Could this plane be considered a "scrub plane"? Would it be able to smooth the sides of hand hewn oak? Thanks, I am a novice wanting to learn.
1143661
Generally, a scrub plane has a wide mouth and has a heavily cambered (curved) iron. While the mouth on this plane is adjustable, in order for it to function properly as a smoother the iron should only be cambered slightly, and some even recommend having no curve. A scrub plane is a rougher tool. In order to make this into a scrub plane it would basically loose its workability as a smooth plane. So I would not attempt to use this as a very heavy stock removal tool. Scrub planes are generally inexpensive, new or used. Another option is purchase a used Stanley Jack plane. If you only want to use it as a heavy stock removal tool, the Jack plane is a great option. Even an older, beat up jack will function great for rough prep wok, and it's heavier weight will work to your advantage. You can pick up a used Jack plane in good working condition for usually under $75 on ebay or from many tool dealers on the internet. This plane does a nice job as a smoother and for light stock removal, I wouldn't attempt to alter its function from that role. Hope this helps.
1143662
It is not a scrub plane - but I suppose you could grind the iron into a curve like a scrub plane iron and do that job...It would be a lot of grinding and a lot of wasted steel...Will it be able to smooth sides of hand hewn oak - sure. A scrub plane would go faster and probably be followed by something like this one.
1143663
The number 4 is NOT a scrub plane. This number 4 is a smoothing plane. I do not know what your hand hewn oak looks like, so I cannot give a reasonable answer. Is your hand hewn oak dried? Have you flattened it? A scrub plane is designed to remove wood quickly, and tends to leaves texture marks on the wood. Look at the Stanley 40 or 40 1/2 for a scrub plane. For a quick overview, see http://www.lie-nielsen.com/special-purpose-tools/scrub-plane/
1143664
Definitely not. A scrub plane has an open throat and a curved blade allowing you remove a lot of material quickly. If you don't have access to a jointer, give your board a skim cut on the table saw to put a straight square edge on it then use a plane like this one to put the finishing touch on.
1143665
You can always make a plane into a scrub plane by extending the blade and putting a curve on it. But a regular scrub has a heavy plane. I have a Veritas scrub plane that I use and this wouldn't do what that does. If you are going to modify a plane to make scrub plane, you could get a cheaper plane to do the job. If this plane is properly tuned, it will handle difficult grain better than some other planes. You could use it on hewn oak, but it would take a lot longer than a regular scrub plane. It would make a better plane to use to smooth the oak after using a scrub plane to do the heavy stuff. You can always make a plane into a scrub plane by extending the blade and putting a curve on it. But a regular scrub has a heavy plane. I have a Veritas scrub plane that I use and this wouldn't do what that does. If you are going to modify a plane to make scrub plane, you could get a cheaper plane to do the job. If this plane is properly tuned, it will handle difficult grain better than some other planes. You could use it on hewn oak, but it would take a lot longer than a regular scrub plane. It would make a better plane to use to smooth the oak after using a scrub plane to do the heavy stuff.
1143666
This is a good candidate for a scrub plane because it is easy to adjust the throat. The one thing that distinguishes a scrub plane is that the blade is shaped and then sharpened with a curved edge. This allows it to remove material much faster and also leaves the hand hewn surface you want. To do that the throat of the plane, the opening in front of the blade, has to be generous so the larger shavings can pass through without jamming. The throat on this plane adjusts by loosening the front knob then sliding a brass cam, just like a block plane. So I would say yes. Hope that helps
1143667
Probably not. It is a bit too long for scrubbing. I use it to smooth out short boards and it does fine.
1128380
To date, I have only planed alder, cherry and walnut. Recognizing the limits of ANY of the smaller planers, I tend to take more passes with less wood removed with each pass. I have had zero to minimal issues with snipe with this machine right out of the box.
1631840
No, Its forced out from rotation of blade. Its a good planer. Ive used for Cedar, Cherry and walnut with no problems or blade change.
66971
That seems like overkill. If you properly strop the blade several times on each side, that will do the job. You don't need anything moving at a higher speed.
154622
Should be fine for a weekend woodworker...I have run around 750' of poplar that I pulled from an old house that had upteen coats of white oil base paint, cleaned up very nice...and around 100' of 7/8 kiln dried poplar to build a vanity and wall cabinet for my son's house and the blades are still very sharp. Will probably try and run some red oak through sometime before the new year for projects to build later...
597108
You can purchase additional plane irons for it and grind them to re-purpose the plane. For instance, by rounding the outside edges of the plane iron you can make a very nice scrub plane out of it.
1160329
This is great for smooth surfaces. I doesn't work well on gravely or uneven surfaces. Know that now, I would have selected the 3 wheel model.
2282360
I really do not know. However, other reviews said that the scrub brush works better and is kinder to the wood. Also, since it works best when left on a bit (in directions, I believe) and then scrub, the brush method makes more sense. It did an amazing job for me, and once left on a bit, scubs clean easily.
266751
I got the same plane. What I did was hone the blade and round the corner of the blade a bit. This will help prevent the sharp corner from digging in too deep when you are planing. It's hard for me to explain in words, but here's some link that I find very useful sharpening http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvTcReENk9g . Flattening , http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQyjLV92224. Hope that helps.
1601003
I have only used the Freud FI102 on oak wood and have not had any problem with it at all. It is working very well for the short time I've had the blade. It has probably made in the area of 250 or 300 biscuit cuts so far and as of yet everything is great. I would give the blade a 5 out of 5 if I was rating the blade.
1406907
Technically, it should remove the material, but as mentioned will be pretty tedious. I can't help but think that a decent large hand plane would be the better choice. Even if you pursue using the router jig, a bottom cleaning bit with carbide the extends across the bottom of the bit would be a better choice.
1488446
Yes this is the perfect plane,for beginners.I loved it!see my videos on it! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVzSCT_qlVU
1280554
Yes and it is actually a very good plane for a beginner. You could go on Ebay and get an older Stanley plane and do a refurbish job on it, however, I would not recommend that for a beginner. This is a good, solid and very usable plane (one of my "go to" planes" Get on Youtube and learn to do "scary sharpening" with sandpaper and you will have a plane blade you can shave with and a plane with will leave the wood glassy smooth. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
954884
In this particular plane it doesn't make any difference. Simplicity is it's strong point coupled with it's high quality blade produces an excellent shave. I also have a modern No4- Kunz plane and also a No4- Veratis, and the Stanley shaves the timber just as good despite not having the same amount of adjustment. The ultimate question is price versus quality. For it's price you are getting a good tool. I have several hand planes and I find this plane is the easiest to maintain and clean. All my other planes with all the adjustments on them makes it a fiddly job to clean them and set them up.I hope this information helps you. In this particular plane it doesn't make any difference. Simplicity is it's strong point coupled with it's high quality blade produces an excellent shave. I also have a modern No4- Kunz plane and also a No4- Veratis, and the Stanley shaves the timber just as good despite not having the same amount of adjustment. The ultimate question is price versus quality. For it's price you are getting a good tool. I have several hand planes and I find this plane is the easiest to maintain and clean. All my other planes with all the adjustments on them makes it a fiddly job to clean them and set them... » Read More In this particular plane it doesn't make any difference. Simplicity is it's strong point coupled with it's high quality blade produces an excellent shave. I also have a modern No4- Kunz plane and also a No4- Veratis, and the Stanley shaves the timber just as good despite not having the same amount of adjustment. The ultimate question is price versus quality. For it's price you are getting a good tool. I have several hand planes and I find this plane is the easiest to maintain and clean. All my other planes with all the adjustments on them makes it a fiddly job to clean them and set them up.I hope this information helps you. « Show Less
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
597109
A fore plane it is..just at a low angle..a scrub plane the angle is usually greater than 45 degrees I don't think it would make a good scrub plane.
2099591
This appears to be the plane I ordered I think about two years ago. If it is the finish was rough, the blades sharpened, and the sole needed made flat. If you are not interested in spending the time to bring it up to good working order I would not buy it.