I'm purchasing a outdoor cedar glider that has not been stained or sealed. Should I use this teak oil before or after sealing?
806077
You're welcome. I honestly don't know how this will work with sealed and unstained cedar, but this is a great product and I hope you'll give Amazon feedback on that use.
1390425
its grade A natural color teak with no oiling or sealing done. You can apply oil or sealant if you like. Thanks
1590951
Yes, you need to maintain the finish with teak oil maybe once a year, otherwise it will "weather" as it should to a light gray patina.
1829312
YES, I rebuilt an oak park bench and treated the oak with Copper Coat, allowed it to completely dry (a week)and applied the oil sealer/ stain. Be aware, the color of the stain will be affected by the green color of the CC. Pre-test!
2213022
It will depend on the finish on your wood. If it is not lacquered or varnished, this oil will still do a good job cleaning but will sit 'on top (i.e. not penetrate the wood's pores. If the wood is not sealed, the oil can penetrate into the wood (which is what it needs and you want to happen) and will lighten back up as it dries and balances on the grain after you have applied it a day or so (depends on temp. and humidity). I have tested unknown wood the first time on the inside of the doors to be safe, but this is an awesome quality product and I find it works best if I apply it to a soft cloth and not directly on my antiques or tables, etc. Good luck! It will depend on the finish on your wood. If it is not lacquered or varnished, this oil will still do a good job cleaning but will sit 'on top (i.e. not penetrate the wood's pores. If the wood is not sealed, the oil can penetrate into the wood (which is what it needs and you want to happen) and will lighten back up as it dries and balances on the grain after you have applied it a day or so (depends on temp. and humidity). I have tested unknown wood the first time on the inside of the doors to be safe, but this is an awesome quality product and I find it works best if I apply it to a soft... » Read More It will depend on the finish on your wood. If it is not lacquered or varnished, this oil will still do a good job cleaning but will sit 'on top (i.e. not penetrate the wood's pores. If the wood is not sealed, the oil can penetrate into the wood (which is what it needs and you want to happen) and will lighten back up as it dries and balances on the grain after you have applied it a day or so (depends on temp. and humidity). I have tested unknown wood the first time on the inside of the doors to be safe, but this is an awesome quality product and I find it works best if I apply it to a soft cloth and not directly on my antiques or tables, etc. Good luck! « Show Less
1545892
I learned a long time ago that it is best to use manufactures oil. I would stay with Robinair oil. This takes guessing out of the equation. Hope this helps.
690745
i use it on my wood stocks and it seems to work just fine. this oil is NOT a solvent. it is a silicone oil for protecting/coating/lubricating.
2251990
I oiled it per the suggestions on amazon. It looked "cured" after oiling. I don't leave it out in the rain though theoretically I can. Low maintenance in my opinion.
1941861
The bottle I got from Amazon is 16oz. After a year with the teak deck furniture I don't recommend any brand of teak oil unless you have a good cover [or roof] to protect the items. Oil soaks in and must be reapplied continually-use marine varnish. Varnish yields a different look but protection from sun and dew is much greater than with oil and the natural teak color holds better too
2216410
You can use a mixture of turpentine and linseed oil, about 50/50. I use it on my outdoor furniture. It is ready to use in a day or two. But you have to repeat every year or every other year. That is the way with anything left outside year round.
1353147
I use AMSOIL bar and chain oil. It does tend to leak out a little if stored with the oil in the saw. It is a great little saw!
1411058
The oil is basically odorless. This oil is thicker than regular cedar oil for outdoor furniture. The first coat absorbs very rapidly. I let it dry overnight before I applied the second coat. The second coat took very little of the oil. I live in SoCal, my garden bed faces west and gets the hot day's sun. It still looks great after a year.
395502
This product is good for your application - wait at least 4 days after the last application before putting bowls into service - this will allow all the solvents to evaporate off. Another option is the Howard butcher block conditioner which does not hold up as well and is intended for use on wooden butcher blocks - there are no solvents in this product with the majority of the carrier being bees wax - its not as water resistant but it is all natural. This product is also avilable on Amazon.
921843
I use Anchorseal 2 on my logs before I put them on the sawmill. Once the lumber is dry and cut into boards, I knock the sealed ends off. I have never had a problem with staining afterwards. I do not stain over top of the sealer. Probably not the answer you wanted but felt it may be helpful to others.
797827
You are putting oil on a porous unfinished wood. I would think, yes. You could always test in a small spot first.
170947
Mine is located on a covered deck, therefore not a lot of exposure to weather. However, I also have a log arbor made from the same white cedar and has been exposed to rain and snow for years and it still looks great. On both items I did apply a high quality red cedar stain. Without stain the cedar will turn gray in color over time (not at all harmful to the wood). Cedar is naturally impervious to rot and insects, so I don't think you need to worry about exposure to weather. The overall quality of the chair is very good... very sturdy and not flimsy at all. I hope this is helpful.
1836645
We did not use a protectant at first but then thought it would be a good idea. We used a Teak Oil which can be used on the eucalyptus wood.