Can you run the engine with the tent attached to cool/heat with rear HVAC controls? Do you need side venting exhaust? re-posted here for top level visibility:Thanks All!I just wanted to see if getting the chill out of the kids on cold mornings (or getting out of sweltering heat with the car's AC) would be possible without un-linking from the tent for 10 minutes of idle time - just sitting in the back seats. Sounds like the tent is right on top of the exhaust so that will be a no go.Agreed Daniel CO poisoning is no good. Can you run the engine with the tent attached to cool/heat with rear HVAC controls? Do you need side venting exhaust? re-posted here for top level visibility:Thanks All! » Read More Can you run the engine with the tent attached to cool/heat with rear HVAC controls? Do you need side venting exhaust? re-posted here for top level visibility:Thanks All!I just wanted to see if getting the chill out of the kids on cold mornings (or getting out of sweltering heat with the car's AC) would be possible without un-linking from the tent for 10 minutes of idle time - just sitting in the back seats. Sounds like the tent is right on top of the exhaust so that will be a no go.Agreed Daniel CO poisoning is no good. « Show Less
1269376
My truck does not have rear exhaust, so I have no experience with that. But as long as there is some space to slide the "tunnel" fabric between the exhaust pipe and the rear bumper, and assuming the exhaust pipe doesn't get hot (I've never touched one that might be), I think exhaust would not be your biggest problem. IMO, your biggest problem is the limited HVAC capacity of the vehicle and the lack of insulation of the tent. For environmental reasons, PLEASE don't run your engine extensively while camping. And if other tent campers are in the vicinity, please consider that they didn't come that far to hear your engine noises. Thank you. My truck does not have rear exhaust, so I have no experience with that. But as long as there is some space to slide the "tunnel" fabric between the exhaust pipe and the rear bumper, and assuming the exhaust pipe doesn't get hot (I've never touched one that might be), I think exhaust would not be your biggest problem. IMO, your biggest problem is the limited HVAC capacity of the vehicle and the lack of insulation of the tent. For environmental reasons, PLEASE don't run your engine extensively while camping. And if other tent campers are in the vicinity, please consider that they... » Read More My truck does not have rear exhaust, so I have no experience with that. But as long as there is some space to slide the "tunnel" fabric between the exhaust pipe and the rear bumper, and assuming the exhaust pipe doesn't get hot (I've never touched one that might be), I think exhaust would not be your biggest problem. IMO, your biggest problem is the limited HVAC capacity of the vehicle and the lack of insulation of the tent. For environmental reasons, PLEASE don't run your engine extensively while camping. And if other tent campers are in the vicinity, please consider that they didn't come that far to hear your engine noises. Thank you. « Show Less
1269377
Not sure what the HVAC is. However, I personally wouldn't run the truck while people are in the tent. Finally, I have a side exhaust pipe. I know the entire back of the truck is covered by the tent at the bottom and the attached sides rap around the wheel wells. At the very least the side tailpipe will melt the tent. SO be careful. Hope that helped.
1269378
From the Manual- "Do not run the motor of the vehicle that the tent is attached to. This can cause serious injury or death from carbon monoxide poisoning." Annoying your neighbors is the least of your problem, you can die. In the fall we use a small electric heater with a fan and thermostat, $10.00 from Wally world. We don,t camp in the winter.
680596
No, that's the only part that I have considered a pain about the tent, You must practically tape or adhere your exhaust to the exhaust tube in the roof on the left side and my carbon was set up with the exhaust.
1460501
Good day, I ran mine in a 28 ' RV for extra heat. Because it is unvented there is always a concern about low oxygen and excess carbon dioxide in a tight space. I had windows slightly open to vent. I was surprised how much condensation occurred on the windows too. It was nice and quiet. Always beware if the house is tightly wrapped in plastic that you have some ventilation good luck Mike
1379851
We run this from the back of our 17' cube van but aim the exhaust outside. It is still not a good idea I know, but the terrain we work on occasionally does not allow us to take it down and move it around. In an enclosure it will be loud, hot and of course noxious (read deadly) to anything living. I would not recommend it at all unless properly vented & cooled.
1868810
Our experience is over a three week road trip. We used the cooler the entire time we were in the car and never had any trouble with the exhaust fan heating the air. Ours always stayed cool the entire trip.
2159040
We never ran ours more than 10 to 15 hours a day, when it was warmer and drier and never at night or during the rain. I inserted it in a square frame of wood with the appropriate size hole and inserted it to blow in or draw out, and ran it all last summer. We do not use it in the winter as we close off all the vent openings. I do not know your circumstances for running it, but maybe it would be a different story if the application was "continuous" as opposed to "sporadic". For me: So Far So Good.
21039
Yes. It comes with the 4" hose. You *could* run it without, but I wouldn't recommend it because otherwise it would be like running a heater and an AC unit both at the same time. They can get away with it at hardware stores, because the store itself is not reliant on the portable AC unit's cooling. I wouldn't trust any portable AC unit that didn't have a way to pump the hot air out. Also, I've used these units in sliding glass doors. The way I did that was take a piece of wood that fit inside the door, Say 7' x 12" and cut a hole with a jig saw big enough for the AC's exhaust vent hose. Then I just screwed the vent to the wood and could close the screen / door and still have the AC working. I've seen people run the exhaust hose through floors before, say in a crawl space, but my opinion is heat rises and that could make the floor hot and might make the motor run hotter.
1540382
well it looks like they answered your question. my opinion is i would think if built a large enough enclosureand then made a exhaust large enough that was mounted to the enclosure so that it wasn't connected to the generator with no bends just straight and over sized. it would work but that is just me.
1696520
This generator must be outdoors. There is no way you can direct the exhaust outside and it is a very nasty smell of propane and co2. It will function well with a solar system if you know when to turn it on. Sunny Island (sma) will only allow the power from this to charge at nite. Outbacks might not have this problem. I'm off grid. With such a big place you must have lots of batteries to charge on cloudy , rainy days. But I gather you have AC from the utility and are feeding back excess power. If you do you may want to look at a different model which may cost less.
2144519
You will need a place to exhaust the air that is used to cool the compressor. Oh, and this is IMPORTANT!!!!! When I got the unit set up and running in the bedroom I found that the unit was fighting itself on cooling because the exhaust hose used to cool the compressor etc. was hotter than heck. I talked to the Sylvane people and they said that was normal. What???? So, I have an AC working at the top and a room heater working in the back thru the exhaust hose, pretty much greatly reducing the cooling efficiency. I ended up buying a roll of 1/4 inch thick air cell insulation with the silver mylar face, front and back, and using ac/heating duct aluminum duct tape and wrapping strips around the exhaust hose triple thickness until I couldn't feel any difference between room temperature and the surface of the hose. I would think they would provide an insulated exhaust hose.
1671328
It is required to be OUTSIDE. The Exhaust from natural gas is pretty clean, yet toxic and being so cleaned you won't noticed you are being poisoned. KEEP IT OUTSIDE. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD IT BE IN A GARAGE. I am not yelling, I am just making sure you get it. The plastic is pretty durable, but if you want to extend its life, put a vinyl fence around it for shade. Just make sure to leave enough space to breath and exhaust as well as to do maintenance. Also make sure you instal it with plenty of clearance from the house. At least 3 ft, but check the local code.
454422
I'm installing mine in a vintage camper which has hood above it that vents outside. That said, the source the propane tank should be either outside or in a sealed compartment vented to the outdoors. The only propane connection should be at the stove itself all the other connections (regulator, solenoid, etc) should be made in the enclosure or outside.
246217
I got the 150 watt model like this and placed it on thin steel plate (with intent of bolting that up to a small engine that doesn't have a good surface). Without it bolted up to the engine, the plate temp was 140 degrees after 1 minute, then ~200 after another minute and I pulled the plug then. After letting it cool enough to handle it I bolted it up to the small engine. To begin with the engine temp was 42 degrees and after having it plugged in for 10 minutes the oil sump area of the engine was at ~65 degrees. I've not tried going overnight, but seeing the temp go to 200+ does show the possibility of how hot it could get (and one guy in a review of one of these says "unsafe in any application...cuz has no temp regulation..."). Of course other considerations include how cold is it for you (are you in a north state like Minnesota?) and where are you placing it (on an oil pan where you're just heating the oil or on a car engine block that's real thick). I may try a test of leaving mine on the small engine for at least an hour to see how hot it gets (both near the base where it is and near the top of the engine) and will add a post if I do.
612772
This is how I did it----and it works perfectly by the way----I bought an inexpensive exhaust chimney set up. 'Goes like this: 1. a rectangular dryer vent housing that fits over the entire top of the L5. I removed the handle from the heater and attached the vent where the screws secure the handle. The vent has a 3" pipe fixture on it. 2. cut a 5" hole in our cabin----through the ceiling and out of the roof in the bathroom----and then took sheet roof flashing and fashioned a tube to use as a heat block from the 3" exhaust pipe going up and out of the cabin. 3. the 3" exhaust pipe and a articulating elbow----fitted to my needs through the roof 4. self sealing rubber chimney flashing----3" of course with----raised to about 2' from the roof. 5. a wire mesh over the chimney, then a chimney cap 6. tar the seams everywhere you can. I hope this helps. I made my assembly with wood trim in the bathroom as well.
30233
It does require a fresh air intake as well as an exhaust. Attic air will likely be far too warm for heat exchange purposes.
1695321
Yes i have one going into my tent with 8 in duct for frsh air. And one attached to my two 600watt hps hoods pulling hot air out. Great fans my have been running for over a year straight with no noises. Every 3 months pull apart and dust it. I recommend using a reducer on the end of ur hood thats sucking air. It creates higher flow rates cetered over your bulbs. Make sure to use ladies leggings over the reducer abd over your intake fan to keep dust out of the tent and off ur bulbs. Gl brotha hope i helped.. toke on
2023714
All safety instructions say to not use it indoors. I have lived off the grid for many years and have used several types of catalytic type heaters to heat the inside of my cabins or boats. They are safe as long as you have enough incoming air. Most of the newer units have a CO sensor that will shut it down if the monoxide level gets dangerous. That said, I would NEVER go to bed with one of these or any other LP heater or cooking unit going in an enclosed space. Safe enough to use responsibly in a trailer, ice fishing tent, shop or garage as long as it is not left unattended for a multitude or potential safety reasons. All said I love this heater. All safety instructions say to not use it indoors. I have lived off the grid for many years and have used several types of catalytic type heaters to heat the inside of my cabins or boats. They are safe as long as you have enough incoming air. Most of the newer units have a CO sensor that will shut it down if the monoxide level gets dangerous. That said, I would NEVER go to bed with one of these or any other LP heater or cooking unit going in an enclosed space. Safe enough to use responsibly in a trailer, ice fishing tent, shop or garage as long as it is not left unattended for a multitude... » Read More All safety instructions say to not use it indoors. I have lived off the grid for many years and have used several types of catalytic type heaters to heat the inside of my cabins or boats. They are safe as long as you have enough incoming air. Most of the newer units have a CO sensor that will shut it down if the monoxide level gets dangerous. That said, I would NEVER go to bed with one of these or any other LP heater or cooking unit going in an enclosed space. Safe enough to use responsibly in a trailer, ice fishing tent, shop or garage as long as it is not left unattended for a multitude or potential safety reasons. All said I love this heater. « Show Less