I am using this to start a Generac.4800 w generator. Running 3 batteries, 12 v, each 360 cranking amps. amperage rating on this will prolong its life?
1264578
This would probably work provided your starter doesn't draw more than 300amps peak, but this is a continuos duty solenoid not a starting solenoid.
1264579
Gary, I'm not sure what your asking here. Could you be more specific? The solenoid (the two smaller screws) and the power connections (the two larger connectors) both operate on 12VDC. It doesn't matter how much current (amperage) you have available for the solenoid (as long as it's enough to operate it) as it will only draw the current it needs to operate. As far as the power switch goes, you can pull up to the rated 150 amps through it. It should last as long as it's designed to at up to 150 amps. More than that will likely shorten it's life. A lot more than that will probably burn it out instantly. Again, if you can be more specific, I'd be happy to help. Gary, I'm not sure what your asking here. Could you be more specific? The solenoid (the two smaller screws) and the power connections (the two larger connectors) both operate on 12VDC. It doesn't matter how much current (amperage) you have available for the solenoid (as long as it's enough to operate it) as it will only draw the current it needs to operate. As far as the power switch goes, you can pull up to the rated 150 amps through it. It should last as long as it's designed to at up to 150 amps. More than that will likely shorten it's life. A lot more than that will probably burn it out... » Read More Gary, I'm not sure what your asking here. Could you be more specific? The solenoid (the two smaller screws) and the power connections (the two larger connectors) both operate on 12VDC. It doesn't matter how much current (amperage) you have available for the solenoid (as long as it's enough to operate it) as it will only draw the current it needs to operate. As far as the power switch goes, you can pull up to the rated 150 amps through it. It should last as long as it's designed to at up to 150 amps. More than that will likely shorten it's life. A lot more than that will probably burn it out instantly. Again, if you can be more specific, I'd be happy to help. « Show Less
910679
It should be good to go. I use mine to keep my camp trailer lights, microwave running, refrigerator and video system all at the same time. With all that the 20 amp circuit breaker has never kicked off. It will not run my air conditioner which pulls 30 amps. This has been my experience with my unit. Champion has another model which will support 30 amps but I believe it weights more and is a more expensive unit. However, these generators are hard to beat for the price.
2111328
This unit will tell you cold cranking amps and several other European standards for amperage. But, it does not put much of a load on the battery as far as I can tell. I have tested batteries with this unit that appear to have acceptable CCA levels but do not pass a load test.
831794
I would not recommend due to the contact pins on the battery where it makes contact to the equipment. I would use what is recommended and what battery comes with each equipment. Higher voltage will also burn the motor up.
1352309
0 Gauge wire should be used!That is what is ran to my Brutus.At the very least a deep cycle battery (fast discharge) should be used!My total system wattage is 5400& I use 0 to each amplifer!The more voltage the better!!!Don't Skimp Out!
1567085
Yes of course, that is exactly what the 12v output is for. However, it is only 4 amps so it would take a while. Also, it has no smart limit or anything so it will be able to overcharge the battery bank.I would recommend using a standard 120v AC charger plugged into the normal AC outlet of the generator. It will charge faster and safer.That said, the answer is yes.
237794
The switch will work fine for the generator battery - it will actually be overkill in that application. The switch intended application carries the full current of a marine battery to a large starter motor - which is over 100 amps ....and up to the full 500 cold cranking amp capability of a marine battery.
1123421
115-230 VAC is a selection, not a range. So if you select 115 VAC then you have selected the correct output for this inverter as it is a nominal 120 VAC inverter. With a range between 7.5 amps and 15 amps being drawn by the compressor, the inverter is just a bit shy of what you require. Another big problem will be the stoutness of the battery you are using. From a static 12 VDC source (stand alone battery), converting it to 120 VAC, drawing 15 amps, the power used would be 1,800 watts. That is a little past the rated 1,500 watts, but not beyond the momentary peak of 3,000 watts. From an active 14.5 VDC source (a 12 Volt battery driven by a alternator), converting it to 120 VAC and drawing 15 amps, the power used would be 1,740 watts. Again, that is a little past the rated 1,500 watts, but not beyond the momentary peak of 3,000 watts. But here is the catch, an AC inverter is never 100% efficient, so the calculations stated above are actually worse. Could be 20% off or more 'off' due to inefficiency. Technically, you could run your compressor for a few moments without damage to the inverter, but this inverter would not be the proper selection for your work load. I would select something in the 2,400 watt range for the continuous power required that you seek. This would give you 20 amps minus 20% inefficiency giving you 16 amps of reliable current. So 2,500 watts, with the ability to surge to 5,000 watts momentarily (allowing a 100% overage of current drawn on start up for the motor of the compressor) should fit your bill. All units will be very happy with each other (provided you have a robust battery, or battery bank). An "8D" battery would serve you well (but pretty heavy at 161 lbs each). Do not forget "voltage drop" that happens, and make sure you use HEAVY cables to the battery; perhaps 2/0 pure copper (not copper clad) cables. This will keep your input high. It is worth the expense (and you only buy them once).
1696626
William these units are designed for trolling motors. The amps are 30 amps while the battery is 85 amp hours Running wide open ie a pellet stove needing same amps is 3hr continuous running. Check the amps of the pellet stove to see if it will work. Ideally I would have a generator handy in winter survival conditions.
1298231
I used a #10 stranded copper wire THHN is good for 30 amps. I ran a red and black from the charge controller out to the battery terminals. The charger will keep a constant and monitoring voltage for your 12 volt battery. You may want to add a Wattsup to give more information and condition of the process.
1680649
Not recommended for deep cycle batteries. See Amazon website about this Maintain up to four 12 Volt standard, starting batteries (of similar type - in parallel). Amperage is divided evenly among connected batteries. (NOT recommended for deep cycle batteries)
936843
It would depend on the generator. You need to compare the duty cycles at certain amp draws. If you give me the duty cycle or the generator at the 220 volt setting, I could compare it to the welder specs that came with mine. BTW it has run flawlessly and was easy to assemble and packed well. The box was banged up when it arrived, but the padding was so good that nothing inside was dinged or bent.On the higher setting, I burned through some 1/4 mild steel to make some 6" dia. access holes and the welder never missed a beat or came close to overheating. If you are just welding for a repair and not doing production work, that 30A breaker might just be good enough. It would depend on the generator. You need to compare the duty cycles at certain amp draws. If you give me the duty cycle or the generator at the 220 volt setting, I could compare it to the welder specs that came with mine. BTW it has run flawlessly and was easy to assemble and packed well. The box was banged up when it arrived, but the padding was so good that nothing inside was dinged or bent.On the higher setting, I burned through some 1/4 mild steel to make some 6" dia. access holes and the welder never missed a beat or came close to overheating. If you are just welding... » Read More It would depend on the generator. You need to compare the duty cycles at certain amp draws. If you give me the duty cycle or the generator at the 220 volt setting, I could compare it to the welder specs that came with mine. BTW it has run flawlessly and was easy to assemble and packed well. The box was banged up when it arrived, but the padding was so good that nothing inside was dinged or bent.On the higher setting, I burned through some 1/4 mild steel to make some 6" dia. access holes and the welder never missed a beat or came close to overheating. If you are just welding for a repair and not doing production work, that 30A breaker might just be good enough. « Show Less
1472546
The device is rated for 90 dc volts @15 amps- It's not good to max out electrical components, but that being said they are designed for some safety if you go over the specs. You don't have to put in 90 volts to make this motor run- It won't run as fast, but it will run on a lot less volts and amps and you can easily stay within the controller specs. Will it run the motor as is- yes- maxed out, but your taking a risk with the heat it will produce and it will burn out.I'm running a 24dc volt motor using a 12.6 auto battery/ using 1.5 amps. Works great for my project.
377194
Hi, I purchased this switch for my 20kw Generac generator. The switch works great but I cannot comment on how it would work in your case. I would ask a certified electrican. Sorry. Morris
1301483
I have two twelve volt batterys connected to the back. I also have OO cables with 250 amp fuses . One per line. And so far I ran everything from a 30 gallon bostich compressor, a skill saw, grinder.and a 8,000btu air conditioner, for 2 hours and no problems. So for no problems. I highly recommend this product.
326030
just look at the rating on the box. I'm using a smaller generator, and it works fine. BTW, there is a similar unit from the same company rated for 7000 watts (7kw), if you need to go larger. The box is the same size I think, but the connector arrangement is probably different, to handle more amperage. Good luck!
740723
This unit produces the correct 12 volts from the 36 volt battery bank to power your winch. However, be careful of the output current draw required for winch. The voltage reducer is rated at 10 amps output, so any equipment current draw should stay under that value. You should find the current requirement for your winch on its paperwork or somewhere on the winch itself. Be aware that it will draw much more current under load. For additional safety, I installed a 10 amp fuse in line with my reducer's 12 volt output line. This should be a "slow blow" type fuse to allow for initial current surge often experienced with motors (such as my garden sprayer). I'd rather blow a fuse than burn out my reducer. This unit produces the correct 12 volts from the 36 volt battery bank to power your winch. However, be careful of the output current draw required for winch. The voltage reducer is rated at 10 amps output, so any equipment current draw should stay under that value. You should find the current requirement for your winch on its paperwork or somewhere on the winch itself. Be aware that it will draw much more current under load. For additional safety, I installed a 10 amp fuse in line with my reducer's 12 volt output line. This should be a "slow blow" type fuse to allow for initial... » Read More This unit produces the correct 12 volts from the 36 volt battery bank to power your winch. However, be careful of the output current draw required for winch. The voltage reducer is rated at 10 amps output, so any equipment current draw should stay under that value. You should find the current requirement for your winch on its paperwork or somewhere on the winch itself. Be aware that it will draw much more current under load. For additional safety, I installed a 10 amp fuse in line with my reducer's 12 volt output line. This should be a "slow blow" type fuse to allow for initial current surge often experienced with motors (such as my garden sprayer). I'd rather blow a fuse than burn out my reducer. « Show Less