How Often and When is best to be apply? to be try on a magnolia tree and lawn. Thanks in advance
138145
Lawns: Use 3 oz./100 gallons (sprays roughly 1,000 sq. ft.). -Trees: Follow proportioner instructions to achieve the 3 oz./100 gallons mixture. Remember to spray both sides of the leaves. -Flowers: Use 1/4 tsp./gallon or 3 oz./100 gallons.
124316
I would wait to apply on newly planted outside tomatoes until they are established...at least a week or two. For prevention, once every 14 days I believe it says on the bottle, and for treatment once every 7 days.
1605647
I have been successful with this. I applied to suckers over a year ago and they have not come back. It is the only thing that has worked for me. I used it on a flowering pear tree. Now this year I have had new suckers start and again I just applied and they are dead.
297603
I have not had a problem with that. The Bremuda grass is slowly going away after 2 applications. I hope to get 2 or 3 more aplpications in this season, then hit it hard in early spring.
2105638
It really doesn't take a lot. I just do a handful and do a light dusting circle around each plant. I believe you apply once a week or once every two weeks (can't remember since I don't have it in front of me!) I used this bag all through last summer and into this spring before ordering a second one.
2167998
Be careful not to use to much concentrate, it may take a while to work as in a week or 2 but it WILL work, and if you spray too much or too heavy you will kill your good grass too.I found that it worked best used just below the recommended amount and a light spray. It's hard to see the amount you spray so stay on the side of caution.You can always reapply and learn as you I, but it's much worse to have to regroup your yard. Good luck!
1705688
Actually, Larry, I think if you give the roots a good soak 2 or 3 times a season (up to once a month) I think your trees will branch nicely. I have used it on my baby apple tree planted last fall and it is looking fantastic!
1227366
Potted mine too in about 3ft dia pot and it was outside over last summer and took well. I live on coast in VA. But then we had a bad rain storm and I didn't get it drained well enough and think root rot set in. It's been in house all winter and I mist it regularly but not sure it's surviving. If it's still seems viable when whether warms I think I should dig up and put rocks in bottom for drainage (there were holes in pot but I'd set it in a pan in house just after bad rain and didn't realize pan was full as I kept watering....stupid!) anyway, my thumb is green with 'easy' house plants and this poor guy (we named him Larry) has kept me in turmoil. I read it's fine to pot but not sure where I went wrong exactly. Hope this helps and I'd love any advice from anyone else!
913333
I have 10+ acres that I put on selected plants, so I can't say as to what area can be covered. I have used almost the 6 lbs in about several weeks in doing it selectedly. This product is supposed to last longer than other products, there for one is not applying as often. And that seems to be the case so far. Hope this helps you.
1209946
My husband is a trained plant person and says it is best to spray ivy in the spring the first time when the stem and leaves are about seven inches long. Repeat spraying necessary when new green appears in places you have already sprayed.
401397
we used this product for crab grass in CT. we applied when the crab grass started growing so it drinks the chemical when you spray it on . It worked well needed to reapply in some areas.
2283522
Yes. Mix at the rate of 2 fl. oz. (4 Tbs.) per gallon of water and spray foliage to the point of run off. Best time to apply is early in the morning.
944740
I'm in zone 5b, I think, which is the tip of the thumb in Michigan. We've had a harsh winter, but I built a pyramid type greenhouse to enclose my bamboo and protect it from the weather. Because it is in a large planter and it's still cold here, I've got my fingers crossed Bill Clinton Bamboo will be OK this spring!
1561422
spring going into summer is when it took best in my yard. When you 1st apply, make sure you're drenching yard for the next few weeks 3-4 per week. I saw immediate response 1 week in and real lush the weeks to follow.
750072
I'm in Western Massachusetts over in the Berkshires (zone 5b). I have two Hardy Chicago growing in containers that are in their second season. One is in a 15 gallon plastic pot, and the other is in a 14 inch plastic pot. I kept them in a cold part of my basement last winter (lots of folks use garages and sheds so long as they don't get much below freezing) and watered them every few weeks when they got dry. That's probably the most common method in the north. They were about 3 ft tall by the end of last summer, and I brought them in as soon as they lost their leaves in early November. They've leafed out great now and are growing again. I've heard of people growing them outside in our climate, and will probably try that with a cutting from one of mine. There are many ways to handle the winter. Some folks get large bags of mulch to set around the tree and cover with plastic buckets over the mulched tree. Some wrap the tree with insulation and mulch well at the base. Some will bend the tree over and cover it with mulches or even bury the bent tree under soil for the winter. Logee's Greenhouse from Connecticut has a video of how to wrap a fig tree on Youtube, if that helps. There is the chance of losing an in-ground tree to the cold, but so long as the roots survive these fig trees can grow back from them. Also, people often take cuttings once the trees go dormant. They can be kept in the vegetable crisper over the winter and rooted in the spring if something goes terribly wrong with the outdoor tree. So there are lots of ways to do it depending on what kind of tree you want (container or in-ground tree) and how much (or how little) effort you want to put into the project. You can get tons of info on figs4fun forum and on youtube.
1229311
the label (and it may be under the label) is a good start.. however if there is a lot of rain forecast, I use about a cup per 24 in container, 2 on trees less than 4 ft tall and 3 on pines over 8 ft. Also spread it around the drip line on trees /shrubs not in containers.. those in containers spread around the inside of the rim, putting it around the trunks is a waste as the trees/shrubs don't feed there. If you're in a drier climate than the PNW, either water heavily or reduce the amount and consider a second application in 2 weeks. Also consider the soil.. sandy soils will absorb faster and lessen the chance of burning, clay soils or dense loam holds the concentrations longer so some caution in over applying is warranted.
1926666
First you have to wait for it to take effect. (kill the bad area) Then the area needs to be prepared. If it's a small area, it's simple, if it's a whole lawn, it's not so much. And the area of the country you live in will determine timing of things. It's not something that can be answered favorably without more information. I would suggest to contact your local state agriculture extension agency. They are experts in what works in your area. I've followed their advice for years and have excellent results. (I'm in Tennessee) It's a bit of work, but certainly worth it.