I cancelled this (newb) since my saw has a 20mm arbor. For 71/4" - what teeth count for smooth ply cuts? Have 36t blade. Enough? Recommendations?Thx
1257508
It depends (how is that for a handy answer). It depends on how fast you are feeding the saw, how sharp the teeth are and how straight you are pushing the saw - any wiggle tends to chew the edges of the cut. Use a good straight edge to saw against and put the good side DOWN when using a skill saw (the teeth cut as they come up). 36 or 40T should work good if you are careful.
1257509
I used this blade to cut plywood with my Skil circular saw and the results were great. I got almost mirror smooth cuts. Very important to set the blade depth according to the thickness of the plywood to ensure that the edges dont splinter. I even cut 84 inch long 30 degree bevel cuts in plywood with this blade in order to make some cabinet edges and had no problems. Just make sure to follow all the rules of cutting with circular saws like proper clamping and setting cutting guides, etc.
1257510
36 isn't going to be bad but expect some tear out still. If your wanting smooth finished look your going to want a higher tooth count. I use the 60T and get great results with it. Edge has an almost sanded finished to it when done. All depends on what your needs are.
1257511
The higher the tooth count, the smoother the cut. The Diablo performs flawlessly for the cuts which I have used the blade (plywood, fir, pine and oak). Recently, I accidentally cut through a metal roller I was using for support, and the blade continued to cut extremely well. I am pleased with the blades performance, however, I now need to replace the roller support.
2151570
The arbor hole is 1". I use the blades on a Sthil 250 brushcutter. They do a pretty decent job for the price. Hope this helps.
2088528
Dear inquirer. Most of us are using the Makita Blade with the Makita Saw. I find them to make quality products specifically for their own product line. Just be sure to get the correct # of teeth for the intended use. Happy Cutting--Bigfooot
155961
Damn good question. I ordered blades recommended by Amazon when I bought the MasterMind and they didn't fit. Wrong shaft size. Still sit in the case to this day. Amazon is not quite with the program regardless of their opinion of themselves. I regret I don't know the answer to your question. I have used the toothed blades that came with the saw to great effect. I learned to love this saw. Great tool when you get the drift of it. Hey... If you find composite blades for the thing, let me know where you got them. I'll buy them too.
464146
I thought all reciprocating saws used the standard blade system. If really concerned, take a blade out of your B&D; saw and check the end that fits into the saw. I think you will see it is the same end as any other blade by other manufacturers. I highly recommend these blades for cutting wood/prunning trees. I use my saw all the time on my wooded 3 acres lot and these blades have not failed.
1166305
Sir, in my humble opinion there is no blade anywhere close to the blade I have. I do make a lot with plain plywood, the same blade has inadvertently been used to cut a few nails and it still cuts quietly and sandpaper smooth. I have probably cut 20,000 feet of assorted materials hardwoods (even some Yarrow)and use it each day. All I have done is clean it three times. Hope this helps you. Boyd Jackson 71 yo woodbutcher frm Tx
190950
You will burn a lot of fuel and chain oil. I have a 20" saw and it works well, just don't force the cut
1005797
the arbor is pretty much standard. The brades are either 4 or 4.5 dia. You can get them from any number of catalogs. I get the blade with the most number of teeth. Freud and Yenryu are good brands. Just look for biscuit joiner blade and you can't go wrong.
754990
The blade that comes with the same is too coarse for cutting crowns. I would suggest 80 tooth or finer. That's larger issue for me is the fence as it comes on the saw. You will have to make a larger rigid fence to hold the moulding. The fence is shallow and not rigid, but you can bolt a taller wood fence to it.
1662143
This is a great saw and you will love it. If you want to saw 4in wood, get the 3/4 in blade and you should be fine.
1537375
The 1st order I placed was for the Oregon 541221 and that was the wrong one. After talking to Amazon service rep, she sent me Oregon 541655 and this was the right one. Make sure you check your sprocket teeth on your saw (ms290) and be sure it uses the low profile 3/8" pitch with .050"guage. Your owners book should tell you that info. My saw is the stihl 010 16" bar. It's an old one. This Oregon works very good on this saw. I also own a Stihl farm Boss 18" but would not put a Oregon on this one. I have a spare chain and sharpen the chain with the correct file I got from the Stihl dealer. Another suggestion-check with Oregon Company for the correct bar and chain kit for your saw. Hope this helps. The 1st order I placed was for the Oregon 541221 and that was the wrong one. After talking to Amazon service rep, she sent me Oregon 541655 and this was the right one. Make sure you check your sprocket teeth on your saw (ms290) and be sure it uses the low profile 3/8" pitch with .050"guage. Your owners book should tell you that info. My saw is the stihl 010 16" bar. It's an old one. This Oregon works very good on this saw. I also own a Stihl farm Boss 18" but would not put a Oregon on this one. I have a spare chain and sharpen the chain with the correct file I got from... » Read More The 1st order I placed was for the Oregon 541221 and that was the wrong one. After talking to Amazon service rep, she sent me Oregon 541655 and this was the right one. Make sure you check your sprocket teeth on your saw (ms290) and be sure it uses the low profile 3/8" pitch with .050"guage. Your owners book should tell you that info. My saw is the stihl 010 16" bar. It's an old one. This Oregon works very good on this saw. I also own a Stihl farm Boss 18" but would not put a Oregon on this one. I have a spare chain and sharpen the chain with the correct file I got from the Stihl dealer. Another suggestion-check with Oregon Company for the correct bar and chain kit for your saw. Hope this helps. « Show Less
1600267
I just went out to the shop and cut a 3/4 inch MDF board using the Makita SHO1W with a Makita 20 tooth blade. It was cutting about 3 feet per minute. In my opinion, it would be suitable for a few short cuts but not many long cuts.
1272798
The simple answer is it depends on the size of timber you're planning on cutting but in general you're going to want a 70cc or greater professional grade saw for this size mill. I'm in the Stihl camp for saws but only because I know them inside and out. I won't tell you to buy Stihl over Husqvarna but I will say you can't go wrong either way with the pro series. As for specifically what saws to get for this, on the Stihl side you're looking at the MS440 or MS441 as the smallest saw I would run with it. I personally use a Stihl MS461 with no problems running a 28" bar with Stihl chain ground to 10 degrees for ripping. I would however recommend that if you are new to using a chainsaw you seek out a professional to teach you how to use this size saw as they can kill you very quickly if not handled properly. The professional saws do not have the kickback reducing chains or bars and the protective chaps you can buy (and should always wear) will not necessarily stop the saw if the throttle is pegged. Otherwise good luck with all of your projects, you'll love the mill if you choose to get it! Hope that helps.
533820
It comes with which ever one you choose, depending on what your cutting. The harder the wood the more teeth per inch. I highly recommend the saw, with positive stops for a multitude of angles you can't loose. Any machinist rule will work. Dennis
1474052
Start with 150, change to 220, then, depending upon what kind of finish you want on to 400.That Makita planer is superb. Be sure to have your earprotector (headphone style) on. It'll wear down your hearing in no time.Oh, and most importat, be sure there are NO, ZERO, nails, staples, or brads -- or anything metal anywhere on the piece you're planing.Nothing destroys the blades faster than that. If you had one of these, you'll immediately see a raised streak on the finish of the planed board.No choice then but refinishing the blades or installing new ones.
901030
Matt I've been using it to cut Birch plywood and it seems fine but bogs down a bit. I think its the blade it came with because many people have said its poor quality. I'm planning to get a new one and see how it goes. Make sure to make a score cut on veneer plywood to avoid chip-out though. Also the track is in two sections and tends to move at the connection. Check your measurements well on long cuts. If I had the money for the name brand saws I would have bought one but I went in 50/50 with my father in law on this one. Don't get me wrong its good but you have to work within its limitations. Matt I've been using it to cut Birch plywood and it seems fine but bogs down a bit. I think its the blade it came with because many people have said its poor quality. I'm planning to get a new one and see how it goes. Make sure to make a score cut on veneer plywood to avoid chip-out though. Also the track is in two sections and tends to move at the connection. Check your measurements well on long cuts. If I had the money for the name brand saws I would have bought one but I went in 50/50 with my father in law on this one. Don't get me wrong its good but you have to work within its limitations.
1915154
I agree with high speed good blade for clean cut. I like thin kerf marathon blade. It's a question with many variables...I'm a cabinet maker/finish carpenter. Maybe a little more torque for heavy beam cuts could be nice. But my Skil saw keeps me happy everywhere I go...