Will use pump to recirculate hot water in my home and keep the water temp near 110. Will connect to 1/2 copper lines in and out. Right pump ?
1691749
I circulate water in 3/4 lines in a closed loop, radiant system using this pump. Installed 1st one 6 yrs ago and have had no problems.
1691750
These pumps usually have 3/4 pipe fittings. Don't see why you couldn't use a reducer. We circulate water from a wood burning furnace,constant even temp. Hope this helps, good luck
2080844
The manual indicates under the Caution section "Do not install on hot water supply lines. The maximum operating water temperatures of this filer system is 100degrees F" I am assuming that after that the filter will not work as intended.
876173
Resistance of the heater, R = (240 V)^2 / 5500 W = 10.47 ohm Current draw, I = V/R = (110 V) / (10.47 ohm) = 10.50 amp Heating Power at 110 V, P = (110 V)^2 / (10.47 ohm) = 1155 W, 21% of rated power. Normal wiring will be fine, just make sure its rated above 10.5 amp, 14 AWG or thicker should be sufficient. A standard 15 amp circuit will work, but your water will heat up slowly, 7.6 seconds per gallon per degree Fahrenheit At 240 V your heat up rate would be 1.6 seconds per gallon per degree Fahrenheit
1810481
I have a 3/4 horsepower GE pool pump sending water to a heat sync that is connected to my furnace. will this pump replace the GE pump? I am hoping this pump would be much more silent than replacing the old pump.
1943744
Unless you're an engineer who likes doing flow dynamics equations (I am &#128521;), the GPM really isn't that important. This is a recirculating pump, NOT an evacuation pump. Less is better as more than adequate generates high electric usage. But for the layman, here's a simple answer. I have a 7,000 Sq ft house, 2 stories 30' high to roof. The the Laing LH08100092 is able to placed at the farthest point away from the water heater, upstairs in a bedroom. That little quiet running electric pump is able to pull the water 100' horizontally and 25' vertically and deliver almost instant hot water. Now the question is does your requirements EXCEED these conditions? BTW, I leave my pump on 24/7 even though it comes with an on/off timer. The amount of amps that it draws is negligible. The only time I turn it off is when my house is unoccupied for a long duration.
2276131
Yes, that should be all you need if you are tapping into a copper water line. You could also use some fittings to Tee off of an existing cold line. It appears that the filter has 1/4 inch pipe thread on the inlet and outlet, so you'll need a couple 1/4" pipe x 1/4" compression fittings. Be sure to get the ferrels and inserts for using with plastic tubing. When I installed mine I used a Tee after the filter and ran the second line to my ice maker. This is a beautifully made faucet that looks great and works really smooth.
548270
The pump circulates hot water in a closed loop system. If your house was not originally plumbed for hot water circulation, it would probably be best to hire a reputable plumber and have it professionally installed.
143783
Yes. As the connections are standard 110 AC, you can connect any brand (non variable) pumps.
2197691
It will work, but DON'T do it. You will lose the efficiency of your tankless system, and most manufacturers will void or reduce your warrantee if you configure their product with a recirculation pump. If you are still in need of a remedy for the so-called "Cold water Sandwich", you will need to get a flow sensor, a 30 second timer and a high velocity pump appropriate for your configuration. When there is a call for hot water, the pump kicks on for 20-40 seconds and then shuts off. This approach returns the cold water in your pipes to your tankless, and then shuts off until the next call. It does not force your unit to cycle 24 x 7. It will work, but DON'T do it. You will lose the efficiency of your tankless system, and most manufacturers will void or reduce your warrantee if you configure their product with a recirculation pump. If you are still in need of a remedy for the so-called "Cold water Sandwich", you will need to get a flow sensor, a 30 second timer and a high velocity pump appropriate for your configuration. When there is a call for hot water, the pump kicks on for 20-40 seconds and then shuts off. This approach returns the cold water in your pipes to your tankless, and then shuts off until the... » Read More It will work, but DON'T do it. You will lose the efficiency of your tankless system, and most manufacturers will void or reduce your warrantee if you configure their product with a recirculation pump. If you are still in need of a remedy for the so-called "Cold water Sandwich", you will need to get a flow sensor, a 30 second timer and a high velocity pump appropriate for your configuration. When there is a call for hot water, the pump kicks on for 20-40 seconds and then shuts off. This approach returns the cold water in your pipes to your tankless, and then shuts off until the next call. It does not force your unit to cycle 24 x 7. « Show Less
1631320
Nomal for this system. I forget how I found it but on theb site it has a nice manual describing the function. You may want to consider using the time clock function and turn the pump off at night. Unless you need hot water at night at least early in the AM you would get cold water.
1762249
The pump is on a timer set by your needs.........It comes with a "Comfort" valve which installs under the sink which is basically the farthest from the water heater. We have found that now the whole home gets hot water extremely fast since the installation of the recirculating pump. Honestly we couldn't be any happier with the system and should have had it installed long ago. It saves on water too.
1803330
I have both single and double valve faucets and it works well for me. Be aware there has to be a return pipe from the plumbing point furthest from the pump. It is not one of those 'passive' systems that recycle water back down the cold water pipe. I found it to be a real quality product.Mark
66444
Not at all, but this means you might not be getting enough juice to the unit. You need a 200 Amp panel, two heavy cables (6/2 and 6/3) running from the unit to the electric panel. And you need to have 2 upgraded breakers at the panel. Also, if you have a lot of electrical usage at any one time (dishwasher running, A/C cranking, TV, and all the lights on), this may strain the system a bit for the short time that you use hot water. And, it also depends on the model that you bought and if that model accommodates the house size and family that you have. I have not had any issues with this unit so far. Then again I live in FL and I never need the water to be all that hot. I keep the temperature setting at 117 degrees and that seems just right. However, I do need to install a descaling system to prevent any scale buildup inside the unit, because FL water is hard water. All part of my master plan. ;O)
991813
I have two of these pumps. Both are used to circulate hot water in a boiler operated RV heating system. Both are very quiet.
959257
As long as your pump runs on 110 volts and does not pull more than 10 amps, (1/2 HP or less).
1645471
It is recommended to wire direct with 10 gauge wire, with 30 amp breaker. If you were to wire a plug in pig tail for an outlet, it would most likely trip the standard 20 amp or 15 amp breaker. It would also decrease the heated water performance of the heater. This unit did not work well for me at my kitchen sink because even with the correct wire gauge and connections, it had to have the low flow restrictor on the fixture to just achieve luke warm water. I went to a 2 Gallon tank point of use heater. It works great with no flow restriction and gets very hot if you set the temp setting higher. It the Reliance brand.
876901
No, when the hot water gets to the temp sensor in the Metlund, it shuts off. You should have the same temperature water in your supply line as in the recirc. line, so you don't need the recirc pump to keep operating. The supply line is sending the same temp hot water to your plumbing fixtures (shower, tub, sink, etc.) The cool water you're sensing in the shower or tub is the cold water in the line that builds up when you start your water flow in the supply line after being off for a period of time.