Did I connect it right? I put this between the solar panel and my charge controller like red to red black to black, and it seems wrong because it isn't showing any amps, it just says in the upper right 16.65 V and lower left says 16.30 Vm, and even when I face one panel so it caught more sun, nothing changed. I did notice theres some heavy oxidation on one of the ends of the wire going into my panels, so, maybe it's not connecting? I've have 335 watts worth of panels, and one is facing the sun right now,one is partially catching it, the others are in the shade so to speak. But I noticed even when the sun wasn't shining on any, but rising, the controller showed the batteries were charging. Did I connect it right? I put this between the solar panel and my charge controller like red to red black to black, and it seems wrong because it isn't showing any amps, it just says in the... » Read More Did I connect it right? I put this between the solar panel and my charge controller like red to red black to black, and it seems wrong because it isn't showing any amps, it just says in the upper right 16.65 V and lower left says 16.30 Vm, and even when I face one panel so it caught more sun, nothing changed. I did notice theres some heavy oxidation on one of the ends of the wire going into my panels, so, maybe it's not connecting? I've have 335 watts worth of panels, and one is facing the sun right now,one is partially catching it, the others are in the shade so to speak. But I noticed even when the sun wasn't shining on any, but rising, the controller showed the batteries were charging. « Show Less
1581546
my understanding is that the source side must be the most positive than the load side.also the measured current is only on the negative side (black wires).even with zero current the meter will still read zero provided you have at least 4v between the red and black load lines
531835
I suggest reviewing the manual and contacting the manufacturer. Are you actually drawing any load? You have to have a load connected to see any amp draw. Thanks.
1581547
The meter is not symetrical, and one side must "face" the source of power, as outlined in the directions. Double check you have that right. From your description, I don't know how you have the panels wired. I would suggest you test only one panel at a time, and see if it produces 80% of it's rated power output when in direct sunlight and when the system is under a load. You could have a defective panel, a short, etc. (I'm assuming that you have already tested the meter using just the battery and a load and know it's okay)
1581548
I'm guessing that the solar panel is the "Source" and the charge controller is the "Load". If so, if the panels are indeed putting out 335 watts, and the voltage is 16.65V, you should be drawing 20 Amps. Perhaps it is a poor connection, or the charge controller is not allowing any current to pass through. If you have a standard multi meter, you could measure the current by allowing the red wires to feed through the meter. (be careful, many meters can't measure more then 10A, and if indeed 20A are flowing, that could burn out the meter.)I use my Watt's Up meter to measure drain from Li-Po batteries connected up to brushless motors and it works great. I'm guessing that the solar panel is the "Source" and the charge controller is the "Load". If so, if the panels are indeed putting out 335 watts, and the voltage is 16.65V, you should be drawing 20 Amps. Perhaps it is a poor connection, or the charge controller is not allowing any current to pass through. If you have a standard multi meter, you could measure the current by allowing the red wires to feed through the meter. (be careful, many meters can't measure more then 10A, and if indeed 20A are flowing, that could burn out the meter.)I use my Watt's Up... » Read More I'm guessing that the solar panel is the "Source" and the charge controller is the "Load". If so, if the panels are indeed putting out 335 watts, and the voltage is 16.65V, you should be drawing 20 Amps. Perhaps it is a poor connection, or the charge controller is not allowing any current to pass through. If you have a standard multi meter, you could measure the current by allowing the red wires to feed through the meter. (be careful, many meters can't measure more then 10A, and if indeed 20A are flowing, that could burn out the meter.)I use my Watt's Up meter to measure drain from Li-Po batteries connected up to brushless motors and it works great. « Show Less
1581549
I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your batteries stay cool when charging/discharging. Good luck. I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your... » Read More I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your batteries stay cool when charging/discharging. Good luck. « Show Less
1064911
Yes, I had the same problem. The two smaller wires are the supply voltage for the meter itself. Red is positive, black is negative. I used 5 Volts DC to power mine. The bigger wires are red, blue and black. Red is the voltage sense, blue and black are for the current sense. Black should be connected directly to ground. The blue then becomes the ground for whatever device you are sensing the current on. So, the ground side of the load goes into the blue wire (then through a shunt resistor) and then out of the black wire to ground. Hope this helps! :)
1873946
I think you need to check your controller specs, but I know some controllers may just shut off to prevent damage. Also note these panels are higher voltage which may not be compatible with your controller. I bought a charge controller that won't work with these because the voltage may go up to 45V on these panels. Now I run two of these with the Morningstar MPPT 45A charge controller. Morningstar has a calculator on their site that will confirm whether a planned setup will work with their charge controllers or not. I am planning on adding one more panel to my setup. The 45A MPPT charge controller can handle 3 of these panels. Good luck! I think you need to check your controller specs, but I know some controllers may just shut off to prevent damage. Also note these panels are higher voltage which may not be compatible with your controller. I bought a charge controller that won't work with these because the voltage may go up to 45V on these panels. Now I run two of these with the Morningstar MPPT 45A charge controller. Morningstar has a calculator on their site that will confirm whether a planned setup will work with their charge controllers or not. I am planning on adding one more panel to my setup. The 45A MPPT charge... » Read More I think you need to check your controller specs, but I know some controllers may just shut off to prevent damage. Also note these panels are higher voltage which may not be compatible with your controller. I bought a charge controller that won't work with these because the voltage may go up to 45V on these panels. Now I run two of these with the Morningstar MPPT 45A charge controller. Morningstar has a calculator on their site that will confirm whether a planned setup will work with their charge controllers or not. I am planning on adding one more panel to my setup. The 45A MPPT charge controller can handle 3 of these panels. Good luck! « Show Less
1647260
Are you getting the red flashing light indicating it's solar charging? Since it sounds like you have a problem, you should contact the company? I would do that immediately and see what they say.
2033695
I have read somewhere you should connect the inverter to the battery. Because of the potential load you are pulling could exceed the charge controller. I am just passing on what i read just got my panels will be installing them soon
2055357
You always need a Solar Charge Controller between the solar panel and the battery. This particular solar panel comes with a solar charge controller, so you don't need to buy one. You will need to connect it. The controller that came with the panel I bought is not high quality. I purchased a separate charge controller. The charge controller needs to be rated for 12 V battery and at least 2 A (amps). There are many available. How you connect to the battery depends on the battery terminals. I need reliability, so I bought ring crimp-connectors that fit the clamps on the battery.
1152738
I've not had to hook it up in any particular order. My issue was that the connecting plus from the solar panel didn't fit the controller and had to be cut off and shoved in then tightened down. Also the flashing red lights are confusing. Can fee hard to differentiate between when it's hired up incorrectly and when it's notchanging the batteries due to insufficient sunlight. Would have been better to have had more colors for the warning lights than just red.
467336
to get an actual through-put reading, you will need to disconnect the feed from the panel(s) to the controller, then disconnect from the controller from the batteries. after that re-connect the solar feed to the controller and measure the voltage on the disconnected lines to the batteries. you must do it in this sequence. i had mine for about two years and it quit working. naturally, the controller was the last part of the system i checked. i went back to a seven amp controller for my two 55 watt panels. i have three batteries that charge quite well and provides light in the downstairs plus it recharges all of my battery operated devices - tools and so on. good luck! to get an actual through-put reading, you will need to disconnect the feed from the panel(s) to the controller, then disconnect from the controller from the batteries. after that re-connect the solar feed to the controller and measure the voltage on the disconnected lines to the batteries. you must do it in this sequence. i had mine for about two years and it quit working. naturally, the controller was the last part of the system i checked. i went back to a seven amp controller for my two 55 watt panels. i have three batteries that charge quite well and provides light in the downstairs plus... » Read More to get an actual through-put reading, you will need to disconnect the feed from the panel(s) to the controller, then disconnect from the controller from the batteries. after that re-connect the solar feed to the controller and measure the voltage on the disconnected lines to the batteries. you must do it in this sequence. i had mine for about two years and it quit working. naturally, the controller was the last part of the system i checked. i went back to a seven amp controller for my two 55 watt panels. i have three batteries that charge quite well and provides light in the downstairs plus it recharges all of my battery operated devices - tools and so on. good luck! « Show Less
1318351
The instructions doesn't give enough explanation. I called the company for my inverter and asked if solar is compatible with their inverter hooked up to the charge controller. They said to keep the inverter connected to the battery. The only thing I can think of is using a 12 volt light or a small apliance could be connected directly to it instead of using the battery power. If a 12 volt light is connected directly you are taking advantage of the solar imediatly. If the same light was connected to the battery instead, the charge controller doesn't let the solar charge the battery until it drops to a certain voltage. So solar panel isn't being used to its full advantage. The instructions doesn't give enough explanation. I called the company for my inverter and asked if solar is compatible with their inverter hooked up to the charge controller. They said to keep the inverter connected to the battery. The only thing I can think of is using a 12 volt light or a small apliance could be connected directly to it instead of using the battery power. If a 12 volt light is connected directly you are taking advantage of the solar imediatly. If the same light was connected to the battery instead, the charge controller doesn't let the solar charge the battery until it... » Read More The instructions doesn't give enough explanation. I called the company for my inverter and asked if solar is compatible with their inverter hooked up to the charge controller. They said to keep the inverter connected to the battery. The only thing I can think of is using a 12 volt light or a small apliance could be connected directly to it instead of using the battery power. If a 12 volt light is connected directly you are taking advantage of the solar imediatly. If the same light was connected to the battery instead, the charge controller doesn't let the solar charge the battery until it drops to a certain voltage. So solar panel isn't being used to its full advantage. « Show Less
1733860
I used mine connected to the cigarette lighter and my understanding is that the blue LED illuminates when the solar panel is exposed to the sun and therefore producing power...that is indeed the way it worked for me...until the entire unit failed within a year and too late to return for a refund. Maybe I got a bad one, maybe it's a poorly-made unit. I have not since tried to find a replacement but probably should.
567128
Without seeing the schematic for the hook up, it is hard to advise you. There should be a charge input, that would go to the solar panel. There should be a load, that should be the device you are running, and there should be a battery connection, which is of course the battery. Make sure you observe the correct polarities on all of them. They should me marked + and -. If you are not sure, use a volt-ohm-meter to check.
712395
What exactly are you asking? We hooked them up by the instructions. You need to buy the controller separately. They seem to be working properly. They have a red light that is on all the time so the solar is working. If the battery is totally dead it will not charge. If the battery is good it will keep it good and charged. Any other questions please ask.
1652331
Robbin: Sorry may not be able to help you here.. I've looked at the pictures and information of the Yeti and cannot confirm what is needed to hook the solar panel to it. I can only mention that I have had this particular solar panel up and running for 2 years and it still going strong. However you hook it up, please be sure that some type of charge control is used. The Yeti may have an internal one but I doubt it. That solar panel puts out about 1.9 amps of current in strong sunlight and without charge control could overcharge any battery pack hooked to it. Sorry I can't be of more help....Phillip Robbin: Sorry may not be able to help you here.. I've looked at the pictures and information of the Yeti and cannot confirm what is needed to hook the solar panel to it. I can only mention that I have had this particular solar panel up and running for 2 years and it still going strong. However you hook it up, please be sure that some type of charge control is used. The Yeti may have an internal one but I doubt it. That solar panel puts out about 1.9 amps of current in strong sunlight and without charge control could overcharge any battery pack hooked to it. Sorry I can't be of more... » Read More Robbin: Sorry may not be able to help you here.. I've looked at the pictures and information of the Yeti and cannot confirm what is needed to hook the solar panel to it. I can only mention that I have had this particular solar panel up and running for 2 years and it still going strong. However you hook it up, please be sure that some type of charge control is used. The Yeti may have an internal one but I doubt it. That solar panel puts out about 1.9 amps of current in strong sunlight and without charge control could overcharge any battery pack hooked to it. Sorry I can't be of more help....Phillip « Show Less
1859499
I have one installed in a metal box on the roof. It has already been down to -10 F and probably to 100 F. That said, you may want to look at a MPPT charger. It seems you never get enough power out of a solar panel and the MPPT charger can get up to 30% more power to the battery / load. Its because a solar panel is a constant current device. The current is a function of how much light is hitting the solar panel and with a PWM charger you are pulling the voltage down to the battery voltage instead of allowing it to work at about 19 volts, which is the maximum power point for most 12 volt panes. I have one installed in a metal box on the roof. It has already been down to -10 F and probably to 100 F. That said, you may want to look at a MPPT charger. It seems you never get enough power out of a solar panel and the MPPT charger can get up to 30% more power to the battery / load. Its because a solar panel is a constant current device. The current is a function of how much light is hitting the solar panel and with a PWM charger you are pulling the voltage down to the battery voltage instead of allowing it to work at about 19 volts, which is the maximum power point for most 12 volt panes.
1373853
I have not tried this and wonder why you want to unless you have too much power for one. They do make a controllers that works up to sixty amps. I don't know how you want to wire this. Using separate panels is the only thing I can guess. I use my meter every day to read the total amps going to my batteries and the voltage at any given time. The lights on the front of the controller tell you most things about the system but not the voltage or the current. The voltage tells you how close you are to a full charge. If you have two sets of panels you would need two controllers with two meters. Hope this helps. I have not tried this and wonder why you want to unless you have too much power for one. They do make a controllers that works up to sixty amps. I don't know how you want to wire this. Using separate panels is the only thing I can guess. I use my meter every day to read the total amps going to my batteries and the voltage at any given time. The lights on the front of the controller tell you most things about the system but not the voltage or the current. The voltage tells you how close you are to a full charge. If you have two sets of panels you would need two controllers with two meters.... » Read More I have not tried this and wonder why you want to unless you have too much power for one. They do make a controllers that works up to sixty amps. I don't know how you want to wire this. Using separate panels is the only thing I can guess. I use my meter every day to read the total amps going to my batteries and the voltage at any given time. The lights on the front of the controller tell you most things about the system but not the voltage or the current. The voltage tells you how close you are to a full charge. If you have two sets of panels you would need two controllers with two meters. Hope this helps. « Show Less
1140534
These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.)I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially adds another virtual panel due to it's improved efficiency. These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.)I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially... » Read More These connect to the supplied (or a replacement) charge controller which connects thru a fuse to your battery. If your generator also charges the battery then this charge controller simply will be over shadowed by the generators charger (as in at night). I have it connected this way and it works fine. (Both chargers in parallel with no issues.)I'm keeping this charge controller as a spare and have replaced it in my RV with http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_kid_frontBack.pdf. I ended up getting a total of 4 of these panels for a 400W system. The Kid essentially adds another virtual panel due to it's improved efficiency. « Show Less
2257380
Hi Getpreparedstuff,Are you able to share with me the model of the solar charge controller that you use? Thanks. -David