What are the required interior wall structural clearances? Are additional clearances required for combustible wall materials? What is the required AWG wire for a 25' run? Required type wire insulation? Is the 4 Square warrenty available & at what cost? What are the required interior wall structural clearances? Are additional clearances required for combustible wall materials? What is the required AWG wire for a 25' run? Required type wire... » Read More What are the required interior wall structural clearances? Are additional clearances required for combustible wall materials? What is the required AWG wire for a 25' run? Required type wire insulation? Is the 4 Square warrenty available & at what cost? « Show Less
667441
Instructions: http://www.broan.com/common/productDigitalAssethandler.ashx?id=87d7eb9b-b652-4ba3-acce-3469a4e27d0a. Wiring: instructions show Amperage; consult your local code and/or current NEC. Warranty: ???
813318
it will fit inside of a 2x4 wall -I have 2x6 and had room behind it,in a small bathroom it only needs one of the 2 heating elements to be safe and run it at full amperage I would use a minimum of #12 wire but I useally upgrade to #10, Bx or Romex will work as it is not required to have high temp wiring. I have used it over a year and really like it, not sure about the warranty for what it costs it may not be worth buying a warranty, overall very pleased with it.
813319
The heater has a pan which is I believe designed to fit between 16" center studs. I used the heater ( because of its measurements were very close) to replace an old heater built into a cement wall. I just used the old pan built in the cement wall and replaced the interior and cover. Wire size for 3000 watts at 240 volt would be minimum 14 gauge but 12 would be better. I didn't purchase any warranty.
79992
no other vent required but has to meet required clearance dimensions from eaves and windows. There is some information in directions but local building code will determine some of this.
2271464
When installed as directed--with all components unaltered--the minimum thickness is 9 inches. However, as other have indicated, you can reduce this further by trimming the metal components of the duct. In fact, if you managed to glue/seal the fan housing directly to the plastic vent cap, the whole assembly requires only 5 inches. So there are a lot of options to put this unit in a thinner wall. If you trim the duct work, just be sure you have means to tape/seal everything once it is in the wall. On the final step, the length of the flexible duct is what enables you to tape/seal all the connections on the exterior side before compressing everything back into the wall. When installed as directed--with all components unaltered--the minimum thickness is 9 inches. However, as other have indicated, you can reduce this further by trimming the metal components of the duct. In fact, if you managed to glue/seal the fan housing directly to the plastic vent cap, the whole assembly requires only 5 inches. So there are a lot of options to put this unit in a thinner wall. If you trim the duct work, just be sure you have means to tape/seal everything once it is in the wall. On the final step, the length of the flexible duct is what enables you to tape/seal all the... » Read More When installed as directed--with all components unaltered--the minimum thickness is 9 inches. However, as other have indicated, you can reduce this further by trimming the metal components of the duct. In fact, if you managed to glue/seal the fan housing directly to the plastic vent cap, the whole assembly requires only 5 inches. So there are a lot of options to put this unit in a thinner wall. If you trim the duct work, just be sure you have means to tape/seal everything once it is in the wall. On the final step, the length of the flexible duct is what enables you to tape/seal all the connections on the exterior side before compressing everything back into the wall. « Show Less
1114174
Length of extension and ga of wire dictate actuall amps that should be safely carried through wire. This is for a 50A circuit but continuous used should not exceed 40A with a peak of 50A but I am not sure at what % duty cycle. Note, any rated electrical cord is rated @ 100% duty cycle under UL. ie. air conditioner could have a FLA compressive load of 50A an running amps of 15A @ 240VDC and the 40A rating of this cord would be safe in my opinion
237082
I doubt it, it is not shielded and nor is it specifically fire rated. But it's also not carrying any current so personally I think it's a grey area but if you are concerned about potential fire then get something CL3 Rated for In-wall Installation.
582629
We had an old house with a previous similar through-the-wall fan (inside faceplate, no range hood). The stud wall had lathe-and plaster inside (replaced with new plasterboard) and original wood siding and rock-hard cement stucco outside. The old metal sleeve was slightly distorted, and the old fan also had the switch on the fan inside faceplate. There was some assembly and some minor cutting and fitting required,. We used the old wire to pull a new electric supply wire. So, while it was a direct thru-wall replacement for us, it did have some minor installation fit-work -- never unexpected in an old house. I can't picture your "attachment to an existing 8" duct." You will need to fabricate your own adapter and details -- not impossible but custom fit-work. Are you abandoning the inside face-plate and switch? If so, you might look for some other in-line fan-unit. If possible, download the installation manual (for detailed pictures) before ordering -- or inspect one locally. I agree with others: Why adapt this model, when there are others built for your (in-line) purpose?
2029547
First of all, you need to know how far the speakers will be from the amplifier. Then, will the wires be inside your walls? These factors will determine what type and size (thickness) of wire you will need. Longer distances require thicker wire. Wire thickness is called 'gauge'. Bigger numbers, 22 gauge wire, is smaller than 12 gauge wire. Most people can get by with 16 gauge general speaker wire for an average sized room, but audiophiles and wires that need to be concealed behind walls will require wire that is pure copper or wire that has special insulation to protect it. Either way, the only requirement for proper sound reproduction is to make sure the wire you get connects the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals of your amplifier to the terminals of your speakers; positive to positive, negative to negative. Most speaker wires have one wire marked so you can connect amps and speakers in phase. Some wires have a colored stripe on the insulation on one wire and some wires are two different colors (one copper-colored, the other silver). Once you choose the wire, strip about 3/4" of insulation off, depress the terminal button (red or black) on the back of the speaker and insert the wire into the hole that is revealed. Releasing the button locks wire in. I know this is a lot of information but it will make sense when you actually do it.
1538111
I would check out the standards at UL here: http://ul.com/. Amerex is a well respected brand in the fire safety business is all I can tell you.
893803
This unit is recommended to be installed in buildings with 12 to 15 feet high ceilings. Installing it on a 10 foot high ceiling would not be recommended. Further the unit needs the following clearances to combustibles distances : 34in. from ceiling, 30in. from sides of heater, 30in. from back and 68in. from the base.
1206854
Recommended clearances to combustible surfaces (from the manual): 34" top, 30" side, 30" back, 68" below.Keep in mind that while the main heat transfer is by radiation from the front ceramic grill, this is a fired heater, so there will be a good deal of heat rise off the top of the heater. Some method of air circulation above the heater will help, both to avoid 'hot spots' along the ceiling and to get good distribution of all of the heat from the unit.
1675072
This outlet set, I believe, meets UL standards. More importantly, most local and state building codes forbid non Romex type power lines running behind wallboards , ie through the walls. The Arlington box is one of several devices that meet this standard. I used 14 g Romex to connect the outlets with the external line cord. I could then plug it into a surge suppressor for safety. In addition I added 2.5 Carlon tubing (Smurf Tubing) in order to fascilitate feeding the low voltage cables. This is additional fire safety, but more importantly facilitated threading all the cables through the wall and allows removal and replacement in the future. The boxes are well designed, are rugged and tolerate a lot of pulling and tugging. They are recessed and allow the plugs to recess so the TV will mount close to the wall. The plastic/ rubber dampers also allow easy threading of lines while blocking air leaks. This is very important if your walls have outside exposure as through the attic, etc. The building code might make for a violation when getting inspections for mortgages or when selling the home. True a fire would probably be bad if out of compliance.
88105
The UL spec for the wire gauge is 16AWG. We ALWAYS meet or exceed the specification requirement. Anything thinner (such as 18AWG) may NOT meet the UL specifications.
1206183
This model is power vented so you would need to run 3" or 4" flue pipe thru an outside wall. If the pipe runs thru combustible materials it needs to be double wall. The pipe can run horizontal from the unit or vertical but always uphill. If venting in your application cannot be done try a non vented radiant gas heater.
833138
The cable is not shielded, it's rated in/outdoor because of the material that is made to resist high temps, I use this cable to connect floors on my town home, The shielded term refers to the protection against electromagnetic interference produced by power lines, electric motors, fluorescent lights, thermostats, and electrical circuits which are found in just about everything these days. If you are running in wall near a power line you may get EMI or noise on the line. If this is for a regular use line then you should be more than fine with this cable if the run you are trying to get is critical than you should consider shielded but remember that the connector will also need to be shielded in order to take advantage of it.
1980336
As long as you are using it as it is intended. This wire is "audio cable" and is safe to run in walls and attic (It's running in mine). I am not a professional; however I have run a lot of speaker wire in my life and have never had any type of an issue with safety. This particular wire is a heavy gauge and heavily insulated as well.
1653294
This heater requires a minimum clearance of 8' above the floor for public garages in accordance with the ANSI/NFPA No. 88 most recent edition. Commercial buildings have different clearance regulations. Please see page 3 of the owner's manual for detailed clearance requirements and also check your local codes and ordinances for installation requirements in your area prior to installing.
1953564
Well, correct me if I am wrong but AWG is only used to measure bare wire. In this case, the cable has a outer radius of 0.25 inches, that Gauge is approximately close to #2. However, without taking it apart, I can't tell you the individual wires inside the cable.