Can his deliver a fine, smooth cut on plywood? Is there a way to use it with a straight edge as a guide to keep the cut perfectly straight?
1274327
This would not be my tool of choice for making the type of cut you describe, although, in an emergency you might be able to rig something up that would be servicable. A circular saw would definitely be preferable especially in terms of smoothness.
1274328
This is not made for long cuts that you can do with other tools. Why wouldn't you use a circular saw, or even better a plunge cut track saw? These can do all the things that circular, track, and jigsaws can't cut due to space limitations but for your use some kind of circular saw would be best.
1274329
Unfortunately, you will not get a smooth cut. It will do a goo job with the half circle saw. You can cut a straight line with a metal straight edge clamped down and running the half circle saw along side. Your speed is important because it will burn the wood if too fast or start smoking from the hot wood. J.D.
1274330
I used a Fein MM to cut out a 3/4" plywood floor I replaced. Cut was quite fine and smooth. I didn't use a straight edge, but I did have to cut along the long side of a bathtub. Using the bathtub itself as a guide was easy so I think any straight edge would be similarly easy.
1274331
yes, i have used it to cut hardwood flooring when installing a floor level threshold to an exising floor. You do have to use a guide for a perfectly straight cut
241220
I've only used it straight. I expect you would have to go slow to preserve a shape over a lot of cuts because the wire is just that- not very rigid!
2181906
The saw is built to make cuts of many angles on wood such cas 2X4's. It will not rip a 2X4. So if by,"Straight " you mean an accurate cross cut,the answer is yes .
934869
Hi Johnathan,I think the best way to do what you want to do is to use a flush cutting bit adjusted to be about the thickness of a sheet of paper away from the plywood for the final pass. Adding a larger base made from masonite or plexiglass could help prevent "dig in" of the bit as you approach the edge. After the last pass with the router, carefully sand the edging flush with the plywood.
1001907
I have not used it on plywood. But I would stay away from plywood in general because the glue and the many layers of plywood would be very hard on the blade. I would imagine even a little dangerous. Since the blade could get stuck in it , sending wood chips flying all over. But I don't see why it shouldn't work providing you want to risk what I mentioned above.
1166305
Sir, in my humble opinion there is no blade anywhere close to the blade I have. I do make a lot with plain plywood, the same blade has inadvertently been used to cut a few nails and it still cuts quietly and sandpaper smooth. I have probably cut 20,000 feet of assorted materials hardwoods (even some Yarrow)and use it each day. All I have done is clean it three times. Hope this helps you. Boyd Jackson 71 yo woodbutcher frm Tx
1747137
I used it on a 1/2" thick MDO plywood. By the end of the cut, the friction heat build up was considerable. I think the problem would get worse if the material was thicker or harder. I would estimate for soft woods, up to 1" thick is the limit. Be sure to reverse the work piece and start from the other side when about half way through in order to get a clean cut on the reverse side. I initially used a Makita battery powered drill and I think it was too much for the drill. It went much easier with a heavy duty corded drill.
385792
Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today,I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the routeryou can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth.If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'llfind it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power touse the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shimsto cut the dimension you desireMartin Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today,I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the routeryou can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth.If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'llfind it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power touse the dado set as... » Read More Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today,I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the routeryou can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth.If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'llfind it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power touse the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shimsto cut the dimension you desireMartin « Show Less
664226
I have found the straight edge to be a great tool when it is secure to the wood being cut. However, the straight edge needs some support or you are trying to balace the additional length of the straight edge during your cut. If your work surface is sufficient, in my experience this is not a problem. Overall, the instrument is light weight and very useful for its intended purpose.
1635931
I would if it would be appropriate. The cut is very fine and the edges are smooth. However, this is a free hand saw and not a guided miter saw, so the angles are not precise.Woody
1413528
You will get the best cut with the laminate side up, not the foam side. The cut should be clean. Once you set the blade against the laminate, push the handle down quickly so it "snaps" the laminate. Be sure to set the blade against the wood before snapping it down. The blade shouldn't have to be sharpened and if my suggestions don't work, then I think your cutter could be defective.
905191
As with any saw it is dependent on the blade used. Cutting the right side is always a plus. Running a straight edge will allow straight cuts.
180376
Mine does not cut straight because the paper guides are not on straight. I had no luck resolving the matter with the company. So I only use it to cut things that aren't that important to get absolutely straight.
1681015
Everything about this saw is built well including the blade guard. For controlled cuts this well built guard can get in the way and you note lifting it at the start of the cut helps. What I do for cuts against a guide rail is use a small piece of wire to hod the guard in the open when making these critical cuts. I know this is not the safest way but it gives me more control. Recently I used this technique on a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" maple plywood and was able to go directly from this saw to assembly with no cleanup much safer than using a table saw.
18816
I expect it depends on the material being cut. The plywood and thin material I have used, it splinters. It cuts a straight line but does not cut as I expected it to do as the ad depicted.
486991
Another thing to remember is that it "snaps" the material, when the blade presses down. There is no sawing motion as such, just simple pressure force on the blade. Be sure to draw your cut lines clearly so you can see them, and perhaps even pre-cut using a straight edge and carpet knife or other tool proper to the material. It works wonders, and if someone is putting in flooring it is a dream to use. It is easiest to use by "standing" on the material, but it will also work cutting board style as well on a table.
1456067
I used it to cut through a 1/2 plywood sheet and had to give the hole saw a break half way between. Of course oak is harder so you might want to rest it more. Even though it takes time (maybe 20 minutes for one hole) it gives you a perfect circle instead of using a jig saw and having uneven edges. Best of luck!