If I already have "R" and "Rc" connected to my HVAC, since I only need a "C" wire 24 VAC source, do I only need to connect this to "C"?
647739
the C wite is essentially just a power source. If everything else works with just a battery and you don't have just the C wire, then this is what you need.
1195746
A relay is included but I didnt need it. Check your furnace set up...chances are you have a 24v HUM hookup on your furnace.
1846157
Please google images on this connector and wire. I think the wire you are using is for 120 VAC and not 240 VAC. You should have 4 conductor (Black/Black, white, green or Black/Red, white green) 2 phase @ 240V, Neutral and Ground.
204046
Yes, it's the same. I believe one is a consumer model like what you'd find at Lowe's or Home Depot, and the other is the contractor model that is sold to the professionals. The ONLY difference I can find is on the consumer model it says the C wire is "not used" however I hooked it up anyway and sure enough it ran on the 24V AC power because the internals are exactly the same. They look the same and function the same.
161537
It depends on your existing thermostat. This unit requires 5 wires, with the 5th blue wire requiring 24V. If you have a modern 5 wire thermostat, it should work by hooking it up as you say. If you are currently hooked up to only 4 wires, I suggest getting an HVAC person to help out.
1916111
I believe that is the easiest type. I'd I recall correctly the white wire is put in the 'W' spot and the red wire is put in the 'RC' spot. It's the exact same as with any other heating only thermostat wire setup. The directions should provide the correct diagram.
634720
Glenn, you might be able to modify and create something simple that does what you want because it is definitely drawing power from my wall. The vacuum receptacles throughout the house have power running into them with a little plug under each. I bet you can simply just run the power into it yourself with the right cable and connector. Here's a picture of exactly what the pins look like on the vaccum that I was speaking of. http://www.centralvacuumstores.com/meta/images/lg/cvs/centec_8919_2.jpg
1290664
No, this thermostat requires constant power - you will need a 24V "common" wire connected to the thermostat's "C" terminal. You would either need to run additional wires from your furnace to this thermostat, or there is an adapter you may be able to install into your current setup, but I'm not sure if you can make it work with only two wires. Either way you will need to modify your current configuration to include the common wire. See Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire for all 24VAC Thermostats
229678
This is usually not an issue because the half of the kit that needs 24V goes next to your furnace - and it's easy to find the 24V there. If your furnace doesn't have any 24V (?) then no, you'll need a transformer.
627743
No, the fan motor is 120VAC and the humidifier controller and water valve are 24VAC. You will damage them. Without knowing exactly what you have it is hard to tell you how to hook this up. The 500 control box has terminals that will match your home thermostat terminals and your furnace terminals. Terminal R-is red wire, Terminal W is a white wire. Terminal G is a green wire. And terminal Y is a yellow wire. Match the terminals from your thermostat or furnace with your Aprilaire controller. the wire can be purchased on line or from your local building supply like Home Depot. Both the Aprilaire humidifier and the controller come with wiring instructions. However if you have a late model high efficiency furnace it will have a humidity terminal marked HUM. If this is the case connect the Aprilaire controller G terminal to the humidity terminal. No other wires should be on the Aprilaire controller G terminal or the HUM terminal of the furnace. If you connect it incorrectly you do run the risk of damaging the controller, your furnace or both. I have 30 years experience in control circuits that helped me hook this up. Better to ask a professional for help if you have any confusion. Followup after I looked at my furnace connections. I made one mistake for the HUM terminal on high efficiency furnaces. You need to connect W terminal of humidity controller to HUM of furnace not G. FYI on furnace connections R is power out to thermostat and controller Y is demand for cooling input to furnace W is demand for heat input to furnace G is run fan with no demand or heat or cooling input to furnace C is return for power and is required for humidity controller to provide power return path. It is also used on high end thermostats that require power. Normal thermostat wire is 4 conductor for newer thermostats you may need the C connection. Home Depot has 5 conductor wire.
260039
Assuming that you have heat only, the white (ground) wire connects to "W" and the red wire to "R". A call to the company who installed the furnace generally works.
383570
P.S. You can power it off the R & C terminals where your thermostat ties into your furnace if your thermostat is 24V.
351527
Hi Beth, the first thing you need to know is that having a black, white, and red wire is perfectly normal in a 240 volt circut, and this unit is designed to accomodate both a 2-wire and 3-wire install. I have installed several of these units in my shore house and all of the installations were two wire. Since in many cases a picture is worth a thousand words, copy and paste the following link into your computers browser and have a look at the pictures for both the 2-wire and 3-wire insallation. I think when you see the 3-wire installation diagram your question will be answered. I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck. https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-1917EF.pdf
1798214
If you are using existing system shouldn't need wire.I did go to hardware store for ends as existing were soldered
493455
Yes it does need the C wire as that is the common for the 24v it needs it to power it up. It has no other power source like a battery like some have. Hope this answers your question.
1848499
It does require a C'wire power. There are other Z-wave thermostats out there, that are battery powered and should work in your case. I have one on my upstairs HVAC by a company called 2GIG.
1896107
This model is a 2H/1C heat Pump system. The RC/R is the red wire for power. Y=compressor contactor is yellow. C=24VAC common is blue. O/B= changeover valve = peach/orange (I think my wire has faded its color). G= fan relay is green. And the Aux/E = Auxiliary/Emergency heat relay Is white. Hope this helps.