Looking for a small bandsaw to use for working rustic type furniture,could i get through 4-6inches w/this?Medium use,this model or,cheaper be better?
1245970
Four inches is maximum thickness on this machine. If you want four to six inch in height then you need to move up to a larger machine.
1245971
For 4 to 6 inch thickness I would go with a bigger bandsaw. This will cut 4 inch stock ok but I cut a lot of exotics and the denser woods really slow this bandsaw down to where I wish I'd got a larger model. For 2 to 3 inch and a good blade it works good. I use it for cutting my lathe wood down to a rounded blank for turning.
1245972
I would go for a model with a bigger motor. This one chokes with a 1/2" rip blade on 3" stock... I do carving, and rough cut my small stock on it, though feeding it very, very slowly.
1245973
So far it seems to work o k i have nt used it too much however i had a problem with the drive belt ,as it wandered off the pulley.and had to get the belt replaced. you need special pliers to get the ring off. But i would get the 14 in saw, as it would give you more height and had to
1245974
If you're talking about 4-6" thick, no you will not be happy, consider the 10-325. I have both and the 10-305 is a nice little bandsaw but it won't handle thick lumber like that. The 10-325 on the other hand, I have resawn a 13" wide piece of 8/4 ash with excellent results.
429115
This is a hack saw that is used for metal. Since you need one to cut light weight wood such as bass wood, poplar or pine check out the Stanley 20-221 mini utility saw. This kind of saw would be good for wood probably less than 1/2" thick. If you want to cut thicker wood check out the cross cut saws. They all are rated not just by length but by the number of points (PTS). The more points the finer the cut, it also means it will take longer to cut through the wood. If you are doing modeling type of work you can use several different types of saws but if you just want to cut straight a dovetail saw may help, there are also gent saws a smaller version. If need to cut circular patterns a coping saw or the lighter weight fret saw may be what you need. I realize that you only asked a simple question and I, obviously, gave a very long answer but I don't know exactly what you want to cut so I apologize. It just may be the first two options should be the choice to make.
810077
The wood itself is fairly hard and would probably withstand medium to light contact with some moderate damage to the ha and mune areas of the blade. Unless your training kids or are very young yourself and not planning to make hard contact I would opt for something a bit heavier and larger. IMO what your wanting to do requires one of the larger, more heavy duty bokkens out there. They come in all shapes and sizes and in every price range. But the good news is that the the cheaper more commonplace ones work out almost as well as high end ones. Personally I favor bokkens that have no wrapping and no tsuba because it teaches you to rely on superior gripping technique rather than whatever hardware the katana may have on it.
338094
I have both the metal cutting and wood cutting versions of this saw. Was at a job site recently where I only had the metal cutting saw, and naturally needed to cut a 2X4. It cuts a wider path and the blade spins about 1/3 as fast, but it did a good job of cutting, certainly not worth going back home just for a couple of wood cuts. As previously answered, the miter set up would not lend itself to any precision woodworking.
2237599
yea buy a six inch angle grinder 30$-200 and buy some cut off wheals (they are the thin ones 1/8 maybe or less look them up they are great but gone need a pack of them if you got a lot of cutting , or Sawzall 100$with proper blades for soft metal , a portable band saw 400$ +/-50 Milwaukee makes a great one in my opinion plus is you can cut any thing with it and blades last a long time if you good to them
1700165
Some guys like the sidewinders. I prefer worm drives though I admit that as I approach 70 my strength has ebbed considerably. Even though I think a worm drive is easier to control and more powerful for long rips, I like the relatively puny Festool track saw for shop work and installations. The DWS535 is a better machine for framing if that's what you're buying a circle saw for. That is really what it boils down to: your strength and the work you'll mostly be doing. Framing lumber is never really flat and the extra power of a worm drive lays waste to lumber that wants to twist or pinch the blade as you knock out the work.
897214
I primarily use this saw for glass. I have used it on copper bar that was .37" thick. The saw really didn't like doing it. It is under powered for use with metal or thick materials and for production work it would be nearly useless. It is a craft saw (which means toy). It works great on glass, tile, and thin wood. But it sounds like you are going to need a machine that has more power. I have thought that a ring saw might have been a better idea. Good Hunting.
179745
This is a fairly light duty router. If you are cutting 3/4" wide dadoes, it will do it if you take light, successive passes. If that is the main function of the router, I'd go with something beefier that has a 1/2" collet. This is a great little router for trimming edges, round overs, ogees, etc. and for light jobs where you need a plunge.
2130892
It'll be slow. Additionally there will be more wear and tear on your saw. But it will work. If you are planning on ripping a full 20" though, I'd consider a bigger saw.
736718
Previous responses are on target. This is smaller than the typical "sawzall" and well suited to similar but smaller tasks. Is very well-suited to cutting in tight places where a larger saw may not fit.
1296412
The axe is best for cutting wood along the grain. It may work for breaking the branches lengthwise but hard. Saw will be better and they are cheaper.
1742709
Sounds like this saw may be just what you need. It's very simple to operate and the blades don't easily break or come loose. It has more than adequate power for most wood projects. I actually used it mostly on fiberboard but some wood and a little bit of thin sheet metal. It did everything I asked of it except cut a straight cut which all depends on the operator. If this is in your price range I think you'll be quite satisfied with it.
385790
Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today, I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the router you can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth. If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'll find it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power to use the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shims to cut the dimension you desire Martin
42275
The saw works beautifully in the two situations I have: construction and furniture making. On construction projects, I use the Dewalt stops on the stand. I can live with +- 1/16". For furniture work, I'm back at the shop, using a custom made extension table with with stops that don't move. For furniture, I can not have any deviation. That's my solution. In a previous comment, the writer suggested you snug up the stops, and be careful about how much pressure you put on them with your workpiece. I do this out of habit, and it usually produces pretty good results.
336225
Sounds like you need a hand held Porta-Band Saw. If it is something that will get occasional use, I would get one from Harbor Fright for $83. or spend $200+ for a better model if used often. Try Craigslist for tools as well DEWALT DWM120K 10 Amp 5-Inch Deep Cut Portable Band Saw Kit
529294
most 14" bandsaws use interchangable parts............my previous 14" saw was made in Tiawan........it worked fine on it. The Rigid saws I have seen look similar in mechanism....it is my belief that it probably will work, but I cannot guarantee unless I see your saw in person..........this is a great addition to help tension the blade............much easier. I suggest you also get a new spring for it while you do this ..........especially if your saw has some age on it........good luck!
1531299
I think you are limited to the 1/4" collet. Then again, it is a "compact" router so you don't want to use this great tool for heavy duty routing anyway (larger bits than 1/4"; and big jobs with harder woods). Check it out here: http://www.dewalt.com/tools/woodworking-routers-dwp611pk.aspx