how do you know what pressure switch is right for your well? I got a 30/60 the pump run steady when water is turned on out side but when waters on inside the pump will not run steady but idle up and down constantly how do you know what pressure switch is right for your well? I got a 30/60 the pump run steady when water is turned on out side but when waters on inside the pump will not run steady but idle up... » Read More how do you know what pressure switch is right for your well? I got a 30/60 the pump run steady when water is turned on out side but when waters on inside the pump will not run steady but idle up and down constantly « Show Less
649112
It should not matter where you turn the water on. The control turns the well pump on at 30psi and then shuts off at 50 or 60psidepending on the control setting. Depending how much water is running the pressure switch will cycle on and off which is normal.
649113
Probably have this fixed by now. I was burning out pressure switches because (I later found out) my pressure tank bladder had a hole in it due to a lightening strike. So the pump would cycle too much. I also upgraded the pressure switch to a unit with better contact material, there are various grades of switch. Also, the pressure tank bladder is to have the same pressure in it as your normal house water pressure, in that case for you it would be 60 PSI of air. Sounds like you have water on the air side of your pressure bladder.
649114
Depends on your piping system. Most newer house systems use the 60 psi cutoff. Running steady just means you are using all the water the well pump can pump. Evidently you should check to see how many sprinklers/faucets are in use at once and reduce the volume needed. When it cycles up and down the unit is working properly and the pump is operating within it's capacity.In short - the press up and bleed down cycle for your well tank is normal. The lack of it when running water outside is likely a function of not enough volume capacity in your well pump for the demand you are placing on it. Depends on your piping system. Most newer house systems use the 60 psi cutoff. Running steady just means you are using all the water the well pump can pump. Evidently you should check to see how many sprinklers/faucets are in use at once and reduce the volume needed. When it cycles up and down the unit is working properly and the pump is operating within it's capacity.In short - the press up and bleed down cycle for your well tank is normal. The lack of it when running water outside is likely a function of not enough volume capacity in your well pump for the demand you are... » Read More Depends on your piping system. Most newer house systems use the 60 psi cutoff. Running steady just means you are using all the water the well pump can pump. Evidently you should check to see how many sprinklers/faucets are in use at once and reduce the volume needed. When it cycles up and down the unit is working properly and the pump is operating within it's capacity.In short - the press up and bleed down cycle for your well tank is normal. The lack of it when running water outside is likely a function of not enough volume capacity in your well pump for the demand you are placing on it. « Show Less
649115
What size is your pressure tank? That could be part of the problem, smaller tanks sometimes fill quickly and cycle on and off more than larger tanks. Also usually the pressure switch is set for a 20psi differential not 30psi. You also may have a leak in the tank or the "empty"pressure is not set right. To set that empty the system and set the pressure 2psi less than the start up pressure. Hope some of this helps
649116
My husband says it sounds like your pressure tank is waterlogged. Do you have a bladder tank or galvanized?
649117
It may not be the switch. You may have a leak somewhere or the bladder in your tank may be damaged. If you don't have a tank that the pump pumps into, I would get one, that should solve your inconsistent pressure problem. Also, if it is an older well, the point on the bottom of the pipe in the well, where it enters the aqua-fore may be clogged with minerals (if so, you will need a new well dug). The switch is a very economical place to start though. Good Luck!
649118
Sorry for the delay, wanted to ask my husband because he is the well/pump man, but he got in late and I forgot. I'll try to remember to ask tonight. Is this on a well? What does your well produce? Are you pumping from a storage tank?
649119
Sounds like you need to check the air pressure in your pressure tank/system - most likely the problem - not the pressure switch. The old tanks get waterlogged -not enough air space so need to be drained back - the new bladder tanks seep pressure and need to checked/charged just like a low tire. Hope this helps
649120
Try to track down how did the original well install and ask them. That's the best route.O call a local well contractor or folks who service them in your area, some of the plumbing companies, they should be able to help possibly..No use getting into the math of pump lift, total dynamic head, suction lift, DP/friction loss, etc., easier to ask one of the above mentionedcontractors.Regards, Bill M.
1946191
Original switch rusted, store had on off switches 20/40 30/50 40/60. Our well was about 150 feet deep and we selected a 30/50 and a new pressure gauge,it works fine. We emptied our blue water tank with bladder and with tire pump pressurized tank with air to two pounds below our on number (30-2=28) I do not know max pressure of pump is but very deep we'll would may not reach a high pressure shut off pressure. If you want or need to go up or down but new switch and repressurize empty tank on pressure minus two. Switch about $30
369476
System needs between 20-30 psi to be effective. Most "normal" houses have a water pressure of 40psi or better, which is why this system comes with a regulator. A low pressure well should operate at or slightly above 30 psi, so it should work perfectly fine.
1305906
I am not familiar with the model numbers but if you have either a submersible or shallow well pump plus a pressure tank you should be able to install this switch on your pressure tank to turn the pump off and on with the rise and fall of the pressure. Normally it does not depend on the model of pump you have. I am assuming the pump is for household use and that you are using a 220 volt single phase line. Normally such a pump would be at least 1/2 hp and no more than 1 1/2 hp. So unless you have some kind of commercial unit for a commercial application it should work.
15136
yes, this is a direct pump, you will need the pressure tank along with a pressure switch, how a system works is that when the pump is running and all the pipes are off, pressure builds up in the line and the pressure tank together, at about 50 or 60 psi (off pressure) the pressure switch turns off the pump. The pressure tank then maintains a little pressure to supply the house pipes while the pump is off, so when you turn on the pipes and the pressure goes back down to 30 or 40 psi, the pressure switch turns on the pump again to supply the house...... if there is no pressure tank or switch the pump will run constantly damaging your plumbing and may burn up the pump... yes, this is a direct pump, you will need the pressure tank along with a pressure switch, how a system works is that when the pump is running and all the pipes are off, pressure builds up in the line and the pressure tank together, at about 50 or 60 psi (off pressure) the pressure switch turns off the pump. The pressure tank then maintains a little pressure to supply the house pipes while the pump is off, so when you turn on the pipes and the pressure goes back down to 30 or 40 psi, the pressure switch turns on the pump again to supply the house...... if there is no pressure tank or switch... » Read More yes, this is a direct pump, you will need the pressure tank along with a pressure switch, how a system works is that when the pump is running and all the pipes are off, pressure builds up in the line and the pressure tank together, at about 50 or 60 psi (off pressure) the pressure switch turns off the pump. The pressure tank then maintains a little pressure to supply the house pipes while the pump is off, so when you turn on the pipes and the pressure goes back down to 30 or 40 psi, the pressure switch turns on the pump again to supply the house...... if there is no pressure tank or switch the pump will run constantly damaging your plumbing and may burn up the pump... « Show Less
832050
The pump is meant to be submerged within a sump pit or similar. As water rises, the side-switch float rises eventually activating the pump. The switch float has a guard attached (metal loop) to keep it from hanging up against the side of the sump pit. (My previous pump had an unguarded float switch. The switch eventually jammed against the side of the pit and prevented the pump from operating. My basement flooded as a result.
1707185
My pump in in the 2000 gph range, with the waterfall 3 or so feet above the pump (which worked quite well) - however, my pond is over 600 gallons. Not sure how well a pump that size will work with a smaller pond as the amount of water in the "plumbing flow" may be significant compared to the pond (depending on how yours is set up). I had a smaller (<100 gallon) water feature where I had to add water once the pump starts (to replace the volume of water in the waterfall and running down the rocks) and once the pump stops, the water then overflows the pond. As long as the water flow was constant, once filled, it ran great. My pump in in the 2000 gph range, with the waterfall 3 or so feet above the pump (which worked quite well) - however, my pond is over 600 gallons. Not sure how well a pump that size will work with a smaller pond as the amount of water in the "plumbing flow" may be significant compared to the pond (depending on how yours is set up). I had a smaller (<100 gallon) water feature where I had to add water once the pump starts (to replace the volume of water in the waterfall and running down the rocks) and once the pump stops, the water then overflows the pond. As long as the water... » Read More My pump in in the 2000 gph range, with the waterfall 3 or so feet above the pump (which worked quite well) - however, my pond is over 600 gallons. Not sure how well a pump that size will work with a smaller pond as the amount of water in the "plumbing flow" may be significant compared to the pond (depending on how yours is set up). I had a smaller (<100 gallon) water feature where I had to add water once the pump starts (to replace the volume of water in the waterfall and running down the rocks) and once the pump stops, the water then overflows the pond. As long as the water flow was constant, once filled, it ran great. « Show Less
1282523
The on off switch is inside the float..... If the float is not floating in a vertical position it will allow pump to run. When water level is low and float is at bottom of tank (or other water holder.) The foat asit touches bottom will fall into a horizontal position and the switch in the float will stop pump from running.......this is true if float switch is wired correcty to the pump. I belive a diagram coms with the float package. v.
1842515
I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to do. This float switch is designed to start the pump when water level gets too high and shuts off the pump when the level gets below the bottom float when installed in the upright position. I don't know the size or location of your pond but if outside and wind is a factor, you may have to install the float switch in a stilling well.
1570776
When i had mine installed the well man explained how the whole thing worked but that was a while back and I've forgot. He did set the PSI for a Max of 70 on mine. I do remember him saying something about setting it too high also. You can probably call your well man and he can explain it. Hope this helps.
600377
My setup is a T connector added to the outlet side of the pump. One end of the T runs to the pressure tank, while the other end connects to the house main water line. The best part is this pump has a built-in pressure switch, so it turns on and off only when the pressure is low on the tank.
67959
Hello Thomas, Thank you for your inquiry. This is what we recommend. We generally recommend that on average, you turn over your aquarium volume four times per hour. This means that if you have a 30 gallon tank, you need a pump and filter with flow rates of around 120 gph. so if your tank is 120 gallons then a 480 gph. This is a suggestion of course. We hope that you have found this answer helpful. Thank you, Gabriela
888119
Did you try adjusting the switch shut-off screw on the end of the pump. This adjusts the pressure the pump will maintain. My guess is it needs to be turned clockwise if this is the problem. There should be a manual with the unit that has troubleshooting guide.
2155682
It should be 2 psi below what your pump is rated for. If you have a pump that is 30-50, it will kick on at 30 PSI and shut off at 50 PSI so you would want the tank pressure to be 28 psi. If you have a 40-60 pump, you would want the tank to be 38 psi. Hope this helps.
462065
I bought a Ridgid TP-250 to replace a Pressure start pump which turned on only if the water was more than 2 inches deep. I am going to test my New Ridgid TP-250 this week to make sure it turns on as soon as I plug it in and I will check to see how low the water goes down to.I purchase a different pump last year but then I found out it only pumps down to 1/4 inch even thought the box said 1/8.
987194
MY "knee jerk" answer is that there is an "open" somewhere in the line that this pump serves. The pump is set to deliver a constant "flow" or "pressure".Also check the low voltage transformer to check that it is working properly. After you check that you may be looking at a new pump.
1704731
Line vs. load- I usually use the center two screws as load and the outer two as line in. You are getting power to the pump or it wouldn't be working. Try backing the cut out control nut out to reduce pressure "the one with the short spring located off center". If all else fails remove the switch and unscrew the backing plate, remove the diaphragm. You can test the switch manually by pressing on the center of the mechanism with your thumbs. Also while you have it apart look through the inlet pipe. The actual water inlet hole is quite small and can become clogged. Reassembly doesn't require any kind of sealant. Line vs. load- I usually use the center two screws as load and the outer two as line in. You are getting power to the pump or it wouldn't be working. Try backing the cut out control nut out to reduce pressure "the one with the short spring located off center". If all else fails remove the switch and unscrew the backing plate, remove the diaphragm. You can test the switch manually by pressing on the center of the mechanism with your thumbs. Also while you have it apart look through the inlet pipe. The actual water inlet hole is quite small and can become clogged. Reassembly doesn't... » Read More Line vs. load- I usually use the center two screws as load and the outer two as line in. You are getting power to the pump or it wouldn't be working. Try backing the cut out control nut out to reduce pressure "the one with the short spring located off center". If all else fails remove the switch and unscrew the backing plate, remove the diaphragm. You can test the switch manually by pressing on the center of the mechanism with your thumbs. Also while you have it apart look through the inlet pipe. The actual water inlet hole is quite small and can become clogged. Reassembly doesn't require any kind of sealant. « Show Less