I'm surprised no one mentions that you have to drill ten holes fairly close together in each joist for the lag screws, according to instructions. Ten seems like overkill. Won't this weaken the joist?
1124126
You really don't want this thing coming down. 10 is a good number and won't weaken a 2x6 (or greater) ceiling joist. I threw out the lag bolts that they supplied and replaced them with 3 inch long 1/4" diameter lags. What they supply is useless for a garage with a finished ceiling. You have 5/8" sheetrock, then 3/4" firring strips(not good for holding this lift up at all). Considering that the 2 inch lags they supply have a head plus the bracket thickness, that leaves you with less than 5/8" of penetration into the stud. That is stupid dangerous in my opinion. I have 2 of these lifts installed, one is heavily loaded and has been up there for a month now. You really really really want to read the installation instructions from various customers before buying (I did). I also posted what I did.
404359
As many as you want. When you realign the guide to drill the next set of holes, the positioning is perfect because you peg into the last hole drilled. I own one. If you have a very large scale project and need alot of speed, it may be to your benefit to own a larger jig. Every jig comes with a connector kit to hook to another and this can go as big as you can actually handle/control/manage the jig.
2270861
You can find four screws under the four different center pieces. Just tighten them up a bit and it should be fine.
1521099
If you are worried about the joist splitting, you should predrill the holes for the screws ...which you should do anyway. It makes the screws or bolts go in much easier.
1068113
I have not yet mounted it, just came the other day. It looks like 3/8 bolts or lag screws would work well. I did not measure the mounting hole, but they are larger than 3/8. Be sure to look at other comments and product reviews. This is a quality vise, but the specs are not accurate as listed on Amazon.
1493438
I suspect a little depends on the drilling material. I've used mine in tight places with up to #8 screws through pre-drilled shelves. I wanted a light drill for hard to get to places without the cumbersome flat type batteries. (of which I have several)
104268
Two ways either use lag bolts (real heavy screws) or drill through the material and install bolts with washers under bolt head and use lock washers for nut. I used latter suggestions with no problems. This shelf is a dream and very easy to install.David Van Hooser, Miihobby, LLC601-941-5841
541389
What is the vertical dimension of the joist? Is it exposed? Any other joists in the vicinity? My joists were only 2" wide and too close together for the bar mounts. I got a 4x4 and put that over the top of the joists and then secured the mounts/bar to the 4x4.
685241
I strongly recommend carefully predrilling before adding screws---to minimize wood stress/splitting risk. (some 'self tapping' screws automatically do this, but one must be especially careful not to over tighten/strip out the holes!!)
256097
That's correct. The vertical support bars would be installed on every joist, so there would be about a 10" overhang on each side. If you are installing multiple units, there will be about a 3" gap between each. What worked well for me with multiple units was to use two heavy duty metal straps (about 1" wide, 8" long, 1/8" thick) and bolt those between the gaps in the shelves (with one on top and the other on the bottom of the shelving). This was done toward the outside of the shelves (away from the wall). That made all the units act as one. Then use 3" right angle brackets and bolts/screws to attach the shelves to the wall. That made the whole thing incredibly solid (they will sway a bit otherwise). That's correct. The vertical support bars would be installed on every joist, so there would be about a 10" overhang on each side. If you are installing multiple units, there will be about a 3" gap between each. What worked well for me with multiple units was to use two heavy duty metal straps (about 1" wide, 8" long, 1/8" thick) and bolt those between the gaps in the shelves (with one on top and the other on the bottom of the shelving). This was done toward the outside of the shelves (away from the wall). That made all the units act as one. Then use 3" right... » Read More That's correct. The vertical support bars would be installed on every joist, so there would be about a 10" overhang on each side. If you are installing multiple units, there will be about a 3" gap between each. What worked well for me with multiple units was to use two heavy duty metal straps (about 1" wide, 8" long, 1/8" thick) and bolt those between the gaps in the shelves (with one on top and the other on the bottom of the shelving). This was done toward the outside of the shelves (away from the wall). That made all the units act as one. Then use 3" right angle brackets and bolts/screws to attach the shelves to the wall. That made the whole thing incredibly solid (they will sway a bit otherwise). « Show Less
2174878
The safe is not pre-drilled for bolting it down. The user manual includes instructions on how to drill through two of the feet on the bottom of the safe in order to bolt it to the floor. I don't remember whether or not the safe came with the lag bolts. If not, the instructions refer you to the manufacturer's website for recommended hardware.
1599843
From Lowes I got this: The Hillman Group Construction Lag Screws 5/16 x 3-1/2Item #: 155913 | Model #: 47870I got 3 1/2 because I'm drilling them into a 4x6 beam. If you're not drilling into a wooden beam like this then use a slight variation.
1905342
You may need to drill pilot holes for the screws. But I didn't have any problems without drilling them. It just takes a little more force to get the screws started.
662595
Also, I would suggest having a lubricant like WD-40, bar soap etc. as not all of the pre marked screw holes are exactly where they need to be. The lubricant helps the screw go in a little better. But watching the you tube video on assembly is a GREAT help to see how it is done.
433922
If its making noise its not applied right. This is not going to work in a floor joist, you need a center beam. If you put it in a center beam, then its not going to make any noise or move. If the center beam of your house is moving, then run, because its about to fall down.
2092505
Yes. The tool installs the screw perpendicular to the board, which will screw into joist. Just find the right position to maximize screw contact. (likely near the edge of the joist). Awesome tool!
281574
1) YES 2)NO 3) YES, but I just screwed directly from the bottom of shelflinks into the 2x4s, not from the top. I just put the wood on the floor and laid the shelflink on top of 2x4s and marked on the wood and drilled the screws without predrilling. The Home Depots cheapest 2x4 I used were soft enough so there was no need to drill a hole first. Used a portable drill with a screw head.