What is the difference between drill mode and driver mode?
1707963
driver mode is when you want to drive yourbit into the concrete and make it work like a small jack hammer and drill mode is for ordinary holes in wood mostly!!
1707964
When you are using a hammer drill, the drill mode only drills, but the driver mode hammers (like a jack hammer). Most hammer drills have a drill driver mode where it both hammers and drills for drilling in masonry.
1707965
In the drill mode, the clutch is locked. In the driver mode (the numbered settings) the clutch mechanism will stop the motor when the torque for the current setting is reached. In the hammer setting the drill bit is "hammered" into the material, as with a chisel, to chip-away the material (usually masonry) as the bit rotates. The hammer mode is usually used with carbide-tipped masonry bits.
1707966
There is no difference, depends on whether you have a drill bit in or a driver bit(Phillips, socket, torx, etc). The only different mode that drill has is hammer which is great if you are using a masonry bit to drill into concrete.
1707967
drill mode is smooth normal drilling,and driver mode is like hammer driver harder down into what you go threw faster
1678820
No there is not a level on drill or the driver,I have corded drill with two levels on it.If I want straight whole I use one of my drill guides when straight whole is needed.
44527
There is no pedal included with this drill. You control the speed and direction of the drill on the front of it. You can control the power on the drill itself or the power source.
1011472
to my knowledge the only difference between the two is the actual drill bit itself, so the holders should be the same.
1064335
Actually, the numbers are clutch settings that help you avoid sinking a screw too deep or tightening it too much. The higher the number the more force (torque) applied before disengaging the clutch. When it does disengage, you will know because it will make a rapid clicking or ratcheting sound. The drill bit symbol indicates you want to drill and want the clutch function disabled so the clutch will not disengage no matter how much torque is applied.
385084
It switches from hammer to drive/regular. Also compact with excellent torque and power. Best drill I've ever used for sure.
2177026
The long end has a 1/4" hex drive that you chuck into your drill or driver. 1/4" hex drive bits go into the other end, which has a magnet to retain them. You will need a small screwdriver or punch to remove short bits (1" long).
1479586
Impact driver and hammer drill has been updated. Xdt08 impact driver. Lxph06 hammer drill. Also picture is outdated.
304196
Drill/Driver Chuck: 3/8". Impact Driver Chuck: 1/4" Quick connect HexI answered the same question before. Additional Info:Variable speed (0-800 RPM)1300 IN/LB torque, 20VMy view: great product
811759
The forward dial switch is for the clutch setting, the back one switches from standard drill to hammer setting. So, yes you can turn it on or off. Best drill I've ever owned.
1418156
The drill (the larger tool) has no hammer action. The smaller unit is an impact driver only and its action cannot be turned off
1568058
Who doesn't know the answer to variable speed trigger? This drill/driver has variable speed in both low and high speed. I have owned all brands of drills and for it's size and battery life it is far the best drill I have owned. I am not lying I bet I have put in 10,000 screws with it.
1850428
This takes hex drive bits and drivers. I already had everything I needed but I did a little research for you. Black & Decker has a "71-973 Quick Connect 30 Piece Drilling and Screwdriving Set" for $19.99 Amazon Prime. This is probably all a casual user of this Hitachi driver would need.
1259052
I only own the DT01W and it is a good compact driver. From what I read on Makita's site the FD01W is both a driver and a drill. The link for the two tools is below. http://www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=DT01Whttp://www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=FD01W
406396
No. However, this drill is not direct drive. The chuck shaft is mounted above the motor rotor and a gear drives the chuck shaft. It stops rotating quickly. I just finished a pair of oak cradles, each with 28 spindles and 40 screws. I used this drill to drill the 112 spindle and 80 screw holes with countersinks. The drilled performed flawlessly.
118943
A really great answer to the screw issue is to have an older, battery powered drill for use as a driver. This way, you don't have to keep changing bits. I keep my old B&D; 12V for just that. Drill the holes with the Dewalt, drive the screws with the battery powered drill. Saves a lot of time. BUT, if you're going to do big lag bolt driving, I'd get a dedicated driver. Otherwise, you'll burn up your drills or hurt your arms.
1126649
A drill is just driven around by the motor, usually with some ability to control the speed with the trigger. An impact driver is "hammered around", like an air tool that removes lug nuts from an automobile or truck wheel. Often nuts are very tight or are corroded in place, so the impact will break them lose. I have a normal drill and an impact driver. Both take the same 1/4" shank bits as well as drill bits. I favor the impact driver when drilling stucco to install anchors for stuff I want on the house. For most jobs I use the regular drill. I don't often need the impact driver to remove nuts, but it sure helps when I need it. (A third tool is a hammer drill, which is more substantial, uses special concrete bits and chisels, and can make holes in concrete walls and slabs quickly.)