I am not getting any AC power from either the heating or cooling relay side of this controller. I first thought this to be defective but upon receiving the replacement unit I am having the same problem. I have tried both polarity possibilities on the AC input side to no avail. I have been able to set the temperature, temp difference, and have knocked the compressor delay down to one minute. When warming or cooling the sensor I do get the alarm and can hear the relays switch but still no AC power. I suspect that this is end user error as getting two defective units isn't highly likely. If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much! I am not getting any AC power from either the heating or cooling relay side of this controller. I first thought this to be defective but upon receiving the replacement unit I am having the same... » Read More I am not getting any AC power from either the heating or cooling relay side of this controller. I first thought this to be defective but upon receiving the replacement unit I am having the same problem. I have tried both polarity possibilities on the AC input side to no avail. I have been able to set the temperature, temp difference, and have knocked the compressor delay down to one minute. When warming or cooling the sensor I do get the alarm and can hear the relays switch but still no AC power. I suspect that this is end user error as getting two defective units isn't highly likely. If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much! « Show Less
1600307
The relay contacts do not supply power. You use them as a switch for the power you wish routed through them.If you are that unfamiliar with power control devices, then you may consider not working with high voltage circuits.This is pretty basic stuff... the relay closures are not a switched AC outlet.
1600308
Watch this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I-iwFLykxsRead these discussion threads - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-fish-tank-controller-build-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/ and http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/Hope this helps.
1600309
The only thing I can think of is incorrect wiring or you have it hooked up to something that is trying to draw more amperage than the unit can handle and it's tripping rather than switching anything on. Perhaps it's a protection circuit? Have you tried hooking it up to something that draws lower power? I had mine wired to a heating pad as a warming pad for a while to start seedlings. Then I wired it into a home made aquarium type heater. I don't get any 'alarms', my unit works perfectly every time. I'd have to see how you wired it and what it's wire to in order to help. Sorry.
1600310
"The relay contacts do not supply power. You use them as a switch for the power you wish routed through them" Same answer, no attitude. Cheers!
1600311
Probably don't have it wired correctly. I used the instructions found here http://nordeastbrewersalliance.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/dual_stage_temp_controller_creation_instructions.pdf and have been using mine for over a year with not problems.
1633577
if no electric output, check the zero ground fault protection, i have another genny that will not generate until 1) speed is up and 2) zgfp is working. Turns out I need a new zpfg for that one.
2263700
yea. it's probably defective. it works good on my end. no issues, no freezing. The connection might have a failure or switch the power cord. That might have the failure. Test it out.
794692
Dont have an answer. I double checked my connections multiple times, same with making sure had proper wiring. nothing happened. removed controller and went with another option. money down the drain!
1391249
I had the same problem (question). The label on the hour meter says that the connections are polarity sensitive but when using to monitor AC usage, there is no polarity. I communicated with the vendors customer rep., and was told that they had engineered the counter to be able to be used in a AC or DC application, but to save money with parts that had already been labeled, they continued to ship the new design with the old labels. They told me to use the meter (counter) without regard to the plus and minus lables. I tried it and it works.
2261737
I'd like to help... But I only use mine for heat. Ive neither AC, nor fan to control, but the terminals are on the device. Sorry.
409909
I run 2 Servers in my home office (I am an IT Consultant), plus the rest of my home on this unit. About 5 months ago we lost power for 48 hours and we ran the generator using Natural Gas. I had a couple of hiccups with some of my UPS's due to voltage fluctuation. I think it has to do with the sensitivity of the units. My older UPS units did not have an issue. I have found out from others in my field that this is common with newer units. I have APC older units and they did beep every once in awhile, but the equipment stayed on all 48 hours. The newer units did not and once the battery was used up, the equipment turned off. I don't want to give out model #'s because just because mine worked, I can't guarantee it will work for you. Once it gets warmer around here I am going to try and put surge suppressors in front of the newer units to see if that helps. If not I would try to put cheap UPS's in front of the High Capacity units. Hope that helps. BTW, I have my generator connected using a manual transfer switch and when I lost power, I was able to be on generator power in under 3 minutes.... Power went out... I went outside, removed the cover, turned on the Natural Gas, turned the key... That was it. I use a battery tender always connected to the unit so the battery is always fully charged. Total install including the generator was under $2600.
1343122
Mine burnt up or froze on the first test when used with an ac induction motor on a dust collector. The collector required a dedicated 15 A breaker. I thought the Additional 25 A rating would be plenty. I had to buy a crydom brand to get it to work. You are either looking for a relay that will handle a resistive load like a heater or an inductive load like a ac motor. This is not the relay for a motor.
1941186
Sounds like you have a bad control board. The temp can be set on both the front face of the unit and with the remote control. Take it back and get a new one!!
25472
I have the same issue. It just stopped working. I had an electronic tech looked at it and he think it's something on the circuit board. We didn't see any burnt marks. This device runs hot constantly.Now, I bought a zojirushi as a replacement unit. It might cost more but it runs cool.
2112389
Humm.. that is weird. My unit included a full instructions manual. Contact the seller. They will ask you if your unit is doble or single a/c system. That may make the difference.
1728018
I have a couple of questions. First - have you talked with your electrician about this? Next, I don't understand your description of the problem. If the breaker trips when the thermostat kicks on, how does it get power to go up to 76? One issue with these thermostats is that they are designed to work on electric baseboard heat (resistive load). If the load is inductive (say a heater with a blower motor) they don't work. Finally, you may simply have a defective unit. Do the other 4 work properly?
1132674
There are two other things to check...first is the timer control assy. If this fails to work you will get no heating. And the next and last would be the heating element. Do you use this alot? How old is your unit? Feel free to send me more questions if you need further help as I'm an power plant engineer by trade.
627330
i wish i could help...my unit stopped working 3 weeks after purchase and has not worked for the past ~month. i will most likely throw it in the trash can. the manufacturer said they would send me a power adapter. i never recieved it. i am thinking twice about ordering anything from amazon as they appear to not care at all for their customers. it maybe time to revisit the brick and mortor stores. sorry for the venting. i wish could have helped
1855551
It sounds like you have the wrong wire contacted to the power source. One wire goes the a permanent power soure and the other goes to the ingnition switch. Couldn't tell you which color goes where because I returned my unit because it froze on me and stopped working.
425395
Mine unit is not hot. I'm pulling twice as many watts (~235W). I run for 5 hours. Its sounds like you have a problem, maybe a fire hazard. I'm not sure of the electrical specs, if you have a voltmeter you might try measuring the voltage or amps.
277570
I had that problem with the first unit I received. It may just need a little more time to get to the set temperature and then stop blinking, But, if it doesn't work correctly after several hours of running, there is a problem with the compressor (possibly damaged in shipping). Call Amazon, they will ship a new one to you for free (as long as you send the damaged one back). Save the packaging materials from the second unit (if you threw away the packing materials from the first one) so you can send back the first unit. Shipping is free, you just have to lug an 80 pound package to the UPS place. Be sure and get a receipt with a tracking number so that you can track the return shipping and see when it arrived back at Amazon. Hope this helps.