I'm going to place this in an enclosure that held a projection tv and will now be the stand for my flat screen. This is 66 inches wide and the wall enclosure is just 90 inches wide. Do the "sliding" doors slide inward vs. outward? I'm afraid I won't be able to "slide" open the doors outward or they'd hit a wall before fully opening and therefore not allow access to components within. Also, my older Bose 601 speakers are black...really black. This unit doesn't look real black in the photos? I'm going to place this in an enclosure that held a projection tv and will now be the stand for my flat screen. This is 66 inches wide and the wall enclosure is just 90 inches wide. Do the... » Read More I'm going to place this in an enclosure that held a projection tv and will now be the stand for my flat screen. This is 66 inches wide and the wall enclosure is just 90 inches wide. Do the "sliding" doors slide inward vs. outward? I'm afraid I won't be able to "slide" open the doors outward or they'd hit a wall before fully opening and therefore not allow access to components within. Also, my older Bose 601 speakers are black...really black. This unit doesn't look real black in the photos? « Show Less
791497
The doors only slide inwards, towards the opening in the center. Thus only one door can be fully opened at a time - which is a bit of a hassle sometimes. And it's pretty much black, maybe not totally, but it goes fine with my black equipment.
791498
To answer your question, the doors slide inward. As for the color it's really really dark and looks good with of my black components and speakers. If you are looking for an entertainment stand with sharp clean lines I fully recommend it.
791499
The sliding doors can slide all the way across. In the picture, door 1 is on the left but it can also slide to the middle position. Door 2, which is pictured on the right can also slide to the middle position. The doors share a sliding track. The unit is fairly dark, but you can tell it's not truly black but actually dark brown.
791500
i have similar setup, the doors slide inward. the color is not black, but almost. i can't tell the difference between the tv edges and the stand, which is real black unless i look close
686101
Both doors slide inward, so no spacial issues. All my Devices are black and look awesome. Get it, you'll be happy.
791501
The doors slide inward so there will not be a problem accessing your equipment. If you are looking for a black entertainment center, then I would not purchase this unit. It is much more close to a walnut (dark brown) finish than black.
791502
Hey David, doors fold inward so don't worry about them hitting the wall. Also, it's not black but rather a really sexy dark brown. Have been extremely happy with mine... used to have my 65" Panny w/stand on it and looked great. Now have Panny hanging on wall so unit is super clean looking and has a nice amount of storage for all my gear. Hope that helps.
988492
I don't understand the situation. Since the viewer case/housing is 4 1/2 inches wide, you would need at least that width space to place it.
531841
I never had a viewer in the door that I put it in, we just us a wood bit for the size of the viewer. therefore I can't really answer that question.
614429
I bought a set of Sanus stands at Best Buy. Although the reflex ports are somewhat blocked by the position of the speakers, this hasn't been a real problem. I also mounted the speakers with the curved rod facing opposite the way the manufacturer intended, primarily because the bottom of the speakers rested on the rod when the curve goes the way it's intended. Because of where I have the speakers (relatively hidden by furniture) it doesn't matter. It all boils down to how you want the speakers to fit into your own theater space, I guess.
1516020
The OD of the case that would fit into the wall measures 14 5/16. The OD of the door frame measures 14 9/16.; These are the measurements that I just took off ours. I flush mounted ours on the wall in our closet. If you are trying the fit the frame into the wall it would fit, but not the door. It would probably be best to have a bit of a reveal of the case for the hinges to work best. Hope this helps.
406169
I looked in my documentation and was only able to find the dimension for the depth (2.2"). I must have either waited until I received the amp or called eletroline tech support to get the footprint dimensions.However, I installed it in a 9"x9"x3" enclosure which worked perfectly. Without going outside and getting into the enclosure (it is very cold and snowy outside right now), I could guess that it measures ~ 6"W x 4"H. The enclosure I chose was a GC-11CTEGYS 9"x9"x3" for $10.95 from HomeTech Solutions (hometech.com). It cost almost as much to ship the enclosure. I ended up paying about $20 for it overall. I am so pleased with this amp, I know you will be too! I looked in my documentation and was only able to find the dimension for the depth (2.2"). I must have either waited until I received the amp or called eletroline tech support to get the footprint dimensions.However, I installed it in a 9"x9"x3" enclosure which worked perfectly. Without going outside and getting into the enclosure (it is very cold and snowy outside right now), I could guess that it measures ~ 6"W x 4"H. The enclosure I chose was a GC-11CTEGYS 9"x9"x3" for $10.95 from HomeTech Solutions (hometech.com). It cost almost as much... » Read More I looked in my documentation and was only able to find the dimension for the depth (2.2"). I must have either waited until I received the amp or called eletroline tech support to get the footprint dimensions.However, I installed it in a 9"x9"x3" enclosure which worked perfectly. Without going outside and getting into the enclosure (it is very cold and snowy outside right now), I could guess that it measures ~ 6"W x 4"H. The enclosure I chose was a GC-11CTEGYS 9"x9"x3" for $10.95 from HomeTech Solutions (hometech.com). It cost almost as much to ship the enclosure. I ended up paying about $20 for it overall. I am so pleased with this amp, I know you will be too! « Show Less
1476431
To the extent that the unit is about 6" in depth, it does "jut" out from its plastic frame on both sides by about 3" each side. There is a slider that accommodates the width of the window space in which you would like to place the unit. The entire unit fits into the frame of your window. It is ideal for vertically sliding windows. Just slide the window open, place the unit inside, and slide the window pane in place gripping the top of the fan's frame. The unit also fits in horizontally sliding windows--in this case width becomes height. Very versatile and user-friendly fan. Quality for the price.
2122741
It is hard for me to answer this other than the actual dimensions of the unit. I have a fireplace hearth on one side which preventsit from being pushed all the way to the back. I am sure if you have a normal corner for it there would be little wasted space.Lookingat the measurements 33"front-46"center-19" sides (along wall) 20"deep-19"back.If you measure along the side to the back to forman angle for both side to meet it is another 10" to the center only. It seems the wasted space would be minimal, just enough for power cords and speaker wires. All I can say is we are happy with this unit, the fold down construction makes it a snap to assemble, it is most attractive, and functional. Hope this is helpful. It is hard for me to answer this other than the actual dimensions of the unit. I have a fireplace hearth on one side which preventsit from being pushed all the way to the back. I am sure if you have a normal corner for it there would be little wasted space.Lookingat the measurements 33"front-46"center-19" sides (along wall) 20"deep-19"back.If you measure along the side to the back to forman angle for both side to meet it is another 10" to the center only. It seems the wasted space would be minimal, just enough for power cords and speaker... » Read More It is hard for me to answer this other than the actual dimensions of the unit. I have a fireplace hearth on one side which preventsit from being pushed all the way to the back. I am sure if you have a normal corner for it there would be little wasted space.Lookingat the measurements 33"front-46"center-19" sides (along wall) 20"deep-19"back.If you measure along the side to the back to forman angle for both side to meet it is another 10" to the center only. It seems the wasted space would be minimal, just enough for power cords and speaker wires. All I can say is we are happy with this unit, the fold down construction makes it a snap to assemble, it is most attractive, and functional. Hope this is helpful. « Show Less
1867211
The far left and far right sections have a sliding back cover (I don't use them because my components extend a bit out the back of the cabinet). There is an upper and lower section to the center section (The lower section is open backed and the upper section [for the center channel speaker] has a closed back). NOTE: There is a 4" high partition running the entire length of the back - it has grooves in it for the sliding backs for the left and right compartments). If you have components deeper than the cabinet, you'll have to build shelves to bring the just above the 4" high partition. Hope this helps. The far left and far right sections have a sliding back cover (I don't use them because my components extend a bit out the back of the cabinet). There is an upper and lower section to the center section (The lower section is open backed and the upper section [for the center channel speaker] has a closed back). NOTE: There is a 4" high partition running the entire length of the back - it has grooves in it for the sliding backs for the left and right compartments). If you have components deeper than the cabinet, you'll have to build shelves to bring the just above the 4" high... » Read More The far left and far right sections have a sliding back cover (I don't use them because my components extend a bit out the back of the cabinet). There is an upper and lower section to the center section (The lower section is open backed and the upper section [for the center channel speaker] has a closed back). NOTE: There is a 4" high partition running the entire length of the back - it has grooves in it for the sliding backs for the left and right compartments). If you have components deeper than the cabinet, you'll have to build shelves to bring the just above the 4" high partition. Hope this helps. « Show Less
256689
If you are saying that the TV is on the wall, inside the bed, and you want to push the TV and mount against the wall when you are closing the bed up and will it stay collapsed?, then yes. Just remember the mount sticks out a minimum of 5" away from the wall without any tilt, then add the thickness of your screen then you would be able to figure if you have enough room. If you are talking about the mount being on the outside of the bed, like it would be under the bed when you pull it down, then NO, it would not stay collapsed. You could make a way to cover it or strap it so it would not open but it will not lock to the wall. Hope this helped! :) By the way, I LOVE this wall mount! If you are saying that the TV is on the wall, inside the bed, and you want to push the TV and mount against the wall when you are closing the bed up and will it stay collapsed?, then yes. Just remember the mount sticks out a minimum of 5" away from the wall without any tilt, then add the thickness of your screen then you would be able to figure if you have enough room. If you are talking about the mount being on the outside of the bed, like it would be under the bed when you pull it down, then NO, it would not stay collapsed. You could make a way to cover it or strap it so it would not... » Read More If you are saying that the TV is on the wall, inside the bed, and you want to push the TV and mount against the wall when you are closing the bed up and will it stay collapsed?, then yes. Just remember the mount sticks out a minimum of 5" away from the wall without any tilt, then add the thickness of your screen then you would be able to figure if you have enough room. If you are talking about the mount being on the outside of the bed, like it would be under the bed when you pull it down, then NO, it would not stay collapsed. You could make a way to cover it or strap it so it would not open but it will not lock to the wall. Hope this helped! :) By the way, I LOVE this wall mount! « Show Less
250184
my door is 35 1/2 wide and it BARELY fit. i also hade ti buy small half inch nails to tack it along the sides - the velcro and 'tacks' they include are useless. I have a 8 ft door height and i had to add a foot wide pice of wood at the top and still had to add 4 inches of material at the bottom (i just saftypinned it on) i then painted the wood to the same color as my apt blding and you cant even tell the difference - its a GREAT screen i love it it works great it puts that magic mest to shame!!(i went thru TWO of those)
842901
I'm using mine for Energy C100 rear surrounds with almost identical dimensions. There is a ton of extra adjustment width available >>1". My speakers are 2lb heavier than yours and the mounts feel like they could hold something double the weight. The speaker sits directly over the pivot point and the T part of the bracket is heavy gauge welded steel. Even with the adjustment nut at the bottom completely loose the speakers aren't going anywhere.One nice thing about these too is that even with a 9" deep speaker I can clamp on the very front of the base. There's enough depth to the mounting area that even with them swiveled at 45 degrees I still have another inch to the wall. I'm using mine for Energy C100 rear surrounds with almost identical dimensions. There is a ton of extra adjustment width available >>1". My speakers are 2lb heavier than yours and the mounts feel like they could hold something double the weight. The speaker sits directly over the pivot point and the T part of the bracket is heavy gauge welded steel. Even with the adjustment nut at the bottom completely loose the speakers aren't going anywhere.One nice thing about these too is that even with a 9" deep speaker I can clamp on the very front of the base. There's enough... » Read More I'm using mine for Energy C100 rear surrounds with almost identical dimensions. There is a ton of extra adjustment width available >>1". My speakers are 2lb heavier than yours and the mounts feel like they could hold something double the weight. The speaker sits directly over the pivot point and the T part of the bracket is heavy gauge welded steel. Even with the adjustment nut at the bottom completely loose the speakers aren't going anywhere.One nice thing about these too is that even with a 9" deep speaker I can clamp on the very front of the base. There's enough depth to the mounting area that even with them swiveled at 45 degrees I still have another inch to the wall. « Show Less
114933
If the receiver is installed on the first shelf, there is no problem because the width is 26.5 inch. For the other four shelves, the situation changes. Depth is 19.5 inch. But this, is divided into two. In the first 5 inches deep from the front, the width is only 18.5 inches. The other side of depth(14.5 inch), can to install a receiver of 26.5 inches width, but not deeply of 14.5 inches, if the wire connection is NOT type banana. If the connection is type banana, the depth of 14.5 lower about at 12 inches. PS: On the shelf two, I installed the center channel KEF Q600c what is: W=24.8 & D=11.9inc. Good Luck! If the receiver is installed on the first shelf, there is no problem because the width is 26.5 inch. For the other four shelves, the situation changes. Depth is 19.5 inch. But this, is divided into two. In the first 5 inches deep from the front, the width is only 18.5 inches. The other side of depth(14.5 inch), can to install a receiver of 26.5 inches width, but not deeply of 14.5 inches, if the wire connection is NOT type banana. If the connection is type banana, the depth of 14.5 lower about at 12 inches. PS: On the shelf two, I installed the center channel KEF Q600c what is: W=24.8 &... » Read More If the receiver is installed on the first shelf, there is no problem because the width is 26.5 inch. For the other four shelves, the situation changes. Depth is 19.5 inch. But this, is divided into two. In the first 5 inches deep from the front, the width is only 18.5 inches. The other side of depth(14.5 inch), can to install a receiver of 26.5 inches width, but not deeply of 14.5 inches, if the wire connection is NOT type banana. If the connection is type banana, the depth of 14.5 lower about at 12 inches. PS: On the shelf two, I installed the center channel KEF Q600c what is: W=24.8 & D=11.9inc. Good Luck! « Show Less
1045117
Depends how big the box is. I have a speaker with 6.5" x 7.5" foot print that fits diagonally with room to spare. The shelf is a 12" radius quarter circle, so anything that fits in that area should be OK so long as it doesn't weigh an abnormal amount for something that size. There will be those two mounts poking over the top that could interfere with something that sits flush on the shelf. Use good drywall anchors from the hardware store if you don't get lucky and have a stud there, and put the mounts further out than the directions say (9 to 10 inches from the corner instead of half way) to better support the center of gravity of the load on the shelf. Depends how big the box is. I have a speaker with 6.5" x 7.5" foot print that fits diagonally with room to spare. The shelf is a 12" radius quarter circle, so anything that fits in that area should be OK so long as it doesn't weigh an abnormal amount for something that size. There will be those two mounts poking over the top that could interfere with something that sits flush on the shelf. Use good drywall anchors from the hardware store if you don't get lucky and have a stud there, and put the mounts further out than the directions say (9 to 10 inches from the corner instead... » Read More Depends how big the box is. I have a speaker with 6.5" x 7.5" foot print that fits diagonally with room to spare. The shelf is a 12" radius quarter circle, so anything that fits in that area should be OK so long as it doesn't weigh an abnormal amount for something that size. There will be those two mounts poking over the top that could interfere with something that sits flush on the shelf. Use good drywall anchors from the hardware store if you don't get lucky and have a stud there, and put the mounts further out than the directions say (9 to 10 inches from the corner instead of half way) to better support the center of gravity of the load on the shelf. « Show Less
963526
Ours is in a cabinet and on an older flat screen. The base of the stand is what you need to measure. However, it is a matter of inches. 3 1/2 is about the distance to the back of the wall. However, for air space you should have about 4 to 6 inches. You don't want the back of the TV up against the wall because of the heat from the TV. Be sure your TV is on a sturdy cabinet or table. The stand is very heavy. I dropped the base on my foot and thought I broke my foot. It is very very heavy.
95779
I'm not sure what you're asking here, but here's a stupid/joking answer: my recommendation is that you be REALLY, REALLY careful in your measurements and casework. I've put in a full extension drawer 36" wide, and I don't know whether it's just coincidence (that I didn't end up being as careful as I sometimes am) or something more, but that drawer has never worked as well as others I've put in. There just seems to be more opportunity for subtle errors that affect the operation. In other words, it works okay, but not as smoothly as other drawers I've but in. If I were re-doing things, or if I were in your situation, I'd likely go for two smaller drawers (it would be awfully easy to overload a 42x20 (almost 6 sq feet footprint) drawer! But, if you've got to go with the drawer opening you've got, I'd say that the K&V 8400P full extension would be a good slide; I sometimes go with cheap slides in undemanding situations, but with K&V in cases in which there might be more stress/strain.
1657005
The width will fit with maybe a little extra room but as far as the height, you may have an inch of space at the bottom. My back doorway is about 80"/81" tall but we hung it from the very top of the doorframe so it may be just right for your doorway with like I said, a very little space at the bottom which shouldn't pose a problem. The screens have been working great so far, but I would suggest adding a few extra tacks for a stronger more secure hold, it helps prevent the screen from coming detached when foot traffic goes in and out. ( some people can be a tad rough...i.e "Kids") Hope this is helpful! The width will fit with maybe a little extra room but as far as the height, you may have an inch of space at the bottom. My back doorway is about 80"/81" tall but we hung it from the very top of the doorframe so it may be just right for your doorway with like I said, a very little space at the bottom which shouldn't pose a problem. The screens have been working great so far, but I would suggest adding a few extra tacks for a stronger more secure hold, it helps prevent the screen from coming detached when foot traffic goes in and out. ( some people can be a tad rough...i.e... » Read More The width will fit with maybe a little extra room but as far as the height, you may have an inch of space at the bottom. My back doorway is about 80"/81" tall but we hung it from the very top of the doorframe so it may be just right for your doorway with like I said, a very little space at the bottom which shouldn't pose a problem. The screens have been working great so far, but I would suggest adding a few extra tacks for a stronger more secure hold, it helps prevent the screen from coming detached when foot traffic goes in and out. ( some people can be a tad rough...i.e "Kids") Hope this is helpful! « Show Less