How will this do on 19 and 20G steel? I read that ARC welders often burn through and they are too hot. TY
636816
you can do it. Use 1/16 rod and keep amperage low. If this works out try 5/64 rod. I recommend 6013.
636817
Particularly I have proved weld with 75, 80 and 95 amp. and to showed good yield. The tweezer of ruin is something weak and loses contact often.
636818
An experienced welder can do it but on thin steel your better off using GMAW or FCAW
636819
You can't run a long bead you need to use lower setting on the heat and use a quick start and stop method pull out of the puddle quickly I use 3/32 & 1/16 rod 6010 or 6011 will work
1442741
NO, it should only arc when you make contact with the work. Like an arc welder.
1594956
I use a 50 have welded with the welderr at 200 without any issues. It uses the standered dryer plug.
1428367
Im sorry. I do not know what SHOT Welding is?? I use this welder for simple amateur ARC Welding and it seems to work very well. I do notice it works better with thinner welding rods 1/16 inch or 3/32 work best.
1686777
very happy with it. I think a smaller welder, probably a 110v with more taps/infinite settings would be better for the thin stuff
807498
I run mine on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. So nothing else is running while I'm welding and have had no problems.
469953
I don't think you would ever reach the upper limits of the duty cycle on 1/8" steel... I had the welder basically at full output welding structural components on a log splitter with mine. The warning light never once came on-2 minutes on 2 minutes off- maybe for 20 minutes or so.That said- If you are looking for a production welder, don't buy this one. Buy a real one with a real duty cycle. This is a great machine- just stay within the duty cycle and you'll be fine.
713999
Depends on what your welding usually it's fine with the setting on low if it is on high it will burn through easily, and yes if you touch the welding wire to the metal that had the ground clamp on it it will weld without pulling the trigger
521528
I am a long-time beginner (I've wanted to learn to weld for years) and I think the Hobart is an excellent unit. I am not familiar with Longevity and Eastwood units but I do have a Sears Craftsman unit, which is like a soldering gun. I know of other no-name manufacturers of units sold by the likes of Harbor Freight. I'm no welding expert but I do know and study quality equipment. If I didn't buy the Hobart my other choices would have been Miller and Lincoln. I think both have comparable units that are more expensive than the Hobart with no or maybe a few more features.
1686780
Excellent. I have welded 3/8 successfully, but I am a long time experienced welder and know how to make the most of the heat. Welds 1/4" easily. It will blow through the 24 or 22 gauge on highest setting if you're not careful.
438798
The machine is designed to take .025, .030. or .035 diameter wire. It comes with .025 tips but I have always used .030 so I switched to .030 and use shielding gas. If your going to weld heavier material, 3/16 to 1/4 inch then you will probably want to use the .035 tip with flux core wire. I was very surprised by the quality of this machine. It is easily comparable to the more expensive Miller, Hobart or Lincoln welders of comparable amperage. I am totally satisfied with my machine. There is one thing that I found out the hard way, the plastic face on the machine doesn't take well to being left in direct sun light and heat all day and will wrinkle and shrink a bit. Just a word to the wise where you use the machine.
281365
Hello, I put a very heavy welder about 500 pounds and the equipment for welding about anothe 400 pounds and it travels very well!! I take it through soft Soil and sand at times. Works great!!! Well worth the money!!!Chris
564247
I have owned the chicago electric welder and the hot max 100 amp welder. The chicago electric was ok, but itt just quite over a two year period. I think because it did not have a thermal overload switch, I may be wrong. One thing I don't like about the chicago electric and I believe the hot max is there are no relacement parts. Between the two welders, the spec. Sheet favors the hot max, you have a higher duty cycle at different ampes, 60 vs 30. I have had the hot max for, I believe for about a year and as soon as send this email it may brake on me. I hope not, and good luck with your choice
1132221
I have done some welding on 1/4 steel, but not a lot, usually 3/16. But I have not had any problems on the 1/4, just a bit slower. I love this welder, since I can have it set up in my shop, and weld some stuff as it needs, Vs. the stick welder I have that I have to move outside to a 220v outlet. I'm not a good welder by any means, but with a little practice, I can weld really light stuff Vs. burning thru with the stick. The first time I used it, I thought I had made a mistake, since I had a har time welding, but the second day, after reviewing the settings again, I did, in my opinion, rather well. I also bought, quickly after, an auto dark helmet, as the arc is hard to see since it is small.
1452010
The manufacturer's website (which you should check out before purchasing for lots of useful information regarding these welders) http://www.everlastgenerators.com states that it should be capable of 60% duty cycle as full current 250A. This is better than most other welders in its class, but it achieves this by having an always on cooling fan which some people find to be loud. The fan hasn't really bothered me, though.
2278033
Dave: the first day out of the box I cut 200 lf of champion metal roofing. oiled lightly when I put the tool away. next day cut 60 lf. works just great. I let the tool do the work and not force anything. I always oil my tools. as for how long the bit lasts I have yet to ware it out. I think it is a good idea to have a spare on hand just in case when your on a job.
1828230
I've used this with some fairly long standard gauge extension cords with no issues. In response to another post, I bought this specifically to pull out a deep, complex crease in a rear quarter in order to avoid replacing the entire quarter. I was able to maneuver the tool head pretty deeply into the crease and got most/many of the studs to stick fine. The steel at both the contact point and the ground point NEED to be clean. Even prior burn or discoloration seems to hinder the studs ability to stick. You will have to vary the burn time to get them to stick. Too long or too short of a burn time and they won't stick well. It is not a fixed burn time. Hope this helps. I've used this with some fairly long standard gauge extension cords with no issues. In response to another post, I bought this specifically to pull out a deep, complex crease in a rear quarter in order to avoid replacing the entire quarter. I was able to maneuver the tool head pretty deeply into the crease and got most/many of the studs to stick fine. The steel at both the contact point and the ground point NEED to be clean. Even prior burn or discoloration seems to hinder the studs ability to stick. You will have to vary the burn time to get them to stick. Too long or too short of a burn... » Read More I've used this with some fairly long standard gauge extension cords with no issues. In response to another post, I bought this specifically to pull out a deep, complex crease in a rear quarter in order to avoid replacing the entire quarter. I was able to maneuver the tool head pretty deeply into the crease and got most/many of the studs to stick fine. The steel at both the contact point and the ground point NEED to be clean. Even prior burn or discoloration seems to hinder the studs ability to stick. You will have to vary the burn time to get them to stick. Too long or too short of a burn time and they won't stick well. It is not a fixed burn time. Hope this helps. « Show Less