
It all depends on how dry the wood is. I used mine in Portugal on very old, dry wood and it soaked it up like a sponge. The oil dries to a hard finish....it seems that you have to do several coats to fill the pores. Why be stingy, you're going to love the tung oil and want to put it on everything...so buy a bigger bottle.
7593
Upon opening the can, you will see a thick white liquid. It paints onto wood as a thin milky layer, then clears up to a thin waxy layer. After drying, one can see no more white and can see the wood colors and grains. It darkens the wood at the end of a log just a little but just as if you had put clear lacquer or polyurethane. You might say it enriches the end grain if a log. It doesn't affect the underlying wood deeply, only at the surface.
1076978
I used oil base stain and it worked great. Test with spray settings first for better control.
141536
Yeah, you can paint it, it is sanded pretty good too. I just put waterproofing on mine, and it looks great. But o answer your question, it is bare wood that should take paint well
647580
It's stained and looks good the way it is. Natural cedar doesn't usually have this reddish color to it, almost like a pecan. Would be a good idea to spray a non-gloss sealer over it, however.
1671216
I used the ting oil on an old totem pole in a front yard. It seemed to work well to seal the wood. You could thin it to extend the oil, but I would not thin it too much or you might loose some of the protection benefits. If it was my house with natural wood outside I would opt for using it in its thick concentrated form for maximum protection. This will be more expensive but protecting a house is the primary goal. Then when you redcoats in a year or two, you can start using a thined layers as a routine touch up. I only have limited experience with this product but it worked well for me with no toxic rags, mess etc. I used the ting oil on an old totem pole in a front yard. It seemed to work well to seal the wood. You could thin it to extend the oil, but I would not thin it too much or you might loose some of the protection benefits. If it was my house with natural wood outside I would opt for using it in its thick concentrated form for maximum protection. This will be more expensive but protecting a house is the primary goal. Then when you redcoats in a year or two, you can start using a thined layers as a routine touch up. I only have limited experience with this product but it worked well for me with... » Read More I used the ting oil on an old totem pole in a front yard. It seemed to work well to seal the wood. You could thin it to extend the oil, but I would not thin it too much or you might loose some of the protection benefits. If it was my house with natural wood outside I would opt for using it in its thick concentrated form for maximum protection. This will be more expensive but protecting a house is the primary goal. Then when you redcoats in a year or two, you can start using a thined layers as a routine touch up. I only have limited experience with this product but it worked well for me with no toxic rags, mess etc. « Show Less
921842
As Nathan stated, don't stain directly onto a surface coated with Anchor Seal. I use Anchor Seal on ends of logs to slow down the drying of the wood, preventing the logs splitting/cracking at the ends due to rapid moisture loss. The Anchor Seal is slightly "waxy" and most likely won't take a stain. If you sand away the Anchor Seal, the wood beneath may revert to original wood surface and then be able to take a stain. As a wood turner (lathe) I use Anchor Seal to prevent cracking between the time the wood is cut from tree (into logs) and the time I start turning the wood. Could be 3-6 months. As Nathan stated, don't stain directly onto a surface coated with Anchor Seal. I use Anchor Seal on ends of logs to slow down the drying of the wood, preventing the logs splitting/cracking at the ends due to rapid moisture loss. The Anchor Seal is slightly "waxy" and most likely won't take a stain. If you sand away the Anchor Seal, the wood beneath may revert to original wood surface and then be able to take a stain. As a wood turner (lathe) I use Anchor Seal to prevent cracking between the time the wood is cut from tree (into logs) and the time I start turning the wood.... » Read More As Nathan stated, don't stain directly onto a surface coated with Anchor Seal. I use Anchor Seal on ends of logs to slow down the drying of the wood, preventing the logs splitting/cracking at the ends due to rapid moisture loss. The Anchor Seal is slightly "waxy" and most likely won't take a stain. If you sand away the Anchor Seal, the wood beneath may revert to original wood surface and then be able to take a stain. As a wood turner (lathe) I use Anchor Seal to prevent cracking between the time the wood is cut from tree (into logs) and the time I start turning the wood. Could be 3-6 months. « Show Less
1206987
I have only spot cleaned with a barely damp rag. But honestly the stains on the wood didnt come out so as per advice of my dad, I used simple wax stain from hardware store and rubbed into wood twice till smooth. Then let kids play with it. It takes on a different sheen the more they touch it and the stains are hardly noticeable now. You could also lightly sand and then light stain the wood.
554685
The wood does not appear to be treated with anything, however, I have had mine in my kitchen for over a year and see no problems. It has gotten wet, but as long as it is just wiped off appears to have no effect and I see no stains or changes. Suppose you could cover it with a polyurethane once you got it. Very pleased with mine.
299910
We've had ours outdoors in the woods for a year just as it came. Looks great. Cypress has a degree of longevity, but it would probably be sensible to put a stain on it anyway.