(1) I have already painted my basement walls &amp; floor ... Can I paint over using Hydro-Seal 75? (2) Where can I buy it with the anti-mold additive? Tx
1602526
We do not recommend painting over other coatings or paints with Hydro-seal 75. It will stick but will not stop the other coating from peeling due to moisture or seepage. Hydro-seal 75 is available with the anti mold additive on amazon in gray. Rick Bernard Northern Industries Inc. 800 346 5543 rick@northerncoatings.com
546082
Hello Mark. We ran out early also. We used clear transparent tape folded over itself. My kids suggested 2 sided tape but that would have taken the paint off the walls. Home Depot probably sells that same putty. Good luck.
1385209
Having purchased a home that had a what I considered a major leak in a basement beneath grade I found Hydro-Seal after lots of research. The product performs as advertised. It has stopped water since application. I did apply very think in a few porous areas and continued to the foundation with a 12 inch application on the floor. My home is DRY. Mix the can in thirds since it sets up quickly (35-45 min).
458654
Hi Nathan, I agree with MOzarkian regarding the spray. I'd make sure to cover the entire piece, front and back well. I live in Florida, and we too decorate outside walls......clear sealant is my best friend!!! You might have less issue with rust as where you are it is a much drier climate.
256928
I have not tried to paint over radon seal but the packaging says you can after about 10 days. My garage took longer to finish penetrating and impurities came up like a fine sand. I'm sure I could paint over it now.
432212
This seal dries clear. You can paint over it. I used it to seal out moisture in my basement.
219043
M/S paints are exceptionally good quality paints. Some of them are a bit thick, the high-gloss paints, more so than others. Paints also get thicker as they age. I don't know what the shelf life is on these paints, but I have found that they do tend to thicken to almost a "gel like" substance the older they get. Adding water is okay and does not effect the outcome of your project - as long as it's only a small amount of water. Too much water will make the paints lose some of the gloss effect and will not cover as thoroughly. If the paint is too gel like or too thick already, I would advise buying a new bottle (or set) to insure the best outcome for your project. The paint should Not be 'gel like' brand new. It should be thick but easily useable. A word of caution: Hobby and Craft stores, as well as Paint stores, often put their paints On Sale as they enter the end of their factory recommended shelf life. The paints are still good, but best used right away. Paints are also put On Sale as new colors hit the market and old ones fall out of favor, so not all paint 'on sale' has necessarily reached it 'sell by' date! I hope this info is helpful! C.Dinkins, Madison MS
973621
Matthew, just paint your cabinets. I wish I had. You may have to sand, or use a chemical stripper to prep the surface first; the kit comes with a chemical deglazer that you use first, but it was a pain. Beyond that I can't see any difference in what's in the kit and what you can buy on the shelf of a Home Depot, although it comes with a can of this stuff you use to pre-age them for a specific look. The final step is a glaze that is AWFUL and hard to work with, esp if you are painting your cabinets white. I wish I had just bought a hand sander and semi gloss paint -- which I ended up doing anyway, but I could have saved a lot of time and money. Matthew, just paint your cabinets. I wish I had. You may have to sand, or use a chemical stripper to prep the surface first; the kit comes with a chemical deglazer that you use first, but it was a pain. Beyond that I can't see any difference in what's in the kit and what you can buy on the shelf of a Home Depot, although it comes with a can of this stuff you use to pre-age them for a specific look. The final step is a glaze that is AWFUL and hard to work with, esp if you are painting your cabinets white. I wish I had just bought a hand sander and semi gloss paint -- which I ended up doing... » Read More Matthew, just paint your cabinets. I wish I had. You may have to sand, or use a chemical stripper to prep the surface first; the kit comes with a chemical deglazer that you use first, but it was a pain. Beyond that I can't see any difference in what's in the kit and what you can buy on the shelf of a Home Depot, although it comes with a can of this stuff you use to pre-age them for a specific look. The final step is a glaze that is AWFUL and hard to work with, esp if you are painting your cabinets white. I wish I had just bought a hand sander and semi gloss paint -- which I ended up doing anyway, but I could have saved a lot of time and money. « Show Less
1503134
If you are wanting to paint and use the shellac as a seal since paint really doesnt need anything over it....that would work....I use the shellac as a covering over areas that arent going to get much "traffic" Anything with a lot of wear/tear I would use a urethane....But a good paint, I have always thought of as a sealer and a protection not needing urethane or a lacquer/shellac, If you do put a coating over the paint. dont apply it for at least 10 days to make sure your paint is dry. Depending, of course, on the type of paint. Other wise the paint could remain uncured under the coating....I found that out the hard way. If you are wanting to paint and use the shellac as a seal since paint really doesnt need anything over it....that would work....I use the shellac as a covering over areas that arent going to get much "traffic" Anything with a lot of wear/tear I would use a urethane....But a good paint, I have always thought of as a sealer and a protection not needing urethane or a lacquer/shellac, If you do put a coating over the paint. dont apply it for at least 10 days to make sure your paint is dry. Depending, of course, on the type of paint. Other wise the paint could remain uncured under the... » Read More If you are wanting to paint and use the shellac as a seal since paint really doesnt need anything over it....that would work....I use the shellac as a covering over areas that arent going to get much "traffic" Anything with a lot of wear/tear I would use a urethane....But a good paint, I have always thought of as a sealer and a protection not needing urethane or a lacquer/shellac, If you do put a coating over the paint. dont apply it for at least 10 days to make sure your paint is dry. Depending, of course, on the type of paint. Other wise the paint could remain uncured under the coating....I found that out the hard way. « Show Less
1830820
I used Black China bristle, the product is like an oil based paint, a small foam roller would be better because you won't get brush strokes. The epoxy product is harder to work with, don't over brush if you do it with a brush. And reverse your stoke on the second application. Good luck, ventilate the room really well and wear a mask even though the directions don't require it.
1660519
The acid etch solution is in the epoxy kit, unless you just want a shiny floor i would recommend Epoxy. you can color it to your preference and also get flakes if you like that (i didn't at first want it but turned out really good). Also if you are in California like i am - this is no longer allowed all local places pulled it from shelves and i luckily found online before they stopped shipping to california as well. Good luck!
1660518
I was using this in my basement, I did two coats of the basement epoxy in grey with the flakes, then put a coat of clear down, then topped with a sanded coat of the clear. From what it says you can use it as a top coat or a sanded coat. It does not come with the acid etch solution. I did not etch the basement, just made sure there was no sealer on the cement.
251439
I did just that this weekend. I put two thick coats of HNR then used dynamat extreme and it stuck very well. The only advice I could give is... make sure the surface is painted before applying HNR. You will see rust bleed through the next day if you don't. Happy sound deadening!
1669966
Use a gloss black primer, and then paint *extremely* light coats of chrome, building it up slowly. I find that 2-3 coats works best, and it dries very quickly in between coats. I have looked everywhere for a "manual" or directions, but have not found one, so the info I am giving you is based on my own tests. I tried it many different ways, and only gloss black with light chrome coats gave me the high polish results I was looking for. It should also be sealed if it's going to be even lightly handled, and again the sealing should be done with a very light hand. I would recommend testing on plastic spoons to make sure you have things right before you go to model, as stripping this stuff is a real PITA. Happy Painting!
646414
Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a little anyway. Thanks. Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a... » Read More Hi. I have been working with paints all my life. Working forDuPont and Val-Spar. I have used vinyl finishes a few time on my own stuff and works well. I have had no problems with cracks or peeling (due to a flex additive) but for everyday use I feel it will wear through after everyday sliding back and forth as this is a thin material being sprayed and will take a few coats for decent coverage. The articles Ive sprayed in the past were chairs that did not get much use but looks good.But for the price it can't hurt to try. At worst just touch it up from time to time. Hope this helps a little anyway. Thanks. « Show Less
2191683
I don't like the application of Hydro-Seal 75 as a waterproof base before tiling over Drywall. This is not a tried and true application of Hydro-Seal 75 so we do not have a record of successful applications for this application. Hydro-Seal 75 is a very unique material and is used to seal plywood and particle board subfloors to make them seamless. By mixing Hydro-Seal 75 with Portland Cement(50-50 ratio) a waterproof skim coat is created to be used on all the seams and a fiberglass tape is laid into the skim coat and then skimmed again to a smooth finish. Then two coats of Hydro-Seal 75 would give you a waterproof base to apply tile. For a bathroom I would prefer cement board designed for wet areas certainly not particle board, but no experience applying over Drywall. Rick Bernard Northern Industries Inc.
841586
Christine,Yes..First, you can go to Home depot and get some 1 inch rigid insulation. Fabricate a box to cover the light housing. Then set it over the light can & apply a thin bead of yhis foam around the edges. Remember, interior walls where electrical and plumbing penetrations are at the top of the wall plate as well.Insulating without "air-sealing" is a waste of your money. This product works very well. Amazon also has the tool yoy need to use with this insulation foam. And remember, if the material in the tip becomes hard, just spray some WD-40 in it and it will be good to go.~Kevin Christine,Yes..First, you can go to Home depot and get some 1 inch rigid insulation. Fabricate a box to cover the light housing. Then set it over the light can & apply a thin bead of yhis foam around the edges. Remember, interior walls where electrical and plumbing penetrations are at the top of the wall plate as well.Insulating without "air-sealing" is a waste of your money. This product works very well. Amazon also has the tool yoy need to use with this insulation foam. And remember, if the material in the tip becomes hard, just spray some WD-40 in it and it will be... » Read More Christine,Yes..First, you can go to Home depot and get some 1 inch rigid insulation. Fabricate a box to cover the light housing. Then set it over the light can & apply a thin bead of yhis foam around the edges. Remember, interior walls where electrical and plumbing penetrations are at the top of the wall plate as well.Insulating without "air-sealing" is a waste of your money. This product works very well. Amazon also has the tool yoy need to use with this insulation foam. And remember, if the material in the tip becomes hard, just spray some WD-40 in it and it will be good to go.~Kevin « Show Less