I-beam pull up bar: do I drill the I-beam to attach the body(yellow) to the I-beam or these are bolts that press against the surface of the I-beam?
1603950
The bolts just press against the surface. That's one nice thing about this product is it can be moved and doesn't leave any permanent damage where you installed it. It was a little tricky to install because the directions are not real clear. Make sure u tighten each screw a little at a time and just keep going around. It will help keep it even. Works great once installed!
1603951
You don't need to drill into the I beam. It simply pulls into or sandwich itself on the I beam. It's really solid.
1603952
The bolts press down on the upper surfaces of the lower flanges of the I-beam. It is very secure. It installs in a couple of minutes.
1603953
No drilling. The bolts tighten against the beam to hold everything tight. Can be loosened and relocated in minutes.
987062
None, if you don't over torque it. If its a gyp. Bd. Ceiling it might leave a indentation from over torqueing. Try to position it under a beam.if a indentation is made, the pad is about 2"×3"
97340
I believe I used a wrench to pull it up around the bar.... There might be a you tube video about it.
1569163
It's very easy if you just bought them the come with instructions. If you already have them and no instructions the bar has two lift tabs on each bar lift them up put one end of the bar into any one side of the rail and due the same for the other side line up with the little arrows on top of the rails push down the tabs and your ready to so the second one the same way.
381491
The reading might be slightly off if your using the extension bar after the Torque Meter; as the extension bar would be twisting. However I would expect the difference to be very small. In most bolted joints we are only after achieving 60-70% of the bolt allowable tension and that all the bolts are tensioned the same. Basically to clamp the joint together by friction. Therefore I would personally not worry unless your using a stupidly long extension bar after the torque meter. My thoughts anyway.
1555720
I used a 1/4" socket wrench with the hex drive bit to install the mounting bolts. If I recall, the threaded fasteners supplied have a thread-locking compound applied. I simply tightened the fasteners fully - without really "reefing" on them.They've remained in place an functional ever since (installed 6/14).
526701
For the greatest safety I would try to mount the bar so you can install a support bolt thru the bottom 2X3 and into the I support itself. You will probably have to purchase longer mounting hardware which is recommended anyway. Hopefully the bar will line up with the joist perfect so you can drill into the I support on both ends. OR, you could install a let's say 2X6 across the I-Beams (from I-beam to I-beam) and mount the bar to that with carriage bolting. Hope that helps ;)
234896
I can find nothing in the installation manual about pre-drilled hole for the bars.
326123
It is a nut and bolt piece that holds the sliding action. If you were to use a different method of locking the bar in place and did not have a heavy television attached it would not be difficult to raise and lower. Though the television will stop the bar from raising if it is attached to a finished ceiling. The top of the television will hit the ceiling before the bar reaches the highest setting.
2151990
I used a 3/8" bit for the through holes in the beam. The bolts are 3/8" so you have to tap them through with a hammer. I recommend that you use a drill with a built in bubble level in order to get a straight hole. That's a pretty long hole to drill by eye. Also you may have to do a lot of sanding on the 4x4's and 4x6 in order to get them into the brackets. Lumber dimensions vary even within each piece. I uses a 5" orbital sander and it still took a while. Good luck!
697159
according to the build sheet they are 2-1/16" at the point of contact to the i-beam
994632
Hello well this pull up bar has a nice coat of paint but there's 2 bolts that holds the bar and they only come with a nylon Nut but there's no o ring seal or something like that, eventually water will get inside the 2 main supports and that will be the end, try to contact the manufacturer maybe they have something that might work for you. Good luck
469891
Use the screws. Make sure that the holes you drill for them are squarely in the beam. I did not use the anchors
1766364
Not sure what you mean. You get the bars that need to be screwed to two beams with the right distance between them (your own construction...mine is indoor)
626266
I self installed. Located beam in ceiling of my garage to make sure the lag screws are securely in the beam, then just screwed the mount to beam, and after installing TRX strap hung on strap safely to make sure it was firmly attached and held my weight.
1507027
my cross bars are the same as yours and all i did was to drill holes that are the same as the ones in the bike rack fasteners and installed the u bolts.
1279455
bolts run across the top of the frame and under. metal plates are provided to bolt into from the back side. i did not use them because my trailer had a swivel mount welded on and i just removed the jacks swivel and keeper and it fit right on my adapter. i have used these jacks for many years on many different boat trailers. i highly recommend them.