Will it fill gaps if the items you are gluing aren't exactly flat?
810585
Yes. The name "goop" adequately describes the stuff as it comes out of the tube. When cured (24 hr.) it's like tire rubber, so it's actually better than most glues for uneven surfaces.
810586
This glue is strong if you are gluing one piece on top of another but I would use a differnent type of glue to fill gaps, like construction glue in a tube. What is it you are trying to glue?
810587
not sure I understand the question. Will I fill the gap, yes but it will shrink so it will not stay level between. If you put extra it might be higher than the materials you are glueing and less will leave a valley.
810588
In my experience, yes. You may want to apply it to the uneven surface first, allow it a minute or three to get tacky then adhere the other piece/item. Just be aware, if you get overflow around the edges, clean it off before it fully dries. Once dried, it's a real beast to remove. I like to go back after about 30 minutes and take a toothpick, XActo, or other pointy object to clean up any excess that seeped over the edges of the item you are gluing. I am working with jewelery so any goobers that seep out are pretty glaring. Hope this helps. Any other questions, just yell. I use this stuff every darn day and have learned a lot through trial and error. In my experience, yes. You may want to apply it to the uneven surface first, allow it a minute or three to get tacky then adhere the other piece/item. Just be aware, if you get overflow around the edges, clean it off before it fully dries. Once dried, it's a real beast to remove. I like to go back after about 30 minutes and take a toothpick, XActo, or other pointy object to clean up any excess that seeped over the edges of the item you are gluing. I am working with jewelery so any goobers that seep out are pretty glaring. Hope this helps. Any other questions, just yell. I use this... » Read More In my experience, yes. You may want to apply it to the uneven surface first, allow it a minute or three to get tacky then adhere the other piece/item. Just be aware, if you get overflow around the edges, clean it off before it fully dries. Once dried, it's a real beast to remove. I like to go back after about 30 minutes and take a toothpick, XActo, or other pointy object to clean up any excess that seeped over the edges of the item you are gluing. I am working with jewelery so any goobers that seep out are pretty glaring. Hope this helps. Any other questions, just yell. I use this stuff every darn day and have learned a lot through trial and error. « Show Less
138356
I tried filling it just short of the top allowing for expansion. However it still creates the split line. Dont think it is avoidable.
1229785
I haven't tried that but I bet you could glue it because it's as thin as heavy paper. You might need to set it beneath weights for a while before you tried the gluing because it comes rolled tightly. Weighting down the glued surface afterwards would probably be useful too.
593989
the gluing area should be free of paint, oil or dirt and then glue. if you are going to prime , remember white primer for light colors and grey primer for darker colors
1614940
frankly I didn't use it to do so, but its depend on the higth . I may say yes for small blob . But what are you going to use for joining edges is the main.
154608
Great question. I suppose if the corner you were trying to make was not much deeper than an inch. Unless it was really thick.
2127183
If the surface is flat, they will look nice. They snap together nicely. But if your surface is very uneven they won't work so well.
1150856
You could leave one of the two halves of the green tabletop off... That would create a gap. Otherwise, no. The two boards are pretty much flush.
2134312
My best suggestion will be a hot glue gun. Since its thick enough to fill in all the air gaps in between plus it's removable when it's dry, you can just peel the glue off. Good luck!
965560
No, when the mesh is zipped closed there is no gap at all. Now there's little gaps in the mesh were there could get a claw through. I like the a lot.
483124
There should be no gap - there was none when I installed it. Either something is not lined up right or you have a narrower than normal door.
716001
It will be too loose. I had to shore up the sides with filler. Not too easy to do.
296351
You could. I did the same thing. I think the product says it's only recommended for 1/2 inch gaps. If you pour it thick to cover 1.5 inches it will just be soft for a long time before it cures but it's better than nothing!
1549613
Sorry, I won't attempt to answer this as I have not yet had the challenge to work with anything irregular......But optimistic as I am, I guess you can, depending on the size of the piece you are working with....
615121
Yeah I'm sure it will be fine. It's custom, so just be sure when making the mold to get a good impression of the gap.
177158
The transparency of this product when it's dry has mostly to do with the thickness of the application. If it's smeared on a surface thin, it's pretty clear, or at least it looks that way. But it's actually slightly opaque so the thicker it gets the whiter it appears. In other words, a thick bead, like the thickness of your finger, might appear to be almost white. It's a great gap filler, so I've used it to fill 1" wide gaps that are 1/4" deep... it looks white when you do that. I've also used it to glue together pieces of unfinished wood, and smeared any excess on the surface... it's clear in those cases. Make sense?
2018883
I'm not sure if you are wrapping the rebar, or what, but it should do it, no problem. You might be able to do it with one (double) package. It depends on how thick you are going with it. Just make sure you really mix the two putties together (a and b) really well so they are unified before you apply it.