What type of fuse do you recommend to put on the positive battery terminal. Book recommends a dc- rated fuse. Says death can occur if you do not use
1598064
Personally, I would go lower but not higher. the purpose of the fuse is to protect the Inverter. Mine specified 80Amps, so I would not have gone higher than that (warranty), but you could go lower, say 60Amp. The unit I bought came with an 80Amp and a 60Amp fuse. I used the 80Amp and saved the 60Amp as a spare.
1598065
I used an 80amp blade fuse and holder sold for an automotive audio amplifier. I bought mine at Wal-Mart (It was under $20) as I needed it right away, but Amazon probably has it too. I cut the positive battery cable (with a hacksaw) and the fuse holder was installed in-line.
1598066
I had it installed by professionals so im not really sure. But id say if the book recommend use it you probably should.
876569
We recommend using a 45-50 A fuse with this particular kit since the charge controller is rated at 40 A. This size fuse will ensure fuses won't be blowing all the time if your system is approaching the fuse current quite often and it will also protect the charge controller by keeping it from operating out of the 40 A range by too much. Typically our customers do not use fuses because it is quite rare that the current ratings will be exceeded. However if you do wish to use them, the most important location is going to be between the charge controller and the battery. If over current does occur it will most likely never be on the solar panel side. For maximum protection you can place one on both sides of the controller.
1661179
Sir, if you haven't, I would suggest that you go to this url: http://www.scosche.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ebt+battery+terminal&ok;=
2283538
Mine has three terminals, + - L. "+" is the positive source to the battery. "-" is the negative to the battery and negative to the load. "L" is the positive to the load. If yours is different, good luck.
2177923
Are you blowing the fuse when its going dark? If you are you should hard wire a 18gauge or to be safe 16gauge wire with a 15 amp in line fuse directly to the stereos/amps power wire. Make sure that fuse is as close to the battery as you can get it to avoid any shorting along the lines of that hard wire.
1719678
I installed this in a boat but still had the same problem with the cable length. I replaced the supplied cable with a different cable and terminated the new cable to the boat battery. The boat battery has screw terminals so it made connection easy. However I just did almost the same thing in my old truck hooking up an amplifier that took #4 awg cable. I purchased a large fuse holder at Radio Shack (cost $13.99) and purchased some 40 Amp round AGC fuses at Auto Zone, and I purchased a battery connection tap (I have a side mount battery but they also make some for conventional batteries) at Auto Zone. For cable I just purchased a cheap #14 awg extension cord at Wal-mart (orange jacket with three #14 awg conductors inside). I connected all 3 conductors together to use as one positive cable and I connected all 3 conductors together to use as one negative cable. The combined ampacity of all 3 conductors tied together was more than the amp or an inverter would require.
195970
Adding a power switch would be a good thing to do. I would just wire it threw a push button or toggle switch on the positive power line. Just make sure you also put an in line fuse on the power line nearest to the battery as possible.
621298
Hello A. MacGregor I always use batterys and have never used DC power. I do not see any switch. I guess the best way to find out is to try it. I wish I could be more helpful. Clarence Munsey
839065
Can you explain your situation. Device can find shorted wire anywhere, what about 87terminal?! 87 terminal is power source terminal of relay for some device in circuit, you got blown fuse when relay is engaged? any way GTC can help you
36058
You can never go wrong adding an in-line fuse right of the battery connection. Most professional installs will place a fuse in the first 6-12 inches of wire/cable. The distance of the cable and constant watt draw does matter on the size of wire used. I will be using 4 AWG since I will be running it over 15 feet or so for a permanant mount in my truck. If they are recommending running 8 AWG wiring, it would be a 100 amp fuse by US standards for 12v applications. This would be at a full load.
1178564
This is a distribution block only for positive, it does not have a ground bus to hook the negative wires to. Hook the positive feed from the battery to the screw. Then hook the individual circuits to the spade connectors and plug in the appropriate fuse. If you are using this in an automobile, the negative can be hooked to any bare metal from the frame. If you are using this on a boat, you will probably have to run a wire to the negative terminal on the battery.
899485
You can certainly connect it directly to the battery; however that connection needs to be fused appropriately. Also, "the winch" you referenced may be an issue since the auxiliary fuse panel is only rated for 100 amps. If you wire directly to the battery I would ensure that you have an inline 100 amp fuse close to your battery. I installed mine with a reset-able breaker (100 amp) between the battery and the fuse panel.
1303163
Also be sure to make sure you have your radio code if required, if you choose to disconnect the negative battery terminal while installing. Good luck
1489589
Connects directly to battery Positiove and negatiove posts..........I suggest using a heavy duty fuse which is flat and has a clear fuse box.also thru amazon. Easy install. It does coem with cables.
2030748
Most vehicles use a negative ground. In general, when servicing a battery, you should always disconnect the ground side first. That way, if your wrench slips and you hit part of the vehicle, you'll just be connecting the ground side of the battery to the ground of the vehicle, which causes no harm. If you slipped when loosening the positive post, and the ground was still connected, you could connect the positive terminal of the battery to the ground, which would cause arcing, or worse. So, because of that safety issue, people always disconnect the ground side first, and switches like this are usually placed on the ground side. Disconnecting either battery terminal will stop the battery from charging, since you no longer have a complete circuit through the battery. If you leave your RV plugged in constantly, and leave the battery connected continuously, be sure that your RV's battery charger is well regulated. (Although, perhaps that's why you wanted this switch in the first place-to prevent your charger from overcharging the RV battery.) Handy Bob's Blog, HandyBobSolar, has a big page of good information about RV battery charging. It's the page entitled "The RV Battery Charging Puzzle". I think I'm not allowed to insert links here, so you'll need to Google for it. Handy Bob says the biggest problem with typical RV converters is that some of them never get the batteries fully charged, even if left plugged in 24 hrs/day. Handy Bob goes on to suggest buying a large automotive battery charger, one that puts out 25 amps, and use that a few hours each day. That sounds like overcharging to me, but he's the authority here. Personally, I use a smart charger to top off my batteries, and I generally disconnect them from the vehicle before charging, and it's a low-amperage charger, as well. Mine's the 7 Amp NOCO Genius charger, and I think it's sufficient, but I'm only charging medium-sized batteries one at a time.
1808302
I used 14 AWG stranded, because I use it as a constant fan for my truck. I also used a relay with an inline fuse to the battery for power, grounded to a good ground for power and switch ground. I attached the positive of the relay switch to a switch leg and back to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ignition at on position. check your manual or use a multimeter and test fuses that are only on with the key and off when the ignition is off. This protects your battery from drain and your electrical system from a fire. Maybe over kill but I had a vehicular fire under both gasoline and electrical (not proud of it just grateful to be alive). I hope that was of some help. I used 14 AWG stranded, because I use it as a constant fan for my truck. I also used a relay with an inline fuse to the battery for power, grounded to a good ground for power and switch ground. I attached the positive of the relay switch to a switch leg and back to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ignition at on position. check your manual or use a multimeter and test fuses that are only on with the key and off when the ignition is off. This protects your battery from drain and your electrical system from a fire. Maybe over kill but I had a vehicular fire under both... » Read More I used 14 AWG stranded, because I use it as a constant fan for my truck. I also used a relay with an inline fuse to the battery for power, grounded to a good ground for power and switch ground. I attached the positive of the relay switch to a switch leg and back to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ignition at on position. check your manual or use a multimeter and test fuses that are only on with the key and off when the ignition is off. This protects your battery from drain and your electrical system from a fire. Maybe over kill but I had a vehicular fire under both gasoline and electrical (not proud of it just grateful to be alive). I hope that was of some help. « Show Less
1899885
I didn't use a fuse block I went straight to the battery. I used the wire that came with the winch and have had no problems.