What is the best saw blade for cutting fine wood trim that fits this saw?
1268822
I have never used this to cut wood, just metal with the blade it comes with. I have another Milwaukee cordless saw for wood, the much bigger one. HH.
764056
I have cut 3/4 inch red oak with mine.... Try different speeds to see what works best for you....
382977
The blade that comes with the B&D; trim Saw attachment have a standard 15 mm diameter arbor. These are made to that standard. I'm betting that they'll fit, as I just ordered them for My B&D; Matrix system.
334522
I haven't used it much, but it is small. Probably best suited for thicknesses of one or two pieces of stained glass stacked and cutting intricate shapes. Might be faster than all the cuts necessary with a regular hand held cutter. Other than that my suggestion would be a larger type wet saw with rotary diamond blade...maybe even industrial size with a 10 inch blade. Probably would be faster, and blade last much longer. Just my opinion though. best regards
206005
Any 4" blade will work in the saw, best bet is probably eBay or specialty online stores.
576558
Get an after market blade, and you should have no problem with 4" oak. The blade that came with the saw was not the greatest. I picked up a new 1/4 inch & 1/2 inch for like $15 bucks... cutting is night and day compared to the stack blade.
1132972
I think this saw would work for you, just keep your fingers away from the blade. I bought mine to use to cut metal strips to use in stained glass projects. Good luck.
496115
I have two of these saws and have only cut wood. If you can find a blade that will cut metal you could try cutting metal with it and see if the results are satisfactory. I am inclined to believe it will not work well but it is worth a try
819715
I have the same saw. Check out Home Depot. I bought what's called a Universal Edge Guide. I had to do some minor filling on the mounting slots of the shoe of the saw. Works great!
448592
I wouldn't hesitate to try it. The cut is very close. The blade is thinner than most saw blades. It is flexible so you can get it to lie flush against the surface. There is a medium tooth side and a fine tooth side. You may require a tad of sanding or a sharp razor knife to finish if there is a splinter left. edit: I see the suggestion that it may be too large for flush cutting. I would say that all depends on how tight your work space is. I have cut many delicate materials with this saw and it does everything I've ever tried t on. That said, if you have a huge saw budget, get as many saws as you wnat. This one does a lot for one tool. I wouldn't hesitate to try it. The cut is very close. The blade is thinner than most saw blades. It is flexible so you can get it to lie flush against the surface. There is a medium tooth side and a fine tooth side. You may require a tad of sanding or a sharp razor knife to finish if there is a splinter left. edit: I see the suggestion that it may be too large for flush cutting. I would say that all depends on how tight your work space is. I have cut many delicate materials with this saw and it does everything I've ever tried t on. That said, if you have a huge saw budget, get as many saws... » Read More I wouldn't hesitate to try it. The cut is very close. The blade is thinner than most saw blades. It is flexible so you can get it to lie flush against the surface. There is a medium tooth side and a fine tooth side. You may require a tad of sanding or a sharp razor knife to finish if there is a splinter left. edit: I see the suggestion that it may be too large for flush cutting. I would say that all depends on how tight your work space is. I have cut many delicate materials with this saw and it does everything I've ever tried t on. That said, if you have a huge saw budget, get as many saws as you wnat. This one does a lot for one tool. « Show Less
1773531
I have a multi-blade set that has 10" and 12" blades, which work fine. I think you can feel safe to use whatever length blade is available, especially from Milwaukee. I think the limit will be what you are cutting. For really wide, hard materials (10" oak tree trunk) just take your time and don't overburden the saw. Let it do the job without overheating. You should be fine.
649523
You can have your current blade resharpened. I purchased the Oshlun -SBW164032 32 tooth beam saw blade as a replacement blade and it works very well for cutting beams and logs.
1242919
Elton, Your saw uses T type blades which these are. They should work well for you.
1742709
Sounds like this saw may be just what you need. It's very simple to operate and the blades don't easily break or come loose. It has more than adequate power for most wood projects. I actually used it mostly on fiberboard but some wood and a little bit of thin sheet metal. It did everything I asked of it except cut a straight cut which all depends on the operator. If this is in your price range I think you'll be quite satisfied with it.
1890230
You have a nice saw. I believe you have a 1" arbor so this blade will work fine. The one problem I have with Forrest blades is they seem to want to spread throughout the shop one you use one, you'll want them everywhere, I have five including a dado for the table saw. Keep the pitch off with a good resin cleaner. If they become dull from use or you hit a nail (made me sick when I did) send them to Forrest to have them reconditioned, it will be money well spent. Be safe, have fun.bob
271124
This saw blade is made specifically for wallboard. I do not believe it will perform well cutting wood. You need a fine tooth crosscut saw to avoid damage to the legs.
1720338
6 1/2" saw blade, suggest finish saw blades for smooth cuts. Rough cuts get jammed.