how do i know if i have an L or K frame? its a 686-5 smith
1262641
You have an L frame. What you need to check is if it is square or round butt. Older models are square, newer are round butt. Not sure about a -5 but shouldn't take long to find if you look it up.
1262642
K frames were built early on for the 38 special and 22. L frames are more robust built to handle magnum rounds such the 357 mag. The 686 is an L. The Smith & Wesson site has lots of info.
1262643
If your piece was manufactured prior to 1996, it is a "square butt", 1996 to present they are "round butt".
1262644
hey man i bought this and i have a 686-5 get the round frame.. i went to local dealer and they told me it was a round frame
1262645
686 is an L frame. The 5 indicates the modifications to the original design in production. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_%26_Wesson_Model_686 I believe the 686-5 was the last model made without the internal lock, but I could be wrong.
380090
Yes the model 10 is a k frame You need to know if you have a square but or a round but. The grips are great
1557121
What kind of frame is your gun? If it's a k frame or a j frame it will work just fine.
506338
Brady, its difficult to tell without seeing both pics to see what you are talking about!!! The dbl handle and wide spool suggests its a 6001 ( the 1 being the left hand designation) from the normal right handed 6000...Without seeinf the difference you are talking about,,thats the best I can do...Sorry!! JimThis may also be a 6501, the 5 designates a "fast retrieve" ratio over the 000 models
1244499
Don't pay much attention to the pics. They are LT 265/70/17 ATS. I bought 2 of them and getting ready to buy another 2. Just an FYI they DON'T have white lettering these are BLACK raised letters if that matters.
240904
The 20/70 KD (Keyed Different) all come keyed random ... for Keyed Alike (KA) you will need the 20/70 KA: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GAN03O
1890475
this should the right fit,i ordered this for a modle 36 j frame and needed to return them. however if you have a 37 square but your be ok
1308025
It will say on the side if gen 4 but If it doesn't have it written then Google and look at the recoil springs to compare and the frame you can tell a difference or go to glock and type in serial number
365163
You can try looking it up by the serial number. They typically will indicate a production period. Oldguns.net has a lookup tgat may halp you
135455
I used this grip on my 686 and it works great. I have the square-butt frame, not the round-butt frame.
1459746
I remember I looked in a web page of the clip brand and there you can download all the shapes they have and the actual measures of each. After you found the shape and exact measure of your frames you write the item number to chech if Amazon has it available. That is what I did and worked very well. Good luck!
1335466
they sent me a 27.2 when I ordered a 26.8... they had told me it was indeed a 26.8 when I asked them BEFORE I purchased... they refunded my money... ask them before you buy it! I wanted one for my old diamondback ascent mtb.... i'll just keep riding the nice aluminum one I found elsewhere for now, besides, the weight is almost the same within a few grams....
2027699
I got it for my son in law who has a S&W; J Frame(not sure which model). Haven't heard any complaints as yet.
1416461
It fits the Smith K and L frames perfectly. I use it with a 4 inch 681 and 686. However, the .44 mag is built on the larger N frame and my GUESS is that the 5Bh will be too small.
155601
There should be a chart on the site that tells you , I am going to guess a European 43, but look for the chart
1920285
the first number (68mm) is the width of the this cylinder that holds the bearings and the axle that the cranks are screwed on.the second number (110 or 113mm) is the measurement of the axle itself. to find out what that measurement is you need to rip the cranks off your bike. they have special tools for that just in case you don't know. with a "caliper gauge" you can then easily measure the axl. but if you so far that you unmounted the cranks then you might as well remove the bottom bracket(also with a special tool).on that BB itself there should be a label with all the measurement on it.hope it helped a little. the first number (68mm) is the width of the this cylinder that holds the bearings and the axle that the cranks are screwed on.the second number (110 or 113mm) is the measurement of the axle itself. to find out what that measurement is you need to rip the cranks off your bike. they have special tools for that just in case you don't know. with a "caliper gauge" you can then easily measure the axl. but if you so far that you unmounted the cranks then you might as well remove the bottom bracket(also with a special tool).on that BB itself there... » Read More the first number (68mm) is the width of the this cylinder that holds the bearings and the axle that the cranks are screwed on.the second number (110 or 113mm) is the measurement of the axle itself. to find out what that measurement is you need to rip the cranks off your bike. they have special tools for that just in case you don't know. with a "caliper gauge" you can then easily measure the axl. but if you so far that you unmounted the cranks then you might as well remove the bottom bracket(also with a special tool).on that BB itself there should be a label with all the measurement on it.hope it helped a little. « Show Less
2282845
Just go to the Stabilis website and you can look up the part number yourself and see what the weight ratings are.