Has anyone used multiple applications on a wooden kitchen table? Does the table still have some "residue" of the wax on it?
1701259
I have used this three times on my butcher block. It takes a couple hours for it to absorb, and then the wood feels silky, not greasy or waxy.
971205
I have only used the Boston wax on hardwood floors and on furniture (no white spots). Don't know about getting rid of those; However, I would get rid of the spots before applying the wax and recommend very light application of wax followed by lots of light buffing with the grain.
554685
The wood does not appear to be treated with anything, however, I have had mine in my kitchen for over a year and see no problems. It has gotten wet, but as long as it is just wiped off appears to have no effect and I see no stains or changes. Suppose you could cover it with a polyurethane once you got it. Very pleased with mine.
443780
I use it on any of my would projects. I make furniture and accessories from reclaimed items. Any items that may be used for food i always use beeswax for the finish. It should work well on the table as long as it is a smooth surface. For a more durable surface I would suggest at least 3 coats with a good buffing in between coats. To make the buffing easier on the table surface I use an orbital buffer, the type you would use to buff a car. I have one that I use just for my furniture projects. It is a small one put out by Turtle Wax. Here is a link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251425474054?lpid=82 Good luck with your project. I use it on any of my would projects. I make furniture and accessories from reclaimed items. Any items that may be used for food i always use beeswax for the finish. It should work well on the table as long as it is a smooth surface. For a more durable surface I would suggest at least 3 coats with a good buffing in between coats. To make the buffing easier on the table surface I use an orbital buffer, the type you would use to buff a car. I have one that I use just for my furniture projects. It is a small one put out by Turtle Wax. Here is a link.... » Read More I use it on any of my would projects. I make furniture and accessories from reclaimed items. Any items that may be used for food i always use beeswax for the finish. It should work well on the table as long as it is a smooth surface. For a more durable surface I would suggest at least 3 coats with a good buffing in between coats. To make the buffing easier on the table surface I use an orbital buffer, the type you would use to buff a car. I have one that I use just for my furniture projects. It is a small one put out by Turtle Wax. Here is a link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251425474054?lpid=82 Good luck with your project. « Show Less
518021
no it is not food grade wax. i use it on furniture. read the lable thanks helen
2132130
I just used the board cream. It's kind of frustrating though because I used it regularly and my board warped anyway...even though I made sure it never got put in the dishwasher. I would still recommend it. It moisterizes the wood really well.
1313898
Definitely NO !!!! This wax is a paste wax which remains solvent when applied so you can spread it, but it dries very hard. . If it dries in a crack or crevice, it will leave a hard white residue which is hard to remove. I only use this wax for smooth finish woodwork. I sometimes have to use a toothpick to remove from corner joins etc. I love this wax for furniture final finishing and have used it for many years. GJR (Woodsworker)
1380434
I've had good luck using it on all types of dirt, smudges, and smears that have appeared on my granite countertops, including greasy film from cooking foods that splattered grease. I had a one filmy residue that took more than one application of Granite Gold Daily. I tried several times to spray and wipe, but the residue would not wipe away, so I let it sit for a while and that did the trick for me. I truly do not know what it was on my counter top - it was more like a waxy residue, but on grease spills, even after they have dried, it has been great.
200998
It leaves TONS of residue the can NEVER be removed!! I tried everything to get it off of my beautiful wooden coffee table from goof off, orange clean, ammonia, hot water and soap and good old elbow grease. It has been over a year since I removed it and the nasty residue (now black) is still on my table. It will be there until I give up and get a new coffee table.
1524832
Yes, I love this stuff and have applied it to several table tops. I usually pour it right on the table surface and hand rub it with an old t shirt. Coats go on quick and thin but they also dry quick. After 20 minutes or so it is ready for another coat. Also, if the wood you tested on was not smooth or maybe not stained yet (bare wood) it may absorb faster or soak into the pores more than on a stained piece. This finish is nice for when you have the color you want and don't want it to change after you apply the finish coat. Polyurethane is bad about changing the color after application. This will leave a nice sheen finish with minimal color change. Like I said each coat is thin, but I honesty prefer this method compared to thick coats. After two coats hand sand the surface very lightly with a high grit (320 -400) to smooth it out. After this the next few coats go on very nicely.
1509051
Not in my experience. It leaves no residue what so ever. You might want to mix it with some of the clear museum gel, neither of which have left an residue. I have some pieces on cherrywood, glass, oak mantle, and other surfaces -no residue.
255342
I don't think that would be a good idea unless you put on a couple of coats of polyurethane. I am using it as a kitchen table and only put on some John Boos wax. It is very well made.
2118381
Absolutely! It's great quality stuff and their should be plenty enough of wax for a 20 dining tables and more! Just apply a nice layer of the wax in the table and rub it in let it sit for 20 minutes than polish it off with a clean tag than if you want apply another coat and repeat the process and it will protect the table nicely and make it more resistant to water and dirt!
474150
I have used Scan Care clean & feed a professional type teak oil. Works well on wooden surfaces.
1198830
Hi Ingrid: The finish on my table seems impervious to nearly everything. When I clean it, which is not often, I've used Lysol spray, Windex spray and plain old soap and water.
1268460
That seems to be the case in my experience on a butcher block table that's only been treated with this product. I wipe it down with a damp cloth frequently and it leaves no marks or stains. I think the more you treat the surface regularly, the more protective it seems to be in my case.
2028864
I have used this wax on over 100 collector grade firearms and it works great on both the wood and on the metal. It definitely puts the shine on the surface as well as protects against moisture and dust. I would think it would work great to preserve the finish on wooden furniture.