Did you find it hard to sand/shape? I'll be filling cracks and holes in deck wood, and want to "feather" it in flush w/wood.
1594020
I get it close to what I want then use sander to make it flush ... I patched the top of a vintage table where the veneer was coming off, then chalk painted, looks amazing
1594021
I used a DeWalt electric sander, so making it flat went very easy. This stuff dries VERY quickly once mixed with the solution, so there is very little time get creative with it.
1594022
My experience with the Bondo wood filler has been 100% positive. I have bought 3 cans of it now, and sanded it down many times with my reclamation project. It basically dries to be just as hard as wood. Totally recommend. You gotta be quick with it and use small doses to make sure you get it all in before it starts to harden when you mix in the activator stuff, but this stuff is tough as nails.
1594023
I think it did the trick. I'd give it a good review. It was moldable and so far seems to hold the paint
1594024
No, I did not find it difficult to shape and sand. The material hardens reasonably quickly (over night is best) and you should have little problems with using it
459226
I tried sanding it an it was extremely hard to do. I had to stop using it because it was burning up all of my sandpaper
1547063
If the wood is not smooth or if it has any peeling or splinters it would be best to sand it down to where it was smooth. Otherwise the new stuff would just peel, too.
1673153
The wood I got was dense enough to sink. I had no problems, bit it did turn my water a little brownish after a few weeks because I didn't clean it properly.
599289
It would probably be tough to get into the corners and whatnot, and the disk is also pretty rough, so you'll definitely need to sand quite a bit afterwards. That being said, it really didn't tear up the wood on my house when I used it. I was taking paint off cedar, which is quite soft. Hope that helps!
287110
It will depend on the dimensions of the piece, the smaller the end the harder to sand but the larger the easier. But the adjustable speed will help in this a lot. Hardwood or softwood won't matter
762745
Appreciate an answer but....The question is and was, "Does the blade scallop the wood at entry?" Apparently the narrower "kerf" blades have a propensity for this problem. Especially if they are not metal.
1751727
The ends where it is rolled was difficult to get it to lay flat and I cut off about a foot. I laid out the wiremold in the sun for a few days and it now lays flat.
123586
As I recall, it was tricky at first, and I could not install the full lattice at one time. I had to remove some of the horizontal slats (the shorter ones), fit the rest in diagonally, and then fillin the rest. It took a lot of trial and error, but it eventually went together perfectly.
704681
I'm sad to say that I do have a problem with roughness. Before AND after I treated it with oil, there are tiny shards of wood splintering out of the board. I can't get this problem to stop. I intended to use this as a cheese board, but unfortunatly I cannot risk having tiny pieces of wood getting into my guests' food. I'll be looking for a return.
876997
Very hard to use on the side. I tried it on the sides of my hot tub and it left it uneven in color. Did a great job on my wooden deck.
175217
You'd have to sand it first, as there is a slick finish to it. I think it would be too much trouble.
767960
It would probably take you a while depending on the size of the deck. I'd consider a belt sander for the surface, although this would be good for rails.
283712
You should probably sand. Take the extra time to get a result worth having.
1636784
Wood is too sensitive. It would crack for sure. Don't try drilling any additional holes in it.
246961
I understand that there is a way to "mill" or mill by sanding. I have not tried it but I believe it will work. You would actually be sanding rather than milling. Julio
1851660
Works for me. I cut with a credit card on the surface and then sand from there.