I have an existing concrete driveway I want to install it in. I need to know what size trench to saw cut width/depth.Should I overcut it and backfil
1699929
Yes definatly over cut it. Makes it a lot easier to fill in. Give yourself at least 3" on each side of the drain. As for the depth you have to adjust it based on the slope of the driveway and the depth of the drain.
1845823
I'm going to answer this because I have looked into it a few times: Probably not. The issue is not the size (there is a larger saw stop model that is definitely will not fit). You want to check the motor location on the sawstop. you always mount the bench dog on the left as you look at the saw from the feed side -I think the issue is the motor on the saw stop is way over on the left as well and would not give you enough space for the router. You might be able to use this on the contractor model. Anyway.. I'm only answering because I recall being disappointed -I won't get my sawstop until next year after I replce the old garage with one large enough for a shop.
832331
This goes pretty deep. But not sure it would go very wide. Its like a blade. I went down the edge of the sidewalk and driveway and it did fine for that.
2075099
Hello Mr. Efficiency! This is Dr. Tech! :) I used a rotozip with a saw attachment cutting on the back side of the adhesive first. Otherwise, you can use a rotary tool or hacksaw with a fine blade. It doesnt take too much pressure to cut. Use a pencil on the back side of the channel to mark the cut. If you use the channel covers , then the cuts dont have to be perfect. Some installers dont like using the covers in order to give it a seamless look but it takes a steady hand and a near-perfect cut. Also, when installing the channel over/under any trimming, use a thin 12inc ruller as a spacer to allow for the channel covers to be installed. Hope this helps!! Good luck :) Hello Mr. Efficiency! This is Dr. Tech! :) I used a rotozip with a saw attachment cutting on the back side of the adhesive first. Otherwise, you can use a rotary tool or hacksaw with a fine blade. It doesnt take too much pressure to cut. Use a pencil on the back side of the channel to mark the cut. If you use the channel covers , then the cuts dont have to be perfect. Some installers dont like using the covers in order to give it a seamless look but it takes a steady hand and a near-perfect cut. Also, when installing the channel over/under any trimming, use a thin 12inc ruller as a spacer... » Read More Hello Mr. Efficiency! This is Dr. Tech! :) I used a rotozip with a saw attachment cutting on the back side of the adhesive first. Otherwise, you can use a rotary tool or hacksaw with a fine blade. It doesnt take too much pressure to cut. Use a pencil on the back side of the channel to mark the cut. If you use the channel covers , then the cuts dont have to be perfect. Some installers dont like using the covers in order to give it a seamless look but it takes a steady hand and a near-perfect cut. Also, when installing the channel over/under any trimming, use a thin 12inc ruller as a spacer to allow for the channel covers to be installed. Hope this helps!! Good luck :) « Show Less
2043985
As long as the siding was relatively flat and there was not framing behind that you also needed to cut through. Depth of cut is less than a standard 2X4. Also you might need to purchase a metal blade so that your cut out would be less jagged. Mine came with two blades. A diamond blade for tile work and a multi-purpose blade.
1051953
I'm not quite sure what the dimensions are on what your trying to cut especially the thickness. I've used mine on travertine which is very hard and it cut just fine. It's all in the blade. I've used this type of blade on a circular type saw and able to cut concrete patio blocks. You would be limited on thickness with this saw.
59067
Go with a trench spike.Get a rail road spikeMachine and refine the materialsBoom.
398114
You cut pretty deep near the concrete into the lawn. Approx 2.5 inches at tops.I don't cut that deep. However, you can and I have tossed up a pretty deep trench when the blade is lowered
493472
You will have to remove the standard insert, the dado blade 'stack' will be too wide. If you want to use an insert it will have to vary for each Dado width you set up. I have never seen any advertisement for inserts of varying widths? Depending on the width of the material you wish to dado you can use your saw without one or make one from a suitable thickness material.
1240329
Hi. CORRECTED ANSWER: I measured the depth on my blade (which is slightly worn) and it is 1-5/16 inch (1.32 inch) for a straight up cut. For an angled cut, it will be less of course. I used it to cut through floor tile with a concrete/metal mesh base layer. There is absolutely no room in the blade guard to try an even slightly larger blade. It is a tight fit. The saw performs well and is easy to control as long as it is used with water flow. I tried to use it dry, and in less then a minute the whole house was filled with a thick cloud of dust.
571651
Mine went into 2-3 inches of concrete like it was butter.....well, almost. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole first and then a 3/8 hole to put in epoxy and a piece of 5/16 allthread rod (4 places) to mount a garden hose reel securely. (Now I don't have to stand on the hose reel to stabilize it......I just crank away.) This is a homeowner's dream ...... but NOT contractor's grade (add a few hundred $ more for a high-quality/use it all day contractor's tool).
1294181
I Cut a 3" X 4" X 8" Concrete Paving Brick in half with one pass, with room to spare. I estimate it will cut close to 4 inches with one pass. Plenty of water is essential for a beautiful cut.
569896
Just my guess, but with a new blade it will get close to 5 inches deep, a lot will depend on soil, hard dirt cannot be to wet, and sand will want to fall back in quicker than you can put in edging...Rick
1845821
I'm going to answer this because I have looked into it a few times: Probably not. The issue is not the size (there is a larger saw stop model that is definitely will not fit). You want to check the motor location on the sawstop. you always mount the bench dog on the left as you look at the saw from the feed side -I think the issue is the motor on the saw stop is way over on the left as well and would not give you enough space for the router. You might be able to use this on the contractor model. Anyway.. I'm only answering because I recall being disappointed -I won't get my sawstop until next year after I replce the old garage with one large enough for a shop. I'm going to answer this because I have looked into it a few times: Probably not. The issue is not the size (there is a larger saw stop model that is definitely will not fit). You want to check the motor location on the sawstop. you always mount the bench dog on the left as you look at the saw from the feed side -I think the issue is the motor on the saw stop is way over on the left as well and would not give you enough space for the router. You might be able to use this on the contractor model. Anyway.. I'm only answering because I recall being disappointed -I won't get my sawstop until... » Read More I'm going to answer this because I have looked into it a few times: Probably not. The issue is not the size (there is a larger saw stop model that is definitely will not fit). You want to check the motor location on the sawstop. you always mount the bench dog on the left as you look at the saw from the feed side -I think the issue is the motor on the saw stop is way over on the left as well and would not give you enough space for the router. You might be able to use this on the contractor model. Anyway.. I'm only answering because I recall being disappointed -I won't get my sawstop until next year after I replce the old garage with one large enough for a shop. « Show Less
1799149
This works great!! the thickness is determined by you, I usually do it about 1/8 inch thick, and the width is size of spagetti or you can cut your own how ever wide you want it.
1573566
I'll see if I can't figure out which of my washers came from this insert, but here's a little advice:It sounds like you're asking so you can determine where to cut the hole for the blade... You'll get a better result with zero-clearance if you don't cut the hole, but rather make the insert, and then raise the blade through the insert itself. This will make the hole perfectly sized and positioned, with no measuring involved.See here:http://youtu.be/lQiiU5W2vHk?t=7m15s
841450
After you buy the saw you will get this size answer. Also it will come with a general purpose ripping blade. The kind of blade best suited for the work you are going to do ........ depends on the kind of work you are going to do. Generally wide blade, few teeth for resawing, thin blade more teeth for cutting curves. Ask this question to the one who knows everything: Google.