is there special wiring need for this heater . i want to use it in my room .cani plug it in my lead in which i plug my my laptop mobile charger and iron ant thinig wrong if i use with it. if i use it for onr hour how much voltage ll be used for one...
1153244
To begin with, this heater is designed to be built into a wall or underneath a countertop or vanity. It is a poor choice use as I understand you want to use it. You can find many portable heaters that are designed to use for your apparent purpose-and most are 120 vac-to plug directly into a wall receptacle. This heater is factory wired for 240 vac. It would have to be rewired to use it on 120 vac, which would probably be the voltage at the receptacle I believe you are referring to where you plug in your laptop mobile charger. If it is rewired to 120 vac, it can be wired for 750 or 1500 watt. At 120 vac, that is a little over 6 amps or a little over 12 amps current draw. This heater will more than likely use more electricity than anything else you plug into the wall, with the exception of an iron or a microwave oven. I don't know what your electricity rate is. If you look at your utility bill, it should state a cost per kilowatt hour (kwh). For this heater, multiply that cost by .75, for 750 watts, or 1.5 for 1500 watts. That is the cost per hour you would run the heater.
434036
I am not a qualified adviser, but I don't see any reason you could not heat a battery with it IF you do not create any exposed sparks when connecting or disconnecting it near the battery and if you monitor the temperature and shut the heater off before the battery gets excessively warm. I forget whether the heater has it's own thermostat, if it does, the contacts are almost certainly in an enclosed capsule, therefore they should be safe for sparks, but watch the plugging in etc.
991594
I have found this heater to work as advertised. I have only used the heater plugged directly into the wall outlet. I would not hesitate to operate my heater with an extention cord with 14 to 12 guage copper wire.
415003
Hello, We are 8 Vornado heaters (spread about the house to be ready ... but only 1-3 are used at any time). This is an 1837 brick-stone building and the retrofit wiring/sockets are not in convenient places. That is why I have them plugged in to operate as needed (without crawling under furniture to reach a socket). The 6 DVTH models and the 2 TV500 ones are 1500w on HI and 750w on LO. (I might be off a few watts here and there but that's the HI/LO range). The remote for the TV500 will affect Sony products so if you have any of those, use the manual control on the heater or move the Sony products to another room. Hope this helps! They are the only brand which lasts, year after year. The DVTH are American designed/assembled (with imported parts?) and the TVH500 ones are Chinese-made. Both heat equally, here.
60860
plug-in. almost all heaters are because it really takes a lot of power (proportional to Amps) to heat. A battery-powered heater either wouldn't heat very much or would drain the batteries super-fast. FYI, because they take a lot of power they can flip circuit breakers and raise the electric bill. I'm using these models right now. They work fine but are not too big, so it takes a little while to heat up a whole room. Also, they do have an overheat sensor, so if it's knocked over it won't work again for a good while until it's cooled off.
289392
@MDH Unlikely to be 1 Watt - this is a heater! If the above info is correct and the wall wart says Output: 18VDC/3.5A that looks like about 63 Watt; or maybe the Input tells the full story: 110V/1A which would mean a consumption of 110 Watts when operating (more likely) (Stepping down the voltage from 110V should make it safer but less efficient?) If it consumes 110W while operating and it is in 'On' state for 5 hours per night that would mean @ $0.20/KwHr the blanket would cost $3.30 per month to run.It would need a meter attached while operating to find out how juicy it really is. @MDH Unlikely to be 1 Watt - this is a heater! If the above info is correct and the wall wart says Output: 18VDC/3.5A that looks like about 63 Watt; or maybe the Input tells the full story: 110V/1A which would mean a consumption of 110 Watts when operating (more likely) (Stepping down the voltage from 110V should make it safer but less efficient?) If it consumes 110W while operating and it is in 'On' state for 5 hours per night that would mean @ $0.20/KwHr the blanket would cost $3.30 per month to run.It would need a meter attached while operating to find out how juicy it really... » Read More @MDH Unlikely to be 1 Watt - this is a heater! If the above info is correct and the wall wart says Output: 18VDC/3.5A that looks like about 63 Watt; or maybe the Input tells the full story: 110V/1A which would mean a consumption of 110 Watts when operating (more likely) (Stepping down the voltage from 110V should make it safer but less efficient?) If it consumes 110W while operating and it is in 'On' state for 5 hours per night that would mean @ $0.20/KwHr the blanket would cost $3.30 per month to run.It would need a meter attached while operating to find out how juicy it really is. « Show Less
350481
Why would you need two, unless they each run separate 220v units? Did you compare the wattage demand of your heaters with the capacity of the thermostat? I matched mine to the amperage rating of my baseboard heaters, and it has been working just fine for almost two years now. You are using this 220v device with a 220v application, right? Most fans are 110v. It's possible to pull that out of a 220v circuit depending on what wire service exists (black, red, white and ground wires of adequate gauge are needed), but these things need to be wired correctly and carefully. Otherwise, it may do more than melt. Why would you need two, unless they each run separate 220v units? Did you compare the wattage demand of your heaters with the capacity of the thermostat? I matched mine to the amperage rating of my baseboard heaters, and it has been working just fine for almost two years now. You are using this 220v device with a 220v application, right? Most fans are 110v. It's possible to pull that out of a 220v circuit depending on what wire service exists (black, red, white and ground wires of adequate gauge are needed), but these things need to be wired correctly and carefully. Otherwise, it may do... » Read More Why would you need two, unless they each run separate 220v units? Did you compare the wattage demand of your heaters with the capacity of the thermostat? I matched mine to the amperage rating of my baseboard heaters, and it has been working just fine for almost two years now. You are using this 220v device with a 220v application, right? Most fans are 110v. It's possible to pull that out of a 220v circuit depending on what wire service exists (black, red, white and ground wires of adequate gauge are needed), but these things need to be wired correctly and carefully. Otherwise, it may do more than melt. « Show Less
58366
There are no wires coming from the heater, wires need to be run to the heater. I would sugest running the heater on a separate circuit.
621186
It recommended that it be a 20 amp. As to whether that has to be dedicated or not, I don't know, but I know that on my breaker, it is on its own circuit. I think the heater takes a fair amount of energy so it should be on its own.
2187233
It seems the circuit that you put the heater on needs to have a minimum 15 amp capacity, but in my experience the heater doesn't even pull 1/2 that amperage.
1646546
Craig,Thanks for the inquiry! This heater is designed to be hard-wired. If you're looking for something that can be plugged-in, I recommend that you give us a call and we'd be happy to review the various options with you. Our number is 800-472-3292. Thanks again, Jeff Cousins
1471121
fan forced good warm heater i got mine on now, in fact i got 2 heaters 220 volts in my house now, it not hard too put in a 220 circuit .
1787351
No, I would think that for most in-the-floor heaters and especially for bathroom usage, one must power this thermostat and the heater with a GFCI circuit. I know I had to rewire my system to add (convert) another GFCI circuit for my new in-the-floor heater.Rob2's answer makes me wonder if this thermostat has more capability than I remember -- will try to find the manual and check later.Checked the manual, and it says nothing about GFCI. Either use a GFCI circuit breaker (expensive) or an 'upstream' GFCI receptacle.
831019
To do it right, you should have a dedicated breaker for this heater. If you don't have an open breaker, get with an electrician to have a subpanel installed. Also depending on what state you're in, you may be required to use an ARC Fault breaker. I used a 15 amp GFCI breaker because it is located in a bathroom. Hopefully this answered your question.
1929913
My technician used normal electrical house wires for 240V. Only consideration was how many appliances were connected to the same source of power. I had bought 220V. It also comes in 110V. I do not have a hotwayer tank system where it was installed. So I use electric currant to heat water for every use of hot water. You can chose to use room temoerature water without using power. the flow is good, but as you increase the flow the water does not get enough time to heat. but for me, using the hot water as per my likeness, it was hot enough and even hotter with a conformable flow of water. My technician used normal electrical house wires for 240V. Only consideration was how many appliances were connected to the same source of power. I had bought 220V. It also comes in 110V. I do not have a hotwayer tank system where it was installed. So I use electric currant to heat water for every use of hot water. You can chose to use room temoerature water without using power. the flow is good, but as you increase the flow the water does not get enough time to heat. but for me, using the hot water as per my likeness, it was hot enough and even hotter with a conformable flow of water.
2277637
Better to get a Mr. Heater Buddy for heat, runs on LP, has CO shut off safety. You can use the little LP cartridges, or you can use a 20 with an additional hose. Electric heat is power intensive, and you would have to look at the amps drawn to see how long your deep cells will last, and the wattage required by the heater to decide what inverter to use. Your batteries will indeed drain pretty fast with electric heat.
306505
Hi Art, I had an electrician run a wire and install an outdoor, weather protection covered, outdoor GFI power outlet on exterior wall. I plugged the heater's power cord into it. Don't hard wire it, as it's handy to be able to unplug the heater when you need to service or repair it. Make it a "two gang" outlet so you can use the other socket for other purposes. If you're asking about a back-up source of power in the event of a complete power outage, I'm not sure what to use for that. Amazon reviews mention using power back-up that's used for computers. The controller was included in box. It looks like a remote, but it is wired to the heater. The wire are not long enough to attach the controller to the wall. So it's just dangling under the heater. I'll need to figure out a way to attach it to the wall.