How does the yellow compound compare to white jewelers rouge or green compound? New to sharpening and would appreciate anyone's thoughts.
812575
Check this out, there is no better guide. Go to page 7 if you are in a hurry, but you could benefit from reading it all. Here: http://www.arbortechusa.com/upload/pages/pchsupport/how-to-sharpen-a-power-chisel.pdf BUT, I've heard that different polish/honing compound makers use different colors. I've heard this only from long time users (older men) who may be remembering a time before standardization OR be using a small scale/specialist compound makers products.
1082660
The blade is made of carbon steel - not stainless steel. Carbon steel is generally easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. The down side is that it requires one more step to finish after usage. You will need to wipe a thin application of either mineral oil or vegetable oil on it to prevent rusting. For me the trade off is worth it as I prefer carbon steel. You can renew that blade to near original look by polishing it with a very fine grade of sandpaper or emery cloth. Even a scotch brite pad will go a long way to brighten the blade. You still finish with mineral oil. Good luck, they are fine blade of the "old school" of manufacture at a reasonable price. The blade is made of carbon steel - not stainless steel. Carbon steel is generally easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. The down side is that it requires one more step to finish after usage. You will need to wipe a thin application of either mineral oil or vegetable oil on it to prevent rusting. For me the trade off is worth it as I prefer carbon steel. You can renew that blade to near original look by polishing it with a very fine grade of sandpaper or emery cloth. Even a scotch brite pad will go a long way to brighten the blade. You still finish with mineral oil. Good luck,... » Read More The blade is made of carbon steel - not stainless steel. Carbon steel is generally easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. The down side is that it requires one more step to finish after usage. You will need to wipe a thin application of either mineral oil or vegetable oil on it to prevent rusting. For me the trade off is worth it as I prefer carbon steel. You can renew that blade to near original look by polishing it with a very fine grade of sandpaper or emery cloth. Even a scotch brite pad will go a long way to brighten the blade. You still finish with mineral oil. Good luck, they are fine blade of the "old school" of manufacture at a reasonable price. « Show Less
1025451
Seki City Japan. Using VG-10 steel, FRN handle scales. It's a good quality knife and I did a lot of research before buying it, but at the end I bought it mostly because I loved how it looked. If it were me, I would buy an Ontario Rat Model 2. It looks more simple, but the craftsmanship is way better, zero blade play and built like a rock. And it is half the price. Also look at the Benchmade Mini Griptilian.
792227
The box and stone I received have no indication of the actual grit, so I'm a little surprised Babson had this information available in his response. Also, the gray is clearly coarser than the orange side, so start gray and finish orange. I have obtained better results with honing oil than just water and my knives are are all now easily sharp enough for every kitchen need.
1175003
I use a 3 stone kit. I usually only use the medium and fine stones. I have been disappointed with my knife, it came dull, and the edge had been burned by the grinder. I sent it back thinking they would replace the blade, it came back still dull and grinder burned out near the the this time. My nephew bought one like mine and his has been awesome, maybe I just got a lemon.
881203
See: http://morethanjustsurviving.com/sharpening-stainless-steel/Then you figure out for yourself which method to use. Oilstones have not worked well for me but the diamond method sounds the most interesting to me.
1752466
I first used a whetstone,didn't work very well. Then I tried a premise sharpener. Also didn't work well. Since the metal is so thick and heavy, several folds, I tried a grinder. Worked like a charm!!
510247
The Schf10 is made of 1095 high carbon steel so its edge will last longer due to the hardness. So yes I would rather make a few passes on a diamond sharpener as oppossed to dozens of passes on an oil stone. Both work. I like to finsh up the edge with oil stones. I've only had my DMT for a few months but it still takes off metal quikly. I imagine they will last a few years with moderate use.
1400556
I find that different materials have their own special plus and minus. that being said the swiss army by victorinox is stainless steel. it retains a fine edge. I can get mine about as sharp as a shaving razor using my lansky's sticks and a few strops of a leather belt. it doesn't stain as carbon steel blades. I do like carbon steel blades better. I can get them a little sharper than stainless. the reason I like carbon steel blades is the fact that you can strike a fire better, they throw more sparks and touchups on the blade are a little easier. for a very good pocket knife I always pick swiss army by victorinox. I have had three of them over the past 25 years with no problems. one time I broke the reamer on the back of the knife,and sent it in to have it fix, they sent me back a new knife at no charge and that's after I had used the first one for 10 years! can't say enough about the quality of their products and the service they provide. if you practice on sharping your knife according to the instructions on the lansky's sharping system this knife with the stainless steel blades will never fail you.
1570956
All of my documentation said Germany. I'm more than a year out now and I still love them. I just cut up two pounds of red and yellow peppers with the 10" Chef last night! I did get a good diamond fine sharpening block to "brush up" the edge now and then. They all hold an edge very well but I was noticing a little bit of decay on things like very ripe tomatoes. A dozen quick swipes through the fine diamond sharpener and I'm back to like new for several sessions of use. Good luck!
1239246
It actually sharpens very well, and quickly! 8Cr13MoV is a high-grade stainless steel that is slightly softer than, say, AUS-8 (itss most comparative steel, some say). With a good diamond sharpener, I've found that the blade sharpens fast, and stays sharp under normal/moderately extreme use, from breaking down cardboard boxes to carving sandstone (though highly possible, the latter use is not a good use for any knife). Try the Smith's PocketPal sharpener or one of Kershaw's sharpeners. Hope that helps!
536702
I use norton waterstones going from 1000->4000->8000g It takes a while to get the touch down though if you aren't used to sharpening blades (I am a woodworker.) If the nicks are deep you might be better off sending it out to be sharpened. Stainless is a difficult metal to really put a hone on in the first place so the 1000g is necessary to remove significant metal. The 4000g basically tunes the edge you generate with the 1000g and the 8000 removes burrs and puts on a polish. Once done, I will touch up occasionally on the 8k, every so often hitting it with the 4k first.
1088067
A stone is best but I've found that dexter makes a diamond steel that sharpens exceptionally well. Just make sure you use a light touch and hold at the 11.5 degree angle roughly.
2047346
Get a good quality set of stones of different grit. I have not sharpened mine yet but have an assortment of different blades. I use either a 4 stone Arkansas kit and depending on knife and material, you can get one of these Woodstock SteeleX D1130 1000 Grit and 6000 Grit Japanese Waterstone
1366029
Ma'am, I'm so glad you asked... I just got off the phone from those fine folks at WorkSharpTools... They, like their products, are incredible. I never hesitate to call, when I have questions. They're polite, patient, and thoroughly professional... To answer your question, they have a special diamond belt kit for the Ken Onion Edition. It includes two belts, a 180 grit, and a 1500 grit. These are what they recommend for sharpening ceramic blades. These belts are available here, at Amazon.com, with part #0002970, and have a price of $25.99... I could not be happier with my gear from WorkSharpTools, as they have exceeded my every expectation. Quality, efficiency, and adaptability, these devices do it all... I heartily recommend their Tool Grinding Attachment, #WSSAK081111, and their Belt Grinding Attachment, #WSSSAK0881112. Additionally, the belts that all of the Ken Onion Edition Knife and Tool Sharpener and Attachments use, are professional grade... You won't find better, even at twice the price... Hope I've answered your question... God Bless You and Yours...
853908
I own three 1095cv Beckers including the BK 14. They sharpen really easily. D2 is known to be more difficult to put an edge on it (once it's on, it's there for a while). If you have to maintain your knife in the field 1095cv is the better (and cheaper) option. Wet, damp conditions will give the D2 the advantage (and less maintenance-based on other D2 knives I have owned)
1399493
My understanding is O1 is slightly better and the change was a factory decision. I may be wrong about it but either one is good, outstanding even. I have the Laredo in what I believe is SK5 and a Natchez in O1 and have sharpened both, neither seemed better at sharpeneing or edge retention or wear. Both of mine are shaving sharp and yes I have used them outdoors with no problems just be sensable and don't start whacking on the handles. Both blade steels I highly recommended. The only steel (layered) that I know to be better is the San Mai but the price increase is substantial. I hope this helps you. My understanding is O1 is slightly better and the change was a factory decision. I may be wrong about it but either one is good, outstanding even. I have the Laredo in what I believe is SK5 and a Natchez in O1 and have sharpened both, neither seemed better at sharpeneing or edge retention or wear. Both of mine are shaving sharp and yes I have used them outdoors with no problems just be sensable and don't start whacking on the handles. Both blade steels I highly recommended. The only steel (layered) that I know to be better is the San Mai but the price increase is substantial. I hope this... » Read More My understanding is O1 is slightly better and the change was a factory decision. I may be wrong about it but either one is good, outstanding even. I have the Laredo in what I believe is SK5 and a Natchez in O1 and have sharpened both, neither seemed better at sharpeneing or edge retention or wear. Both of mine are shaving sharp and yes I have used them outdoors with no problems just be sensable and don't start whacking on the handles. Both blade steels I highly recommended. The only steel (layered) that I know to be better is the San Mai but the price increase is substantial. I hope this helps you. « Show Less