I read 55 mAs on my car battery draw (0.05 A) and I want to use peak hold to find max drain..but I get zero reading (0.00A) in P mode..???
639098
I think you mean to use the jaw to do mesuring . Because the meter can measure so small current with its jaw. so you need put the meter in the exactly the same spot, the same meter device orientation before and after the current flow, or the small amount of position (or orientation) caused error will confuse you a lot. This a liittle tricky, the jaw must put in cable to do zero calibrating without the current you want mesuring flowing through, other current may flow through, but you zero them out. first, do you hook the jaw with positive end cable or negative end cable ? both will do , but one is more dangerous to measure than the other. Put jaw on cable make sure the current you want measure is not flowing through , then press zero button , the reading will be zero , then don't moving the meter at all , let the current flow, you will get the the current reading. Also try not to move cables or metal object arund the measuring spot of calbe when mesuring , those will cause reading change too. The key point , jaw is put on cable first, don't change the position, and orientaion of the meter device between calibrating zero and mesuring. also do not change other calbe position or move metal object around the measuring spot when doing mesuring. Need watch the arrow mark (flow direction) on the jaw to give you the positive value reading . If reversed, remember the -0.05 amp is smaller the -0.03 amp and you will get max value as -0.03amp , but not the actual value -0.05amp ,and most time you may get the wrong value which is closest the "zero". Some meter can record the max digital value no matter the positive or negative range , but this meter only record the real max one.----in negative rang, it will be the one closest to zero.
317968
How do I find out what is wrong with this battery? I did not know that you aren't supposed to use the regular battery tenders on these kind of batteries and I left it charging for a couple of days and now it is beyond dead. So if the tender didn't kill it, apparently (also read just now in the questions section) if it drops below 8% charge it is no longer anything but a paperweight? So tell me now if I should just go out and buy a new battery after wasting my money on the 1 ride I got out of this battery.
1651791
I think what you are seeing is normal. A good battery will have an open circuit voltage of 12 volts or higher. when you turn the load switch The voltage drops proportionately to the battery's performance. A battery capable of 200 Cold Cranking amps will have a voltage of 10.2 volts, A battery capable of 1000 CCA will hold 11.2 volts with this load tester. If the needle drops but holds lower than 10.2 volts it means the battery is performing at lower than 200 CCA. That may be fine it you live where it is warm and you have a small engine. A battery is bad if it doesn't have a 12 volt open circuit voltage, The needle drops steadily when you turn the load switch, and it won't consistently start your car. I think what you are seeing is normal. A good battery will have an open circuit voltage of 12 volts or higher. when you turn the load switch The voltage drops proportionately to the battery's performance. A battery capable of 200 Cold Cranking amps will have a voltage of 10.2 volts, A battery capable of 1000 CCA will hold 11.2 volts with this load tester. If the needle drops but holds lower than 10.2 volts it means the battery is performing at lower than 200 CCA. That may be fine it you live where it is warm and you have a small engine. A battery is bad if it doesn't have a 12 volt open... » Read More I think what you are seeing is normal. A good battery will have an open circuit voltage of 12 volts or higher. when you turn the load switch The voltage drops proportionately to the battery's performance. A battery capable of 200 Cold Cranking amps will have a voltage of 10.2 volts, A battery capable of 1000 CCA will hold 11.2 volts with this load tester. If the needle drops but holds lower than 10.2 volts it means the battery is performing at lower than 200 CCA. That may be fine it you live where it is warm and you have a small engine. A battery is bad if it doesn't have a 12 volt open circuit voltage, The needle drops steadily when you turn the load switch, and it won't consistently start your car. « Show Less
1966159
The 100% really means nothing when read from the meter. Battery capacity isn't measured like that. A full battery is 12.7V with no load attached, and no external charging applied. You drive the voltage above this to help reverse the chemical process, and get the sulfates detached from the plates by utilizing as much potential as possible.
1404602
On the Aqua Rite control panel, press diagnostic button 3 times. A new amp cell reads 5 +. My cell was down in the 0 to 1 range. The ppm salt was also falling.
136642
I highly suggest you check the output voltage. This has no built-in display, and you should not assume it is the voltage you want when you take it out of the anti-static bag. As you adjust the output voltage, the meter reading will increase when turning the pot in the direction that increases the voltage. Make a note of the direction when you first adjust it. It doesn't jump back to max. It goes to max or min and stays there if you keep cranking on the screw.
928275
Sherman, Sorry I can't answer your question with I have done it answer. I have used this unit very little since I purchased it, and it was just to slow charge a new battery. My thought however, would be that the needle should rest in the "Start Position" when that dial selection is made. Meaning you are requesting full output amperage. There other factors that could cause the amp gauge to read inaccurately; Shorted internal battert cells, battery present state of charge, incorrect or bad connection. I would contact schmacher technical support to get an answer.
18691
OldAmazonian says:~{Gadgets like this can typically be kept topped up with a jumper from the car's lighter socket to the gadget's lighter socket. The better cords for the purpose have fuses in their plugs. The car's own voltage regulator maintains adequate level for intermittently charging the sealed lead acid battery without damage.}~While this more than likely should work, I'd let someone else try it before trying it on my own unit. Unless I tore it appart an investigated how things are wired inside and did some actual electrical measuring, I'd not try it unlesss I was willing to chance that something might get toasted. OldAmazonian says:~{Gadgets like this can typically be kept topped up with a jumper from the car's lighter socket to the gadget's lighter socket. The better cords for the purpose have fuses in their plugs. The car's own voltage regulator maintains adequate level for intermittently charging the sealed lead acid battery without damage.}~While this more than likely should work, I'd let someone else try it before trying it on my own unit. Unless I tore it appart an investigated how things are wired inside and did some actual electrical measuring, I'd not try it unlesss I was... » Read More OldAmazonian says:~{Gadgets like this can typically be kept topped up with a jumper from the car's lighter socket to the gadget's lighter socket. The better cords for the purpose have fuses in their plugs. The car's own voltage regulator maintains adequate level for intermittently charging the sealed lead acid battery without damage.}~While this more than likely should work, I'd let someone else try it before trying it on my own unit. Unless I tore it appart an investigated how things are wired inside and did some actual electrical measuring, I'd not try it unlesss I was willing to chance that something might get toasted. « Show Less
1931507
I keep mine on a Schumacher Smart Charger 24/7 and its been sitting for over a year on that charger. Used it as a battery backup system in a simulated "black out" scenario last weekend. Ran 5 light bulbs, a HAM radio, and charged electronic devices off of it. Pulled very little voltage and after running it for hours the monitor I use still showed an full charge. All that to say, the battery seems to be holding at peak efficiency.
1417771
Actually, with what these pull. You could leave it plugged in for years. Matter fact, your battery is more likely to drain of natural drain before this takes anything out of it. I own a battery terminal with a LED voltage display and I leave my race car untouched for a year or two and it doesn't drain it a bit. BTD048 Caliber Positive Battery Terminal Post with Digital Voltage Meter Display accepts (2) 8Ga Inputs, (1) 4Ga Input, (1) 0Ga Input
1674784
I remember researching this before. The manufacturer won't say exactly. Read the forums on nPower. I might be able to figure it out with my multimeter when I get home. I thought theoretically, you could figure it out with an equation. it was enough to start my v6 2.1L engine. The inverter to ac isn't much. If my calc is right, 400W at 120V is only 3.3A on AC, but you can't expect much from a 12v battery. I thought dc was supposed to be infiinite, but I suppose you're looking for cranking amps. Overall, I was very pleased with how the nPower performed. I went a couple of months before finally diagnosing my car battery. The nPower got a fairly large engine through a cold Wisconsin winter with a bad cell in a relatively small car battery.
1651789
I will try my best to help you with your question. First the batteries need to be fully charged overnight. Next they should not be connected to any equipment in any way including ground. Next follow all the instructions for the testing procedure. When doing the test which is a very short time period as indicated in the instructions you will get the reading on the meter and it will change the longer you keep the load switch engaged, it will also get hot in the tester and smell also. This is normal as the tester is putting a 100 amp load on the battery and determines how long the battery can maintain its voltage. This is why you should not hold the load switch longer than the specified time. Use a watch to time the length of time that you keep the load switch pressed and keep an eye on the meter reading. If you have followed all the instructions to the letter and you still get a low reading I would take the new battery to a place like NAPA or Auto Zone and have it tested there. That way you will know if the tester is at fault. It is a pretty simple device and there is not much to go wrong with it. Just be careful handling the meter just after testing and hold it by the handle until it cools down. The other answers you received are spot on correct. " Slightly weak" does not give any of us the whole picture of the test being performed also it is highly unusual to find a new battery that is weak once it has been fully charged and put into service. Good luck. Harold
530941
Steve, I just discovered the adjustment pot for zeroing (or at least get it close to spec) the DC clamp current. Turn the meter over, then open and remove the battery cover. On the back you will find two holes to the left of the center chassis screw. The hole closest to that center chassis screw locates the adjustment pot for the DC clamp current mode. Turn the pot clockwise to decrease the value towards negative, counter-clockwise to increase the value towards positive. Use a miniature Phillips #1 (3mm Ø shaft) screwdriver.See the photo I uploaded.
1446278
Mine works great and always has. The fact that a display cycles probably means that you have it hooked up wrong. In normal operation, one bar stays lit or flashes when low. Remember that the positive and negative have to ALWAYS be hooked up to your battery pos. and neg. I've got a switch on mine to turn off the display but it's not really needed. One user says "The C is for your switch to turn on the indicator, with my application, I ran a wire and connected it directly with the positive terminal for the indicator, beings I want to be able to kill power to the entire indicator when not in use. Prolly wasn't needed but that was my choice and it works great. The R is unused and I think I read that it's not commonly used." On mine, I think that means that when I installed it I hooked pos to battery pos and neg to battery neg. Then I hooked a wire from C to my switch and back from the positive pole on my switch to neg on the indicator. If you don't put in a switch, then I believe C just gets hooked straight to positive so that the unit will display.
859567
As far as cold weather performance, I'm now disappointed. I tested it today with both the car and the just-charged powerall cold, at -15°C (5F). It doesn't work. But there could be something wrong with mine and maybe it's not fully charged. While charging, it stayed at the 3-led level for 4 hrs. So I dis/reconnected charger, and suddenly it goes to 5 leds and stops. Something's weird.
1326041
I don't know what you want this gauge to do. IT measure amps volts, wattage. load, and Cycle. It doesn't know how many AH Capacity your batter is. Hope this helps RC
1484396
While as some people suggested, a 9V battery may read slightly higher, a 12V automotive may read closer to 14V than 12V, but a 3.7V battery should never read higher than 4.2V. Odds are your meter left the factory miscalibrated or not calibrated at all and some part in it is out of specification. If you are adept at tracing electronic circuits then you may be able to open the meter and determine the correct component to change to fix the miscalibration issue, but it would be more of an academic exercise than a good investment of time since you will still end up with a low end meter selling for $8. While as some people suggested, a 9V battery may read slightly higher, a 12V automotive may read closer to 14V than 12V, but a 3.7V battery should never read higher than 4.2V. Odds are your meter left the factory miscalibrated or not calibrated at all and some part in it is out of specification. If you are adept at tracing electronic circuits then you may be able to open the meter and determine the correct component to change to fix the miscalibration issue, but it would be more of an academic exercise than a good investment of time since you will still end up with a low end meter selling... » Read More While as some people suggested, a 9V battery may read slightly higher, a 12V automotive may read closer to 14V than 12V, but a 3.7V battery should never read higher than 4.2V. Odds are your meter left the factory miscalibrated or not calibrated at all and some part in it is out of specification. If you are adept at tracing electronic circuits then you may be able to open the meter and determine the correct component to change to fix the miscalibration issue, but it would be more of an academic exercise than a good investment of time since you will still end up with a low end meter selling for $8. « Show Less