How do I adjust the saw blade? It is off and the instructions are terrible for explaining exactly which hex bolt adjusts the blade to make it square.
1605916
I don't know. My husband always adjusted the saw blade and we are no longer together. Sorry.
1605917
There is a socket head cap screw on the right side of the bevel gauge. It is embedded in the bevel mechanism housing. The tool that comes with the saw has a socket on one end to take the blade on and off and a hex key on the other that fits this socket screw. Loosen the lever on the back of the saw and then adjust this screw in and out to get the blade square. There are also hex head bolts to the left and right of the bevel gauge that determine the extents of the bevel feature. If you can't get the blade all the way to 45 tilting left or right, then adjust these screws.
1605918
If you need to adjust the blade square to the fence, loosen all of the bolts but leave one end a bit tight. This allows you to pivot the fence on this one bolt to find square and the you can tighten down the rest.You will find that sawdust builds up in the housing surrounding the spring that holds the blade in an upright position. As time goes by, the blade will get lower and lower and the guard will get higher and higher. It's easiest to clean this area from behind the saw with a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire and a vacuum or air hose. If this is not done regularly, you end up with a very dangerous situation - an unguarded blade. If you need to adjust the blade square to the fence, loosen all of the bolts but leave one end a bit tight. This allows you to pivot the fence on this one bolt to find square and the you can tighten down the rest.You will find that sawdust builds up in the housing surrounding the spring that holds the blade in an upright position. As time goes by, the blade will get lower and lower and the guard will get higher and higher. It's easiest to clean this area from behind the saw with a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire and a vacuum or air hose. If this is not done regularly, you end up... » Read More If you need to adjust the blade square to the fence, loosen all of the bolts but leave one end a bit tight. This allows you to pivot the fence on this one bolt to find square and the you can tighten down the rest.You will find that sawdust builds up in the housing surrounding the spring that holds the blade in an upright position. As time goes by, the blade will get lower and lower and the guard will get higher and higher. It's easiest to clean this area from behind the saw with a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire and a vacuum or air hose. If this is not done regularly, you end up with a very dangerous situation - an unguarded blade. « Show Less
1459772
It isn't easy, but it is doable. On the underside of the table there is an adjustment block. Best way to locate is check the illustrated parts manual which is on the Makita site. Loosen the two bolts and move the block and tighten. This appears to change .010 to .012 of an inch so should solve your problem.
1333969
The blades are small, sharp bits of steel attached at intervals along the chain. They do not come off. The chain is pulled along the bar by the motor. It is dangerous to operate the chainsaw if the chain is not properly tightened. And it is normal for it to become loose if you are using it for fifteen minutes or more. If the chain gets loose during a cutting project, tighten it with the combo flat head screwdriver/hex wrench that came with the owner's manual, or find the right size crescent wrench and any flat head screwdriver. The two-part adjustment is on the bar. One nut adjusts tension, the other deals with slack, like a cassette player. Turn one, then the other, until your chain is snug against your bar. Then tighten both adjustments with the wrench. And remember that the links of the chain have ball bearings that need to be oiled frequently by pressing the bar oil button while the motor pulls the chain about, but not while sawing logs. Hope this helps. Merry Christmas.
1662638
The guides,both upper and lower should be loose when you first receive the saw. It is necessary in order to correctly align the blade. Band saws always come from the factory needing proper aligning and fine tuning. You will need to set it up with the intended blade square it to the table both vertical and horizontal , making sure all of the guides are adjusted properly, guards in place,etc. Start by setting it up and getting it level it will make the rest easier. Youtube search you will find lots of tips, there is much to learn. Out of four band saws my Jet is the easiest to keep in alignment.Best of luck , it's probably a keeper and everyone goes thru a learning curve with band saws not just you.Don The guides,both upper and lower should be loose when you first receive the saw. It is necessary in order to correctly align the blade. Band saws always come from the factory needing proper aligning and fine tuning. You will need to set it up with the intended blade square it to the table both vertical and horizontal , making sure all of the guides are adjusted properly, guards in place,etc. Start by setting it up and getting it level it will make the rest easier. Youtube search you will find lots of tips, there is much to learn. Out of four band saws my Jet is the easiest to keep in... » Read More The guides,both upper and lower should be loose when you first receive the saw. It is necessary in order to correctly align the blade. Band saws always come from the factory needing proper aligning and fine tuning. You will need to set it up with the intended blade square it to the table both vertical and horizontal , making sure all of the guides are adjusted properly, guards in place,etc. Start by setting it up and getting it level it will make the rest easier. Youtube search you will find lots of tips, there is much to learn. Out of four band saws my Jet is the easiest to keep in alignment.Best of luck , it's probably a keeper and everyone goes thru a learning curve with band saws not just you.Don « Show Less
1567637
Nope. The idea is to make the saw blade cut are your required angle relative to the work surface. Even if that surface is not level. So you first set the Angle Guage on the sufface and press Zero. Then place the Guage on the blade to adjust for the angle (true angle relative to the surface). I've found that the adjustment markings on my table saw and chop saw are not accurate enough to eliminate minor gaps in longer pieces like picture frame corners or door fronts. Very nice little device.
1193343
I searched around the internet to find the answer. To loosen the bevel clamp lever (the black plastic handle on the back for tilting the saw left and right) you need to turn the handle clockwise, the opposite of a regular screw, and also opposite of what the manual indicates. Hope that helps.
1951680
No expertise here... I'm a woodworker. But I find the saw tight, sufficiently powered for the small blade and easy to use. My guess is that you may want to build a jig for exact positioning. Hope this is of some helpDLH
810011
I had no instructions. I uses some scrap wood and adjusted the drill setting until I had what I wanted. You may be able to find some information from the manufacturer on line.
414938
Apparently it got out of adjustment. You have to adjust and lock down the adjustment before using the saw. It's the same as a regular chain saw but electric. Same care must be taken.
2012239
There is a bolt on each side. The blades have three position holes. Loosen the bolt and move to a different hole.
456050
Make sure you are centered on the arbor. I had this issue as well at first, but the blade was off center.
1109493
On the body of the saw, near the point where the chain goes beside the cover over the motor, there is a round knob. Rotate the black handle out so that you can turn it. This knob is used to make small adjustments to the tension on the chain. Turn the knob one way to loosen the chain and the opposite direction to tighten the chain.
161192
I noticed it in all the detents which is why I returned it. I called customer support and they said it's normal and that no one else complained so they told me to "adapt to the saw". With my saw, I could move it at least a half degree in either direction when it was in the detent. I looked underneath and noticed the detent lever is made of plastic and it flexes easily so that was the problem. I couldn't stand the thought of spending over $500 on a saw that wasn't accurate or repeatable so I returned it. IMO, it's a MAJOR flaw. I don't care what anyone says. Companies are trying to save costs wherever they can and it's affecting quality. I would have gladly paid an extra $10 for a metal detent lever.
31205
Not this model number, it uses the screws on the saw. The screws can be adjusted through the holes already provided.
1623201
I have a Craftsman router table. Bought it at Xmas for $149. No complaint. This is just until I can build one on the table saw.For height adjustment, you have to reach down and unlock the motor, make coarse adjustment. Then make fine adjustment on top.For bit change, to avoid having to use 2 wrenches, I bought a Musclechuck. With this, I can change bit with 1 hex key, all above the table.
1163470
it uses different sizes of stones. fix it to the chain on your saw, not hard.
733607
The black thing on the end screws right on the dremel. you need to take off the end of the dremel tool as for the saw you have to use your own tools to replace it.