What is diffrence between this router and the Hitachi M12VE which is about $10 more expensive on Amazon?
1149321
It is a different shell casing design, heavier than the M12 VE and I don't think the handles are adjustable on the m12V2. I have the m12V2 (purchased through Amazon ) and it is a monster of a router, works great and not a bad router for the money but I don't like the looks of the M12V2 .....looks like a future space tool.....
1567883
I bought this router from Costco and after having lots of problems with it for several weeks, returned it to Costco for a Refund and went back to my old router. Routers seem to be the electronic device that seems to be operating in a last century mode. I still want to buy a new one, but am wary about Netgear models. I personally would NOT recommend this model.
1691880
This will not replace the router, this is a switch only. Get a router e4200v2 instead
751085
Have no idea about the Hitachi, but the Porter Cable is great. I would recommend the PC, I have had no problem with it and I do use it professionally.
207317
There is no difference in speed, both are gigabit Ethernet switches. I can't say if there is any internal difference with the new one because I don't have it. But the plastic one works great for me
2215429
What model router do you have? I see it's a Dewalt but is it a plunge router? There's only one lift for a plunge router that I know of called a Router Raizer that aren't that expensive. http://www.routertechnologies.com/ Get the extension, it's worth every penny. For a standard lift, I know they can run up to $500 for an electronic lift. While that's a great feature you can still create repeatable cuts with almost any lift. Try checking Craigslist in your area, maybe someone is selling a lift. Good luck!
1861251
Reading the description on the Hitachi website should be a very authoritative source. And it is much faster than asking Amazon customers.
1623200
I use the Bosch RA1181 bench top table (review here http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=cm_cr-mr-title). It takes some work to make it right, but for the price I like it. The router plate is already drilled for mounting and has a hole for above table depth adj, which I find very helpful. The adj works well, but you will have to reach under the table to change the range of bit height adjustment. Above the table height works once you get the base "in the range". I use offset wrenches (review here http://www.amazon.com/Offset-Wrench-Triton-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B0040BLFZE/ref=cm_cr-mr-title) for bit changes - this is for the nut, I have another for the shaft - that work far better than the straight wrenches that came with my 1617EVS router, well worth the $.
1230386
Yes, it did replace the older version. It's been working fine since I connected it and accommodates my pc needs. I didn't need to buy the more expensive router that a customer service rep recommended for $125.00.
2117421
I've always purchased the P103 but after looking at the P102 I think this is the way to go. It's ighter, has more power and is $10 cheaper.
1005730
The case of the unit I purchased locally is plastic. Although a metal case compatible with rack-mount would be nice this router is so feature-rich and good performer that it really doesn't matter. I prefer reliable software and good support to rugged hardware with crappy software (yes, I am looking at you TP-Link).
1033090
I don't honestly know. People, like Kim Komando podcast and electronics show, do say to stay with the same maker. You could try calling Netgear they have been helpful to me with questions about updating router in the past.
1170179
P is the V2 version of U. I purchased the P from Best Buy today and on the back right corner it says:FCC ID:MSQ-RTAC68UV2V2 revision of Broadcom-based AC1900 router with a faster processor and improved storage throughput.Faster USB 3.0 storage performance than the 68U.http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/rankers/router/view
2204931
Here is the list of compatible routers from the owner's manual - it would have been nice to have this when I was shopping: Bosch Models 1613 series, 1617 series (fixed base only), 1619EVS; Craftsman listed as "most Craftsman 1/2" collet routers"; DeWalt DW616, DW618 (Fixed base only); Hitachi M12VC; Makita RF1100, RF1101; Milwaukee 5615, 5616; Porter Cable 690 Series, 7529 plunge router and 892-895 series (fixed base only); Ryobi R161, R162, RE170, RE180 PL; Skil 1810, 1815, 1820, 1825. I used this table with my Craftsman and tried to use it with the Makita RF1101. The problem there lay with the Makita design, however, not this table. The router mounted beautifully to the table and bit replacement and cutting depth was a dream from the top, but the motor base would not stay locked in place in an undermount setup due to Makita's deficient lock lever design. (If you're curious about the particulars, please see my review of the Makita RF1101). This was a crying shame IMO, since the Makita is supposed to be a real workhorse, unlike my burned out Craftsman. I have now been using it with the Milwaukee 5616 for the past 3 years and it works satisfactorily.
2256219
I would not buy this one. I replaced mine with a TP-Link router and it is a way better router and really easy to connect to. I left feed back on the one I bought to.Have a nice dayTed
1087761
Easy.... The router I have (Hitachi) is easy to separate from it's base by means of a lever. The motor/chuck of the router unscrews downward and separates from the base installed on the Bosch table easily, enabling bit changes. I opted for the Hitachi for this convenience. I make many cabinets and lots of trim using this convenience often. I believe the Bosch separates easily as well.---Ed
1643633
Both routers look great and meet my requirements. SlikLizrd, can you specify how much is one better than the other for: - Wired and Wireless performance - Wireless Range - NAS performance - Media Server performance Thanks