I bought this set up and it's great, but I need 2" more drop to be level. Any recommendations for a brand and size of wd drop down shank? I don't see anything by Pro Series and I want to make sure that the holes line up. Thanks, Mike
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Hello Mike. Keyword in part number "54998". Bert Camp Rigid Hitch Amazon Sales
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You would need a longer shank. We carry them in various sizes, depending on the size you need. We have sizes: 7 hole 9", 7 hole 12", 9 hole 9", 9 hole 12", 11 hole 9" and 2 hole 9". The prices range from $126 - $180. Please feel free to call me if you would like to narrow it down and order one.. Hilltop RV Superstore Internet, 1-800-676-7848. Thanks, Angie
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I'd like to add a little additional information to the excellent explanation from Jaygyver. I have both drives, an older WD1002FAEX and a newer WD1003FZEX. When I purchased the WD1002 model it was priced about the same as the newer model is today. I believe the current price disparity is due to two factors: the differences in suppliers as described by Jaygver, and also a design change. I noticed that my WD1002 was slightly heavier than the WD1003, and after some research discovered that was due to the WD1002 having two magnetic platters while the WD1003 was a newer single platter design. Evidently the WD engineers were able to simplify and hopefully improve the design. For me, both drives perform excellently and I'm equally pleased with both. However, I have seen discussions on certain tech forums in which intense gaming purists believe the older two platter design is better, and that WD changed the design simply to cut manufacturing costs. Thus the high prices for the WD1002 is due to it's scarcity (since it's now discontinued) and their belief that it's slightly better in both performance and ruggedness. As I said above, however, both perform equally well for me, and they're both Western Digital Black Series with 5 year warranties, so it's a no brainer to go with the best deal price wise.
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SDS and SDS plus are different from each other but all SDS bits have the same shank diameter as far as I know and all SDS plus bits have the same shank diameter. If it doesn't fit, it's probably because you are trying to use an SDS bit in an SDS plus chuck or vice versa. One other thing. The bits fit in the chuck in 2 positions 180 degrees out from each other but they don't fit in between those 2 points.
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The riser on this model is 1" I typically use a .8 or .75. This is set for what is called a 1/3 co-witness. If you could use a lazer chamber bore sight. it may help. What I am saying is the mount is a bit tall. This might be the issue. I will say that I have mounted probably 30 of these units and I have never had a bad unit, I have had bad mounts.
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The Rotary Proxon I have is Proxon D-54343 IBS/E .The largest bit for the shank is 1/16 of an inch and smaller. Maybe there might be some attachment to change the size....I have no idea yet I just bougth it.Thanks.
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I am currently running this setup:RaceFace NW 32t up front.Deore 8 sp drSLX 11-34t CassetteShimano 8sp chain.Not a single dropped chain since I put the NW on.
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I would use nothing BUT these drives in anything I built or upgraded. They're a bit pricier, and no one ever thinks about it, but the warranty on THESE hard drives, the WD Black series, is a full 5Y. VERY few other mfrs even offer a 5y warranty. And WD drives earn that warranty reputation, I haven't had a WD drive fail, EVER. In each case -- over a dozen -- they've become useless through increasing capacity, never mechanical/electronic failure. That is, I probably have an 80gig WD drive that's still functioning. It's just not worth plugging in and taking up a SATA channel when I can get that capacity on a freaking flash drive nowadays... Yes, they're that good. You can "save money" by buying something cheaper. But you'll pay in the long run with headaches from lost data, or time spent rebuilding your windows/software/os and tweaking it back to the way you had it. The HD is the soul of your machine. Everything else fails, you can practically swap a part back in and you're up and running. But the HD fails and you've got a multiday to longer term headache to get things back to "normal". And, for general purposes, they're among the best drives in performance terms, too. Tom's Hardware may rate something else marginally faster, but not by much. And not by enough to drag you away from WD Black. As the old saw goes, once you go Black, you'll never go back. :-D
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Wouldn't you know it...as soon as I said I hadn't seen one, the first recommendation on my Amazon account is what I think you are looking for: PSI Woodworking Products LTCA18 Live Tailstock Chuck Adapter 1-Inch by 8TPI Male Thread Mounting to a 2 MTUnfortunately it is out of stock for now.
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I got a 1" transfer case drop kit, but haven't gotten extended sway bar links. One thing you will also need is adjustable track bars as well, otherwise the front axle will pull to the driver's side and the rear will pull to the passenger side. If you want a budget boost, I wouldn't go over 2". Anything more and just buy a full kit with everything.
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I used a set of 4! I had the 1 3/4" in front and the 3/4" in the rear. This made it level. Now what i found out was that if you are using a stock suspension and this set up...and you weigh down your Jeep with gear....your back is gonna ride really low!!! So i would go with the 1 3/4" spacers all the way around and keep the rear a bit higher. This will compensate for your gear and stuff. Hope this helps!
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I actually have two of these. The first I have put in a Kreg PRS 1040 table with a Woodpecker fence. The table is pretty solid and the fence is super adjustable. That works well for everyday stuff. The second lift will go in the side extension of my table saw. This will help with longer stock. I've not tried it in any other tables.
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I could only find squarehead and drywall screws locally at HD and could only buy the special long bits from the local makita service center, (30mins away) they have an extra long peice on the hex end past the ball indent ,so standard bits dont fit in the gun. I ended up returning mine as it just wasnt well enough supported locally to make all the hassles worth it.
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Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
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I agree with Gordon...the saw I purchased went together perfect and the performance was as well. Only thing I can think of is that it was damaged at manufacture or while being shipped. What size tile are you working with and how far out is the cut?. You might call Bosch and see what info they have for you. I am very pleased with the saw, it is built very well..only thing I thought was unnecessary is the plastic splatter guards, useless and only get in the way. Also....for those of you who don't like the available stands for this saw I have an option. I also purchased the Bosch Easy Up and with some inistrute, metric bolts made one killer saw/ stand combo.
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I have to agree with the other replies you recieved. If you have the "hog ring" style (round C shaped spring around the square shank) it's going to be tough. Not Dewalt's fault. I have had air tools for years with the same setup. You want the socket to hold. So yes, place the socket on the floor, line up the square and press down hard. Getting it back off is going to take some wiggling for sure too.
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Afternoon Peggy, the kit comes with two drive adapters: an SDS/SDS+ and a hex shaft that is just shy of 11mm across flats. You MUST make sure you use the bits in drill mode only, i.e. turn off hammer mode. Otherwise you risk cracking the bits. You will also find a long 1/4" carbide bit useful so you can bore thick walls from both sides by drilling a 1/4 hole completely through the wall, then core drilling from both ends.Please wear good dust protection. Take care, Mike