What electric tankless water heater do you recommend to handle a home shower? From the questions I see here, the answers are mixed about whether it will handle an average shower or not. I'm trying to go green, and I only need hot water for two basic...
316417
you wont get hot water at full pressure with this unit, a shower I would not recommend, works fine in my out-shed where the tap water in winter is bitterly cold, this takes the bite out of the cold water, at half pressure you can get fairly warm water.
2184362
Just run the facet to bring the water to the bathroom. That is what we do. I am a female and love the warm water feature. I put the first one (cold water because the other was higher, wish I went ahead and bought it anyway) in by myself, but needed help with the warm water one because we ended up replacing the lines under the sink that had rotted and we didn't know it until we started to connect the hot water line under the sink. DJ
1021075
I've had the same basic question for some time now. It's surprisingly hard to find out how much water a specific machine uses, but you could try researching that first. (Personally I had no luck.) One estimate that's out there is that a typical front loader uses 15 gallons of water. I figure slightly more than half of that is for the (cold) rinse, meaning in a worst case scenario (cotton whites) you would need about 7 gallons of hot water. That said, most water heaters start delivering cooler (i.e., warm) water as they approach their capacity. In other words if you have a 10 gallon tank the temperature might start dropping off significantly after using only 8 or 9 gallons of water. So you (I) might be better off with 10 or even a 20 gallon tank. My problem with all these small "point of use" tank type heaters is that they are low power, which means easy electric hookup but really long recovery times in terms of gallons per hour. My advice for someone building from scratch and wanting point of use for a laundry room, even with a slop sink, would be a small tank-less heater. You could use a 30 amp unit like the Bosch AE7.2, have limitless hot water with zero recovery time and about the same up front cost, though you would have to run however many feet 10/2 wire (relatively cheap) and add a 30 amp 2-pole breaker, also cheap if you have the room in your electrical panel. I wish someone made a high-power (30 AMP 220V) small-tank (10-gal or less) heater, but so far I haven't been able to find anything like that. That would be the best of both worlds, since experience has shown that small tankless heaters can be finicky, delivering bursts of cold water, needing to be reset occasionally, and are extremely sensitive to changes in water pressure, which is a big factor if you live in certain areas or are on a well like me.
1117472
Tankless water heaters will handle almost anything, but the trick is sequencing / timing. If all three teenagers are going to take baths or showers at one time, it may not provide enough hot water. To some extent this will depend on the size and length of your water lines. I bought one of the to heat my hot tub and two larger, 9.5 gpm units; one for domestic hot water and the other for radiant floor heat. They all work great. The price does seem to vary so keep an eye on the prices over time. The PVC vent system is much better and extremely lower in cost than those tankless water heaters that require stainless steel vent pipes. Good luck. Tankless water heaters will handle almost anything, but the trick is sequencing / timing. If all three teenagers are going to take baths or showers at one time, it may not provide enough hot water. To some extent this will depend on the size and length of your water lines. I bought one of the to heat my hot tub and two larger, 9.5 gpm units; one for domestic hot water and the other for radiant floor heat. They all work great. The price does seem to vary so keep an eye on the prices over time. The PVC vent system is much better and extremely lower in cost than those tankless water heaters... » Read More Tankless water heaters will handle almost anything, but the trick is sequencing / timing. If all three teenagers are going to take baths or showers at one time, it may not provide enough hot water. To some extent this will depend on the size and length of your water lines. I bought one of the to heat my hot tub and two larger, 9.5 gpm units; one for domestic hot water and the other for radiant floor heat. They all work great. The price does seem to vary so keep an eye on the prices over time. The PVC vent system is much better and extremely lower in cost than those tankless water heaters that require stainless steel vent pipes. Good luck. « Show Less
1012970
If you leave the light on then the power is going thru the unit and the heater coils will heat the water up to temp in say 10 mins or so and you could then "take your shower" ........................... if you forget to go shut it off it will continue to keep the water at the set temp and cost a lot to maintain that temp.Really if you take a shower everday at say 6am then just put the timers on to have the heater come on for 30 mins starting at 5:30am and when you hop in it will be all hot for you and you don't have to mess with it again, it will shut off at 6am and you will have hot water most of the day ...................... the main reason for buying one of these is so you don't have to mess with it??? If you leave the light on then the power is going thru the unit and the heater coils will heat the water up to temp in say 10 mins or so and you could then "take your shower" ........................... if you forget to go shut it off it will continue to keep the water at the set temp and cost a lot to maintain that temp.Really if you take a shower everday at say 6am then just put the timers on to have the heater come on for 30 mins starting at 5:30am and when you hop in it will be all hot for you and you don't have to mess with it again, it will shut off at 6am and you will... » Read More If you leave the light on then the power is going thru the unit and the heater coils will heat the water up to temp in say 10 mins or so and you could then "take your shower" ........................... if you forget to go shut it off it will continue to keep the water at the set temp and cost a lot to maintain that temp.Really if you take a shower everday at say 6am then just put the timers on to have the heater come on for 30 mins starting at 5:30am and when you hop in it will be all hot for you and you don't have to mess with it again, it will shut off at 6am and you will have hot water most of the day ...................... the main reason for buying one of these is so you don't have to mess with it??? « Show Less
2202831
no, you would want to go with a bigger one, we use this one just for doing dishes. we have normal water heater for showers and stuff. comes just with heater and the chimney adapters.
1827127
This particular model may be too small. The manufacturer's website has a sizing chart that will tell you which model you will need to produce the amount of hot water your number of fixtures will require. I would check with local officials to see if it meets temperature, sanitary and other specific requirements for restaurant use. The cost savings we have achieved are because of occasional use. If hot water is used constantly, it might use more electric than a conventional water tank electric or gas water heater. This unit draws a lot of current when actually in use. The temperature control is excellent and the unit produces really hot water, very quickly. This particular model may be too small. The manufacturer's website has a sizing chart that will tell you which model you will need to produce the amount of hot water your number of fixtures will require. I would check with local officials to see if it meets temperature, sanitary and other specific requirements for restaurant use. The cost savings we have achieved are because of occasional use. If hot water is used constantly, it might use more electric than a conventional water tank electric or gas water heater. This unit draws a lot of current when actually in use. The temperature control... » Read More This particular model may be too small. The manufacturer's website has a sizing chart that will tell you which model you will need to produce the amount of hot water your number of fixtures will require. I would check with local officials to see if it meets temperature, sanitary and other specific requirements for restaurant use. The cost savings we have achieved are because of occasional use. If hot water is used constantly, it might use more electric than a conventional water tank electric or gas water heater. This unit draws a lot of current when actually in use. The temperature control is excellent and the unit produces really hot water, very quickly. « Show Less
1963156
I use a Tempra Plus unit for my house. It works perfectly for 2 bathrooms. It is listed as a whole house unit. My 6-2 I use for my barn. It is capable of giving me enoughwater for a single use
1963155
need more information, Are you wanting to supply two sinks and two showers?These type of water heaters require the use of low flow aerators for the faucet and shower heads or the water will not get very warm. The water heater should also be installed a close to sink or shower (point of use) to get hot water quicker. If you are wanting to service two showers then I would say that this unit is not large enough.
1594502
Hello Kim, Thank you for your question. You've provided one key piece of information we need to answer the question, the incoming water temp. But we also need to know which hot water points of use that you might use at the same time, and the flow rates of each. Let's assume they are one shower at 1.5 GPM and one sink at 1 GPM. That's a total flow rate of 2.5 GPM. This heater provides a temp increase of 40F at 2.5 GPM. 45F + 40F = 85F. Therefore, the 10L is way too "small" of a tankless heater. We recommend the 16L which gives a 57F temp increase at 2.5 GPM. 45F + 57F = 102F which is slightly hot water for most people. Kind Regards, Ross GadgetsGo
652467
It all depends on how far it has to travel to the shower. It takes a minute to get to my kitchen sink, because the heater is in my back room. For me, it takes no longer than the old propane tank I had before I got the tankless one.
841137
I've had one for about 10 years in a studio apartment with low flow shower. A person can take an 8-10 shower before the water starts to go cold but the setting on the tank was set at maximum ie. around 140 degrees which is very hot and if one is not careful can scald. So upping the temperature is a way to get the most out of a small heater. I only have 120v so I am limited by that. I would prefer a tankless but don't have the 240v that is really required.
2084107
I am no pro but I am a "handy" female and I installed one this weekend. Mounting was so easy it should not be a worry and The outside Tankless heater does not need venting so that was a big plus for me. There are Three things you must check you have before you start: #1 Must have 3/4 inch gas line (check for your model) for this model. I upgraded mine by replacing the T at the main pipe (Tankless needs the capacity so no cheating by using a reducer to size up from smaller capacity). #2 Must Get the Tankless Water Heater Service Valve Kit or you will not be able to service/clean it and save yourself heartache (it will break easier than standard HW heaters if not serviced regularly) I got mine at HD. #3 Needs 110 v electricity (I put in a light switch outside and put outside cover over it so we could turn it on/off as needed). One thing everyone should be aware of that can be a gotcha: There is a sensor which will not allow the unit start until all gas/water/electricity are hooked up and if you do try to start it before then (such as when trying to test the electricity to the thermostat like me), their is a sensor that will not allow it to start until everything is hooked up. The thermostat may not come on after doing this. It needed to be reset by turning the electricity to it on and off; I just used the GFI on the outlet on this electrical run to turn the electricity off and then back on to do a easy disconnection/reconnection of the electricity to thermostat which did the trick. The thermostat came back to life and it worked. Now my tenant is enjoying hot water. This guys installation videos were excellent and where I learned about the valves! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKhXoaRg6k4 Hope this helps. I will be getting mine inspected by the city as part of an existing permit for a remodel. Let you know if anything comes up after that, but it should not.
1650032
When I first built my home i was a bachelor and used this as my only water heater. I kept it on the highest setting. I could shave, shutting off the water after each rinse and then take a very quick shower 3-4 min with the water flow on low (low flow shower head also) without running out of hot water. I've owned three of these for different purposes through the years. All performed flawlessly. Two still in use. One i sold because I thought i had no use for it but found one within a couple years.
1791064
The installation instructions require a 60 amp circuit beaker. I had mine connected to a 60 then I moved and now have it hooked up to a 50 amp. I had my brother test the amp usage of my unit and it uses between 42 - 44 amps at full draw. It has two heating elements and uses only one at 21 -22 amp draw unless you use enough water to kick in the second unit. Then it draws the full 42 - 44 amps. The heater only uses one heating element for a shower, but if you run the showing and a sink, then it uses both heating elements to meet the demand. They require 60, but mine runs on 50 just fine. I hope that helps with your decision. The installation instructions require a 60 amp circuit beaker. I had mine connected to a 60 then I moved and now have it hooked up to a 50 amp. I had my brother test the amp usage of my unit and it uses between 42 - 44 amps at full draw. It has two heating elements and uses only one at 21 -22 amp draw unless you use enough water to kick in the second unit. Then it draws the full 42 - 44 amps. The heater only uses one heating element for a shower, but if you run the showing and a sink, then it uses both heating elements to meet the demand. They require 60, but mine runs on 50 just fine. I... » Read More The installation instructions require a 60 amp circuit beaker. I had mine connected to a 60 then I moved and now have it hooked up to a 50 amp. I had my brother test the amp usage of my unit and it uses between 42 - 44 amps at full draw. It has two heating elements and uses only one at 21 -22 amp draw unless you use enough water to kick in the second unit. Then it draws the full 42 - 44 amps. The heater only uses one heating element for a shower, but if you run the showing and a sink, then it uses both heating elements to meet the demand. They require 60, but mine runs on 50 just fine. I hope that helps with your decision. « Show Less
2165102
Not sure but should handle two. If you don't have the water on full blast it should be fine, you can also turn the temp up if required. Need to conserve water here so I take army style shower, get wet soap up rinse off even better with a friend. Good for the planet.
1542432
No. My electrician wired this thing in for me and we used the 3 40 amp breakers and #8 wire per the instructions. Here's something we noticed when first testing out the unit with water flowing through to our kitchen sink. With this small demand for hot water, only 2 of the 40 amp circuits were in use. One measured 32 amps, the second measured 27 amps, and the third measured 0. My electrician and I assume the unit holds the third circuit in reserve for situations where more hot water is required. Why heat up two circuits when only 2 are necessary, right? I'm assuming this is the case although I have not read this anywhere. You may want to call the company to be sure. We've been using the water heater for close to a month and it does a good job of delivering a steady stream of hot water for the shower. We're very pleased but there is a little longer delay waiting for the hot water to get to where we need it. If you live in an area where water prices are extremely high this would be a consideration. I have not gotten the first electric bill but I feel certain we will see a savings. Please let me know if anyone tells you different information. Thanks!