how do u measure watts needed to service u r house
1280069
Not being 'smart' but best to call an electrician to be sure. I had a whole house power meter which strapped onto the outdoor meter. It would give a good indication of what my average wattage was under a variety of conditions - A/C active (3kW), blower for furnace (500W), electric dryer (4.5kW), ... but what it didn't measure was the surge current like when a motor starts (which is typically 2x of the standing wattage). Exactly what your surge current requirements are depends on what devices you have installed, and when they will startup. If you can stagger when devices start up you can reduce the surge current requirement. You can also manually throttle up the generator as there is a lag between when a motor starts and the motor spinning up to match load (which results in voltage droop). And lastly you have to figure out how to wire it into your house ... maybe you only want a few circuits light up instead of the whole house (like your 500W plasma TV for example).
769228
You need to know the Amps. Volts x Amperes = Watts, or Watts divided by Volts = Amperes. Example say the appliance says 120V and 8Amp you mutiply 120 by 8 = 960Watts. If it says 1200W and 120V then you do 1200 divided by 120 = 10Amperes.
2233106
Sorry for the late reply:I think the wattage is calculated using an algorithm (speed, incline, etc.). I have never used a power meter before so I am afraid I cannot comment on how accurate it is.
1056811
Runs all the time . Not sure about the watts . Very little effect on my electric bill, if that's what worries you .
815155
I've been using it side by side with a digital usage meter provided by my utility company (SMUD) and it is always within 30 Watts (shows 30W less). Not a scientific test though :).
321849
If you every really want a good approximation got to http://pcpartpicker.com/ and build your setup and it will tell you estimated wattage.
1402464
There is no minimum watts load required that I know of. I have several of these throughout my house and all work as advertised. Check with the manufacturer.
526512
To get an approximation of your energy cost, multiply .9 (900 watts when cooling) times the cost of your electricity per KWH (kilowatthour) from your electric bill. Then multiply that product times the number of hours you expect to use it during the month. That should give you a good estimate.
2216983
Lets start like this You take the number of continous watts 600 and divide that by 120volts. 600W divided by 120volts= 5amps of power. Or look at the 600 Watts & think (6) 100 w lightbulbs all on at the same time.
1673087
It only shows runtime, load capacity and voltage. For watts you should look into a kill-a-watt device like this one: http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU I have one of those and it works great. Plug it in before the unit, then plug the unit into it and you will have the watt display of the whole ups.
1016912
It is 250 W so the panel or panels should not deliver more. Just connect the panels to it and plug it in to your 120 VAC outlet. That is it. You can connect it thru a watt meter to see how much it is delivering.
1386735
All house have 220 at the breaker box but it should be 110 after the breaker box and your house
439428
For an appliance that is manually operated (lights, microwave oven, toaster) you measure the power when it is on. This is the KiloWatts it uses. Multiply this value by the number of hours that the appliance is on in a month. Multiply that value by the $ per KWHr charged by your power company (around $0.15 is typical) and that will be your cost per month for that appliance. For something that is automatic, like a refrigerator or television, leave it plugged in for a day so you get a time period when door is shut for a while and when it is actively used. Multiply that KW reading by 30 days and then by the $0.15 and that will get you its monthly cost. For an appliance that is manually operated (lights, microwave oven, toaster) you measure the power when it is on. This is the KiloWatts it uses. Multiply this value by the number of hours that the appliance is on in a month. Multiply that value by the $ per KWHr charged by your power company (around $0.15 is typical) and that will be your cost per month for that appliance. For something that is automatic, like a refrigerator or television, leave it plugged in for a day so you get a time period when door is shut for a while and when it is actively used. Multiply that KW reading by 30 days... » Read More For an appliance that is manually operated (lights, microwave oven, toaster) you measure the power when it is on. This is the KiloWatts it uses. Multiply this value by the number of hours that the appliance is on in a month. Multiply that value by the $ per KWHr charged by your power company (around $0.15 is typical) and that will be your cost per month for that appliance. For something that is automatic, like a refrigerator or television, leave it plugged in for a day so you get a time period when door is shut for a while and when it is actively used. Multiply that KW reading by 30 days and then by the $0.15 and that will get you its monthly cost. « Show Less
1112126
add refrigerator amps and freezer amps= total amps times voltage=watts so if total watts are less than 3500 you are safe. it is more than I need
1952272
take the capacity of your transformer in watts, then the length of the pathway to determine the watts per foot, then work out the spacing based on the bulb wattage you have and/ or the number of lights you need without over loading the transformer
1457231
I used a Killawatt unit to measure my new ADR30A2G. With the fan speed on low it uses 276 watts. It was also drawing 2.59 amps and after 4 hours it used 1.07 kwh. Where I live that cost me around 8 cents, or 2 cents an hour, or a half a buck per day.
1409128
There is a chart on K&H;'s web site that you can use to fugure out what size watts you need for your pond and area.Good luck.