Do the relays generate significant heat if they are being used to control 10A at 250VAC? I'm only planning on controlling about 1.5A at 120V, but I was curious as to whether a heat sink would be needed at the higher amperages? Do the relays generate significant heat if they are being used to control 10A at 250VAC? I'm only planning on controlling about 1.5A at 120V, but I was curious as to whether a heat sink would... » Read More Do the relays generate significant heat if they are being used to control 10A at 250VAC? I'm only planning on controlling about 1.5A at 120V, but I was curious as to whether a heat sink would be needed at the higher amperages? « Show Less
627798
Relays do not generate heat based on load (unlike as transistors or solid state relays, which do) so heat sinks would be ineffective. Overloaded relays fail due to electrical arcing at the contacts, which sometimes causes them to weld and get stuck - this is why the rating should never be exceeded. Also, keep in mind this is the rating for the relay component only - I personally would avoid putting a full 10 Amps through the small screw-terminals and PCB traces of this board.
627799
Looking at the board, I do no think this would be an issue. Maybe of the are all on at the same time. And there is no place for a head sink - I think you would need to have are cooling.
786595
shouldn't need a relay. however with the floor heating first question is it under tile or carpet with this type generally you best use with a controller that has a probe in the floor material so that it doesn't get too hot to touch. this controller is very accurate at controlling room ambient temp and silent.
1152843
This is strange. I didn't experience any exceptional heat. What voltage are you using. They are supposed to be fed by 12 Volt.
1958976
10 amps should be ok but I would use a relay just to be safe. It would also save on the life of the relays in the remote and you will be worry free for years.
477731
The PID will vary the watts/time sent to the heater to keep the temperature at its set point. This means it is an on off type of control. It will maintain the temperature very accurately. A Solid State Relay is just a configuration of Triacs switching the AC power on and off. They do however switch at the zero crossing of the AC cycle and are silent. If switching 240V in the United States, I suggest you use TWO SSRs, one for each line so the heater will not have voltage on it at all times. Just connect the control inputs of the two SSRs in parallel to the output of the PID controller. I also suggest heat sinks for the SSRs as well. The PID will vary the watts/time sent to the heater to keep the temperature at its set point. This means it is an on off type of control. It will maintain the temperature very accurately. A Solid State Relay is just a configuration of Triacs switching the AC power on and off. They do however switch at the zero crossing of the AC cycle and are silent. If switching 240V in the United States, I suggest you use TWO SSRs, one for each line so the heater will not have voltage on it at all times. Just connect the control inputs of the two SSRs in parallel to the output of the PID controller.... » Read More The PID will vary the watts/time sent to the heater to keep the temperature at its set point. This means it is an on off type of control. It will maintain the temperature very accurately. A Solid State Relay is just a configuration of Triacs switching the AC power on and off. They do however switch at the zero crossing of the AC cycle and are silent. If switching 240V in the United States, I suggest you use TWO SSRs, one for each line so the heater will not have voltage on it at all times. Just connect the control inputs of the two SSRs in parallel to the output of the PID controller. I also suggest heat sinks for the SSRs as well. « Show Less
290670
Check in Youtube for STC 1000 temp controller. A lot videos that can help you with your project. Also use online tools like: http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter to help you with the load. Learn about calibration on offset on temperature ( set for more than 1 degree) to prevent to many ON/OFF. Good luck. Consult with electrician about safety and correct fuse. 110 AC higher than 12 vdc on a wet area/ water is a killer.
1842236
In a word, yes. A simple setup with your circuit connected to the relay. Just keep in mind the maximum amps that the relay can handle for AC/ DC and your circuit must supply its own power.
1635820
I have these lights and they are awesome. I haven't had any issues but I did not use the relay. Power source, switch, lights. It has worked like that all summer and I have two of them hooked up to the same switch. I did use a 30 amp toggle switch.
1343122
Mine burnt up or froze on the first test when used with an ac induction motor on a dust collector. The collector required a dedicated 15 A breaker. I thought the Additional 25 A rating would be plenty. I had to buy a crydom brand to get it to work. You are either looking for a relay that will handle a resistive load like a heater or an inductive load like a ac motor. This is not the relay for a motor.
1343123
I use one of these to switch my 240v AC since it doesn't have a temperature sensor on it. Works great, but be cautious about how much power you draw through it. Without the additional heatsink (sold separately of course) it can get hot enough to begin melting the plastic casing around it. I thought I was well within the limits without a heatsink but after a year noticed some slight deformation of the plastic. Doesn't hurt to be safe and get the additional heatsink.
731182
If I understand your question there are a couple of ways to do this. Since the timer is going to power the relay there will be no issue with amperage draw. The relay doesn't draw appreciable current, it's just a relay. One way to proceed is to install the timer "upstream" of the lighted switch. In this approach you wire the timer into your 12 volt system (remember a fuse or breaker and check the ampacity of the wire) your timer becomes the source of power to the lighted switch and in turn the relay. Of course the heavy load that your relay controls remains wired as it always has been. Should you wish to shut down the heater for a long time you can simply turn off the lighted switch and ignore the timer. A second approach would be to remove the lighted switch entirely and simply use the timer as the power source for your relay. Again just for the switching, not for the load. These timers can be programed but they also have a manual function so you can over ride the programming and turn your heater on manually should you choose.
1178888
I am not an electrician but YES it for use in 12v systems as in a car. It is a timer relay that is in a low amp circuit to switch on and off the voltage to what ever needs the power. I am using mine to switch off and on a 12v low amp very small fan to keep air flowing over a PMD(Fuel supply Driver) in a diesel truck that is subject to over heating when engine is shut off. Check the amount of amperage that what ever circuit you are hooking it up to to see if it exceeds 5 amps. There are no instructions with it but I found out how to wire it by doing a google search. That took some time and head scratching.
875513
1-Yes the relay switch is controlled by 120 volt and is separate from the switch sides.2-Yes the switch sides are independent from the relay power side meaning I can control a 12 volt item using 120 power to the relay.3- Is there 2 switch sides? Meaning can I send 120volt into relay switch side and switch 2 separate items on and off like a 12 volt and 120 volt independent but with same relay With the option of normally closed.
2214180
There is no DC amperage rating on the relay. At 120v it is rated 12 Full load amps and 60 Locked rotor amps. At 277v it is rated 6 Full load amps and 35 Locked rotor amps. I am using mine to control a 24v. 40va transformer and it has been working fine since September.
1955409
I have five 100 watt panels now, wired together with MC4 split connectors and running 25 feet to my charge controller. My panels have a working voltage of 18.5V. That gives me 5.5 amp per panel in direct sun. In total I get 27 - 28 amps on a clear day. I have no problem with voltage drop but I am now max'd out on my 30 amp charge controller and the 10 guage wire. If you have a larger system than that you will need heavier wire, unless your panels operate at a higher voltage, wich would lower your amps. As long as you are under 30 amp this wire works great. I hope this helps. Dan
1130336
Hello. I used mine for a 12V system. I am looking at one of mine that I haven't used yet right now.. there is no rating on it at all! Strange! The terminals on the end are not very big, like for a smaller gauge of wire that would be safe for a relay application but not large enough for 110 house wire. It's actually made pretty nice. So..I'm sorry that I am not much more help. Good luck
1268295
This is a relay. The relay is powered by 120VAC, but the contacts of the switch are completely isolated from that 120 VAC, so that you may run almost anything off it, including low voltage devices. I use several of these to control low voltage devices and it works fine.