I am having problem loosing blade stud. I use the blade wrench to try to loosen it but it all keep spinning. Any suggestions??
634403
Place the wrench on the stud to determine the direction the direction you need to move it. Then use an old screwdriver against the saw plate to hold the blade as you apply pressure to the wrench. Pushing on the wrench should force the screwdriver shaft against the plate and stop the blade from rotating. Watch out for those saw teeth. I hope your saw works as well as mine, and that I explained this well enough.
634404
hit the wrench hard and very very fast!! that's the old school way to loosen the nuts, before they had arbor locks
634405
One possibility may be to put blade next to some scrap wood to stop it from spinning
634406
Should be a blade lock...Why are you changing the blade anyways?It should be sharp and brand new.
634407
I use a screwdriver agenst the frame of the saw , hooked in the blades tooth , the blade can not turn so the stud can be secured ...
1431708
I just looked at my cutter, and I don't understand how the blade "jams", unless it has been bent; there is nothing for it to hit, or jam against, unless something has changed shape. How long have you had the Stik? You might contact Fiskars. They have been very generous when I've spoken to them. If you need a replacement blade, they should be able to help you, if the movable blade is bent. If the stationary blade is the problem, I'm not sure if it can be replaced; the movable blade is held by one bolt, so I assume it would be an easy replacement.
1428943
I think I know what you mean about the spin issue. If you bought a carbide blade like I did, the problem is that this blade is thnner than the standard blade. When you tighten the bolt against the washer provided, that is intended to rest tight against the carbide blade, the blade will free spin because it is too thin. I had to make a spacer washer that is the correct inside diameterfor the washer provided and I believe I ground it down to be about .008" thick. The point is that tou need to have shim piece added to allow the provided washer to be tight against the blade when the bolt is tightened. This shim washer worked great for me. Try it. I think I know what you mean about the spin issue. If you bought a carbide blade like I did, the problem is that this blade is thnner than the standard blade. When you tighten the bolt against the washer provided, that is intended to rest tight against the carbide blade, the blade will free spin because it is too thin. I had to make a spacer washer that is the correct inside diameterfor the washer provided and I believe I ground it down to be about .008" thick. The point is that tou need to have shim piece added to allow the provided washer to be tight against the blade when the bolt... » Read More I think I know what you mean about the spin issue. If you bought a carbide blade like I did, the problem is that this blade is thnner than the standard blade. When you tighten the bolt against the washer provided, that is intended to rest tight against the carbide blade, the blade will free spin because it is too thin. I had to make a spacer washer that is the correct inside diameterfor the washer provided and I believe I ground it down to be about .008" thick. The point is that tou need to have shim piece added to allow the provided washer to be tight against the blade when the bolt is tightened. This shim washer worked great for me. Try it. « Show Less
711583
There is a "butterfly" nut where the blade is that you can loosen to move the blade out or in for thinner or thicker pealing. Tighten nut when done. I had to adjust mine when mine was new and it made a world of difference.
1505508
Mine too Im on my second saw just for that part. Design flaw hardened medal is needed with that high stress load. Sharp blades help . Icut 2 cords a week with mine t
614712
I haven't experienced that dreaded occurance yet, but it seems you'd have to take the auger/blades out at one end or the other somehow. If you're handy, I'd start by seeing if there is a way in through one end/side of the blade housing or the other, and if there is a belt pulley inside that needs to come off to free-up the axle the blades are on. Be sure to remember where parts come from(maybe draw a picture), so you can put it all back together. Otherwise, it may be a chore for the Toro dealer in your area. Good luck.
478477
On mine, he blade carrier just easily lifts up...you might have some sticky substance under the blade carrier that is acting like glue. I would try a steady upward pull; too much twisting might break the post.
1944199
I had to fiddle a little the first time too so don't feel bad. First, replace the black back plate. The little plastic tab goes in the middle of the retaining wire. Once it is in place, flip out the tab on the blade and hold the blade with this tab. Be careful, those blades are sharp! Try to replace the blade. You will probably need to turn it until it seats fully. Then push the tab back in place.
2232661
Disconnect the wires from the battery and short them together. That will keep the blades from turning. REPEAT...Disconnect from battery FIRST!
456047
Also try a different blade. I only use blades in my unit and never had any problems.
466282
I have had no issues with the blade falling out as long as it is seated correctly. Check by hand when tool is unplugged if blade is tight.
701585
Hi! Yes I found that out too when I got it!! Just pull one of the blades out toward u like the round end of the blade. Do it slowly.
2201143
My son had the same situation, all you have to do is tighten the axel. It gets loose after prolonged use. I hope we were able to help.
359838
take blade cover off and loosen blade tighting screws ∨ nuts, most company sites have access to instructions for doing these things
845495
I have the same problem with mine. The pentagon hole in the crank handle is slightly too big and/or the metal that the pentagon shaft is made out of is too soft. When you turn the crank, it slips forward on the shaft causing the handle to get stuck and slowly stripping the shaft until the grinder is no longer useable. It took about 3 months in my case.
1547187
There should be a wrench that came with it, usually slide into the back of the saw, there is a holder for it there, make sure the saw is unplugged and unscrew the bolt in the center, using something like a piece of wood to keep the blade from rotating while unscrewing the bolt
1839241
Over time the blade will bend in the box due to the way it rests, sometimes it is a factory issue, it just comes out bent, and to fix it is a bit time consuming but simple, level it our on a flat hard surface like a desk, have the curvature aimedo down toward the desk and set heavy objects on the blade, give it some time, about a day, and the blade should have straightened enough for you to bend it in the reverse direction to get it next to perfect