The electrical requirements state that a 115 volt (103.5 min, 126.5 max) 60 Hrtz, AC only, 15 amp fused electrical supply is required. On its own circuit. Is this true or would it be ok to use a standard household socket with ground? The electrical requirements state that a 115 volt (103.5 min, 126.5 max) 60 Hrtz, AC only, 15 amp fused electrical supply is required. On its own circuit. Is this true or would it be ok to use a... » Read More The electrical requirements state that a 115 volt (103.5 min, 126.5 max) 60 Hrtz, AC only, 15 amp fused electrical supply is required. On its own circuit. Is this true or would it be ok to use a standard household socket with ground? « Show Less
1723509
I noticed the same thing; so I ordered an adapter for my normal outlets. Didn't need it. It will plug into a normal three prong outlet and on the plug of the AC unit is a breaker....like a hair dryer.
1723510
The requirement is for a standard household electric socket. The A/C should be on a circuit by itself to prevent overloading the circuit when then unit turns on and off.
1723511
I am using a standard outlet, however, there is nothing else plugged into or using power on that specific breaker. If you're unsure about your wiring, you should really ask an electrician.
154475
I have mine plugged into a regular household 3 prong outlet, and it is working just find for me.
2143590
Assuming a normal household outlet, it is protected up to 15 Amps on the whole circuit. This means a max allowable of 1800 watts on the whole circuit. Provided no other devices which exceed 800 watts are used on this circuit, you should be OK.
224520
11.7 Amps; 120VAC, 60Hz Voltage; 1400 Watts. I had to have an electrician put in a '20' dedicated line (because the fuse kept blowing). Since then, it works beautifully. If an extension cord is used, it must be a minimum 14 AWG; three wires with grounding type plug connector and rated not less than 1875 watts. Cord should be no longer than 20 feet in length. Hope this helps!
1474878
A 15 amp grounded circuit can handle 1800 watts. This unit uses 1500 watts. I would not have anything else on the same circuit except perhaps one 100watt light bulb. I found my unit only heated within 3 feet,so I returned it. Maybe I got a lemon,but my heater was not an effective source of heat.
2235479
It does require 115V power, your normal household outlet. The "Power Pod" is the extension if you will. It has three receptacles or plugs on the pod end and the other end (three prong) plugs in to an outlet. Hope that makes sense.
305431
Check out here first:http://www.lampsplus.com/light-bulbs/This lamp takes any type of bulbs that has same interface as the "standard household Incandescent A-type light bulb". On the sticker it says "MAX 15W medium base type A". So if you want to use standard household A-type bulb, maximum power is 15W because the lamp top is made of plastic and high power bulbs will melt the top. I'm using a 60W LED Bi-directional LED bulb from COSTCO and it's fantastic.
959155
Power specifications: 100 - 120VAC at 60HzThe power connected/supplied to this unit needs to be 60 hertz (Hz) and needs to be between 100 volts alternating current (VAC) to 120 volts alternating current. That's the standard power in US homes. If your power environment is something else, you would need a converter that not only converts the voltage but also the frequency if your power is 50 hertz. If your power is direct current (DC) like a car or RV, your converter would also need to convert DC-to-AC.This answer is based on the power specs on the instructions. "100V - 120V / 60Hz" Power specifications: 100 - 120VAC at 60HzThe power connected/supplied to this unit needs to be 60 hertz (Hz) and needs to be between 100 volts alternating current (VAC) to 120 volts alternating current. That's the standard power in US homes. If your power environment is something else, you would need a converter that not only converts the voltage but also the frequency if your power is 50 hertz. If your power is direct current (DC) like a car or RV, your converter would also need to convert DC-to-AC.This answer is based on the power specs on the instructions. "100V - 120V... » Read More Power specifications: 100 - 120VAC at 60HzThe power connected/supplied to this unit needs to be 60 hertz (Hz) and needs to be between 100 volts alternating current (VAC) to 120 volts alternating current. That's the standard power in US homes. If your power environment is something else, you would need a converter that not only converts the voltage but also the frequency if your power is 50 hertz. If your power is direct current (DC) like a car or RV, your converter would also need to convert DC-to-AC.This answer is based on the power specs on the instructions. "100V - 120V / 60Hz" « Show Less
664123
It should be plugged into a 20 amp outlet.You can plug it into a 15 amp outlet but nothing else on the circuit should plugged in, even then you are still pushing over the limits. I bet most people do this though. Not good.
1913698
Not sure I fully understand this question. I am an Electrical Engineer and have two of these units in both my main and summer homes. This is a 220 volt single phase unit. It provides transient protection for a typical home. It also provides phone protection which I do not use. Most homes have two 120VAC lines coming to the home with the transformer center tap providing the neutral/ground. The neutral wire is connected to the building ground inside the main service panel. This unit connects to both 120 VAC buses (through a 220 circuit breaker 30 Amp circuit breaker), the neutral wire, and the building ground (which is also the case of the panel and also connected to the neutral in the main panel). This unit is mounted very close to the panel. This is not for three phase power (if that is the question). This is intended for the typical household power distribution. In my opinion, this is a very good unit with a replaceable module should service be required. The Square D website provides additional information reqarding the energy absorption ratings for the module in the unit.
1214812
Says 120v/60Hz only, MAX 60 w..using the 220v might cause some heat in the wires, but I am not a certified electrician, so this is just an opinion. I was disappointed with the lamp because it has a thin base that goes against the wall, makes it look cheap, and light socket uses a smaller opening,not the standard opening found in lighting receptacles
1749514
No there is nothing special required. You can plug it into a standard 120V outlet.
129637
Hi Joseph, I only paid #19.43 for this item. The cooler didn't come with this adapter, only a car plug in, so YES you do need this in order to plug into a regular household 120V outlet. Look around the amazon site for a lower price for this item, it's worth it.
1740064
Consuming 1450 Watts at 115V it will pull about 12.6 Amps. The typical home circuit breaker is 20 Amps so don't use it on a heavily loaded circuit. Since you will use it outside, make sure you are using GFCI protection.
1082922
Not a normal house electrical socket. It is DC voltage. Normally that would be a battery or the electrical system of a car or boat.You could buy a DC power supply that plugs into a house socket and converts it to DC.
305430
Check out here first: http://www.lampsplus.com/light-bulbs/ This lamp takes any type of bulbs that has same interface as the "standard household Incandescent A-type light bulb". On the sticker it says "MAX 15W medium base type A". So if you want to use standard household A-type bulb, maximum power is 15W because the lamp top is made of plastic and high power bulbs will melt the top. I'm using a 60W LED Bi-directional LED bulb from COSTCO and it's fantastic.
1339099
It's 1500 watts but more importantly, it draws 12.5 amps. Amps are more important. Most home circuits have 15 amp breakers or fuses so there should be nothing else on this circuit but the fan. DO NOT use an extension cord unless it is approved by an electrician. It works well (for me) and doesn't cost a lot to run. When the unit is on and warm, the color on the front screen changes (from black) to a lighter color. The company says this may wear out with use over time. The nice feature is the it has a "tip-over" switch that turns the unit off when it is knocked over. Stand it back up and it will start again. Just be careful about where you place it and that little ones can't get at it. It's 1500 watts but more importantly, it draws 12.5 amps. Amps are more important. Most home circuits have 15 amp breakers or fuses so there should be nothing else on this circuit but the fan. DO NOT use an extension cord unless it is approved by an electrician. It works well (for me) and doesn't cost a lot to run. When the unit is on and warm, the color on the front screen changes (from black) to a lighter color. The company says this may wear out with use over time. The nice feature is the it has a "tip-over" switch that turns the unit off when it is knocked over. Stand it back... » Read More It's 1500 watts but more importantly, it draws 12.5 amps. Amps are more important. Most home circuits have 15 amp breakers or fuses so there should be nothing else on this circuit but the fan. DO NOT use an extension cord unless it is approved by an electrician. It works well (for me) and doesn't cost a lot to run. When the unit is on and warm, the color on the front screen changes (from black) to a lighter color. The company says this may wear out with use over time. The nice feature is the it has a "tip-over" switch that turns the unit off when it is knocked over. Stand it back up and it will start again. Just be careful about where you place it and that little ones can't get at it. « Show Less
2224058
Im not sure to be honest. I use it for my home spa for clients and I just plug it into my normal socket when Im expecting clients, I don't leave it plugged in all the time. It takes about 30 minutes to be completely ready to be used. Hope this helps ;)