ok, looking to install these on my pop up camper, I will also be running a generator, do I need to install an isolator to protect the solar system?
1140534
These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.)I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially adds another virtual panel due to it's improved efficiency. These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.)I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially... » Read More These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.)I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially adds another virtual panel due to it's improved efficiency. « Show Less
1140535
These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.) I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially adds another virtual panel due to it's improved efficiency.
1140536
The solar controller and generated can be connected to the same battery in parallel and not have any problems.I would only see an isolator or disconnect switch necessary if you wanted to remove your batteries and switch them with a different set or configuration.That way you can disconnect your panels while managing your batteries. This is good for preventing your charge controller from getting damaged.Let us know if you need further assistance.Regards,AW
2192933
I'm not sure how this is a yes or no question. If it was me I would just buy the motion detector alone. They are available and would be of better quality and higher amperage, to cover your relay.
412304
I have ours in a fenced in enclosure immediately behind our attached garage where the central AC unit is located. When the windows on the back of the house are closed, it is barely discernable, even operating at full draw on the system (genny engine RPM up high.) Given that it is a back up generator and it is expected to be heard as part of the fact that there is a need for it to begin with, it's not at all bothersome.
2108336
no they should not fry. these devices protect your equipment from spikes that generators produce
2063327
You should find a place within the engine bay that will have enough physical space to solidly mount the isolator allowing it air space to shed heat. A 140 AMP rated isolator will work fine with a 105 AMP alternator. My 140 AMP isolator is working under the hood of a 1998 GMC K2500 with a GM Delco 100A alternator, Optima Red top and Blue top batteries and good quality 10 gauge wiring just fine. There should be no issues as long as you do not run an alternator that is more powerful than your isolator rating.
1723181
We have hooked ours up to leaf blowers, outdoor equipment, radios and a pop-up camper. Uses very little gas, it's quiet. Great generator !
780313
Good grief no. It's to cover the unit when not in use. If I was to use the generator under those conditions I would make a lean to with plenty if space around it.
1157122
It's simple, you can use the isolator solenoid between either the positive or negative terminals of your secondary battery (it doesn't matter) However, in order to use it as an emergency start, you need to wire up the remote turn on switch to your secondary isolated battery. The reason being if your primary (non isolated) battery were to fully discharge, you will still be able to power up the relay using the reserve power from the isolated battery. Many folks make the mistake of using the primary battery to source power for the switch only to find that it simply will not work if/when the primary battery fails. Rick
1789538
Better turn it off as soon as the power outage happens. Don't take risks with space heaters, no matter how safe they are.
1688343
I don't know ,I have never used one with it.There is a grounding lug on the generator
1165784
We just hooked ours up to a car battery. It has clamps like jumper cables, if there is a spot in your generator to hook them then yes
1957677
Sorry, I can not answer that question as we have never used it with a generator.
372043
Hi Brad, this is a very simple type of protector; shuts off the power when ground faults are present. It offers offers 510 Joules of surge protection and will shut off the power at the pedestal when power is too high or low. Requires manual reset after a ground fault. I'm not sure if it will cut off power (you shouldn't be able to reset the protector) if the poles are improperly wired. I think it is a very inexpensive protection for 30 AMP service RVs. Tom
405262
One of my electronics friends responded: You should consider getting a UPS, uninteruptable power supply. In Amazon search for Tripp Lite UPS to see a variety. There $160 unit is very good. Other companies make good UPS units. I have two APC units when my power was unreliable. I don't use them now, but I don't have a generator. I would plug the IsoBar into the UPS just to be sure.
1023204
Yes sir/ma'am, supposedly thats what your paying for with a generator like this one. I rmr doing this same research before I purchased this unit. It has the better rotor that generates the electricity, (If i rmr correctly, when I say better, i mean that it has a brushless generator. That means cleaner/smoother electricity from my findings). I used my 61" LED TV, MacBook Pro, & other expensive gadgets during a 5 day power outtage. NO issues & unit performed flawlessly. To be safe, I'd do what 'Khend' recommends regarding the surge protector below.
1733445
I have not got them to work as generators. These ar the cheapest heat sinks I've seen so far
1613030
I have the same setup on my travel trailer - two Trojan 6 volt in series, for 12 volts total. Just took it camping this weekend, with no hookups and went 3 days without having to run a generator. We used a small laptop, our house water pump, fridge, and furnace ran all three nights as well. Something to keep in mind is that all of my lights have been switched to led, and it was only slightly cloudy for us. I never bothered to check my actual voltage, but my stock wall meter was typically at 1/2 to 3/4 in the a.m., and full by sunset. Hope this helps