I am wondering what is the best method connect (2) sets of (2) lights together when the two main upper cabinets have a sink between the cabinets. I have the wall open now and am installing other electric so can I bury a 6ft extension behind the drywall and run thru the studs, or should I run the extension line around the window trim on the sink window after drywall and window trim is in place? I would prefer a hidden behind the drywall installation, but not sure if that is an issue w codes and such. I am wondering what is the best method connect (2) sets of (2) lights together when the two main upper cabinets have a sink between the cabinets. I have the wall open now and am installing other... » Read More I am wondering what is the best method connect (2) sets of (2) lights together when the two main upper cabinets have a sink between the cabinets. I have the wall open now and am installing other electric so can I bury a 6ft extension behind the drywall and run thru the studs, or should I run the extension line around the window trim on the sink window after drywall and window trim is in place? I would prefer a hidden behind the drywall installation, but not sure if that is an issue w codes and such. « Show Less
1114296
You may be making this harder than need be. I drilled holes in my cabinets and routed the wires through the cabinets in the front inside corners and along the underside behind the front overhang. Nothing shows. The connecting wires are 36 inches which gives you a lot of flexibility. I ran the string into an appliance garage where I had an outlet to plug into and hid the transformer switch and dimmer receiver high enough inside not to be seen.
1114297
Run the wire through the studs, this is a very low voltage...less than a few c batteries together. hiding them is best and easiest if you have the wall avail...buy a long drill bit...piece of cake
1114298
I have not installed these on the sink side of our kitchen yet. However, I have thought about how I am going to do it. With an existing kitchen like ours, I'm going to install 2 separate light kits under each cabinet (left & right of sink). In a new kitchen install such as you are talking about, I would definitely install per the code for your area. I don't think that the 6 ft extension cable that you can get from LIGHTWIKI is rated for inside a wall (too thin & no protection from fire & other hazards). I hope that helps you.
1559810
E/C is where you connect the light too. I ran a electrical wire from one of my electrical box's at the end of the run, this way you can add another light.
844069
Full disclosure, its been 6 months or more since I completed my projects. But I'm pretty certain its 6 - 2ft sections. As I recall the instructions limit you to 10 sections. Once you cut a section, it ends the chain so the cut must be the last section only. There is also a package of connectors of different lengths that I found helpful in designing my installation. I found the adhesive works on vertical installations but on horizontal runs I needed to stable them up or the adhesive would eventually release and the lights sagged. With just a little planning, these are easy to use and result in a very nice installation. Full disclosure, its been 6 months or more since I completed my projects. But I'm pretty certain its 6 - 2ft sections. As I recall the instructions limit you to 10 sections. Once you cut a section, it ends the chain so the cut must be the last section only. There is also a package of connectors of different lengths that I found helpful in designing my installation. I found the adhesive works on vertical installations but on horizontal runs I needed to stable them up or the adhesive would eventually release and the lights sagged. With just a little planning, these are easy to use and result... » Read More Full disclosure, its been 6 months or more since I completed my projects. But I'm pretty certain its 6 - 2ft sections. As I recall the instructions limit you to 10 sections. Once you cut a section, it ends the chain so the cut must be the last section only. There is also a package of connectors of different lengths that I found helpful in designing my installation. I found the adhesive works on vertical installations but on horizontal runs I needed to stable them up or the adhesive would eventually release and the lights sagged. With just a little planning, these are easy to use and result in a very nice installation. « Show Less
619916
I had the same space as you do and the cabinet will not fit without being able to lengthen the hole to 25 inches. I was able to accomplish that by cutting out the 2x4 between the studs at the top of the opening and then cutting the drywall. The cabinet is definitely worth the extra work.
752011
Yes you can and I did. Ge makes a low profile junction box (model 24772, sold on Amazon) that links your household circuit and these lights. Mount it under your cabinet, then you just add additional together with the link cables supplied with the lights. Works very well and I really like the bright white light these units put out.
1034575
Make sure your cabinet has at least 2" dead air spaces all the way around and vented. I also recommend that since this is convection oven so lots of heats will coming out so the inside cabinet should be metal sheets coved all the way around. Also power cable should be metal jacketed. I suggest install air fun so all hot air will be outside. Good luck!!!
969187
Not entirely clear what the question is but you need to have access to top of unit after it is screwed in place to connect duct and electrical wire. As discussed previously - it is difficult to install in existing ceiling since the hole you push the unit up through is larger than the grille so you will have to repair ceiling unless you remove part of the unit, and then reassemble unit after it is pushed up into ceiling. So it is better to install it from above ceiling.
880349
The first puck connects to your 110v outlet. I cut the plug off and hardwired mine into a service feed. Then each subsequent plugs into the one before it... Daisey-chain style. I forget how many in this series you can connect, but it is quite a few, like maybe 16. I like the way these fasten under cabinets. They have a small tabbed piece you screw to the cabinet, then you position the puck on it and give it a quarter turn... Very easy! Because their operating temperature is quite low, you probably could attach them using a double-sided tape (I would use the foam type), or even velcro, if you do not want to put screw holes in the mounting surface. The first puck connects to your 110v outlet. I cut the plug off and hardwired mine into a service feed. Then each subsequent plugs into the one before it... Daisey-chain style. I forget how many in this series you can connect, but it is quite a few, like maybe 16. I like the way these fasten under cabinets. They have a small tabbed piece you screw to the cabinet, then you position the puck on it and give it a quarter turn... Very easy! Because their operating temperature is quite low, you probably could attach them using a double-sided tape (I would use the foam type), or even velcro, if... » Read More The first puck connects to your 110v outlet. I cut the plug off and hardwired mine into a service feed. Then each subsequent plugs into the one before it... Daisey-chain style. I forget how many in this series you can connect, but it is quite a few, like maybe 16. I like the way these fasten under cabinets. They have a small tabbed piece you screw to the cabinet, then you position the puck on it and give it a quarter turn... Very easy! Because their operating temperature is quite low, you probably could attach them using a double-sided tape (I would use the foam type), or even velcro, if you do not want to put screw holes in the mounting surface. « Show Less
793859
After the cabinet is put together before the doors are installed you need to mark the wall above where the cabinet is going to be hung so you can see the mark. Remember studs are suppose to be 16 inches apart. Buy 2 inch screws or 2.5 wood screws-not real thick but medium-drill small hole in back of upper wood horizontal piece that is part of the cabinet-one hole on left side and one on the right side where you have your marks on the wall where the stud is located. Hole should be just enough to get the body of the screw thru-not the head of it. Also a small nail can find the center of each stud. Try to find the center of the stud-you don't want to drill into the edge of it-get into the meat of it. Use a battery or electric drill and set it with alot of torque because you will need the power. Have on person hold up one side and you hold up the other while putting in the one screw on your side or have 3 people involved.
1616397
The drawers actually don't sit all the way to the back wall, but they are enclosed into their own space separated from the rest of the interior of the vanity. You will have to split the hot and cold water supply so they come put the wall under each sink, that's what i did, but i did drill two wholes to be able to run the waste line behind the drawers that connects both sinks drains, vs doing it inside the wall. You have 5 1/2" space between the back of the drawers and the back wall of the cabinet. I hope it helps.
1704066
The lights I purchased have a two wire pig tail on one end to attach to the required power supply. The other end was simply cut square. I did purchase end connectors that had two wires attached (+Red and -Black) that the square cut end of the light strip would plug into. Conceivable you could daisy chain several strips together using that arrangement as long as your power supply is rated for the current. I'm sure some supplier has a type of connector that accepts the raw ends of two strips for an electrical connection. It should be noted that the lights in strip form are not protected from the elements or contact with metallic surfaces. Mine are placed behind a wood molding under the cabinets. I modified the molding to place the strip at a 45 degree angle and just hot glued them in place. Easier than any other lighting I looked at. The power supply is very compact and efficient. I think they are excellent. There is an even flooding of light over the countertop and they always run cool. Good Luck with your project.
2017121
You can ignore the "Yes" answers because they don't cover both outlets on a standard wallplate unless you have no imagination. Plug the light into the top outlet and the bottom outlet is available, though you may have to bend down to see what you're doing when plugging something in. Even easier, turn the light upside down and plug into the bottom outlet. Problem solved.
1978355
My kitchen cabinets are on two separate walls. I plug one set into the spare outlet that has the microwave plugged into it which is inside the cabinet over the microwave. The other set is plugged into the outlet behind the refrigerator.
1204923
It depends on how much light you want. The cords between lights are plenty long (3 feet). We placed a light under each of our 18 inch cabinets which makes it very bright when they are on full power. We could have gone with every other cabinet for a warmer feel (which we get with the low setting on the dimmer).
466626
Yes, you can install after your drywall is in place. They light up very well. We also used LED bulbs. To save on elec bills.
1252013
It is better to have two tracks; however you do not have to use the tracks if you have a stable wall to mount them on. You can use two inch wood screws and use the holes provided in the back of the cabinet to mount the cabinet. I would use washers if using the latter method. Make sure both cabinets are spaced to allow you to hit wall studs with your attaching screws. The same applies to the Gladiator Garageworks track. If you go to gladiatorgarageworks.com and find your cabinet, the will be a file you can download with the instructions and mounting options.
1660676
I don't think I quite understand the question, but I'll try to help. The fixture must be installed first, and by the looks of the model # (Halo H5ICAT) it looks like this is for new construction or before the drywall is installed. After the ceiling has been dry walled, you install the trim to cover any rough edges of the drywall around the light fixture. It is installed by squeezing the two spring clips so they'll fit in the two slots inside the can fixture. Once they're in the slots, you should be able to push the trim up toward the ceiling where it will snap in place. You should be able to screw the bulb in afterward. I hope this helps. I don't think I quite understand the question, but I'll try to help. The fixture must be installed first, and by the looks of the model # (Halo H5ICAT) it looks like this is for new construction or before the drywall is installed. After the ceiling has been dry walled, you install the trim to cover any rough edges of the drywall around the light fixture. It is installed by squeezing the two spring clips so they'll fit in the two slots inside the can fixture. Once they're in the slots, you should be able to push the trim up toward the ceiling where it will snap in place. You should be able... » Read More I don't think I quite understand the question, but I'll try to help. The fixture must be installed first, and by the looks of the model # (Halo H5ICAT) it looks like this is for new construction or before the drywall is installed. After the ceiling has been dry walled, you install the trim to cover any rough edges of the drywall around the light fixture. It is installed by squeezing the two spring clips so they'll fit in the two slots inside the can fixture. Once they're in the slots, you should be able to push the trim up toward the ceiling where it will snap in place. You should be able to screw the bulb in afterward. I hope this helps. « Show Less