In replacing this upper intake what is the possibility of getting antifreez inside the motor. I know to change the oil after this procedure .
612196
Just suck out about a half gallon of antifreeze with a suction gun more if you feel the need. A cheap suction gun is faster and easier than trying to get that radiator drain open on late model GM cars. Do this first and very little coolant will be in the intake if any. When finished refill the radiator before starting the engine and be sure to open the bleeder on the thermostat housing to bleed air out of the system after refilling the radiator . Have the engine running during the bleeding.
612197
yes, you could contaminate the oil with antifreeze during the manifold operation.
612198
Well there you go there's nothing more to say. Change the oil afterward, then check it again after a few dozen miles or less to see if it looks contaminated and needs changed again. "IF" the old oil already looked contaminated, some will save a few bucks by putting in the cheapest oil they can find just to get some circulating around before changing the oil again.
612199
This is better than what the factory came up with. The gasket is built into the manifold so it is not sitting on top of the intake. Replaced mine and no more leaking. Love it!
612200
Wont hurt anything I was driving for a year with it leaking water into the oil seems the oil is so hot it steams the water out of the oil. I wouldnt go out of my way to put extra coolant in the oil and why dont you drain the coolant first. Its at the top of the engine prb drained down lower. I saw no coolant in mine and like you say change the oil. I just traded my 2001 Impala 118K mi for a 2013 Altima I am tired of fixing stuff. Everything was about to go in that car. Tranny was next.
612201
Tony, If you just drain about 1/2 gal you will not get any antifreeze in the engine.
612202
Generally, you change this manifold because it has failed near the EGR tube and filled the motor with antifreeze. With a proper drain you may only get a very small amount if this was not the case. Wipe out any that leaks. Change oil before running and again in a 100 miles.
612203
Hi: you need to drain the coolant when you replace the upper intake. You won't get any coolant in the motor, providing the old plastic upper intake hasn't already cracked and put coolant into the motor. Once the coolant is drained, no additional coolant will go into the engine. This is an excellent kit. Make sure to install the new EGR orifice tube. Once you do that, you'll never have to do this job again.
1483543
Yes, there should be no water going to the plumbing for the motor when you replace it. I needed to use tools to help loosen the old and tighten the new motors. dm
843952
David--I have a '95 Olds that I replaced motor on---I DID NOT have to remove regulator assembly---I am going to see if I can attach a link to a youtube video that I was lucky enough to find that was my saving grace. Don't know if you have same car but video happened to be exact car I have----https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cz-lJhHx1pk. Hopefully you can use this link and it will answer your questions----I think I may have had to get different bolts---been a couple years since I replaced it--but works great!!! Hope it works for you
1691043
No, for T/A hood you will need to use the older 05-10 5.7L cold air intake kit. You may also need to change your coolant reservoir. Thank you for shopping with us.
165557
Yes. The orange you can see on the bottom of intake is the gasket. Better get a lower intake gasket and replace it too since engine is torn down cause its probly bad.
1060968
Ford did a great job of designing those fuel systems! It boils down to laziness. That reservoir was meant to be a switch for dual-tank vehicles (ranger and F series) instead of redesigning the system, they changed the switch to a filter. The replacement units will fit in place of what you have now. It CANNOT be opened and there is no filter inside. The filter caused a lot if problems so it was omitted. This reservoir is in place so the low-pressure pump on the tank can pump fuel to it and then the high-pressure pump on the rail can suck the fuel from that to the filter then the fuel rail. Again, not the best design. This part will fit your 86. Just remember to depressurize the fuel system and wear safety goggles. Ask me how I figured out that little gem of knowledge!
239317
It could be that the you have the wrong (too heavy/thick) oil in it for cold weather. That would make it tough to turn the engine over, especially in real cold weather. Try changing the oil and replacing it with 5W30. Any good (preferably synthetic) oil will do. The manual says you can use a heavy weight oil (SAE 30) in warm weather (above 40 deg F), but when it is cold out you need 5W30 or (synthetic only) 0W30 because those flow better.
1421601
I bought one of these carbs, bolted it on and it has worked great. Didn't make one adjustment. Sounds to me like you have a issue with fuel maybe getting to the carb. Normally what was thought to be too much fuel ends up being the exact opposite. Try taking the gas cap off and starting the machine. Maybe vapor lock? Check fuel filter if there is one, that it is not clogged. Collapsed fuel line? Is the bowl on the carb full of gas when the machine shuts off? Oh and to answer your question, the screw is most likely a idle air screw that can be adjusted to set idle speeds on the carb.
1742224
over the new metal air intake that you install on your air filter. it makes the flexible hose fit snug. also i recommend going over your spark plugs or anything you plan on getting wet woth dialectric grease.
1792700
I'd leave the gas in, and add sta-bil. Haven't got my Durostar yet, but I assume there's a clamp at an inline filter and carburetor you could undo.
227662
Google it or xall themanufacturer.... as far as oil I'm certain you will need the oil ..... Andit's possible the seals are ruined anyway
748614
Sounds like a head gasket to me. I can't think of any other place where oil and coolant passages run next to each other.Has the engine always had antifreeze in it? Or has someone run it for a time with just plain water?
461655
Would luv to help but just don't know. Maybe you can contact the seller; he should have an interchange manual. Main thing I do know is I'll never own another Husky though. Mine had 64 hours when the spindle went out and they laughed at me. Once I tore it down, I learned the upper bearing is a sealed unit. When you grease the spindle, you're only greasing the lower one. The top one burned up and seized. They looked at under warranty because of noise. They said they don't warrant noises, just broken parts. Two weeks later (and warranty ran out one week earlier), it went out and I found two weak idlers that I changed at the same time. Again, wish I could help you.
1539223
Mine came with everything needed except the upper intake gasket. You might be able to get by without it but why risk it for less than 20 dollars.
260443
You need to check your owner's manual....mine specifically said in it to use that coolant....hope this helps.
5157
It sounds like you may need a new motor seal oring. Unfortunately this is not a part that we carry separately.
149572
mine did the same thing. their is oil from the motor that drips on the rubber drive wheel. to keep it clean of oil put a 6in block under the front when its parked and sitting so the oil runs toward the back and away from that drive wheel. it will grip while running after that even if it drips on it. i had taken and split the front and back of the snow thrower as to the manual and wiped and cleaned the all oil and sanded the drive wheel the first week i had it. it did not slip since. and with the block under the front no more problems. the first snow thrower went back with a locked up motor. starter could not start it with so much compression buildup. but that a whole dif problem. mine did the same thing. their is oil from the motor that drips on the rubber drive wheel. to keep it clean of oil put a 6in block under the front when its parked and sitting so the oil runs toward the back and away from that drive wheel. it will grip while running after that even if it drips on it. i had taken and split the front and back of the snow thrower as to the manual and wiped and cleaned the all oil and sanded the drive wheel the first week i had it. it did not slip since. and with the block under the front no more problems. the first snow thrower went back with a locked up motor.... » Read More mine did the same thing. their is oil from the motor that drips on the rubber drive wheel. to keep it clean of oil put a 6in block under the front when its parked and sitting so the oil runs toward the back and away from that drive wheel. it will grip while running after that even if it drips on it. i had taken and split the front and back of the snow thrower as to the manual and wiped and cleaned the all oil and sanded the drive wheel the first week i had it. it did not slip since. and with the block under the front no more problems. the first snow thrower went back with a locked up motor. starter could not start it with so much compression buildup. but that a whole dif problem. « Show Less